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Problem with pots for DR-110 mod
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Leviathant



Joined: Nov 13, 2008
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:38 am    Post subject: Re: Problem with pots for DR-110 mod
Subject description: warning: may contain newbie questions
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neandrewthal wrote:


http://www.theninhotline.net/dr110/110mods.html


Oh hey. Glad I tracked this thread down, I didn't realize the Resonant Frequency site had gone down, that's a real shame. I'll try and get a mirror of the pages online, ENORMOUS thanks to Sebo for saving that information.

Though I haven't owned a DR-110 in almost a decade now (yeesh) I'm still keen on keeping this site running. If you guys have any suggestions for other things I might be able to add, please don't hesitate to email me, leviathant@gmail.com
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bassmosphere



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 11:12 am    Post subject:  Re: Adding Drum Triggers
Subject description: There is information on adding triggers, but I just want to be sure it's done correctly.
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Quote:

This conditioned trigger can then be sent (maybe after a current-limiting resistor) to the base of a common NPN transistor. The collector and emitter of the NPN should be connecting across the "2 points" (which you found earlier) that fire a voice.


Hot dayum, it works! I noticed that w/out the transistor, I can still trigger the voice but it triggers once I take my hand off the key. Anyone care to give a quick explanation?

Also, for the MIDI-to-trigger I am using a highly-liquid MD24. I'd like to power the MD24 of off the DR-110. What I did was run wires from the 9V jack on the DR-110 to the inputs on the MD24. The MD24 works as expected, but when I trigger a voice on the DR-110, the DR-110 kinda freaks out. There is a buzzing sound and then I have to cycle the power before I can make the voices on the dr-110 sound as usual.
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi, since this seems to be the most active DR110 thread, I thought I'd post here and hopefully someone out there might be able to solve my dilemma: My DR110 won't start!? doh

I bought it from ebay (described as working), but the unit is clearly faulty. Despite this, the guy is not taking it back, so I am left to sort out the problem myself. Everything works on it, except the sequencer refuses to play. I have replaced IC2 with an identical chip M4069UBP, since this seems to be its clock source, but the fault still remains, and I'm clueless as to where to go from here.

I made a short video for my DR55 rimshot clone, but also described the problem with the drum machine. Maybe someone can help out here?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4H0fAgsQgTM&fmt=18

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andrewF



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

seeing the sequencer /pattern chip appears to work, perhaps the problem is simply the 'start' button?

check your PMs
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

It's not the button, that was the first thing I checked. I don't have a clue where to look next?
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CJ Miller



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

LektroiD wrote:
It's not the button, that was the first thing I checked. I don't have a clue where to look next?


I'd check the interconnect cable between the digital and analog PCBs.

I bought my most recent DR-110 from somebody off eBay a few years ago, and it hardly worked when I got it. I had to clean "battery juice" off of the voice pcb, repair a few corroded traces, and solder in a few electrolytic caps which had come loose. It was not plug and play!

I have done the ResFreq mods also, though I changed resistor values around. It sounds great. Eventually I gave up because I was trying to fit too much stuff in that little case. Better option is to re-case the 110, or just bolt it onto a bigger enclosure for everything else.

Good luck with the repairs!
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

CJ Miller wrote:
LektroiD wrote:
It's not the button, that was the first thing I checked. I don't have a clue where to look next?


I'd check the interconnect cable between the digital and analog PCBs.


Done

Quote:
I bought my most recent DR-110 from somebody off eBay a few years ago, and it hardly worked when I got it. I had to clean "battery juice" off of the voice pcb, repair a few corroded traces, and solder in a few electrolytic caps which had come loose. It was not plug and play!


this board is clean, like new

Quote:
I have done the ResFreq mods also, though I changed resistor values around. It sounds great. Eventually I gave up because I was trying to fit too much stuff in that little case. Better option is to re-case the 110, or just bolt it onto a bigger enclosure for everything else.


I have many plans for this, once I get the sequencer to start up.

Quote:
Good luck with the repairs!


thanks, I think I'll need all the luck I can get, this is looking like a hard to find little pest

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funkyfarm



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi !

so what are the cool mods for this beast ?

a sync input (i've backupped REsoFreq pages...http://sslstudiodesign.free.fr/110/)

Anyone has individual INPUT triggers (on jack socket) ; need 6 trannies ?
Some would die for VOLUME pots on each part.

there will be nothing under cv, right ?

