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creatorlars
Joined: Nov 26, 2007 Posts: 524 Location: Denton, TX
Audio files: 4
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:31 am Post subject:
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Cool. I didn't use shielded cable anywhere but on the cables going to the reverb tanks (I had three nice 6-foot RCA cables I just cut in half and soldered the bare ends directly to the PCB.) Will I be okay? |
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j.dilisio
Joined: May 19, 2009 Posts: 200 Location: baltimore
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 10:59 am Post subject:
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I think the shielded cable is just to minimize interference in the signal path.
I honestly didn't have any problems with the tanks picking up any interference.
You could probably do without. It just depends on how much of an audiophile you want to be about it. _________________ DRONEGOAT |
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sduck
Joined: Dec 16, 2007 Posts: 459 Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5
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Posted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 9:18 pm Post subject:
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Finally finished mine! Still don't have tanks for it, but now I have no excuses, so I'll get on it pretty soon.
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KEYKEYEYEKIT
Joined: Sep 08, 2009 Posts: 24 Location: Atlanta
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Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:44 pm Post subject:
Neural Agonizer still available? |
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I really want to build this, but can't seem to find a link to buy the pcb's on the Tellun site. Am I wrong to think these are still available? |
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j.dilisio
Joined: May 19, 2009 Posts: 200 Location: baltimore
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The Bad Producer
Joined: Mar 08, 2009 Posts: 282 Location: The Manhole
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Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 3:05 am Post subject:
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They are available, I bought a set yesterday, and also a set of boards for the doomsday machine...
Charlie _________________ http://loudestwarning.tumblr.com/ |
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Abby Normal
Joined: Feb 20, 2010 Posts: 66 Location: USA
Audio files: 2
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Posted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:36 pm Post subject:
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So.... Does anyone want to sell their Neural Agonizer reverb tanks? I'm looking for a set of type 9s for my NA. Thanks.... |
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sneakthief
Joined: Jul 24, 2006 Posts: 569 Location: Berlin
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Abby Normal
Joined: Feb 20, 2010 Posts: 66 Location: USA
Audio files: 2
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Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 7:28 am Post subject:
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Thanks, sneakthief. I was hoping to get type 9 tanks if I can. The type 9 tanks on the tubes and more website have grounded inputs and outputs, so unfortunately, I don't think those will work.
If I can't find the correct type 9 tanks, I'll get the type 4 from tubes and more.
Thanks for the info... |
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Luka
Joined: Jun 29, 2007 Posts: 1003 Location: Melb.
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sduck
Joined: Dec 16, 2007 Posts: 459 Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5
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Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:47 pm Post subject:
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Hey Luka and all - Since Luka made his group buy, accutronics has apparently closed down their old sales method, with the ebay store and custom builds and all that. In fact, they closed it down right before I was going to order. However, I was able to talk them into doing another run, which I thought would be done by now, but I just checked, and they've still got the stuff up there. Look on ebay for sepi_group, or search for accutronics, and you'll find them. But get on it NOW! |
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Abby Normal
Joined: Feb 20, 2010 Posts: 66 Location: USA
Audio files: 2
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Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:46 am Post subject:
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Thanks all, for the replies. I just now emailed asking about availability of type 4 or 9 reverb tanks @ tubes and more, sepi_group, antique electronic supply, new sensor and mojo musical. We'll see what happens!
I've already heard back from W. G. I. lnc, but they only sell to manufacturers.
Oh...I searched the ebay listing for sepi groups, but I only found type 1 tanks that match the Agonizer specifications. If anyone can find a Agonizer-friendly type 4 or 9 tanks on their ebay pages, please let me know...
Thanks! |
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Abby Normal
Joined: Feb 20, 2010 Posts: 66 Location: USA
Audio files: 2
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Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:41 pm Post subject:
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It looks like I'm getting the part# 9FB3D1A. It's the long decay, and horizontal mount, open side up. I went with open side up because I'll probably keep the power supplies on the bottom of the cabinet, so the tanks would best be mounted far away...at the top! |
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Abby Normal
Joined: Feb 20, 2010 Posts: 66 Location: USA
Audio files: 2
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Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 5:12 pm Post subject:
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I received my 9FB3D1A tanks. Yes!!! It's the isolated input and output version. For each tank, I'm thinking of using a single twisted, shielded pair of cable to handle +In, -In, and the shield. Problem is, I'm not sure what type of cable or connectors to use. The PCB has a place to solder a mono minijack for each signal (+In, -In, etc..), so I'm not certain how to implement the wiring. I might forego PCB mounted jacks going to the input of the tanks, and just solder directly to the board. Does anyone have any recommendations otherwise?
Another thing that I'm thinking of is to add a sheet of metal to cover the open side of the tanks. Maybe this will help cut down on hum or other noise. Has anyone else done this with their tanks? |
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Luka
Joined: Jun 29, 2007 Posts: 1003 Location: Melb.
