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POLIVOKS VCF SIMPLE SCHEMATIC LAYOUT
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haxster



Joined: Feb 01, 2006
Posts: 244
Location: MONTEREY PARK, CA 91754
G2 patch files: 2

PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 2:23 am    Post subject: POLIVOKS VCF SIMPLE SCHEMATIC LAYOUT Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

HERE'S A SIMPLE SCHEMATIC VIEW FOR ANYONE TRYING TO PROTOBOARD IT. IT HAS THE MODS FROM THIS SITE INCLUDED TOO.
IT ALSO HAS AN OFFSET MOD I DID ALSO.
I BUILT ONE A WHILE BACK AND VERIFIED THE MODS WORKING. IT WAS TESTING ON 12V ONLY.

http://www.synthnoise.com/polivoks.html

I AM GOING TO SOON TEST IT OUT BY BUILDING ONE FOLLOWING MY OWN DRAWING. I WILL SEE IF I DID ERROR'S.

(THIS DRAWING IS OLD, I HAVE AN UPDATED FIXED SCHEMATIC 2009)


polivoks_vcf_simple(flat).png
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Last edited by haxster on Thu Jan 22, 2009 3:53 am; edited 1 time in total
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Fernando



Joined: Dec 30, 2006
Posts: 207
Location: Barcelona, Spain

PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks a million!

I guess it needs decoupling at the power input for the board (ferrite bead + 10uF + 100n) ?
Does Marc's board has decoupling caps for any of the chips?

Guys, remember that the Motorola version is not difficult to find and it's very cheap: MC1776
Here is a list of equivalents to the original K140UD12 (russian):
uA776
MC1776
LM776
LM4250 (NJR4250 seems to be an eq. too)
NTE888M
(The ICL8021 appears as equivalent too. It's different from th eothers but might worth further experiments)

Marc Bareille's page has good info too:
http://m.bareille.free.fr/modular1/vcf_polivoks/vcf_polivoks.htm

.

Last edited by Fernando on Sat Jan 19, 2008 5:45 pm; edited 7 times in total
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bubblechamber



Joined: Nov 04, 2006
Posts: 276
Location: NYC
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

thanks a lot for this...
David
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haxster



Joined: Feb 01, 2006
Posts: 244
Location: MONTEREY PARK, CA 91754
G2 patch files: 2

PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 12:30 am    Post subject: FIrst graphic error found. Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I forgot to label a resistor coming off U3 LM4250, it is supposed to be R15 1k resistor value. I have assembled one on protoboard, it took about 40min and not bad at all as far as wire jumpering. I used this protoboard:

http://futurlec.com/ProtoBoards.shtml

board: Prototyping Board - 777

I have found these to have some of the best board layouts, the rails were nicely thought out.

I still have to test it out. I only soldered it together today.
Once I am all done I am going to post the formula on what to buy and how i went about it so you can easyly build one. This is one of the easiest circuits so far that really kicks ass! considering the amount of components.
I say the hardest part of the project for a builder is figuring out how your going to supply the dual +/- voltages to power it up. I have that covered by the way.
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haxster



Joined: Feb 01, 2006
Posts: 244
Location: MONTEREY PARK, CA 91754
G2 patch files: 2

PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

All the resistor values were intended for use with a LM4250 by the way. I live in california and those OG UA776 or MC1476's are no where to be found out here. If your going to use those you have to change R10, R11 to 110k.
This circuit is so easy to build i say build both versions! If you have that luxur y of finding those dam IC's of course.
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Etaoin



Joined: Jun 30, 2005
Posts: 760
Location: Utrecht, NL

PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Fernando wrote:
Guys, remember that the Motorola version is not difficult to find and it's very cheap: MC1776


Is it? I can't seem to find it anywhere.

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bubblechamber



Joined: Nov 04, 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 12:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I found a source for 2 of the 3 Russian components for this and they are cheap. the one missing is the Russian version of the 776(naturally)

KR140UD8B and KT315G

http://www.evita.lt/det-6599-mikroschema-kr140ud8b.html

I'd be willing to buy a bunch if anyone else is interested...

David
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haxster



Joined: Feb 01, 2006
Posts: 244
Location: MONTEREY PARK, CA 91754
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey Etaoin,

I saw that you built a 16 step MFOS seq, did you have to modify it to get it to work correctly? I have the boards and haven't built it yet.

I hope all you had to do is build it stock.

You NL's have it made by the way. I love your country's laws and liberties. I'll trade you some CALI sunshine for some of your freedoms. LOL.
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Etaoin



Joined: Jun 30, 2005
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Location: Utrecht, NL

PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Haxter,
My MFOS Seq is unmodified, other than the mods I introduced myself. I'm using a second analog board and did away with the fine tune controls to create two 16 step tracks. I'm using it with a quantizer so no need for the fine tune pots.

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Fernando



Joined: Dec 30, 2006
Posts: 207
Location: Barcelona, Spain

PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 3:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Etaoin wrote:
Fernando wrote:
Guys, remember that the Motorola version is not difficult to find and it's very cheap: MC1776


Is it? I can't seem to find it anywhere.


