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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software
Another ARP2600 Clone on it's way...
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AndyR1960



Joined: Feb 16, 2007
Posts: 285
Location: Manchester UK
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 2:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Kipling wrote:


The original front panel design shows an arrow between the two sockets suggesting that they are perhaps linked by the switched contacts of one or both sockets so it feeds back into the external vibrato input if no plugs are inserted in either socket. The service manual does not show any connection between the two on the schematic nor mention it in the text. It's a simple job to connect them if required.

I also presume the Lower Voice Output (CV) goes via the lead to the 2600/TTSH as the main CV output, and the Upper Voice Output goes to both Upper Voice Output sockets on the front panel.


Hi Kipling… Correct on both accounts. The delayed vibrato output goes to the 3.5 socket switch side, and the external vibrato goes back to the CV mix, that will disconnect the delayed vibrato when using an external modulation input.

The upper voice is a separate socket on the panel, and the lower voice is outputted along with Gate & Trigger (and of course the +/-/0v supply), via a 6 core cable to the main console.
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Kipling



Joined: Jan 12, 2014
Posts: 8
Location: England

PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

AndyR1960 wrote:

Hi Kipling… Correct on both accounts. The delayed vibrato output goes to the 3.5 socket switch side, and the external vibrato goes back to the CV mix, that will disconnect the delayed vibrato when using an external modulation input.

The upper voice is a separate socket on the panel, and the lower voice is outputted along with Gate & Trigger (and of course the +/-/0v supply), via a 6 core cable to the main console.


Thanks for the prompt response Andy - a great help. Very Happy
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skanker



Joined: Apr 24, 2014
Posts: 4
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi Andy.

Very impressed with your build. it looks fantastic.

Im very interested in the keyboard you've made as my 2600 is crying out for one as well as a new case as mine a little tatty.

Can you tell me where you got the materials for your case build please?

Cheers!
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mosc
Site Admin


Joined: Jan 31, 2003
Posts: 17618
Location: Allentown, PA
Audio files: 125
G2 patch files: 60

PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I just came across this thread.

What a beautiful project. Your craftsmanship is splendid. Bravo!

I used to have a 2600 in the '70s. Yours is a dead ringer for sure. thumb up

wave

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isak



Joined: Dec 13, 2009
Posts: 725
Location: Israel
Audio files: 18

PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

skanker wrote:
Hi Andy.

Very impressed with your build. it looks fantastic.

Im very interested in the keyboard you've made as my 2600 is crying out for one as well as a new case as mine a little tatty.

Can you tell me where you got the materials for your case build please?

Cheers!


Hi there Smile

If you read the first page you'll find the info about the faceplate and the cabinet.

Cheers,
Isak E.

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skanker



Joined: Apr 24, 2014
Posts: 4
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 3:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi.

I've read the whole thread and theres no mention of where he got the tolex or metal case fittings from?
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isak



Joined: Dec 13, 2009
Posts: 725
Location: Israel
Audio files: 18

PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

AndyR1960 wrote:
I did all the panel graphics in Adobe Illustrator - 3 layers:

1. Laser cuts
2. Orange graphics
3. White graphics

I had the panel Laser Cut in 1.5mm Mild Steel, by Cutting Technologies in Barnsley, UK (£120.00). Then it was powder coated in satin black by Ashton Powder Coating, Manchester (£35.00), and finally a two colour screen print by MRT in Stockport (£145.00).

MDF was cut at B&Q (£28.00), Tolex, glue and case hardware came in at £53.00

So, the cabinet and panel alone came in at a total of £381.00


How about that Wink

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skanker



Joined: Apr 24, 2014
Posts: 4
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 5:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi & thanks but as i said, I've read the thread through and theres no mention of where to buy the Tolex or the metal case fittings.

Not sure if you have B&Q in Israel but they do not sell Tolex
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AndyR1960



Joined: Feb 16, 2007
Posts: 285
Location: Manchester UK
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

skanker wrote:
Hi & thanks but as i said, I've read the thread through and theres no mention of where to buy the Tolex or the metal case fittings.

Not sure if you have B&Q in Israel but they do not sell Tolex


Hi Skanker,

The tolex was from http://www.solsound.com (I got the Marshall Black Levant, as the better Fender tolex is always out of stock). I used Evostik contact adhesive, but after a year, some of the overlaps are peeling back! I need to find something stronger to fix this (Hide glue has been suggested, which I'll try) .

The corner protectors/latches/handles are from Blue Aran - http://www.bluearan.co.uk/forums.html?id=ADH4007

The corner straps from ebay (USA... no one in the UK has them, unless you want ugly angular straps) - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sunn-Amp-Corner-Brace-concert-Lead-slave-coliseum-/131169000310?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e8a481b76

Hope this helps,

Andy.
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skanker



Joined: Apr 24, 2014
Posts: 4
Location: Manchester

PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi Andy, Thats great.

Many thanks for the heads up mate. Hopefully i can get mine looking just as good very soon!
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LFLab



Joined: Dec 17, 2009
Posts: 191
Location: Rosmalen, Netherlands

PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'd stay away from hide glue, Andy. It's a right mess.
Maybe white wood glue like titebond? You'd need to compress it while drying though.
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AndyR1960



Joined: Feb 16, 2007
Posts: 285
Location: Manchester UK
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

LFLab wrote:
I'd stay away from hide glue, Andy. It's a right mess.
Maybe white wood glue like titebond? You'd need to compress it while drying though.


