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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software
Building The Appendage. Share your Experiences
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marvkaye



Joined: Mar 14, 2011
Posts: 225
Location: Fla

PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Scot Solida wrote:
marvkaye wrote:
Also, any chance you'd be willing to share a full size PDF of your panel, or at least a larger photo that would make seeing everything a bit easier? And where'd you get the panel itself??? Sorry for all the questions, but this is a big project and there's a ton more where these came from. Wink

__________-
<Marv>


I uploaded the JPG I used to print the panel here:

http://www.theelectronicgarden.com/Scot/AppendageBigKnobs.jpg


Very cool, Scott, thanks for sharing that. It's much appreciated.

<Marv>
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marvkaye



Joined: Mar 14, 2011
Posts: 225
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 12:53 pm    Post subject: Appendage components?? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I've started working my way through the Appendage BOM and have hit a snag. I'm pretty sure it won't be my last so I thought I would deal with them as they arise....

The capacitor list calls for a 2nF (2000pF) 1% 50v polypropylene cap and has a Digikey part number. It obviously worked back in '08 when the BOM was originally sourced, but this is a new day and things have changed. That Digikey part is obsolete, they don't appear to have a replacement, and I can't find anything comparable at Mouser. Mouser does have styrene 2nF 50v caps but with a 5% tolerance... any reason that wouldn't work, or do I need to keep searching for the tighter tolerance??? Anybody have another suggestion?

TIA...

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(edited awhile later to correct a typo)
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emdot_ambient



Joined: Nov 22, 2009
Posts: 669
Location: Frederick, MD

PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I saw Ian Fritz is recommending C0G/NP0 ceramic caps for some uses where styrenes normally would be used. If that's the case, then Mouser has these that meet the specs...but they're EXPENSIVE!
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iopop3



Joined: May 28, 2010
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Location: Malmö, Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Polypropylene are called for on c50, c51 and c52 - all used on the LF398's capacitor input. The datasheet even mentions that NPO and COG ceramics exists and can be used.

It might be possible to use a 2.2nF. It will change the hold step which is defined as "The voltage step at the output of the sample and hold when switching from sample mode to hold mode with a steady (dc) analog input voltage." So, basically the curve when going from Sample to Hold will be a little bit different? A bit tired so I might have missed something fundamental here.
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Cat-A-Tonic



Joined: Mar 24, 2008
Posts: 42
Location: Yokohama, Japan

PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 12:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Apologies if I have missed this information, but

Will a HotPot work in the place of a SoftPot?
If one has experience with both could they offer a preference?
HotPots claim to have a nicer texture.

Would it be advantageous to put a Force Sensing Resistor of equal dimensions beneath the Soft/Hot Pot for pressure CV out?
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State Machine
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
Apologies if I have missed this information, but

Will a HotPot work in the place of a SoftPot?
If one has experience with both could they offer a preference?
HotPots claim to have a nicer texture.


Yes, Scott even tested a Hot Pot I believe it was electrically comparable to the soft pot. The texture is different from what I remember, How it was different, I don't remember.

As far as a FSR under the Hotpot, hey why not. In fact you can even sum the two CV's in the MIX section of the Appendage or use the CV from the FSR independently to modulate volume for example. Just more possibilities.

Bill
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wmonk



Joined: Sep 15, 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I started building this beast Cool
only 100 resistors done. So far so good. Anyway, will give some updates on my panel.

Bill, what does the midi mod add to a panel?

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iopop3



Joined: May 28, 2010
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Location: Malmö, Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Stuffed most of the resistors, ICs and diodes. Still need to figure out what kind of case I should use. The board feels a bit too large to mount behind a panel. Right now it looks like I'm aiming at a stand alone instrument.

Noticed a tiny error in the build docs on page 111 (113). In the title for table 8-27 it say 330R instead of 220R. Certainly no show stopper.

Btw. regarding C50-C52, what do you reckon would happen if you use a 2.2nF polystyrene instead ?
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State Machine
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
Noticed a tiny error in the build docs on page 111 (113). In the title for table 8-27 it say 330R instead of 220R. Certainly no show stopper.


Thanks !

Quote:
Btw. regarding C50-C52, what do you reckon would happen if you use a 2.2nF polystyrene instead ?


These are the HOLD capacitors in the first stage of the three two stage S/H circuits. Timing is critical there. Ideally, I would adhere to the BOM and get whats called out otherwise performance may be affected. You probably would be OK to use the 2.2 nF poly. Try it if you have them. You can always change them. If you have to purchase anyways, I would get the 1% capacitors.

Bill
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mark_olson



Joined: Oct 26, 2006
Posts: 177
Location: Lawrence, Kansas

PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

State Machine wrote:
Quote:
Noticed a tiny error in the build docs on page 111 (113). In the title for table 8-27 it say 330R instead of 220R. Certainly no show stopper.


Thanks !


Related to this, are what I believe are incorrect references to "R102" at Tables 8-21, 8-25 and 8-27 as well. Looks like a case of copy-and-paste-itis to me Smile

Mark
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State Machine
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks guys, I will note these changes and post the latest document.
Hope the builds are going well !