I found it in one of my local shops in Barcelona so assumed it was easy to find... sorry. I just wanted to show five different chips that work so one can find one or another
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austrohungaro



Joined: Dec 23, 2006
Posts: 42
Location: Barcelona (Spain)
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 4:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Fernando wrote:
I found it in one of my local shops in Barcelona so assumed it was easy to find...


Hola Fernando

I'd like to know which are the best local shops here in Barcelona.
Not only for chips. I need to buy cable right now.

Gracias

Genís
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haxster



Joined: Feb 01, 2006
Posts: 244
Location: MONTEREY PARK, CA 91754
G2 patch files: 2

PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Fernando you should buy all the stock off that shop and sell them on ebay or to us.

I'm gonna try to test my protoboard this weekend, probably sunday.
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Fernando



Joined: Dec 30, 2006
Posts: 207
Location: Barcelona, Spain

PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

haxster wrote:
Fernando you should buy all the stock off that shop and sell them on ebay or to us.

I hope I will never be forced by missfortune to do that (Jane Austen atmo adequate here)

BTW, Mouser has the NTE888 iirc and the 4250 is pretty easy to find too (DigiKey for instance)
.

Last edited by Fernando on Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:34 am; edited 3 times in total
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Etaoin



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

[quote="FernandoBTW, Mouser has the NTE888 iirc and the 4250 is pretty easy to find too[/quote]

Yes, but Mouser charges $70 shipping to Europe, so that makes it almost the same as unavailable.

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Fernando



Joined: Dec 30, 2006
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Location: Barcelona, Spain

PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I think Conrad has it. Reichelt has it too.

First try in your nearest local shop and I'm shure you'll find one of the 5 alternatives, this chip was very common, almost as the 741.
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ickystay



Joined: Nov 15, 2006
Posts: 139
Location: Oregon

PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Mouser has a NJR4250D they list as "Amplifiers - Operational - Programmable u-Power". I can't find a data sheet. They are very cheap.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=Hp4IEBVVqKI6H0Hsx4PcAA%3d%3d
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Fernando



Joined: Dec 30, 2006
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Location: Barcelona, Spain

PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ickystay wrote:
Mouser has a NJR4250D they list as "Amplifiers - Operational - Programmable u-Power". I can't find a data sheet. They are very cheap.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=Hp4IEBVVqKI6H0Hsx4PcAA%3d%3d


That should be another equivalent
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Etaoin



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

haxster: why are you using a dual opmap (LF442) for U2? You seem to have kept the pinout of a single opamp there, which can't be right...
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haxster



Joined: Feb 01, 2006
Posts: 244
Location: MONTEREY PARK, CA 91754
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here is an updated schematic for the Polivoks VCF. This circuit is working and takes care of the Cutoff problem. There is a 100k trimmer to fix that.
(g)=ground, V-=negative voltage, V+=Positive voltage.
TL074 pin 2 is were you do Voltage Convtrol: CV, put more 100k resistors if you need more CV inputs.

UPDATE FOR THIS DRAWING: 2009

(THE 100k 'ADJUST' TRIMMER NEEDS a 100k resistor in between the trimmer and PIN 2) it will still work if you forgot it, but the resistor helps you adjust alot smoother. in other words the trimmer middle pin should be connected to one of those 'CV' holes instead, not direct like it is in the picture.


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Last edited by haxster on Thu Jan 22, 2009 4:00 am; edited 2 times in total
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haxster



Joined: Feb 01, 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

THE POTS ARE NOT CRITICAL, they can be 100k or 50k. The 100k trimmer will calibrate the cutoff range anyway. On this layout the FM input is not on this one. This is a simple version of the polivoks to get you at least making sound.
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haxster



Joined: Feb 01, 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The Transistor is 2N3904, there is a Typo. For beginners---> on the Audio In and CV inputs use 50K or 100k Pots and wire them like this: (1)ground, (2)CV or AUDIO IN(the one your working on), (3) to the jack you like-1/4" phono or 3.5mm etc.
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haxster



Joined: Feb 01, 2006
Posts: 244
Location: MONTEREY PARK, CA 91754
G2 patch files: 2

PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The Switch is a little Hack I found, if you build one you will hear a cool hack!
FOr the switches it reads like this: SWITCH#1 - (PIN)1, SWITCH#1 - (PIN)2.........SWITCH#2 - (PIN)1, SWITCH#2 -(PIN)2.
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Funky40



Joined: Sep 24, 2005
Posts: 875
Location: Swiss
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

what are you doing exactly with the switch ?
What result you get soundwise ?

thanks for posting !
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haxster



Joined: Feb 01, 2006
Posts: 244
Location: MONTEREY PARK, CA 91754
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You get different Rez notches, it is a Rez Notch Hack.
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handsfelloff



Joined: Sep 01, 2008
Posts: 24
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey Haxter,

Thanks for all of this great info! There is very little else where that I have found.

i would love to build this circuit. However, I am a novice... but I am optemisitc and this circuit does not look too crazy to built. Ideally I would like to etch a pcb as well. the works Shocked
How did you solve the power supply -12 +12 issue I would like to run it off a standard 12v wall psu. It would be massivley helpful in the pursuit of understanding this build if any sucessful polyvox diyer's could impart a break down of the build.
As a novice its sometimes hard to fill in the gaps!

Any advise further info/tips would be really appreciated

cheers and thanks for the info so far!
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