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Wogglebug circuit
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Ilanode



Joined: Sep 14, 2007
Posts: 80
Location: Berlin/FRG

PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks for your reply! Very Happy However each IC seems to be powered correctly. So I'm still at a loss that's why I wrote down my measurements for each and every pin and have put tehm hopefully in an easily readable form below. Any hint where to investigate this issue further?

U1 (CD4046BE)
Pin 1 = 0V; Pin 2 = -15V; Pin 3 = -15V; Pin 4 = -15V; Pin 5 0V; Pin 6 = 0V; Pin 7 = 0V; Pin 8 0V; Pin 9 = 0,1V; Pin 10 = 0V; Pin 11 = 0V; Pin 12 = 0V; Pin 13 = 0V; Pin 14 = -15V; Pin 15 = 0V; Pin 16 = 15V.

U2 (CD4046BE)
Pin 1 = 0V; Pin 2 = 0V; Pin 3 = -15V; Pin 4 = 0V; Pin 5 = 0V; Pin 6 = 0V; Pin 7 = 0V; Pin 8 = 0V; Pin 9 = 0,1V; Pin 10 = 0V; Pin 11 = 0V; Pin 12 = 0V; Pin 13 = 0V; Pin 14 = -15V; Pin 15 = 0V; Pin 16 = 15V.


U3 (LF398)
Pin 1 = 15V; Pin 2 = 0V; Pin 3 = 0V; Pin 4 = -15V; Pin 5 = 0V; Pin 6 = 0V; Pin 7 = 0V; Pin 8 = 0V.

U4 (LMC555)
Pin 1 = 0V; Pin 2 = 3,3V; Pin 3 = 6,3V; Pin 4 = 15V; Pin 5 = 0V; Pin 6 = 3,3V; Pin 7 = 3,3V; Pin 8 = 15V.

U5 (TL072)
Pin 1 = 0V; Pin 2 = 0V; Pin 3 = 0V; Pin 4 = -15V; Pin 5 = 0V; Pin 6 = 0V; Pin 7 = 0V; Pin 8 = 15V.

U6 (TL072)
Pin 1 = 0V; Pin 2 = 0V; Pin 3 = 9V; Pin 4 = -15V; Pin 5 = -5,5V; Pin 6 = 9V; Pin 7 = 0V; Pin 8 = 15V.

U7 (TL074)
Pin 1 = 0V; Pin 2 = 0V; Pin 3 = -15V; Pin 4 = 15V; Pin 5 = -15V; Pin 6 = 0V; Pin 7 = 0V; Pin 8 = 0V; Pin 9 = 0V; Pin 10 = -15V; Pin 11 = -15V; Pin 12 = 0V; Pin 13 = 0V; Pin 14 = 0V.
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Peake



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
Posts: 1112
Location: Loss Angeles
Audio files: 3

PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

If you're only getting constant, unchanging voltages out of the 555, your problem may be there, or right around it.
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Ilanode



Joined: Sep 14, 2007
Posts: 80
Location: Berlin/FRG

PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks! Yes, I've an eye on the 555 esp. since there's constantly 15V at pin 4 which is the reset input. However, since *the* DIY-rule is 'Take your time' I'll investigate on this at the weekend.
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funkyfarm



Joined: Jan 21, 2007
Posts: 583
Location: France
Audio files: 3

PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi

does all the potentiometers have to be linear ?

edit : Yes ! (lucky you !)

Last edited by funkyfarm on Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:56 am; edited 1 time in total
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coombster



Joined: Apr 22, 2008
Posts: 5
Location: Bristol, UK

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

mistercooper wrote:
heres what ive gathered about parts selection from that txt file and posts here. see any errors?

4x 1N4148

14x 100nf [1206 smd]
2x 47nf [poly-film]
2x 10uf [electro]
1x 2.2uf [electro]
1x 3.3uf [bi-pol electro]
1x 1nf [poly-film]
1x 10nf [poly-film]
1x 2.2nf [poly-film]

9x or 10 jacks
2x ferrite bead
1x 4P-POWER

2x BC550
1x BC560

2x 4046
2x TL072
1x LF398
1x LM555N
1x TL074
1x VTL5C3
1x VTL5C3/2

pots
3x 1M
2x 100K
1x 50K

resistors
8x 1K
8x 100K
6x 10K
5x 49.9K
3x 1M
2x 20K
1x 1.2K
1x 10M
1x 150K
1x 15K
1x 1.8K
1x 330K
1x 4.7K
1x 470R
1x 82K

2x LNK




Hey guys. although i'm quit unexperienced with all of this, i've decided to give this a try as my first build.
i just wanted to know if this list is indeed everything needed (apart from everything which goes on the face plate such potentiometers, etc... ?)

i also wanted to know how do i connect the module to my doepfer eurorack ? there aren't such things as 4pin to 16 ribbon cables are there ?

finally, anybody with a solution for a faceplate ? i know there's been some talk on this thread, but the euro related solutions have been cut...

i appreciate your help
Will
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 459
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

There are 2 1uf electro caps missing from that list.

