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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » fonik's place
3rd run of PCBs for the PS3100 Resonators & the X-panfader
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fonik



Joined: Jun 07, 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

they run out of stock at banzai. maybe he can tell you when they are back in stock. anyways, i have ordered from musikding before. no problem at all.
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robotfunk



Joined: Jun 22, 2009
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I finally got my vactrols and soldered them in place, so now stuffing the ICs some questions arose:

- I can't find TL074P anywhere and used TL074ACN instead, is that OK?

-I matched the half circle/ 'D shaped' indents of the ICs to those on the PCB art, but my TL072 does not have such an indent. I assumed all ICs would have the lettering in the same direction, and they are all upside down from the PCB art reading direction, is this correct?

-the 10 pin connector looks Doepfer compatible, is this true?

Eager to get some sound out of my first selfbuilt module!
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

robotfunk wrote:
- I can't find TL074P anywhere and used TL074ACN instead, is that OK?

I don't know the answer to this, but you might want to bring it up in the Prefixes and Suffixes of ICs thread.

Quote:
-I matched the half circle/ 'D shaped' indents of the ICs to those on the PCB art, but my TL072 does not have such an indent. I assumed all ICs would have the lettering in the same direction, and they are all upside down from the PCB art reading direction, is this correct?

If there is no indent, there is usually a round dot over pin 1.

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adambee7



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

fonik wrote:
they run out of stock at banzai. maybe he can tell you when they are back in stock. anyways, i have ordered from musikding before. no problem at all.


Just been on muzikdings site. Yeah good stuff. Thanks for letting us know banzai have run out. muzikdings looks like the better store. Very Happy
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fonik



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

robotfunk wrote:
- I can't find TL074P anywhere and used TL074ACN instead, is that OK?

any TL074 would be fine.

Quote:
-the 10 pin connector looks Doepfer compatible, is this true?

actually yes. however, double check the orientation of the connector.

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The Bad Producer



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello,

I've just finished my first VC Panner, I was wondering if I could use 20K trimmers on my others, I've run out of 50K?

This one works really well though, thanks Fonik!


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lexvortex



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 2:49 pm    Post subject: Strange panning behaviour Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi Fonik,

I've been using my panner/fader for a while now and notice that if im panning a signal using just one input from left to right the signal is full strength when panned full left or full right but in the middle it is maybe half the volume, is this normal or could there be something wrong with the unit? I've doubled checked that all the resistor values are correct. Could it maybe be a phase issue?

Thanks,
Dave
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fonik



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 11:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Strange panning behaviour Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

lexvortex wrote:
Hi Fonik,

I've been using my panner/fader for a while now and notice that if im panning a signal using just one input from left to right the signal is full strength when panned full left or full right but in the middle it is maybe half the volume, is this normal or could there be something wrong with the unit? I've doubled checked that all the resistor values are correct. Could it maybe be a phase issue?

Thanks,
Dave

this is normal. however, half the volume is what your hear, not what you'll measure. anyways, IIRC i suggested somewhere in this thread to lower the values of R46 and R50 to compensate (72k?).

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lexvortex



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 12:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Great!! Thanks, I'll try a different value and see how that goes.

Cheers,
Dave

Has anyone else tried this?
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lexvortex



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi Fonik,

I just tried the mod of replacing R46, 50 with 75K and that just increased the volume of the center input jack, which is not what I wanted (I should have looked at the schematics more closely).

What I had hoped to achieve was taking one signal from either the left or right input jack only and having it pan with equal volume from left to right; right now the volume decreases as it reaches the center position.

Is there a way to make the panner pan with equal volume across the stereo field?

Thanks,
Dave
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fonik



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

lexvortex wrote:
I just tried the mod of replacing R46, 50 with 75K and that just increased the volume of the center input jack, which is not what I wanted (I should have looked at the schematics more closely).

sorry, my fault - should have been the other way around! maybe 150k?

Quote:
Is there a way to make the panner pan with equal volume across the stereo field?

not with this simple circuit. this would need a more sophisticated design. the VCAs would have to be exponential in response, i believe.

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lexvortex



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ok, Thanks for the help.

Cheers,
Dave
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haricots



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Finally 'finished' my Resonator last night, however two of the switches I bought are the wrong type. All three switches (lfo inv, lfo speed, lfo shape) are SPDT, correct? LFO speed and shape needs a three position SPDT, which I think is also called SPTT, right? Can someone point me in the right direction on what I should buy? A Mouser part # would be great! Switches confuse me. Embarassed

Awesome module btw!!! I haven't played with the trimmers because everything sounds great but are they there to adjust the frequency offset of each filter?
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I've finally got round to building this as, alongside a load of long overdue projects. I notice the original PS3100 has intensity controls which are not on the Fonik version. Is this something I can easily add, if so, how?