Thanks for the tip... I'll try the Titebond
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diablojoy



Joined: Sep 07, 2008
Posts: 795
Location: melbourne australia
Audio files: 11

PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hmm a sprayable contact should be the best if used correctly
sprayed on both surfaces and allowed to dry till only slightly tacky before pressing together , of course you only get one go at it that way, no second chances !
titebond would be my second choice, hide glue probably not so great
but easily re- glues with some heat.

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Kipling



Joined: Jan 12, 2014
Posts: 8
Location: England

PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Well after ages of PCB tweaking and panel making (by hand apart from the slider slots which I used a router for), not to mention many hours wiring up the very fiddly Kimber Allen keyboard contacts with resulting burnt finger tips, I've finally finished the 3620 clone PCB, lead, panel and keybed, All I need to do now is build and tolex the case for it, and have done the CAD drawings in preparation.

Oh, and finish building the TTSH which has taken a back seat while I build the 3620, so I can plug it in and test/calibrate it.....

It is built to the original ARP circuit (right down to IMF3958 dual J-FETs) and 2N4392 replacements for two of the 2N5459s as per factory change note, on a single PCB to which everything is mounted apart from three sockets. I managed to get some 0.47uF polycarbonate capacitors (Philips MKC344 series) from an ebay member in Poland so hopefully S/H will work fine. I made the PCB compatible with those and the polystyrene brick capacitors I already had from Rush Online.

If I were to start again, I'd get all the ceramic capacitor lead spacing correct (did all of them as 7.5mm instead of 5mm) and the Bourns trimmers which I wrongly thought were on a 0.2 x 0.2" grid. They're 0.2 x 0.1" but thankfully the wiper lead is long enough to bend to reach the pad.

If it all works, and if anyone were interested, I have three spare PCBs so would be open to sensible offers for them (circa £30 each plus postage), and can supply CAD files for the panel, screen printing and case.

Thanks to those who've offered help in getting this far, especially AndyR1960, without whom I'd probably not have started the project.

Will post pics of the finished article ASAP.


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diablojoy



Joined: Sep 07, 2008
Posts: 795
Location: melbourne australia
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 2:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

orsm work Cool
Oh and hell yeah, really interested in getting one of those boards
I did get my keyboard temporarily going with one of ray wilsons
single buss keyboard circuits as I had it lying around so my TTSH is running for the moment with that , but this would be so much better.
my case is done but I allowed space for another panel for keyboard controls, a sequencer plus a bit more ( actually it's almost the same size again as the TTSH panel )
just let me know how much you want for one including postage to OZ.
Is paypal ok ?
cheers

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ask where the hell am I
oh yeah thats right the land of OZ
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Kipling



Joined: Jan 12, 2014
Posts: 8
Location: England

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

diablojoy wrote:
orsm work Cool
Oh and hell yeah, really interested in getting one of those boards
I did get my keyboard temporarily going with one of ray wilsons
single buss keyboard circuits as I had it lying around so my TTSH is running for the moment with that , but this would be so much better.
my case is done but I allowed space for another panel for keyboard controls, a sequencer plus a bit more ( actually it's almost the same size again as the TTSH panel )
just let me know how much you want for one including postage to OZ.
Is paypal ok ?
cheers

Thank you kindly.

I'll check out the postage costs and get back to you in due course, but I really want to be able to test it successfully first for your peace of mind.

My panel design is 170(W) x 230mm(H) - 5mm all round larger than the PCB. I had to guesstimate the original panel size from the original PCB dimensions, and mine might actually be a little larger than the original.

It has to be said if you can pick up a genuine 3620 for less than £500 GBP then you'd be better off with that as this is not a cheap project - the keybed alone cost me £360. Obviously if you can lay your hands on a good 2-contact/key keybed for a song then it makes it worthwhile, plus the enormous satisfaction of doing it yourself.

The IMF3958s came in at £19 GBP each (and I hope they're genuine - they test OK) but 2N3958s should also work fine (not quite so rare or expensive but still not cheap) and I recall AndyR saying he used two 2n5459s instead for each. I used 0.1% 100R precision resistors for the keyboard but you could probably get away with 0.5 or 1% without any noticeable difference.
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diablojoy



Joined: Sep 07, 2008
Posts: 795
Location: melbourne australia
Audio files: 11

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
It has to be said if you can pick up a genuine 3620 for less than £500 GBP then you'd be better off with that as this is not a cheap project


That would be cheating Laughing
No seriously I just prefer DIY
keybed shouldn't be too big an issue I believe I have a workable solution to add a second buss to the existing one
I have mostly everything else including the polystyrene (bricks Laughing )
very apt description

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ask where the hell am I
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patroche



Joined: Feb 26, 2012
Posts: 13
Location: montelimar

PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

2n3958 - 2N3958s are same than IMF3958s
You can purchase its on ebay china , they run !

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Kipling



Joined: Jan 12, 2014
Posts: 8
Location: England

PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I bought two 2N3958s from a supplier on ebay from south east Asia months ago and when I eventually got round to opening the package (well beyond the return period) there was something entirely different in there - not even transistors!

Lesson learned.
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