Bill
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State Machine
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

OK, new doc posted :

Description:
BUILD & CALIBRATION DOCUMENT FOR REV "H" PCB'S

Download
Filename: Appendage_Build_Procedure_Issue_1_2_1_REV H PCB.pdf

Changes:

Table 8-21, 8-25, and 8-27

Here:

http://electro-music.com/forum/post-340402.html#340402

Thanks again !
Bill
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Satindas



Joined: Mar 26, 2011
Posts: 39
Location: uk

PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 2:16 pm    Post subject: 2nF Caps Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The 2nF polys are like rocking horse shit.
Any reason not to use micas ????
Maybe these
http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/CD19FD202FO3F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtLiKaZgV7flbpGgzyLx4f%2fP6qaeQXYoRw%3d



cheers
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diablojoy



Joined: Sep 07, 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

try googling
rush online capacitors

they have 2nf polystyrene
check for sizes that fit
also an f tolerance = 1%
0.49 GBP each
this is where i go for polystyrenes when i need them
never had a problem with them
also when soldering them in using an aligator clip as a heatsink is highly recommended as they are prone to damage from heat

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State Machine
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
Any reason not to use micas ????
Maybe these


Sure, that will work. Cool

Bill
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Benjamin AM



Joined: Nov 04, 2010
Posts: 57
Location: Boise

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

This build is a a few back in my queue of projects, but it seems to be the one that I tend to think about the most. Does anyone have video of their working Appendage? I've watched Scott's videos(which are great) several times over and I am curious how others use this thing. Thanks.
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State Machine
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:

Posted: Yesterday, at 11:15 am    Post subject:  
This build is a a few back in my queue of projects, but it seems to be the one that I tend to think about the most. Does anyone have video of their working Appendage? I've watched Scott's videos(which are great) several times over and I am curious how others use this thing. Thanks.


Not many videos consider how many I have sold but here is one controlling some Blacet modular gear. He makes use of BEND and TFS and is using one of the GATED modes of operation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATK2MxrIWlo&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Bill
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Scot Solida



Joined: Oct 24, 2009
Posts: 96
Location: Hutchinson Kansas

PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Unfortunately, I never got into making videos. I finished my Appendage yonks ago and played it live at last Summer's KCEM festival. I use it a lot, but simply never filmed anything like that. I'm certain I am a crap videographer. In practical use, I use it to control all manner of things. I particularly like it for controlling LFO or sequencer rates and delay time/feedback on a delay module. But really, anything is fair game!

Mind you, I pretty much got my first play of the thing when Scott came over and hooked his up to my big modular and then again when he helped with calibration of my own (I say "helped", but I was hopeless with the calibration. Fortunately he was not, though my Appendage gave him a bit of grief!)

With that in mind, I don't really use it any differently than he does in those videos!
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unterbit



Joined: Dec 08, 2008
Posts: 30
Location: Russia.St Petersburg

PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi guys!Almost done!My near third serious project,no need to say how it was difficult ,here in Leningrad find out those components..but thankfully online shops all is picked up and populated! I came with 500cm Spectrasymbol,the standoff I done is masterpiece.THE CALIBRATION.
If you thinking that there is something wrong you are absolutely right,so let's not pigeonhole and c'mon get close to my trouble!
I believe that all components stuffed correctly,same for caps,ic,etc.doublecheck
Step1. It's O.K. 1.5v I/V respectably
Step2. Trimming from0.009v I came to pos.rail at 13.7v with Gate led starting flashing,and after excessive turning couldn't come to reasonable response(specialy at low end of ribbon)moreover WITHOUT pressure applied the led is still tends to lit,and goes off only at extreme turning VR1.
Step3.5 no problem here -4.5v done
Step3.7oops..reads neg.-1.5v and all I could get is 0.v,no pos.voltage
Step3.9 VM reads -0.006v and VR2 can't do nothing..(it seems no effect from turning) so no pos.v is achieved .
I took measure at pin 10 of U13 it shows+4v(no pressure applied to rib)the same with disconnected ribbon.So little frustrated I stopped at this point waiting your healing tip.
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unterbit



Joined: Dec 08, 2008
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Location: Russia.St Petersburg

PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

the leds lit still.... Shocked
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Uncle Krunkus
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Joined: Jul 11, 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Your problem at Step2 sounds suspiciously like a problem I had when I was calibrating the prototype. (Not getting a definite on state, and then not able to get the led to turn off.)
In that case it actually turned out to be a dodgy softpot. Bill sent me another one, and it all worked perfectly. We ended up thinking it was because when he first sent them out, he kind of folded them up (gently, but even then).
Now I think he coils them into a loop around a former when he ships them.

Do you have a second softpot you could try? Did they "fold" them when they sent you this one?

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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

BTW,
I still have the one which doesn't work. You can see a definite "dent" in the outside plastic layer, which I think has made an intermittant connection, or altered the overall capacitance of the pot.

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unterbit



Joined: Dec 08, 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
BTW,
I still have the one which doesn't work. You can see a definite "dent" in the outside plastic layer, which I think has made an intermittant connection, or altered the overall capacitance of the pot

I am afraid my is just perfect.No dents observing,came in round big coil.nevertheless tends to work as intended only at up range of.btw,if I change polarity ring vs sl. working area is interpolating to the low end.And voltage at pin10 of U13,(as I heard,should be 0v,with no pressure to the ribb.) my shows 4v.maybe I am wrong but Scot Stites mentioned that.
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unterbit



Joined: Dec 08, 2008
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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 6:24 am    Post subject: My ApNdg Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

here is my not yet calibrated Apendage unit[/img]


IMG_5434_resize.JPG
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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Looks very cool!
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