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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Lunettas - circuits inspired by Stanley Lunetta
"Little Gate" sequencer
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Paradigm X



Joined: Feb 15, 2011
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ooh, interesting, are you making any to sell? Im just looking for a gate sequencer as it happens.

Cheers
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jbeuckm



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

This seems like the perfect project for collaboration. I entered the schemo into Eagle and I'll try to make a one-sided layout for easy DIY. I uploaded the files to a git repo and it would be great for others to add their ideas.

https://github.com/jbeuckm/little_gate_sequencer


little_gate_sequencer.png
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little gate sequencer schematic
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jbeuckm



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I think this switch would be ideal -- it's a big, solid toggle that could be edge mounted and only take 8mm width. I'm looking for an Eagle library with this part...

http://www.jameco.com/1/1/1121-mts-102-c4-miniature-toggle-switch-contact-form-spst.html

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
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piedwagtail



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

That's an ON-ON switch.
The design was for ON-OFF-ON.
Loop-rest-gate, which is the brilliance of the idea, all on one control.

R

Last edited by piedwagtail on Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:18 am; edited 1 time in total
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jbeuckm



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ah ok now I get it - yes brilliant.

This?

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2182186_-1

Last edited by jbeuckm on Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:19 am; edited 1 time in total
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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

That's great! I am thinking of making some PCBs for it, so now I don't have to redraw the schematic in eagle myself Wink
Those would probably be double sided though (costs are the same if I have them made) and for DIY single sided is much
easier so it would be nice to have that option too.

Not sure about the switches, round is an advantage since it sucks to make square holes and I like the short levers,
but switches with some thread on it would make it possible to mount them to a panel without having to add some extra
mounting holes. Having them at and angle is also good to save panel space in case the PCB gets a bit large which can
easily happen with CMOS and a single sided PCB.

ow and I must have missed the nice PCBs piedwagtail made, those look great!

edit: ah those are ON-ON switches, yeah that doesn't work.

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piedwagtail



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I've had great difficulties sourcing the slide switches in any quantity.
It rather put me off offering them and as you say the panel hole is a much easier option to plan for.

Yes, those switches are the ones, from a quick glance.


R
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Paradigm X



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi

these on-off-on switches are used in a couple of oakley projects, and are very nice;

http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/1ms3t2b4m7re/switch-pcb-spdt-horiz/dp/9473300?ost=9473300&selectedCategoryId=
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jbeuckm



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I would also prefer threaded switches for panel mounting, but I haven't seen threaded vertical right angle under $6. I'm thinking I can get 10 of these with a threaded 3.5 jack on each end in the height of a euro panel. (The two jacks would hold the PCB)

clkIn-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-Out

Then a daughterboard with the other jack and switches...

onoffSw-loopSw-resetIn-shortlogSw

Last edited by jbeuckm on Thu Jan 14, 2016 11:10 am; edited 1 time in total
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piedwagtail



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here's my implementation.

It may encourage you to add leds.
I used a double pole switch so the gate on steps in red can be seen at a glance.
White is running.
Purple is sequencer output.

bugeyed smartphone!

R


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jbeuckm



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks - that is very attractive!
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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

That double LED feature is really nice Smile.
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piedwagtail



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Use a dpdt on-off-on, stick rail to centre and led plus resistance on gate position.
High brightness leds require 22k or so, the camera up close makes them look bright but it's soft enough.
You could do last step on the loop side but I felt the run leds return was sufficient for that.
Use bussed SIL networked resistors for your droppers. I used 9 way ten pin with an extra resistor for those reds. Saves pcb space.

Toggles are so expensive but the play against availability, price and panel problems with slides it's an annoying call. In the end, I didn't want to pay a >$ a switch; I felt multiple PHOBian Little Gate sequencers was the way to go.

R
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jbeuckm



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

This will probably work for that "special buy" Jameco toggle:


Screen Shot 2016-01-14 at 8.13.47 PM.png
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Jameco Vertical Right Angle On-Off-On Toggle
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Screen Shot 2016-01-14 at 8.13.47 PM.png


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AlanP



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Working on a gate sequencer layout myself at the moment, based on Fonik's Baby Ten -- mine has two parallel tracks, one with on-none-on switches (for gate on/off), and one with on-off-on, for gate on, gate off, and reset (saves bothering with a rotary, or patching a reset in, or similar.) The 4017 outputs have transistor buffers hanging off them for reinforcement.

Haven't submitted it for fab, yet. It's a two pcb set, due to the amount of stuff on the switch board.
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jbeuckm



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here is a whack at a one-sided layout with those toggles. It was a trick to get down to six jumpers...


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AlanP



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I don't etch, so I can get away with doublesided layouts Smile

The jacks are Clock In, Reset, Gate 1 Out, Short Gate 1 Out, Gate 2 Out, Short Gate 2 Out. Short in this case is the normal gate signal AND'ed with the clock. Oh, and the two odd looking pairs of pads are for normally open momentary pushbuttons for step and reset Smile

Still have to submit this for fab... I'm not entirely happy with the thin Reset bus, but can't see a good way around it at the moment.


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jbeuckm



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Works great. I like these switches quite a bit.


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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

looks good! Razz

Are the jacks in line with the switches ?

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AlanP



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

From the look of it they're a millimeter or two off.

Any reason why the wire jumpers are left long?

Other than that, looks like a useful module Smile
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piedwagtail



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I see the jacks as holding the pcb, the switches are threadless and would therefore poke out less. Nice idea.

but I'm confused by the output led being perpendicular which suggests a slim desktop enclosure with the unfitted step leds...except the eurorack power port is.... Smile

Internal wires I like to use screw terminals 3.81 or 5.08 to allow the pcb to be removed from a panel without having to desolder or de-attach everything. I blame Ken Stone for making me hate soldered up panels. Wink


R
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LFLab



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

piedwagtail wrote:
.... I blame Ken Stone for making me hate soldered up panels. Wink ...


+1, working on a version of the serge resonant eq with 9mm board mount Alpha potmeters Smile
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jbeuckm



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

When I took the picture, only the most necessary parts were installed to make sure the layout worked. Those long wires will be cut to connect the switches and I will desolder the output LED when I wire to the panel. I don't think the jacks and switches are colinear, no.

You can probably tell - I hate wiring Smile I wish there was a convenient way to layout LEDs so I didn't have 22+ wires on this thing Sad One thing I have done in the past is to keep legs long on a 3mm LED near the edge, then bend the legs and push the LED into a 1/8" hole in the panel.

Here is an idea to minimize LED wiring and keep the board one-sided: Move the LED holes under the switch bodies. Trim the LED legs to be long but the same length. Mount the switches first, then set the long-leg LEDs into the holes from the bottom so that the switch body holds them flush with the top of the PCB. Solder the LEDs onto the bottom and bend into holes in the panel. I might try that. But this thing is pretty expensive to build with all those switches!


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piedwagtail



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

If there's a problem with space under the switches, you can do away with holes and etch small pads as if the leds were SMT.
This is what I did for the first time with this design; there was too little space under the switches to have through holes and solder, so I placed a hole for one end of the 1n4148s and a pad at the other; worked fine.
Since the panel hole will hold the led body this is an option you have.

pioneering THSMT!

R
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jbeuckm



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

THSMT -- I like it! I'll try this soon.

An approximate measurement for the jacks vs switches:

erthenvar 3.5mm jack: center 5.5mm above PCB
jameco switch: center 6.2mm above PCB
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