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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » YuSynth
A NEW (IMPROVED) VERSION OF THE YUSYNTH ADSR
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questionable



Joined: Aug 27, 2006
Posts: 42
Location: southern california

PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks, Yves, for the nice redesign. I've just etched 3 boards this morning and will be building them shortly.
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furio



Joined: Dec 25, 2009
Posts: 106
Location: Austria

PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks Yves!


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yusynth



Joined: Nov 24, 2005
Posts: 1314
Location: France

PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Excellent Cool
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iopop3



Joined: May 28, 2010
Posts: 94
Location: Malmö, Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Started on my ADSR boards last weekend, noticed a tiny error in the bom.

The number of 1N4148s should be 5 not 4. D5 is missing.

Also the D5 configuration is quite interesting, whats the purpose? I can think of a few reasons, but none of them feels right.
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HexInverter



Joined: Aug 21, 2010
Posts: 338
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Just built a dual one of these in my 5U Serge-style format. Besides the usual blemishing on the panel from acid eating away irregularly, I think they turned out great. They work very well! Thanks for the excellent design, Yves Smile

When I first built them, my LEDs were not working. I did observe correct envelope generation on my oscilloscope, though, so was confused. I did some searching and found the thread where you described that the LED and D5 were reverse biased. I swapped them around and now they work great Smile

Here are a couple of photos!


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El Mop



Joined: Aug 20, 2012
Posts: 56
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Same Problem here.
Working envelope but not the LED.
Could not find that thread with the search function.
Do I just have to change the direction of both, the LED and the diode?
Thank you.
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HexInverter



Joined: Aug 21, 2010
Posts: 338
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

El Mop wrote:
Same Problem here.
Working envelope but not the LED.
Could not find that thread with the search function.
Do I just have to change the direction of both, the LED and the diode?
Thank you.


I am pretty sure I changed both...it's been awhile though!!! I kinda forgot Wink

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himijendrix



Joined: Apr 16, 2012
Posts: 18
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello, I built two of Yusynth's ADSR modules.

But since a while I use a Korg Electribe to play Midi notes, the problem i have now, is that the ADSR only has a GATE Input.
So when the Electribe sends a Midi On + a short Gate the ADSR's envelope only lasts for this short Gate time. So I can't produce long period envelopes. A Solution would be a Trigger Input for the ADSR, right? Any Ideas how to do this?
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gdavis



Joined: Feb 27, 2013
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

JE wrote:
Hello, I built two of Yusynth's ADSR modules.

But since a while I use a Korg Electribe to play Midi notes, the problem i have now, is that the ADSR only has a GATE Input.
So when the Electribe sends a Midi On + a short Gate the ADSR's envelope only lasts for this short Gate time. So I can't produce long period envelopes. A Solution would be a Trigger Input for the ADSR, right? Any Ideas how to do this?


No, a trigger would just restart the envelope. The gate is what defines the duration of the note, so if you want a longer note, you need to make your gate longer.

How are you generating the gate signal from the electribe? As far as I can tell it doesn't have this feature built in.

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himijendrix



Joined: Apr 16, 2012
Posts: 18
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

With the Electrictribe TR-1 you can select a MIDI Note for each pattern, which is sent to the MIDI Out whenever the pattern is played. But Gate time and Velocity is fixed and can't be changed.

The Music From Outer Space Mini Synth has a trigger Input, which means that when a short Gate Signal/Trigger is sent to the ADSR it will run thorugh the whole Attack Decay Sustain Release Cycle...
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elmegil



Joined: Mar 20, 2012
Posts: 2177
Location: Chicago
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The minisynth has no sustain phase when it's in triggered mode. it's just attack-release.
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gdavis



Joined: Feb 27, 2013
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

JE wrote:
With the Electrictribe TR-1 you can select a MIDI Note for each pattern, which is sent to the MIDI Out whenever the pattern is played. But Gate time and Velocity is fixed and can't be changed.

The Music From Outer Space Mini Synth has a trigger Input, which means that when a short Gate Signal/Trigger is sent to the ADSR it will run thorugh the whole Attack Decay Sustain Release Cycle...


I see what you're saying about the MFOS ADSR. I hadn't seen that before, that's actually a pretty neat feature.

I'm sure the YuSynth ADSR could be modified with the same feature but I'm not familiar enough with the circuit to come up with an efficient way so hopefully Yves or someone else can help.

I still don't understand how you're getting from the midi output to a gate/trigger. Depending on that, you might have some other options for creating a longer gate signal that lets the ADSR go through it's cycle.

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yusynth



Joined: Nov 24, 2005
Posts: 1314
Location: France

PostPosted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You can use a yusynth PULSE delay for this : http://yusynth.net/Modular/index_en.html

This module will let you set the duration of a GATE cycle when triggered with a brief trigger. Set the delay knob to its minimum and adjust the duration of the GATE OUT with the WIDTH knob (from 1ms to 1s).