At least, I don't understand how many pots are involved for SN mod.
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Another discovery with the fault, is everything works as normal, until you press the play button; which appears to do nothing - except disable the shift funtion! Basically the shift function works, until the play button has been pressed. However, when you press 'Stop', the shift function becomes available again; therefore I would assume it thinks it is engaged in play mode, it just doesn't have the clock signal going to the sequencer, perhaps? I'm now wondering what clocks the sequencer (or at least activates the clock to the sequencer)?

Incidentally, I changed IC2 on the analog board, Not IC2 on the logic board (A bit confusing when you have the same numeration on components within the one device)!

I will soon move on to plan B: implementing the DR110 as a sound module, triggered by the TR606/808 mod on my Kenton Pro 2. Which then poses the next question; are these standard trigger outputs on the Kenton?

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creekree



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

funkyfarm wrote:


Anyone has individual INPUT triggers (on jack socket) ; need 6 trannies ?
Some would die for VOLUME pots on each part.



yes, the moog v-trigger to s-trigger converter circuit
will work here,since the 110 voices are triggered by shorting their trigger inputs to ground.
you'll lose the clap, though. it needs a trigger burst on one iput and an additional trigger signal on a second input. i am currently working on a simplified ken stone burst generator to solve this problem, but please bear with me.

individual volume pots are possible, just not for EACH voice.
(CH / OH / CY will have to share one common volume control, but that is only a minor nuisance)

i might be talked into making a writeup on how to add individual volume controls... i just dont have the time right now.
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creekree



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

LektroiD wrote:
I'm now wondering what clocks the sequencer (or at least activates the clock to the sequencer)?


make sure that lines 1 and 4 on the ribbon cable are ok / have good solder joints.
these are the clock lines - the clock sources are on the analog board.
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

creekree wrote:
LektroiD wrote:
I'm now wondering what clocks the sequencer (or at least activates the clock to the sequencer)?


make sure that lines 1 and 4 on the ribbon cable are ok / have good solder joints.
these are the clock lines - the clock sources are on the analog board.


I checked them all for continuity, from the furthest points on each board, they seem sound.

I tested pin 1 and 4 on the scope:
* pin 1 gives the waveform below (whether play is engaged or not) - adjusting the DR110 tempo does not affect the frequency or amplitude of this readout.
* pin 4 gives flatline (whether play is engaged or not)


Pin1.jpg
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Pin1.jpg



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creekree



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

LektroiD wrote:
* pin 4 gives flatline (whether play is engaged or not)


hm... i am inclined to think that this cant be good... there should be oscillation on pin 8 of IC2 (that is line 4 on the ribbon cable).

use a wire and connect IC2 pin 8 with the middle lug of VR2 (the balance pot) "circuit bender style". *
you should hear a high-pitched tone that changes when you turn the tempo pot.
if not, your tempo clock is not clocking any tempo and thus does not qualify as a tempo clock.


you mentioned that you swapped IC2 - so you should have a spare one.
breadboard the "Tempo clock" section (in the upper left of the analog board schematics) and see if you can get it to work.


*WATCH YOUR SPEAKERS!
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

creekree wrote:
LektroiD wrote:
* pin 4 gives flatline (whether play is engaged or not)


hm... i am inclined to think that this cant be good... there should be oscillation on pin 8 of IC2 (that is line 4 on the ribbon cable).

use a wire and connect IC2 pin 8 with the middle lug of VR2 (the balance pot) "circuit bender style". *
you should hear a high-pitched tone that changes when you turn the tempo pot.
if not, your tempo clock is not clocking any tempo and thus does not qualify as a tempo clock.

my tempo clock does not qualify as a tempo clock!

There is no sound happening there, with either chip (I have a habit of socketing any chips I change, so this was easy).


Quote:
you mentioned that you swapped IC2 - so you should have a spare one.
breadboard the "Tempo clock" section (in the upper left of the analog board schematics) and see if you can get it to work.

I'll do that, I tested the chip for voltage, and there is just over +5V going to it, so that's ok. Pins 4 & 6 are clocking something.

Quote:
*WATCH YOUR SPEAKERS!

