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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Lunettas - circuits inspired by Stanley Lunetta
3D printing Lunetta Stuff
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CreatorLes



Joined: Oct 05, 2014
Posts: 51
Location: San Antonio TX USA

PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:24 pm    Post subject: 3D printing Lunetta Stuff Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The image shown is a 3d print being prepared for slicing so that it can be 3D printed. My first attempts included so much detail that they didn't print right, so i added a blur of radius 2 pixels to this one. You lose some detail but it's far more printable and durable.

Also possible with 3D printing are knobs, labels, front/top panels, entire enclosures, artistic cases like dragons or skulls, busts of famous people, forms for making lunetta sculptures, and just a bunch of stuff!

Tonight I will attempt to print the attached image, let you know how it goes later.

Les


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CreatorLes



Joined: Oct 05, 2014
Posts: 51
Location: San Antonio TX USA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 1:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i am giving some thought to buying some copperFill filament which is 20% plastic and 80% copper. it's not conductive, but I would think if you buff it and etch it with tinnit or solder to it, it might conduct. This would allow us to make 3d printed circuit boards and 3d structures much like the Lunetta sculptures seen here before.

Les
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CreatorLes



Joined: Oct 05, 2014
Posts: 51
Location: San Antonio TX USA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

This is how the first print turned out, a bit rough but otherwise ok. A bath in acetone would smooth it out.

Les


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CreatorLes



Joined: Oct 05, 2014
Posts: 51
Location: San Antonio TX USA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

here is a better print, though the photo does not do it justice. I plan to put a circuit on the back using an ATtiny Arduino chip. Should be fun!

Les


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brock



Joined: May 26, 2011
Posts: 97
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey Les, welcome back.

Have you seen the "conductive" ABS filament? http://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament/Conductive-Filament-175mm-halfkg Available almost everywhere it seems.

Talking to a 3D printer manufacturer about it and he was very disappointed with it, says it is "not really conductive". I don't know if that is a comment on the 1200 ohm per cm spec, or just that he found it pretty useless for what he was trying to use it for.
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CreatorLes



Joined: Oct 05, 2014
Posts: 51
Location: San Antonio TX USA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yes brock, thanks for mentioning that. The conductive ABS is indeed what I plan to use. the 1200 Ohms/cm spec translates into resistance by multiplying the cross-sectional area divided by the length times 1200 Ohms/cm, where units of cm are used. So a 1cm cube of this stuff will be 1200 Ohms long.

If we use 0.05" traces which are appropriate for a 0.1" thru-hole spaced board, then a trace two inches long will be (3/(0.05*0.05))*1200 Ohms in Resistance, which is 1.44 MegOhms. If we make the long runs ten times wider that figure drops to 144 kOhms, which for a Lunetta is actually almost tolerable.

My plan is as follows. I will make a "one chip wonder" board which just has an ATtiny85 chip, a solar cell, and an audio jack on it. I'll use these resistive traces to make finger-activated pots, three of them, and use the two remaining digital pins as outputs driving stereo left and right.

That's it, three components plus the circuit board. I'll secure the parts with conductive epoxy and play it under light by moving my fingers on the pots.

The actual method of getting two materials on one board with only one extruder is a bit tricky but i think i can do it. The board can simulate Lunetta circuits or anything else that fits in program memory. It runs at 8MHz so there's bandwidth for the bit wigglers (delta modulators) at the stereo outputs.

I can also make the top of the board decorative. That makes a great little music maker, I hope!

Les
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CreatorLes



Joined: Oct 05, 2014
Posts: 51
Location: San Antonio TX USA

PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here is another technique I am working on, the Encased Wire approach. Shown is an 8 pin DIP chip with 8 wires connected to it.

Les


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nathanxl



Joined: Apr 24, 2012
Posts: 77
Location: Wa

PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 2:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Some great Ideas here.
Im particularly interested in how you got on with the encased wiring and chip...

Hours of fun there.

Here is some stuff Ive doen a while ago.
Little holders for motors and solenoids for my Genottonix briefcase Lunetta string synth. Ive done some knobs aswell.


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commathe



Joined: Jul 26, 2013
Posts: 144
Location: Beijing
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

nathanxl wrote:
Some great Ideas here.
Im particularly interested in how you got on with the encased wiring and chip...

Hours of fun there.

Here is some stuff Ive doen a while ago.
Little holders for motors and solenoids for my Genottonix briefcase Lunetta string synth. Ive done some knobs aswell.
I've been trying to hunt you down to ask you how you made that? What motors/solenoids do you use? How are the strings hit? I watched your youtube videos about 100 times each
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nathanxl



Joined: Apr 24, 2012
Posts: 77
Location: Wa

PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I designed the supports in Sketchup.

I screw the motor to the solid horizontal bar and the pull solenoid to the bracketed support.
The motor and solenoid are both rated to 6VDC and are fed triggers from a CGS style Gate to Trigger circuit. The solenoids are optoisolated but there is still noise when they are operating because the case is tightly packed with wiring everywhere.
The motors spin and pluck the string with a gaffer tape plectrum. The solenoids mute the string.

Glad you like the videos.
Im playing the GenOttonix this weekend with Justice Yeldham...
Gonna be chaos.


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commathe



Joined: Jul 26, 2013
Posts: 144
Location: Beijing
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

What kind of motors are you using? Stepper motors? Those solenoids look way smaller than anything I've managed to find!
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nathanxl



Joined: Apr 24, 2012
Posts: 77
Location: Wa

PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Just regular motors. Not steppers.

Sparkfun sell similar sized solenoids.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11015

I buy all my stuff from a surplus store called Digit in Osaka. Its heaven and I travel there whenever I can.
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