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Starspawn



Joined: Jun 14, 2013
Posts: 85
Location: Oslo

PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2013 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I cant find where to order PCBs?
Bridechamber has no ADSR and there is no shop on yusynth site.
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yusynth



Joined: Nov 24, 2005
Posts: 1314
Location: France

PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2013 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

This is normal Bridechamber did not add it to its shop and personally I don't sell PCBs. You have to do it yourself or find somebody to do it for you.

Regards

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Last edited by yusynth on Sat Aug 03, 2013 1:56 am; edited 1 time in total
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Starspawn



Joined: Jun 14, 2013
Posts: 85
Location: Oslo

PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ah, ok, thanks for the great design in any case Smile
Any stripboard versions around?
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col2



Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Posts: 16
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 4:25 am    Post subject: swapping out the tantulum caps
Subject description: swapping out the tantulum caps
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Hi,

I would like to build 1 maybe 2 of the Yusynth ADSR modules. I was wondering if it is possible to avoid using tantalum caps? Possible swapping them out with electrolytics?

cheers,
col2
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gdavis



Joined: Feb 27, 2013
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 8:06 pm    Post subject: Re: swapping out the tantulum caps
Subject description: swapping out the tantulum caps
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col2 wrote:
Hi,

I would like to build 1 maybe 2 of the Yusynth ADSR modules. I was wondering if it is possible to avoid using tantalum caps? Possible swapping them out with electrolytics?

cheers,
col2


Tantalum is used because of it's high capacitance and low leakage which are both important factors in long duration timing circuits like an ADSR. The higher leakage of aluminum electrolytics will negatively affect the performance of the ADSR. By how much I couldn't say, and I don't think there would be any other issues with using aluminum electrolytic so shouldn't hurt to try it and see how it works.

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col2



Joined: Feb 15, 2014
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 2:04 am    Post subject: Re: swapping out the tantulum caps
Subject description: swapping out the tantulum caps
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gdavis wrote:


Tantalum is used because of it's high capacitance and low leakage which are both important factors in long duration timing circuits like an ADSR. The higher leakage of aluminum electrolytics will negatively affect the performance of the ADSR. By how much I couldn't say, and I don't think there would be any other issues with using aluminum electrolytic so shouldn't hurt to try it and see how it works.


Thanks for that, will give it a go and see what happens, I have some nice Starget and Nichicon ELNAs to try. I went to print out the PCB pcf file today to have a go at transferring it to copper clad but it's the full size of a page! I guess I will have to brush up on my graphic design skills.

cheers,
col2.
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joshs



Joined: Dec 05, 2014
Posts: 32
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 12:56 pm    Post subject: Removing Inverse? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Howdy! Thanks so much for posting these great designs. I already have your Steiner VCF clone built and now I'm working on a dual ADSR using this design. My question is this... if I'm not interested in an inverse out, is it possible to take that whole section out starting from R18 through U2c and of course the jack itself? Or is that part of the circuit also affecting the ADSR out as well? It's not the biggest deal to keep it really, but seeing as I'm building two, it gives me the option of possibly reducing the part count and saving some panel space. On a similar note, how about removing the LED section, will that affect the circuit. I think it's really cool having the blinking, but I could build a dual version on one TL074 if I got rid of both of those sections... Of course that would require some extra work designing the PCB Smile
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joshs



Joined: Dec 05, 2014
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Oh, also, I notice a very minor discrepancy. It seems that the circuit board and schematic differ slightly, although in a way that doesn't affect the circuit. Look at the way the jumper is done for the resistor half of the Slow/Fast jumpers. Not a big deal of course, but I'm putting the circuit together in Eagle and comparing between the schematic and board. Couldn't figure out why I wasn't able to route in quite the same way.
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littlem4tt



Joined: Jun 30, 2013
Posts: 44
Location: uk

PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

For some reason my adsr only works correctly when i reverse the diode and the LED polarity, not sure why. Any ideas?
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joshs



Joined: Dec 05, 2014
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I finally got this circuit breadboarded and the answer is yes, you can get rid of the inverse and the LED and it still works fine. So now the question I'm faced with is... do I actually want to do that? There's something cool about having a bunch of blinking LEDs, but at the same time, removing them saves a lot of wiring and panel space. I also like the idea of trying to build a dual ADSR using one quad opamp. I'm also considering the idea of ditching the switches and instead having one configured in the fast setting and one configured as slow, saving further wiring and panel space. I hate external wiring Smile
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joshs



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Well, I got it all working, PCB, pots, and all that. Was working great until I wired it backward and let the magic smoke out... Uugh. I already tried replacing the IC's, that's not enough. Anybody out there got a suggestion on the most likely suspects to replace? Or best ways to try and debug? Is it better to start over at this point? What's most likely burned? Transistors? Diodes? Capacitors? I don't have fancy equipment, just a multimeter. I found when I was building the circuit testing transistors and diodes in circuit just doesn't seem to be very reliable...
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softfin



Joined: Oct 11, 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

If you have replaced the ICs, then proceed to replace the transistors. They get damaged easily when power is reversed.

If that doesn't help, replace diodes, caps and resistors, but these are usually the last ones to blow up. Caps and resistors usually have external signs when they are damaged. Also, if the diodes haven't blown up they probably work ok.
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