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Wild Zebra
Joined: Apr 28, 2005 Posts: 806 Location: Ohio
Audio files: 5
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:10 am Post subject:
The Official Help me with my PSU thread! |
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Howdy all. I finally got a PSU. A power one +-12 or +-15. So I need help getting it all jumpered and set up. Have a few questions about a distribution board also. I know this is a often talked about and touchy subject due to the possibility of injury and death. I know some people will say take it somewhere, but I'll never learn that way. So I thought maybe I could get a little step by step. If youins don't mind. I understand if not. No one wants to feel liable about someone getting hurt. Well here goes...
well to tell you the truth the only thing I understand right know is the first two jumpers on the transformer jumpering 1&3 together and 2&4 together. I dont know where to connect the cord. 1&4 or 1&5 US current is 110 right? So do I use the 120 setting 1&4?
So with that said a few starter questions. How do you typically wire the switch/fuse? regular lampstyle 2 prong/ 3 prong? Socketed 3 prong like a computer cord. What about grounding to chassis? Well I stop there incase the next post is "take it to someone who knows" _________________ "your stripes are killer bro" Last edited by Wild Zebra on Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:39 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Dan Lavin
Joined: Nov 09, 2006 Posts: 649 Location: Spring Lake, Mi, USA
Audio files: 21
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:35 am Post subject:
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Wild Zebra:
No, don't take it to someone, this isn't that bad. Although my lawyer advises me that any screw-ups, etc. are not my fault and you are liable for anything bad, blah blah blah.........
I would suggest a 3-prong AC socket like you have on your PC as the initial input and use a computer power cord. The bottom prong should be wired to the power supply chasis metal. The other two top prongs get wired to terminals 1 and 5, but as you mentioned, I would put the fuse between the prong on the right (as you long at it from where you plug the cord into) and terminal 5. Then connect terminals 1 and 3 then 2 and 4.
There you go. Have fun. |
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fonik
Joined: Jun 07, 2006 Posts: 3950 Location: Germany
Audio files: 23
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:41 am Post subject:
Re: The Official Help me with my PSU thread! |
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Wild Zebra wrote: | well to tell you the truth the only thing I understand right know is the first two jumpers on the transformer jumpering 1&3 together and 2&4 together. I dont know where to connect the cord. 1&4 or 1&5 US current is 110 right? So do I use the 120 setting 1&5? |
use the 120 setting:
jumper for 1&3, 2&4
apply AC to 1 and 4
(as printed on the PSUs chassis or take a look into the documentation linked below)
Quote: | So with that said a few starter questions. How do you typically wire the switch/fuse? regular lampstyle 2 prong/ 3 prong? Socketed 3 prong like a computer cord. What about grounding to chassis? Well I stop there incase the next post is "take it to someone who knows" |
you'll need all three cords from the mains: 2 AC and 1 GND, the GND is connected to the chassis of the PSU near the transformer (see documentation)!
put fuse into one of the ac cords. but maybe someone from the states should jump in here. (i use a mainsconnector unit with build-in fuseholder and switch and filter)
don't forget: jumper setting for 12 or 15V operation has to be made. additional jumpers for the output pins are necessary.
BTW did you take a look into this documentation for the PSU - especially page 2? (mannesmann-rexroth is actually a power one!):
http://www.modular.fonik.de/pdf/HAA15.pdf _________________
cheers,
matthias
____________
Big Boss at fonitronik
Tech Buddy at Random*Source |
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Dan Lavin
Joined: Nov 09, 2006 Posts: 649 Location: Spring Lake, Mi, USA
Audio files: 21
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:57 am Post subject:
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oops! Matthias is correct.....AC into terminals 1 and 4 |
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Wild Zebra
Joined: Apr 28, 2005 Posts: 806 Location: Ohio
Audio files: 5
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:07 am Post subject:
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All right, so far thanks I got some conformations and additional info. Fonik thanks I knew you'd jump in. Yes I looked at your info, but I kinda thought It'd be good to have a thread so I could hash out some questions. I believe it is already set for 12V I have to cut some jumpers for 15V. What do you guys prefer 12 or 15 (I'm sure this is an on going debate.
So what I have so far is. Jumper 1&3 abd 2&4
attach ground from socket to chassis of PSU and the other two connections are 1 and 4 correct?
Next I have to decide about switching anf fuse. I could use a all in one unit or just have seperate fuse and switch.
Alright know what about the lower prongs? How do these get configured.
(When I made my SEQ I bought a PSU that was already set up just 2 prong no ground to chassis, My Seq works great, but should I think about correcting this?)
