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isak
Joined: Dec 13, 2009 Posts: 847 Location: Israel
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analogmonster
Joined: May 30, 2011 Posts: 58 Location: Germany
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isak
Joined: Dec 13, 2009 Posts: 847 Location: Israel
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Posted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 12:15 am Post subject:
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I though it would be the answer.
I don't have space for additional rotary switch. _________________ http://www.myspace.com/mgmtrance |
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gdavis
Joined: Feb 27, 2013 Posts: 359 Location: San Diego
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thermionicjunky
Joined: Dec 07, 2006 Posts: 90 Location: san francisco
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Posted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:11 pm Post subject:
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You can wire up a C&K 7211 DPDT as an on-on-on with one position connected to VCO 1, another to VCO 2 and the third to both. A diagram can be found here:
http://www.simple-answer.com/DIY.html |
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Broadwave
Joined: Feb 16, 2007 Posts: 347 Location: Manchester UK
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Broadwave
Joined: Feb 16, 2007 Posts: 347 Location: Manchester UK
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Posted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 12:31 am Post subject:
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thermionicjunky wrote: | You can wire up a C&K 7211 DPDT as an on-on-on with one position connected to VCO 1, another to VCO 2 and the third to both. A diagram can be found here:
http://www.simple-answer.com/DIY.html |
I didn't quite understand the diagram at first, but there's a simple slide show explaining it here :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14i2B8scNaI
If only I'd known about this before I ordered a bunch of rather expensive Fender 2P3T switches |
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isak
Joined: Dec 13, 2009 Posts: 847 Location: Israel
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Posted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 5:00 am Post subject:
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Thanks guys.
Even after seen the tube vid I don't understand the logic of it
I see it is a regular on off on switch, it's the wiring and the outputs I don't understand..
EDIT:
Ok, so if I understadnd this correctly by the tube vid..
A is down
C is up
B is center
? _________________ http://www.myspace.com/mgmtrance |
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gdavis
Joined: Feb 27, 2013 Posts: 359 Location: San Diego
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isak
Joined: Dec 13, 2009 Posts: 847 Location: Israel
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Posted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 1:31 pm Post subject:
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Now I understand what I don't understand.
As I see the layout you show me is on on on, the red lines are changing by the switch position, the blue line is a jumper, till here I'm ok.
In the on off on switch I don't get the red lines like in the on on on switch.
This is got me confused.
I see that when the on on on switch is in center position it shorts from the upper right to center and the lower left to center which I don't get in the on off on switch.
I guess the conclusion is I will need an on on on switch and can't do this with on off on switch, right? _________________ http://www.myspace.com/mgmtrance |
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elmegil
Joined: Mar 20, 2012 Posts: 2177 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 6:08 pm Post subject:
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I think the point is that the on-on-on switch would be more straightforward (once you wrap your head around it--a tough job, it took me a while too). You can use on-off-on, but you'll have to add additional logic and something like a 4066 switch to route the signals the way you have stated, whereas with the on-on-on it's just a wiring exercise. A tricky one, but still you basically just wire your inputs to the right places, and a common to the next stage, and you're done.
Here's Scott Stites' version of explaining the switch, you may find it easier to follow. As someone else already said, you could wire it so that each VCO was connected to one 'side' of the switch, and the center position would combine them--assuming you had summing resistors before the switch.
http://www.birthofasynth.com/Thomas_Henry/Images/SN-Voice_construction/c&k7211_3way.jpg
Edit: I'd wire VCO1 to pin 3, VCO2 to pin 4, wire 5 & 2 together and run them to the thing that was taking the sum (likely an op amp). Or maybe reverse pins 3 & 4 if I got the direction of the switch wrong |
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isak
Joined: Dec 13, 2009 Posts: 847 Location: Israel
Audio files: 18
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Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 7:54 am Post subject:
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Thanks, all the time I was thinking they takes about the on off on switch, this I why I got confused.
Now its all clear to me
Any source to the on on on switch?
All I find in eBay is the on off on, not on on on.
Cheers. _________________ http://www.myspace.com/mgmtrance |
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elmegil
Joined: Mar 20, 2012 Posts: 2177 Location: Chicago
Audio files: 16
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Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 9:25 am Post subject:
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I bought some from Mouser.... |
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isak
Joined: Dec 13, 2009 Posts: 847 Location: Israel
Audio files: 18
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Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 11:45 pm Post subject:
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The problem with mouser is the expensive shipping.
If you don't make a BIG buy it's not worth the shipping. _________________ http://www.myspace.com/mgmtrance |
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elmegil
Joined: Mar 20, 2012 Posts: 2177 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 4:48 am Post subject:
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I would imagine there are other sources, but I'm at a point where EBay is last resort, because I've been burned and hear too many bad stories. |
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isak
Joined: Dec 13, 2009 Posts: 847 Location: Israel
Audio files: 18
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Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 5:38 am Post subject:
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elmegil wrote: | I would imagine there are other sources, but I'm at a point where EBay is last resort, because I've been burned and hear too many bad stories. |
its depends, you need to know from who to buy.
i have my my fav shops, only from there im ordering, never failed me.
i ordered some TL074 from unknown source and got burned so i know what your talking about. _________________ http://www.myspace.com/mgmtrance |
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Sebo
Joined: Apr 27, 2007 Posts: 564 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 8:15 am Post subject:
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Hi:
May be you can try a circuit like the one used in panpots.
Connect the LFO to both VCOs throught a resistor, then use a common on-off-on switch, extreme pins conected to VCO mod inputs after de resistor, and middle pin connected to ground. So when the switch is in the middle both VCOs have the LFO modulation, when you move the switch to one side, the input goes to ground and that VCO will have no modulation. _________________ Sebo
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My Music:
https://www.facebook.com/cosaquitos/ |
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isak
Joined: Dec 13, 2009 Posts: 847 Location: Israel
Audio files: 18
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Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 12:42 pm Post subject:
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Hi Sebo.
You got me confused..
Any pic to follow your description?
Cheers _________________ http://www.myspace.com/mgmtrance |
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Sebo
Joined: Apr 27, 2007 Posts: 564 Location: Argentina
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isak
Joined: Dec 13, 2009 Posts: 847 Location: Israel
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Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 3:39 pm Post subject:
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Thanks for the scheme Sebo!
As I understand it's not an DPDT switch?
What would be the appropriate values of R1,2,3,4? 1k for each one will be ok?
Last question...
I see what you mean by center position will be both vco's.
But if I'm not mistaken when the switch position will be up for example one path will be passing smoothly, the second path will short with ground but part of it wouldn't go to the vco? I'm asking cause eventually I see it's connected to the vco through a resistor but still connected. _________________ http://www.myspace.com/mgmtrance |
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Sebo
Joined: Apr 27, 2007 Posts: 564 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 4:28 pm Post subject:
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The switch is a common on-off-on switch.
The values for R1, R2, R3 & R4 depends on the value of the input resistor of the VCO CV summing network. Usually this resistor is 100K. You have to remove the original resitor and use R3/R4 instead. In that case a good value will be 51K for all resistors. If you don't want to remove the resistor on the VCO, ommit R3 & R4 and try a small value for R1 & R2, something like 10K will work (I think), but the modulation deep will be a little less than normal... _________________ Sebo
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My Music:
https://www.facebook.com/cosaquitos/ |
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isak
Joined: Dec 13, 2009 Posts: 847 Location: Israel
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Sebo
Joined: Apr 27, 2007 Posts: 564 Location: Argentina
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isak
Joined: Dec 13, 2009 Posts: 847 Location: Israel
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