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Uncle Krunkus
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Joined: Jul 11, 2005 Posts: 4761 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 5:09 am Post subject:
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Has anyone got any good suggestions for a front panel font?
My ASM2 is deep in design mode and I was wondering if anyone has any particular favourites. Any fonts which look really bad within a short time? The panel is going to be 430mm * 530mm (17" * 21") and will have a lot of text on it, so I want something that's gonna look good but also be easy on the eyes.
At the moment I'm thinking about "Exocet", it's kind of simple, gothic. _________________ What makes a space ours, is what we put there, and what we do there. |
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elektro80
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Joined: Mar 25, 2003 Posts: 21959 Location: Norway
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elektro80
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Uncle Krunkus
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Joined: Jul 11, 2005 Posts: 4761 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 5:42 am Post subject:
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I like isonorm, the helvetica one is a bit too conservative for me though. Thanks Stein. _________________ What makes a space ours, is what we put there, and what we do there. |
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elektro80
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Joined: Mar 25, 2003 Posts: 21959 Location: Norway
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 5:45 am Post subject:
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I like the ISONORM myself. It is kinda geeky and techie in a subtle and stylish way. Good choice.
The full name is FF Isonorm 3098 1.1 _________________ A Charity Pantomime in aid of Paranoid Schizophrenics descended into chaos yesterday when someone shouted, "He's behind you!"
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elektro80
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Joined: Mar 25, 2003 Posts: 21959 Location: Norway
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opg
Joined: Mar 29, 2004 Posts: 954 Location: Berkeley, CA, US
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 5:56 am Post subject:
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I guess this a good place to ask about panel labels. Is screenprinting the only way to get a non-sticker onto metal or plastic? I keep looking for these mythical things called "rub-on transfers." _________________ One Player Game | OPG on SoundCloud |
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elektro80
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Joined: Mar 25, 2003 Posts: 21959 Location: Norway
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Uncle Krunkus
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Joined: Jul 11, 2005 Posts: 4761 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 8:04 am Post subject:
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I did a bit of research the other day, and it seems that the old rub down lettering of the '80s is very hard to get these days. Probably has to do with the advent of these new fangled, so called, "computers". The other thing I heard was out there is inkjet water slide decal sheets. These are used alot by model makers, and could be good. But the surface needs to be sealed beforehand, and topcoated afterwards if you're going to get any wear out of it. The thing I'm looking into now is actually computerised laser engraving. This supposedly works for wood and acrylic (the two things I'd like to do front panels out of) but I'm assuming it could be quite expensive. I really want a solution which I'll be able to use at home, anytime, cheaply. I'll post any breakthroughs here. _________________ What makes a space ours, is what we put there, and what we do there. |
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opg
Joined: Mar 29, 2004 Posts: 954 Location: Berkeley, CA, US
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:36 am Post subject:
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Uncle Krunkus wrote: | I did a bit of research the other day, and it seems that the old rub down lettering of the '80s is very hard to get these days. |
From the one thing I've seen in an arts and crafts store, graphite paper was used. I'll check online to see what was used, even if you can't buy actual "kits" anymore.
I also like the idea of engraving. Perhaps a double-layer panel, where the bottom layer (the actual panel that the pots reside) is the color of the font you want. The top layer is thin and an opposite color of the bottom panel. You etch the labels in through the top layer, possibly with something as simple as a Dremel. The process could be like PCB copper lines, but without the acid. You could use a template, but that's getting just as close to and as complex as screenprinting. You avoid the paint, though. Just a spur-of-the-moment idea. _________________ One Player Game | OPG on SoundCloud |
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ian-s
Joined: Apr 01, 2004 Posts: 2670 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:00 pm Post subject:
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Century Gothic is very close to the Minimoog font. I still like it.
I think it is one of the standard windows ttf's |
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sneakthief
Joined: Jul 24, 2006 Posts: 569 Location: Berlin
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opg
Joined: Mar 29, 2004 Posts: 954 Location: Berkeley, CA, US
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 2:27 pm Post subject:
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Nice!
Thanks for the links!
I do have a silkscreen, but I've never used it before. My brother is the artist. It looks a bit easier than I thought.... _________________ One Player Game | OPG on SoundCloud |
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Uncle Krunkus
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Joined: Jul 11, 2005 Posts: 4761 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 4:09 pm Post subject:
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Yeah, thanks heaps.
Through one of those links I found an Australian distributer for Lazertran, which is what I wanted to try out next. _________________ What makes a space ours, is what we put there, and what we do there. |
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gmeredith
Joined: Jun 28, 2006 Posts: 82 Location: Tasmania, Australia
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 7:37 pm Post subject:
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Uncle Krunkus wrote:
Quote: | I did a bit of research the other day, and it seems that the old rub down lettering of the '80s is very hard to get these days
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That rub-on lettering is still around, by a company called Letraset:
http://www.letraset.com/shopdisplaycategories.asp?id=17&cat=Rub+Down+Lettering&ssctn=default
They look absolutely fantastic on front panels, because they look like they've been screen printed on. I've still got a couple of sheets left from the 80's in my office drawer!
Cheers, Graham |
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opg
Joined: Mar 29, 2004 Posts: 954 Location: Berkeley, CA, US
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Joel
Joined: Sep 12, 2006 Posts: 97 Location: London, UK
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Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 3:15 pm Post subject:
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Hi, thought I'd resurrect this thread as I wanted to ask about this Lazertran stuff. I've ordered a couple of blank 1U rack faceplates to build things into, and they're gloss black finish. Will Lazertran waterslide work on this, if I print in a fairly vibrant colour like bright red?
If not, any other suggestions?
Cheers, Joel |
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Uncle Krunkus
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Joined: Jul 11, 2005 Posts: 4761 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 3:56 pm Post subject:
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Yeah, I think it would work well. The only consideration is the "fixing" method. It will only be as durable as the lacquer you coat it with. Front panels for instruments such as we make don't actually need to be very durable as the switches and knobs are what is touched, but it would bite if a fingernail ripped through your artwork. I've only just started using this stuff, but I must say the front of the Sorcerer has turned out very durable. I gave it two coats of clear polyurethane, thinned with pure gum turpentine, and applied with a small foam roller. The polyurethane/turps mix fixes the Lazertran by melting the decal substrate. So when you put the first coat on, wet the whole surface gently, not too thick, and then don't mess with it until it's set.
There are lots of other methods for putting artwork on your front panels too. The thing I like about this stuff is I can use any graphic which can be manipulated on the computer, including photos, photoshop etc. and I can design something today, apply it tonight, and start dressing the panel tomorrow. (If I didn't have so many other things to do! )
Let me know how you go. _________________ What makes a space ours, is what we put there, and what we do there. |
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Mikmo
Joined: Dec 01, 2005 Posts: 150 Location: Copenhagen - Denmark
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