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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » The layout factory
Buchla 194 Stripboard
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vladosh



Joined: Aug 02, 2010
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 9:25 am    Post subject: Buchla 194 Stripboard Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here's a layout for Buchla 194 Filter
happy building
Vlad


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Nardu



Joined: Feb 28, 2011
Posts: 45
Location: Braila, Romania

PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

- Here's another layout for Buchla 194 Filter, using a standard H25SR050 50x100mm - 2x4 inch stripboard


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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Always nice to see more stripboard layouts! Smile I've been meaning to go through the entire DIY section and weed out all the threads with stripboard layouts and post a page of links to them all for easy reference. The same could be done for perf too. Idea Might take a while though.

Just a couple of things.

Vladosh: You might want to check the distance you have some of those resistors stretching. It may be too much without extending the legs with extra wire or adding a jumper along the way.


Nardu: Your diagram has cuts between the holes. How are you breaking the tracks this way? Are you using a knife? My first build I cut and scraped away the copper with a knife. It took ages! I now use a 3MM drill bit in a pin vice to drill the copper tracks where I need to break them. I drill just enough to cut the track, not all the way through which would affect the structural integrity of the board.

There is a youtube video of this module here if anyone wants to hear it prior to construction:


Last edited by -minus- on Sat Feb 09, 2013 12:24 am; edited 1 time in total
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Nardu



Joined: Feb 28, 2011
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Location: Braila, Romania

PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

@-minus-
Just I like a compact design !
Personally, I scratch with a simple screwdriver - a little harder.
Below, a classic version :


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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Good stuff! I like to fit it all into a small footprint too. Sometimes this doesn't work out so well...

I'll have to give this 194 a go soon. I'm breadboarding the Buchla 110 dual voltage controlled gate today. Once I test it I will draw up a diagram.
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vladosh



Joined: Aug 02, 2010
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

@ Nardu your layout looks Great and compact ,mine is just all over the place ,i knew i could simply repeat the parts somehow but i just draw along the way and @ Minus about putting the layouts together , i thought of it too .. even schematics ,just to have a type of Schematics Vault ..so many layouts and schematics are just scattered all over the Forum ,it'd be nice to have them at one place , Great Layout Nardu
Cheers
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Nardu



Joined: Feb 28, 2011
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Location: Braila, Romania

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Some stripboard helper prints. See pdf file.


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vladosh



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 5:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You know Nardu .. i always wanna leave some space on a stripboard ,just a bit ,to let it breath ,it really never matters to me if it take a cm more or less ,anyway , you perfected the stripboard ,hats off
cheers
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Another way to transfer circuits is to breadboard the circuit and make sure it works, then buy a proto board which matches your breadboard. It's simply a case of transferring your breadboard layout to the solder board. I'm not sure who makes it but I have seen strip board/vero/proto board which is printed with columns of strips with breaks already in it. It might be cheating though! Laughing
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elmegil



Joined: Mar 20, 2012
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I've used the breadboard matching protoboards, and honestly it's not that simple, usually Smile

Biggest drawback is that my breadboard has two channels on each side for power connections, but these usually only have one. And they don't have power lugs, so you lose 4 to 6 rows on one side to connector + caps. And usually it's *shorter* than my breadboard....


Can you tell I've used these a lot? Very Happy

It is a good idea, not trying to throw stones, but there are considerations that need to be taken into account while you're breadboarding if you want to pick up and move it.
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-minus-



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hmmm...

OK, so there isn't really an easy way out! Laughing I've just been trying to get a VCA working. I tried the Buchla 110 and had no luck on breadboard. So I tried the Yusynth one. It worked!! I was so happy! So I drew up a stripboard layout... and well... it doesn't work! I have got so used to this being the usual outcome that it no longer surprises me.

So today as I sit sleep deprived with yet another stripboard to go in the HUGE bag of failures I resolve to do the following...

