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 Forum index » Instruments and Equipment » Nord Lead and Nord Wave synths
110-115V to 220-230V or visa versa
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Wout Blommers



Joined: Sep 07, 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 5:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Nice Smile

May I add the txt and pics to the archive?

Wout
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Ndct



Joined: Sep 28, 2010
Posts: 5
Location: France

PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Sure!!!
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Wout Blommers



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

[smooze]Cellphone stupidity...

I don't know where you live, in France, but all female family members are for a long weekend in Paris, this moment.

My wife phoned me asking: "You never guess where I am at the moment!"
"Top of the Eifel tower?"
"How do you know?"

...

[/smooze]

Wout
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Ndct



Joined: Sep 28, 2010
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 9:23 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Smile
I live in the north, about 3 hours in car from Paris!!
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rodv



Joined: Nov 03, 2010
Posts: 9
Location: Guatemala

PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 4:58 pm    Post subject: Nord Lead 2x not working properly
Subject description: Nord lead 2x
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Hi guys, i recently bought a used nordlead 2x, i'm having a problem with the device, this synth was buy on Australia a couple of years ago, so as a result the power of the synth it's intented for 230V

According to the tutorials i've checked, about the fuse and the voltage changes needed i have previously done the switch procedure to 115V inside the synth, also i checked the fuse and it looks like it's not properly for this amount of voltage the fuse shows 250V, could it be possible the problem?

The synth right now turns on, shows lights, sends midi messages, and receives midi messages, the pitch works fine, the wheel works fine, and the problem appears when you play any sound preset or program on the keys it makes a kind of loud white noise sound which results on the imposibility to use it, does somebody have had some type of problem like this before? could it possibly be the fuse? Confused


Here are the pictures of the synth:

http://flic.kr/p/8Qxcjz

http://flic.kr/p/8QAigY

http://flic.kr/p/8Qxc5M

http://flic.kr/p/8QAi2Q

http://flic.kr/p/8QAhU5

http://flic.kr/p/8Qx7hp

http://flic.kr/p/8QAdao

http://flic.kr/p/8Qx6XB

It makes this noise (sorry to your ears):

http://soundcloud.com/muttschallen/nord-lead-noise-mp3

I hope not everything it's lost Sad
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Wout Blommers



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

welcome rodv

It's hard to tell what's wrong, although I know some musicians who would love this sound...

Electronic devices are sensitive to the right power supply. First I would change the fuse!

When the problem isn't solved try the different Outputs. It could have broken DAC's. This can be repaired by a service station.

Wout
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rodv



Joined: Nov 03, 2010
Posts: 9
Location: Guatemala

PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thank you Wout, i will try out with the fuse, i hope it solves the problem, anyway i will be posting my results.
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samambayeah



Joined: Nov 10, 2010
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Location: Brasil

PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

So, i'm in Brazil, and my Nord Rack 2x was set to 115v and i plugged in a 220v plug...

Since the majority of plugs here are 115v, i had already done this on a gig in another city, but only the fuse was blown. This time i already changed it and it was not only the fuse, so i took it to an electrician friend just to see if he can find the problem. He tested everything and the problem apparently is only on the "trafo" (don't know exactly how i say that in english, but since it has "DANSTRAFO DT14275-1" written on the side, i guess it may be similar).

I have gigs scheduled, so i'm in some kind of hurry, but i want to fix it perfectly instead of trying anything wrong.

Don't know if Clavia have some representation/service center in Brazil, since i bought this from a guy on ebay. I didn't found this info on their site too. I'm going to São Paulo to a gig next week, and i'm certain that if they have service centers for clavia in Brazil it has to be on São Paulo...

Anyway, anyone (Wout? heh) can tell me something about retail in Brazil and about the "Trafo" specifications so i could buy another one there?

Thanks guys, i'm really worried about it.
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Wout Blommers



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

samambayeah wrote:
...Anyway, anyone (Wout? heh) can tell me something about retail in Brazil and about the "Trafo" specifications so i could buy another one there?
The Brazilean distributor:

Quanta Music
Av. João Erbolato, 377
Campinas/SP
CEP: 13070-070
Brazil

Phone: +55 19 3741 4644
Quote:
Thanks guys, i'm really worried about it.
Surely you should be, because Clavia only does exchanges: broken one in = new one out.
This takes a couple of weeks, maybe months, if the distributor hasn't any in stock, which is most likely...
And you can't use the Lead all the time...

Are you sure you set the switch to 115 V?

Wout
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pablomastodon



Joined: Jul 07, 2010
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Location: Tampa, FL, USA

PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 12:08 am    Post subject: Changing Fuses Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Either a fuse is good or it is blown. If the fuse is blown the unit will not boot or operate or do anything whatsoever (except for providing an attractive color accent that will warm up any room's decor).

Wout's MOST excellent posts in this thread provide complete documentation of most aspects of the 115v/230v issue. US market units now ship with 300mA fuses and service documents specify that rating.
I have listened to that noise file and feel confident in saying that changing the fuse on that instrument will NOT fix that problem. I'm also glad to say that although I too know musicians who would like that sound, I don't have to work with any of them. Wink

As a general reference, Clavia's distributor's will almost certainly know the best Nord service techs in any given country. And the forum at large can spare Wout much typing by surfing Clavia's website to this link:

http://www.nordkeyboards.com/main.asp?tm=Distributors

and getting contact info there. Rod, I see already that there is no Nord distributor in Guatemala, but you might check to see what else might be closer to you than USA to save shipping costs.