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Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 6:12 pm Post subject:
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i am wondering about how to connect my tanks to my module now also
there is no room in my cabinet for the tanks so it is a bit of a conundrum
hardwiring is out due to this fact
it is pretty much finished otherwise
_________________ problemchild
melbourne australia
http://cycleofproblems.blogspot.com/
http://www.last.fm/user/prblmchild |
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Abby Normal
Joined: Feb 20, 2010 Posts: 66 Location: USA
Audio files: 2
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Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 6:47 pm Post subject:
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Will the module itself fit in your cabinet? If so, maybe you can use longer cables and set the tanks on the floor, in a separate case.
Out of curiousity, which tank model do you have? |
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Luka
Joined: Jun 29, 2007 Posts: 1003 Location: Melb.
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Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 6:57 pm Post subject:
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the module fits, no room for tanks
i didnt really think about fitting large tanks in my case when i built it
only enough room for modules and power (and only just for power)
yup i will make a external box for my tanks
im just working out the optium length for cables at the moment
dont want to make them too long
i have the 9FB2D1B tanks _________________ problemchild
melbourne australia
http://cycleofproblems.blogspot.com/
http://www.last.fm/user/prblmchild |
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Abby Normal
Joined: Feb 20, 2010 Posts: 66 Location: USA
Audio files: 2
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Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 8:24 pm Post subject:
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Hi Luka, I'm sorry, I forgot that you arranged the group buy for those tanks. That was an awesome thing. Too bad I missed out.
I think your front panel looks fantastic. I'm stuck in the MOTM format. I like the large format of it (more room for my fat fingers ), but I have to admit that I'm envious of creative panel graphics such as yours.
So, even though they don't fit in your cabinet, have you hooked up your tanks to see how your agonizer sounds? |
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kx
Joined: Dec 05, 2009 Posts: 17 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 7:22 am Post subject:
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Hi guys,
I've finished most of my NA construction and now I'm about to order the tanks. Just wondering if anyone knows how important the 'DIGIT #5 - CONNECTORS ' part is. In the manual he says
D- Input Insulated / Output Insulated (best)
B- Input Grounded / Output Insulated (ok)
but would C = Input Insulated / Output Grounded
or A = Input Grounded / Output Grounded still work?
I just ask because the most affordable tanks I could find (at tubesandmore.com) are those ones (4FB2C1A and 4FB2A1D), so if
neither of those will work I'll have to get the 4FB3D1B which is more
expensive, and 'long' decay.
Thanks! |
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kx
Joined: Dec 05, 2009 Posts: 17 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 3:59 pm Post subject:
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I sent an email to Scott and he gave the following answer :
"Those will work, you'll just end up with multiple ground connections between the PCBs and the tanks. You can always disconnect the ground connections at the PCB if you have any noise problems. They'll probably work fine as is."
In case anyone else wants to know |
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JoeMorris
Joined: Apr 26, 2009 Posts: 161 Location: Brighton
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 4:13 am Post subject:
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After stripping my custom enclosure* N-Ag build back to nothing and starting again to try and get the lovely but agonizing device back to action after an unfortunate accident documented elsewhere, I've got it 90% operational but think I need to replace a couple of the OTAs. Does anyone know if CA3280Gs are an acceptable substitute for CA3280Es in this app?
*Friendly word of advice - if anyone is thinking of wiring this thing up in your own way in a standard rack enclosure, seriously consider investing in lots of tranquilizers first - most painful build ever. Or maybe it's just me being useless. |
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adambee7
Joined: Apr 04, 2009 Posts: 420 Location: united kingdom
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:31 am Post subject:
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The 3280g are fine. Cricklewood electronics have those in i think. |
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sduck
Joined: Dec 16, 2007 Posts: 459 Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 2:09 pm Post subject:
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I had an unfortunate electrical event take out my NA also - I don't know if it was a similar type of event as yours, but thought I'd share my misery. I also tried replacing all the ICs, which didn't fix it. I then replaced all the caps, and reflowed the solder on everything. Still no luck. Finally found the problem - one set of transistors had blown out. Replaced them, and it works fine. As long as my dual wogglebug is on another power supply. For some reason, the dual bug draws too much power during it's ramp up phase, which for some reason blows out one of the transistors on the NA. (I found this out the hard way) Go figure. Just one of those weird confluence of bad electricity things I guess. |
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Abby Normal
Joined: Feb 20, 2010 Posts: 66 Location: USA
Audio files: 2
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Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 7:45 pm Post subject:
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Sounds like that was a bummer, sduck. Good to hear that you got it going though. |
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JoeMorris
Joined: Apr 26, 2009 Posts: 161 Location: Brighton
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Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 3:32 am Post subject:
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Thanks for confirming that the 3280Gs should be good - Cricklewood was indeed the source I had in my sights.
Re the accident - sounds like you had a similarly painful experience to me sduck. I replaced every semiconductor on there. The reason - I stupidly dropped one of the tanks in the case whilst faffing about and it touched the one tiny bit of exposed metal on the power supply inlet, sending 240v through the whole circuit (and my arm). Luckily I was OK, but the neural agonizer sounded very wrong upon booting it back up.
Seems to work well up to the individual tank outs now, but I think two of my CA3280s were dodgy - I had to swap them round to get to this point, and feedback section in particular doesn't seem to work properly. LOVING the sound of this thing though. |
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