*I did, but still couldn't hear anything! Wink

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creekree



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i think you're onto something here.

since there are so few components involved in the tempo clock circuit, i'd hazard a guess that the pot might be the problem - it's sticking outside of the case, so if the unit was dropped / stepped on / whatever, the solder joints might have come loose. check that.
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CJ Miller



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Another thing to check is the external sync stuff:

1. Does feeding pulses into the sync jack advance the step clock? (it's 12 ppqn)

2. IIRC the sync jack has a switch which disconnects the internal clock when a plug is inserted.

>EDIT< ok, just saw posts above about tempo clock
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

creekree wrote:
i think you're onto something here.

since there are so few components involved in the tempo clock circuit, i'd hazard a guess that the pot might be the problem - it's sticking outside of the case, so if the unit was dropped / stepped on / whatever, the solder joints might have come loose. check that.


The pot checks out fine. I've been over it with a jewelers' magnifying glass, the whole circuit looks immaculate, like new.. Confused

CJ Miller wrote:
Another thing to check is the external sync stuff:

1. Does feeding pulses into the sync jack advance the step clock? (it's 12 ppqn)

2. IIRC the sync jack has a switch which disconnects the internal clock when a plug is inserted.

>EDIT< ok, just saw posts above about tempo clock


I don't think I have anything external that I could clock it with. I wonder if it would be possible to make a clock generator on the Nord G2 and use that?

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CJ Miller



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 4:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

LektroiD wrote:
I don't think I have anything external that I could clock it with. I wonder if it would be possible to make a clock generator on the Nord G2 and use that?


The G2 might work, but I'd guess that the level is more like 1 Volt. We're probably looking for something more like 5 Volts. Anything you can make narrow pulses with should work. Like 40106 Schmitt triggers, or a 555 timer chip. For triggering a drum hit one can usually use a messy pulse, but since this is a digital timing pulse it needs to be clean and square. You can likely find hundreds of simple pulse oscillator schematics out there, you can probably make such a circuit for a dollar or two.

Safest bet is to power such a thing off of the DR110 itself so you don't risk the clock being too low or too hot.
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I managed to grab another DR110 from ebay at the weekend, so when that arrives, I'll hopefully be able to do some comparisons with the scope and see which parts of the circuit should be doing what, tap into the working clock etc. Provided I don't end up with another duff one.

If I get them both running, I'll bend one and keep the other straight.

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CJ Miller



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

LektroiD wrote:
I managed to grab another DR110 from ebay at the weekend, so when that arrives, I'll hopefully be able to do some comparisons with the scope and see which parts of the circuit should be doing what, tap into the working clock etc. Provided I don't end up with another duff one.

If I get them both running, I'll bend one and keep the other straight.


Excellent, one can't have too many DR110s!
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dar303



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 2:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi, a bit late but maybe I can help some.
I made a deal with a guy that had tried to mod two DR110's but failed.
They were both non-working in different ways, one of them similar to the one above (play didn't work) and the other had no tempo clock and was badly soldered with a 100W iron!
I used my own working DR110 and the schematics to sort them out and managed to fix both (got one as payment!)

Bot had some of the flat cable connectors broken so I replaced all of that junk with flexible ordinary connection wire. Check IC3 on CPU board if the buttons misbehave and also trace the signal from IC2/tempo on voice board all the way to IC3 on the CPU board as already suggested in this thread.
Also chek for microscopic cracks around the button traces and other stuff on CPU board, I found some there.

Hope this helps.
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ganjatron



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 11:55 am    Post subject: Anyone want to mod my Dr-110? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

So the local analog repair shop is telling me that it'll cost me $500 to do a full mod of this little beauty. I would do it myself, but I'll just end up with several new scars and a non-working DR-110... Anybody on here able to do it for less?
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 12:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Anyone want to mod my Dr-110? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ganjatron wrote:
So the local analog repair shop is telling me that it'll cost me $500 to do a full mod of this little beauty. I would do it myself, but I'll just end up with several new scars and a non-working DR-110... Anybody on here able to do it for less?


What did the mod include?

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ganjatron



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

midi, 12 pots, and individual outs on a breakout box.
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

It could be done a lot cheaper if you did it yourself, I think a good wedge of that fee is for their time (it's no 5 minute job). You have to ask yourself what you could buy for the same price.
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