I've got a parts list with mouser part numbers in excel format if that'll help. I haven't posted it here (or anywhere) pending final completion of bug #1 here. Let me know if there's any interest in that. Still waiting for my panel - scheduled to arrive tomorrow.

Dunno about the euro adaptor - but there's a way, I've seen it done.
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coombster



Joined: Apr 22, 2008
Posts: 5
Location: Bristol, UK

PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sduck wrote:
There are 2 1uf electro caps missing from that list.

I've got a parts list with mouser part numbers in excel format if that'll help. I haven't posted it here (or anywhere) pending final completion of bug #1 here. Let me know if there's any interest in that. Still waiting for my panel - scheduled to arrive tomorrow.

Dunno about the euro adaptor - but there's a way, I've seen it done.


yeah i would be really interested in both your excel file and the also how you got a panel done. that would be awesome thanks !

ps: about mouser, do they ship to the uk ?
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 459
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here's the bom, sort of - I just noticed that I never added the resistor numbers- but they're pretty easy to figure out. I don't know if mouser ships to the UK, or if that's the best way to get this stuff - perhaps someone else will know.

I used front panel express in Seattle to make a front panel - did a budget panel, still cost about 60$ including shipping. It's motm format, so it's not much use for you, and I won't post the fpd unless anyone else wants it. It's in the modularsynthpanels yahoo group if anyone really needs it.

Edit - woops, don't use the old file I posted - booboos on both opamps. I'll replace it with a new corrected one shortly if you see a file here, it's the fixed one. FWIW, I finished bug #1 tonight and it works 100%, and is extremely cool!


wogglebug parts.xls
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Download
 Filename:  wogglebug parts.xls
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Last edited by sduck on Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:35 pm; edited 2 times in total
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6079smith



Joined: Jan 18, 2007
Posts: 95
Location: Mark of the Dane
Audio files: 4

PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

coombster wrote:
ps: about mouser, do they ship to the uk ?


Yep, Mouser will ship to Europe all right. I've got a fair amount of stuff from them over the years. They sell pretty cheap, and the US dollar is at what it's at right now, so on paper it looks like a good bargain. In reality though, their shipping is fairly steep and customs are sharp about packages from America - so it mightn't be worth it in the long run. I've found that orders around $50 to be the golden mean; not enough for customs to be interested and not enough for large shipping prices. Having said that, I've been taxed on at least one order for less. I think it's just pot luck sometimes. Is there a specific component you can't find? Have you tried Farnell or Maplins?

QUICK EDIT: I just read your previous post, I see it's your first build. Good luck with it.
Pretty much everything on the BOM is run of the mill stuff - with the exception of the VTL5C's (vactrols), to a lesser extent the SMD capacitors and to an even lesser extent the 3.3 uF bipolar capacitor. If you have a local electronics shop they should have everything else. No need to be ordering from America, really. I've gotten vactrols from Banzai; a little pricey perhaps, but it's a specialized component, and the postage is minimal. Most of the rest should be available locally or at least from the above sources... hope this helps a bit. Someone else from the UK might jump in and point you in the right direction.
As for the power, you *could* just solder three wires from the power distribution board to the module...
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coombster



Joined: Apr 22, 2008
Posts: 5
Location: Bristol, UK

PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 2:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

6079smith wrote:
Is there a specific component you can't find? Have you tried Farnell or Maplins?


thanks for your help, i've now got a big array of options which is definitely what i was looking for.
To answer your question, i am indeed thinking of going to my nearest maplins, i was simply looking around to see if there was a place that would have everything, to make things more simple...
it seems i've got it sorted on finding the components, its now just a question of getting the right ones and not messing up...

as of now, i've not actually purchased anything yet, because i've decided from experience, to first make sure i can get everything, evaluate the total price, add an 'unexpected costs margin' and then go for it.
being a student i just have to make sure this is actually possible money wise, and also it seems you can't do something properly if you rely on getting the rest while making it.

as for the circuit itself, it seems pretty straight forward (i'll probably strangle myself later for saying that), as long as i respect the polarity, place the components in the right place, and check with a volt meter that the current is going through, i should be fine...
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CJ Miller



Joined: Jan 07, 2007
Posts: 368
Location: 127.0.0.1

PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:07 am    Post subject: 3.3uF electrolytics? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Does anybody have a source for these 3.3uF non-polarized electrolytics? I didn't expect them to be a problem, but I can't find them anywhere! I guess they don't need to be electros, if there are boxed film caps which might fit. Where did you people get yours?

Everything else is in place now. The SMT caps I bought were a little too small, but they just barely fit. Also I used 35v tantalums instead of electrolytics. Almost done!

Thanks to all involved!
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asafnetzer



Joined: Jun 16, 2007
Posts: 112
Location: Israel

PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:19 am    Post subject: Re: 3.3uF electrolytics? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

CJ Miller wrote:
Does anybody have a source for these 3.3uF non-polarized electrolytics? I didn't expect them to be a problem, but I can't find them anywhere!