Thanks so far!!! _________________ "your stripes are killer bro" |
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Wild Zebra
Joined: Apr 28, 2005 Posts: 806 Location: Ohio
Audio files: 5
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:36 am Post subject:
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Alright I updated the pic above of what I "know" I'll have to find a switch like yours fonik. I like that one, altogether. _________________ "your stripes are killer bro" |
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fonik
Joined: Jun 07, 2006 Posts: 3950 Location: Germany
Audio files: 23
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:18 am Post subject:
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Wild Zebra wrote: | I believe it is already set for 12V I have to cut some jumpers for 15V. What do you guys prefer 12 or 15 (I'm sure this is an on going debate. |
12V is default, right. when i started i planned to use 12V but then my EFM midi2cv converter worked better with 15V. i think it is easier to adapt an 12V circuit for 15V than vice versa (you can allways use LM7x12s). a lot of circuits don't need a modification anyhow.
Quote: | So what I have so far is. Jumper 1&3 abd 2&4
attach ground from socket to chassis of PSU and the other two connections are 1 and 4 correct? |
correct
Quote: | Next I have to decide about switching anf fuse. I could use a all in one unit or just have seperate fuse and switch. |
such a all in one unit is good solution, i think. _________________
cheers,
matthias
____________
Big Boss at fonitronik
Tech Buddy at Random*Source |
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fonik
Joined: Jun 07, 2006 Posts: 3950 Location: Germany
Audio files: 23
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:24 am Post subject:
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Wild Zebra wrote: | Alright I updated the pic above of what I "know" |
just add jumpers from the +/-S terminals next to COM to COM _________________
cheers,
matthias
____________
Big Boss at fonitronik
Tech Buddy at Random*Source |
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Wild Zebra
Joined: Apr 28, 2005 Posts: 806 Location: Ohio
Audio files: 5
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:32 am Post subject:
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Thanks Quote: | just add jumpers from the +/-S terminals next to COM to COM |
Alright I think I'm pretty confident of what to do now. Between the pics and info on your site fonik and what I now learned here.
Sooooo, on to the distribution board. What connectors can I use? any Mouser part#s floating around. Why use four lanes like I see alot. + gr gr -? Can I just use a piece of stripboard and solder female connectors to it? Do I need any additional components on the distro board. I know I'm asking alot of questions. I just like to be thorough before I jump right in and screw stuff up. Even though screwing up's a pretty good way to learn. _________________ "your stripes are killer bro" |
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etaoin
Joined: Jun 30, 2005 Posts: 761 Location: Utrecht, NL
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:09 pm Post subject:
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Quote: | but then my EFM midi2cv converter worked better with 15V |
There's more headroom for the circuits at 15V to output the 0-10V signals that are common in a modular. When operating from 12V, opamp outputs are getting close to the positive rail. As I understand it, you approach the point where you need special rail-to-rail opamps to get the entire 0-10V smoothly from a 12V supplied opamp. |
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fonik
Joined: Jun 07, 2006 Posts: 3950 Location: Germany
Audio files: 23
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:19 pm Post subject:
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Etaoin wrote: | Quote: | but then my EFM midi2cv converter worked better with 15V |
There's more headroom for the circuits at 15V to output the 0-10V signals that are common in a modular. When operating from 12V, opamp outputs are getting close to the positive rail. As I understand it, you approach the point where you need special rail-to-rail opamps to get the entire 0-10V smoothly from a 12V supplied opamp. |
i remember yves usson was mentioning that to me then. i use a LM324. what would be a better choice? i think i should do a little research on opamps in future. _________________
cheers,
matthias
____________
Big Boss at fonitronik
Tech Buddy at Random*Source |
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etaoin
Joined: Jun 30, 2005 Posts: 761 Location: Utrecht, NL
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Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:26 pm Post subject:
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Quote: | i remember yves usson was mentioning that to me then. i use a LM324. what would be a better choice? i think i should do a little research on opamps in future. |
Just had a quick look in the datasheet but that says the LM324 only goes up to +V - 1.5V. That would mean it can just about reach 10V on a 12V supply, but it's very close to its maximum at that point, which usually suggests it's not linear anymore.
Stuff like the OPA4340 is completely rail-to-rail (within 1mV), but expensive. Probably easier to just give it more power to work with. |
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Wild Zebra
Joined: Apr 28, 2005 Posts: 806 Location: Ohio
Audio files: 5
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Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 7:09 am Post subject:
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Thanks for the comments on 12 vs 15. I think I'll stick with 12 for know. The modules I have where actually already done before I got them so swapping op amps might be a bit of a pain. To tell you the truth I probably wouldn't notice any differences. But my next cab I'll try 15.
So how bought connnectors and the distro board? _________________ "your stripes are killer bro" |
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