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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Lunettas - circuits inspired by Stanley Lunetta
Lunetta-Lab board
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synaesthesia



Joined: May 27, 2014
Posts: 61
Location: Germany
Audio files: 17

PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 11:26 am    Post subject: Lunetta-Lab board
Subject description: the semi-modular Lunetta experimenter board
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Working with breadboards more often lately, I finally reached a point where I can't stand the mess of wires and the fragility of the connections any more. Too often I forgot to connect a reset line and wondered why the circuit isn't working as expected. Too often I pressed the ICs harder into the breadboard to find it suddenly working. Something else is needed... I don't want everything hard-wired, it needs to be patchable. But I don't want to go all the way to a modular Lunetta either. I do admire the modular Lunettas I have seen here, but my case building skills and nerves are simply not up to that task. So here is my plan:

It is going to be a 'semi-modular' Lunetta: everything on a single board
But patchable: chips can be connected by Dupont wires
Featuring: many of the interesting ideas from this board
Single supply: only 5V power from a power adapter
And of course: all CMOS (well almost, there is a LM358 and a LM386)

Not suffering from a shortage of chips and ideas I started to collect circuit snippets and made a list. Cut that down to the most important modules for the designs I have in mind. Then cut it down again to the absolute necessary. Still a full PCB, although it is quite large with a size of 13x25cm. The case I will be using is a simple Plexiglass box about 28x16x5cm in size. It will hold the pots, a few switches and the board of course. The internal speaker is a tiny flat speaker only for emergencies, and for recording, when the line out connection will be in use.
At this time the circuit design and layout is ready, the board is ready (drilled and varnished), the box is ready (all holes drilled), and I plan to start soldering the board on the weekend. Hope I didn't forget anything, and there won't be some extremely cool circuit that I see on this board before I am finished... Smile
Here is what I plan to have on the board (top left to bottom right)
    8x 47..100K resistors
    8x 10n..1u capacitors
    2x Vactrols (DIY LED+LDR)
    2x 100K trimmers on board
    2x 500K external potentiometers
    2x SPDT external switches
    1x 4046 PLL with optional glide
    2x 1/6 40106 pulse generators
    4x 1/6 40106 oscillators with external pots, switchable caps and diode gate inputs
    2x 4066 digitally controlled resistors (poor man's digipot)
    1x 4022 counter+decoder (divider)
    1x simple envelope generator
    2x 4040 12-bit counter
    2x 1/2 4520 4-bit counters
    1x 4021 parallel loadable 8-bit shift register
    1x 74HC595 8-bit shift register
    2x 1/2 4015 4-bit shift register
    1x 1/6 4069 tunable IGMF band pass filter
    4x 1/4 4093 frequency doublers
    12x 1/4 4093 NAND (Schmitt Trigger) gates
    4x 1/4 4030 XOR gates
    6x 1/6 40106 inverters (Schmitt Trigger)
    1x 4051 8-to-1 analog switches
    2x 1/2 4052 4-to-1 analog switches
    3x 1/3 4053 2-to-1 analog switches
    4x 1/4 4066 analog switches
    2x 1/4 4093 pulse burst generators (like in the Wheel of Fortune)
    4x 4-bit resistor networks to drive VCO's
    2x 1/4 4093 VCOs (like in the Wheel of Fortune)
    1x 1/2 LM358 saw LFO for the 4046 PLL
    1x 1/2 LM358 simple drum circuit
    12x 1/6 4049 LED drivers

All have single pin rows for inputs and double pin rows for outputs, so I can patch to two other inputs. All pre-wired with power supply and pull-up or pull-down resistors for enable/reset/mode controls. A few extra pin rows to distribute signals with high fan-out and a few power connections for a breadboard. And all crammed onto the 13x25cm board. Hope I won't regret this.
I tried most circuits on breadboard before, but not all - no risk, no fun. If anybody is interested, I am going to share the schematics when it all works, although you should find only stuff that has been shared on this board already.


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Last edited by synaesthesia on Thu Aug 07, 2014 12:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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commathe



Joined: Jul 26, 2013
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'm really looking forward to this! Especially that pll schematic
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synaesthesia



Joined: May 27, 2014
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here it is, commathe. Nothing special, just the chip waiting to get the inputs to do something interesting. I will experiment with the 4046 once the board is done. VG = virtual ground = Vdd/2. The LFO is prepared to be connected the same way as in the 'Tune In Tokyo' circuit.


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Vanwonky



Joined: Jul 24, 2013
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Location: Perth, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 6:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Lunetta-Lab board
Subject description: the semi-modular Lunetta experimenter board
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synaesthesia wrote:
Working with breadboards more often lately, I finally reached a point where I can't stand the mess of wires and the fragility of the connections any more.