The US Nord repair HQ is in Tampa, Florida, where I also serve as Clavia's tech support rep in the US. I do not wish to solicit business in this forum, but am able and willing to assist Nord owners in need through my regular work email: nord@proaudioe.com.

Sam, if you are unable to find what you need in Sao Paolo, let me know.

Not sure why you say, Wout, that Clavia doesn't repair broken units, because I personally know of several instances within recent months where PCBs have been shipped there from all over the globe for component-level work. You've been around for years and I'm new around Nordland, so perhaps this is a more recent development?

Bless,

Pablo
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Wout Blommers



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I never said Clavia doesn't repair, they surely do! Only not the one which was send in: they make an exchange and repair the broken one later.
Maybe they send these to the service centres? After all, Asogatan Stockholm doesn't have that much space...
And the parts are needed all over the world.

Wout
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handanpatmac



Joined: Jun 19, 2011
Posts: 1
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 3:35 am    Post subject: Stage 2
Subject description: Metal Cage
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Thanks for this thread! I changed the voltage on my stage 2 yesterday, and they've added a metal cage around the switch. We attempted to remove the cage but it's like they've glued the screws on or something. Anyway, the switch was easily reachable through the cage. I will attempt to attach a picture to show this.

Thanks again for posting all that information. It was so helpful!


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Wout Blommers



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

It's obvious Clavia build the case to reduce the power supply hum Smile
The switch is the red thing reading 23(0), I assume...

Nice to be at help here.

Wout
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rodv



Joined: Nov 03, 2010
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Location: Guatemala

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

My synth got fixed i changed the whole motherboard for a new one, now it sounds awesome, Mr. Pablo Mastodon really provided me with all the costumer support i needed and more than i expected, thanks!

I'm not experiencing that hum noise, even do i changed the fuse andit works perfect ... or maybe i'm deaf Shocked Laughing well i guess i'm going to leave it like that.
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Wout Blommers



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

BTW welcome handanpatmac

@ rodv Nice Pablo did a good job. It's what Clavia and distributors are well known for!

Wout
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nulptr



Joined: Oct 22, 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 2:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi,

trying to solve this problem the 'old-fashioned' way (i.e. with a voltage converter) and having some problems...looks like there is a lot of expertise here so hoping someone might have a suggestion.

I have US manufactured (115V) Nord Lead 2 that I am trying to use in the UK. I purchased a 200VA step-down voltage converter rated for devices of up to 200W, which should be more than enough -- certainly it works fine for my 110V Sherman Filterbank and Waldorf Microwave (rated 500mA and 1000mA respectively).

The problem is that power cycling the unit seem to blow the fuse. So I insert a new (250mA) fuse, depress the power button, unit functions, depress the power button again, unit shuts down, depress the power button a third time, fuse blows. For a while I got around this by leaving the power button depressed and pulling the power cable physically out of the voltage converter -- but even this doesn't seem to work consistently, and now I've blown my last fuse.

In addition to being frustrating, this clearly can't be safe for the unit -- but I can't understand why it's happening. Is the 200W transformer simply insufficient for the NL2? (I can't find mA rating for the NL2 anywhere, but all my other synth gear is rated at 1.2 mA or less.) I thought I might have to switch fuses, but since it's still actually getting 110V, it should still take 250mA fuses, not 125mA ones. Unfortunately changing the setting on the board directly isn't an option as I really need to be able to use the unit in both 110 and 220 regions.

Thanks!
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Wout Blommers



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 2:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

welcome nulptr

I believe the power consuming force of a NL2 is around 13 Watt.
What tells the number on the back side?
Older versions only take 200mA fuses...

Wout
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nulptr



Joined: Oct 22, 2011
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Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 2:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Wout Blommers wrote:
I believe the power consuming force of a NL2 is around 13 Watt.


So the transformer should be more than adequate...

Quote:
What tells the number on the back side?
Older versions only take 200mA fuses...


Serial is NA20054995. "115V 250mA SLOW BLOW"

I had never replaced the fuses until blowing one in the EU, we replaced it with a 250mA fuse and never had any problems again, either in Europe or the USA...until now.
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Wout Blommers



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 2:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

So yours is from early 2000 something.
Should take 250mA fuses.
Better contact the British distributor by phone, not by the support site, because you probably have bought the synth in the USA.

Could be some trouble in the power supply.

Wout
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nulptr



Joined: Oct 22, 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Wout Blommers wrote:
So yours is from early 2000 something.


Bought brand new in 2000, yes.

Wout Blommers wrote:
Could be some trouble in the power supply.


As I feared. Thanks.
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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

nulptr wrote:
and now I've blown my last fuse.


Sad

Are you sure they were T type, or slow-blow, fuses? (and not F or fast).

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nulptr



Joined: Oct 22, 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Blue Hell wrote:
nulptr wrote:
and now I've blown my last fuse.


Sad

Are you sure they were T type, or slow-blow, fuses? (and not F or fast).


Now that I look up the product number... these are "mittelträge" -- which suggests neither "flinke" nor "träge". ("Medium-blow" I guess.) Could well have something to do with it Wink
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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yup, that would be it :-)
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Wout Blommers



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 4:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I thought S was for 'slow thinking', which happens to be my way doing things Wink

Anyway, the radio-shack is still open Smile

Wout
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nulptr



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Wout Blommers wrote:

Anyway, the radio-shack is still open Smile


In Scotland on Saturday, nothing is open I'm afraid... Wink

Though this all makes me wonder, why did everything work flawlessly with this medium-blow fuse in the States?
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