Been meaning to ask the same question.
I have a stock of 2.2uF NP electrolytics, would it be possible to use them ?

Asaf
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neandrewthal



Joined: May 11, 2007
Posts: 672
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 8:16 am    Post subject: Re: 3.3uF electrolytics? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

CJ Miller wrote:
Does anybody have a source for these 3.3uF non-polarized electrolytics?


I bought mine from small bear.

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bugfight



Joined: Aug 02, 2007
Posts: 188
Location: Arlington, TX USA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchResultView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&searchType=k&searchValue=3.3%20uf%20np&categoryId=203055&rscount=4
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 459
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:13 am    Post subject: Re: 3.3uF electrolytics? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

CJ Miller wrote:
Does anybody have a source for these 3.3uF non-polarized electrolytics? I didn't expect them to be a problem, but I can't find them anywhere! I


Is mouser out of them? The part number for mouser is in that BOM I posted, and I've also gottne non-polar electros from digikey.
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CJ Miller



Joined: Jan 07, 2007
Posts: 368
Location: 127.0.0.1

PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks for the replies! I did web searches at Mouser and Digi-key which didn't show anything, but I know that those don't always include all of the details. I'll find my BOM and try the part numbers.

I was checking out Dr Mabuse's Wogglebug mods at the Wiard group on Yahoo, some neat ideas there.
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toppobrillo



Joined: Dec 10, 2005
Posts: 766
Location: oakland, ca
G2 patch files: 1

PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i'm not sure what the application is here, but you could get really close with 2 6.8uF in series: - to - this is a bipolar arrangement with a value of 3.4uF.

josh
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sneakthief



Joined: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 569
Location: Berlin

PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I finally built a couple of these - one works perfectly, but the other one's 555 is too fast and the speed range is too narrow ...between ~80-160Hz.

However, the 555 on the good one goes from ~0.01-100Hz.


Checklist:

- both have the identical 1% resistors
- no solder bridges
- I swapped 555's and it made no difference
- I tried swapping the BC560 and it didn't make a difference

Is it worth swapping the BC550's? That's the only thing I haven't tried.


Notes
Here are the voltages I'm getting at the +/- terminals on the LED side of the Vactrols:


(Rate Pot CCW / CW)


- Good Wogglebug:


12.8V / 15.6V
12.9V / 15.6V


- Bad Wogglebug

16.9V / 17.2V
15.3V / 15.4V

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horchacha



Joined: Sep 05, 2007
Posts: 8
Location: tucson, az

PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

now that i have the great #3 wogglebug pcb on a nice bridechamber panel - is there some smaller 'blue lodge' type order for half ass wogglebug owners?


dave
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 459
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

If you use the BOM I posted earlier, and sub alpha pots, it'll make a huge difference in the price. Not much you can do about the vactrols and that one ic - but together from allied they were still less than 10$. Also bridechamber sells jacks that are almost identical to the switchcraft ones at a much lower cost - try those.
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funkyfarm



Joined: Jan 21, 2007
Posts: 583
Location: France
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

For WB panel, i'll go for something like that, although i'm not sure i've understood everything Cool
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funkyfarm



Joined: Jan 21, 2007
Posts: 583
Location: France
Audio files: 3

PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

YOU UNDERSTAND NOTHING !

I guess I've mixed up our project and "Richard Brewster’s Synthesizer » DIY Wiard Wogglebug"

Doesn't anyone put the STEP input on panel ?
with a suitable resistor set or input buffer

and the two red LED (NE555 internal lfo and CLOCK IN monitoring) ?
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stolenfat



Joined: Apr 17, 2008
Posts: 476
Location: Sunny Oakland California
Audio files: 1

PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hey, i've been very interested in a woogle bug unit ever since i saw it in action on youtube.

I've seen pcb designs for it, but i have not attempted to make my own pcbs yet, dont really have the space for a chemical lab right now

so i wanted to know if theres a good resource on the circuit, listing parts, and maybe a link that would sell me a printed pcb? or maybe one of you experts could do it for me and i'd pay ya for the costs.

To be honest, i did not look through all 11 pages of this thread, only about 5, and most the links i found were broken, so i might have missed exactly what im asking about, but thought maybe i'd ask anyways.
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julianw



Joined: Jul 30, 2007
Posts: 78
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

stolenfat wrote:
i wanted to know if theres a good resource on the circuit, listing parts, and maybe a link that would sell me a printed pcb?


Look here or here
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Luka



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
Posts: 1003
Location: Melb.

PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

funkyfarm wrote:
YOU UNDERSTAND NOTHING !

I guess I've mixed up our project and "Richard Brewster’s Synthesizer » DIY Wiard Wogglebug"

Doesn't anyone put the STEP input on panel ?
with a suitable resistor set or input buffer

and the two red LED (NE555 internal lfo and CLOCK IN monitoring) ?


hey funky
im designing my panel at the moment and didn't include step in
to be honest i missed that option completely
the only thing im adding is the disturb input as i have had some people tell me i it is very useful.
ill post some designs once i finalise

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