Amen to that! This is going to be very interesting. Look forward to seeing it.
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synaesthesia



Joined: May 27, 2014
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Step 1: IC sockets and pin rows


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PHOBoS



Joined: Jan 14, 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

looks good Popcorn time
Hope those connectors work out for you. I tried it but reversed,. so female connectors and males jumper cables and that wasn't too great.
But I also used crappy cables and I think what you're doing might work a lot better. Very Happy

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synaesthesia



Joined: May 27, 2014
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Step 2: resistors and capacitors


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synaesthesia



Joined: May 27, 2014
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi PHOBoS, there are male jumper cables that might work better with your female connectors. Just found this when looking for jumper cables for my board:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/2-Pcs-2-54mm-Pitch-1P-1P-40Pin-M-M-Connect-Test-Jumper-Wire-Cable-10cm-Long-/291186927362?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item43cc17e702
They have double wire pin headers and should connect better than normal male headers.
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corex



Joined: Mar 02, 2010
Posts: 114
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I was working on a kind of similar project myself earlier this year. I wanted a very modular Lunetta-style logic lab, with 3.5mm I/O compatible with Eurorack.

I designed a series of PCBs and then screwed them all to a piece of plywood:
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

The male jumpers and female headers combo is probably not the most robust thing but it's all pretty cheap and easy to replace when something breaks.

[Edit:] Oh yeah, some sound samples:
https://soundcloud.com/iamcoreks/logic-board-latch-sample-rate
https://soundcloud.com/iamcoreks/logic-board-with-eurorack-vcas-patch-2
https://soundcloud.com/iamcoreks/live-logic-noise

Last edited by corex on Thu Aug 14, 2014 2:16 pm; edited 1 time in total
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analog_backlash



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I also started doing the same sort of thing (but far crappier) as shown below. I went through a bad patch and it's been gathering dust a bit... I did get some reasonable sounds out of it e.g.:

http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-57553.html

Two main problems:

1) I used turned-pin SIL connectors and couldn't perfect a good way to connect to them
2) I used preset pots with spindles, which predictably got very crackly

I will resurrect it one day. Trouble is, I keep going off at tangents Rolling Eyes

Gary


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synaesthesia



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Step 3: wiring (power lines and short connections)


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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

are you using any decoupling capacitors ? didn't see those in step 2 and could be necessary with such a large amount of chips.

those double wire pin header cables do look better btw Smile

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synaesthesia



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yes, a couple of them. There are six 100nF distributed over the board, and two 100uF at the power connectors. The oscillator chip gets an extra 10uF close-by. Hope that will be enough. I typically insert a few more 100nF once a board is almost done where I see space for them.
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synaesthesia



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Step 4: second wiring layer (point-to-point connections)


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commathe



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Are you using enameled wire to keep them insulated from one another?
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synaesthesia



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yes. I always use normal 0,5mm wire for the power lines and 0,3mm enameled wire for the point-to-point connections. Works great, even with very densely populated boards. I never had a short-cut. Removing the isolation from the tips of the enameled wire is a bit laborious, but a special scraping tweezer helps. I haven't seen any enameled wire yet that is easy to solder.
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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I've used wire wrap wire in the past ... the stuff with teflon insulation is unusable, but I had it with a normal plastic insulation, and that was really easy to use, just strip it with the iron, or heat it up a bit and use finger nails. You can even strip it in the middle of a wire that way.
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helge-h



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

To continue this little side-step; I've used something that was called Solder-Wrap a long time ago. Couldn't find it now, but I found this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiring_pencil - and also this: http://uk.farnell.com/roadrunner/rrp-103/wiring-pencil/dp/145223, which looks the same. The wire is meant to be soldered without scraping off the insulation. But the fumes may be toxic, as Wikipedia says.

Helge
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corex



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

synaesthesia wrote:
Step 3: wiring (power lines and short connections)

Nice-looking perf work!
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synaesthesia



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Done. Tomorrow it will move into the already prepared box.

One thing that I really regret is that I didn't spend a few $$ more and bought a green pre-tinned FR4 board. The normal copper plated boards are so tedious to solder. Nevertheless, the stability should be ok. There are 20 spacers distributed over the board so that it doesn't bend when I insert or remove a cable.


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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Looks great!
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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

thumleft
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synaesthesia



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Finished! And working great. I have attached a small speaker to test the "emergency amplifier". Later it will be used with a small external amplified speaker that can be plugged in at the lower right. Power input is at the lower left. The wires used for patching are Dupont cables with female connectors.


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Last edited by synaesthesia on Tue Sep 09, 2014 2:46 pm; edited 1 time in total
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synaesthesia



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

And as promised, here are the final schematics I used.


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synaesthesia



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Changes I would make if I would build this again:
1 - add two more oscillators, you can never have enough
2 - replace one 4040 by another 4520, one long counter is enough
3 - add one or two push buttons (non-locking) for triggers/resets
4 - increase the volume resistor pot to 20K or 50K
5 - change the clock burst circuit and add pots for length and frequency
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