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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Klee sequencer
practical considerations
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elmegil



Joined: Mar 20, 2012
Posts: 1476
Location: Chicago
Audio files: 14

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 5:05 am    Post subject: practical considerations Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I've ordered one of NV's Klee kits, and I'm going to be integrating into a 15V system where my rack has 5U spacing on one side and Euro size on the other (just happens to be by accident).

I plan to create "pass through" mults: 1/8" on the Euro side, wired through the case to 1/4" on the other.

The question I have is, how many cables are likely to be needed for patching out a largish Klee patch, so I have some idea of 1) how many 1/8" patch cords I'll need and 2) how many 1/8" jacks I need.


I'm also considering a separate supply to run it at 12V, so that if something happens and I need to sell it, it will be standard rather than needing a lot of rework. I expect that it's not likely to cause me grief on the control side of things, correct?
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NV



Joined: Oct 05, 2008
Posts: 10
Location: Pacific Northwest

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

On average my patches tend to involve somewhere around 6-8 cables running in/out of the Klee. I almost always use every gate bus output (usually either the gate or trigger and not both), usually one output from each of the CV channels (A, B, and A+B) and of course the clock input. The external load gets used frequently as well, especially if you have clock divisions in your system. Set it up to cycle a load every 4/8/whatever bars and you can get some consistent structure going while you focus on flipping switches and moving pots.

However I tend to operate the Klee with a very hands-on approach, so if you prefer to set things and place your focus elsewhere you'll likely benefit from more cables running around. I have had some patches with almost every jack plugged and also some with just a couple cables - it would be a bit of a bummer to have a great patch in mind and run out of cables, so I would err as high as you can.

The changes that would be necessary between 12V and 15V would be:

Main Klee Analogue/Digital Boards:
  • LED resistors (change from 4.7k to 6.8k)
  • Gate bus resistors (change to either the 5V or 10V gate values for 15V operation from Scott's build manual)
  • Recalibrate the offset and range voltage trimpots

Daughterboard
  • Slider LED resistors (change to match the main boards - 4.7k to 6.8k)
  • Change the power header to match whatever format you're switching to

One other optional adjustment would be to change the 1k resistor in the LED driver, but that's only if you want the max brightness to match all the other LEDs. I went with 1k in the kit because it provides more range to visualize the incoming voltage. 1k will hold up just fine with 15V operation, so it's a preference thing.
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elmegil



Joined: Mar 20, 2012
Posts: 1476
Location: Chicago
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

That sounds like a lot of resistors to be resoldering should I have reason to convert it to 12V.

I should have parts around here for an appropriate supply, and the 15V in that rack currently is undersized anyway (and trimmable down to 12), so it should all work very well.

I was looking at it, and it should be trivially easy to get 16 jacks into 1U on the MOTM side, and it looks like that ought to be feasible with a reasonable width on the Euro side, so rock and roll....
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 442
Location: Nashville
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'd go with 12 jack adaptor thingies, just to be safe, if you can. I've used that many on occasion. I can always find a use for all the cv outs - the glide ones are nice for filter cv and such.
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