Stop trying to pack a circuit into the size of a postage stamp! Laughing Taking the electricity around the board along the scenic route is only going to lead to tears, and magic smoke when you start prodding around trying to fix it. It is better to take a direct route even if it means your board will be 50% bigger. I seem to spend a long time trying to get a very small footprint... eliminating a row of holes here, a copper track there. It's not worth it.

Also, as it takes two or three goes for me to get any circuit working, I won't publish any diagram without having built it. As I am building several of each device I can at least be sure it is confirmed without spreading the heartache around to others.

Yeah not having a very successful day here... This turned out to be quite an off topic rant... sorry about that. Rolling Eyes
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vladosh



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

- minus those Bergfotron VCA's are great standard ,working good ,not over complicated ,just saying ... i'd build a Buchla too ,i know someone else on the forum couldn't get the buchla vca's working maybe some error on the schematic
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elmegil



Joined: Mar 20, 2012
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

A lot of the Buchla schematics are rumored to have (possibly deliberate) errors in them. But I'd say if you were able to breadboard it and have it work.....
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Nardu



Joined: Feb 28, 2011
Posts: 45
Location: Braila, Romania

PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

vladosh wrote:
You know Nardu ... hats off ...

Thank you! (Ви благодариме! )
In romanian, we say = jos palaria ! (also common expression) = капи исклучување (machedonian google translation : I hope is good !) = hats off.
- Here, new style : mini 2x3 inch : work, don't use yet !


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Snaper



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Got a question about this...I know, its old Very Happy

What are those points (indicated by red circles) : are those connections?

Also

- whats the red dot on the third line, right under the "1"
- what are the white dots around R4 and C16?

Got every parts for this, but Im a bit confused, I'm not familiar with Lochmaster...


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Nardu



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 1:45 am    Post subject: Buchla 194 Stripboard design in Lochmaster Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

See image below :
- I used this trick to indicate that the two jumper wire use the same hole.
In this way we obtain a compact stripboard design.


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Last edited by Nardu on Thu Jun 26, 2014 4:01 am; edited 2 times in total
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Snaper



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 1:55 am    Post subject: Re: Buchla 194 Stripboard design in Lochaster Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Nardu wrote:
See image below :
- I used this trick to indicate that the two jumper wire use the same hole.
In this way we obtain a compact stripboard design.

Thank you Nardu!
Every part is on the road for this project, but have another question...

Is it possible the following :

- 4 jacks for the 4 outs
- wire the 4 outs thru 4, 10k pots (for attenuation), and sum them on the very top row, then send them out a fifth jack
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Nardu



Joined: Feb 28, 2011
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

@Snaper
See here : http://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/post-586357.html#586357

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Snaper



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Nardu wrote:
@Snaper
See here : http://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/post-586357.html#586357

It says bad link:(
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Blue Hell
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Joined: Apr 03, 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hmm .. link works fine here ...
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yeah, I see now.
I will put together then a CGS mixer on a second 50x100 board paralell with the main.
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Nardu



Joined: Feb 28, 2011
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Snaper wrote:
... It says bad link:(

Attention!
You must be logged on this forum for the link to work.

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Snaper



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yes, my bad Very Happy
Built this today, stripboarded a CGS Mixer to another 50x100, so I can mount them parallel.
In case, have to re-wire, cause I've used to short wires, now I'm not able to mount it properly, but I can CONFIRM that the layout works like a charm.
I've used 860 pF instead of 910 (can't find), and only film caps (and electrolyts).

Can I post the layout of the mixer board? I should maybe I should ask Ken for his permission...
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elmegil



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Snaper wrote:
I should maybe I should ask Ken for his permission...



That seems like the right thing to do Smile
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Nardu



Joined: Feb 28, 2011
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Snaper wrote:
.... I've used 860 pF instead of 910 (can't find)....

Use 1.5 nF and 2.2 nF in series = 892 pF.
Depending tolerance you may find a pair to reach the 910 pF value .

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