Also, the x-pan fader, I am thinking of building this as a separate module, are there any downsides to not hard-wiring it to the resonator PCB?

Intensity controls on the original machine:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_rScBRKlTdoE/SorscsKXo6I/AAAAAAAAbm0/1WWSkVYt3Ss/s1600-h/Detail-2.jpg

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fonik



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

LektroiD wrote:
I notice the original PS3100 has intensity controls which are not on the Fonik version. Is this something I can easily add, if so, how?

the density control was actually nothing but a wet/dry control, done with a potentiometer. just refer to the original schematics.
KORGRS1

Quote:
Also, the x-pan fader, I am thinking of building this as a separate module, are there any downsides to not hard-wiring it to the resonator PCB?

i used switching sockets, so it is a standalone, actually.
anyways, the VCAs of the x-pan-fader are not top notch, and you will have a 'pop' when controlling it with squared control voltages.

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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks Fonik, I will look into adding an intensity control (handy feature to have), hopefully it won't require too much kludging.

I have another question regarding transistors on this, can I substitute the BC560C for anything else; a BC556 for example - or is there something closer out there?

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fonik



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

LektroiD wrote:
Thanks Fonik, I will look into adding an intensity control (handy feature to have), hopefully it won't require too much kludging.

the simple solution would be useful for the sum out only, though.

Quote:
I have another question regarding transistors on this, can I substitute the BC560C for anything else; a BC556 for example - or is there something closer out there?

no problem at all. watch out for the pinout...

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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

fonik wrote:
LektroiD wrote:
Thanks Fonik, I will look into adding an intensity control (handy feature to have), hopefully it won't require too much kludging.

the simple solution would be useful for the sum out only, though.


I'm still not sure how I would wire it; is it a simple case of getting something like a 100k pot and wiring the wet signal to pin 3, dry to pin 1 and out from the wiper?

fonik wrote:
Quote:
I have another question regarding transistors on this, can I substitute the BC560C for anything else; a BC556 for example - or is there something closer out there?

no problem at all. watch out for the pinout...


It appears the pinout is a simple case of installing them the opposite way to the silkscreen.

Should I put a BC546 in place of the BC550 to complement the BC556?

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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Now I'm really confused, the Philips/NXP datasheet for the BC556 is saying the opposite to the Motorolla one for the same device, which one do I trust?

Are there any other transistors I can use - ones that have definite/fixed pin-outs?

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fonik



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

LektroiD wrote:
Now I'm really confused, the Philips/NXP datasheet for the BC556 is saying the opposite to the Motorolla one for the same device, which one do I trust?

BC556/557/560 and BC 546/547/550 are all CBE.
the phillips datasheet is misleading. they reversed the numbers of the pins, that's all. what they call pin 3 is normally pin 1 (the leftmost pin when facing the flat side of the package, pins down). so both are CBE.

Quote:
Are there any other transistors I can use

2N3904 (NPN) / 2N3906 (PNP), thay are both EBC.

hope that helps.

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fonik



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

LektroiD wrote:
LektroiD wrote:
Thanks Fonik, I will look into adding an intensity control..


I'm still not sure how I would wire it; is it a simple case of getting something like a 100k pot and wiring the wet signal to pin 3, dry to pin 1 and out from the wiper?

yep.

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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

fonik wrote:
LektroiD wrote:
LektroiD wrote:
Thanks Fonik, I will look into adding an intensity control..


I'm still not sure how I would wire it; is it a simple case of getting something like a 100k pot and wiring the wet signal to pin 3, dry to pin 1 and out from the wiper?

yep.


Job done, but the dry sound appears quite a lot louder than the wet. What would I need to change to increase the gain on the wet sound?

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fonik



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 5:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

LektroiD wrote:
Job done, but the dry sound appears quite a lot louder than the wet. What would I need to change to increase the gain on the wet sound?

to increase gain of the wet wouln't be done easily, so why not just attenuate the dry signal? i.e. two resistors forming a simple voltage divider?

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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi, I'm in the middle of doing the LFO speed mod.

Following the capacitors on the BOM is wrong, I get fast when I select slow, medium when I select fast and slow when I select medium.

This is not just back to front, but completely wrong somehow, so, I have swapped out the capacitors to remedy this,
I have pulled the 6.8n from C22 and replaced with 68n,
I have pulled the 680n from C23 and replaced with 6.8n,
and pulled the 68n from C24 and replaced with 680n.

Now, without C22,
Fast = Fast
Slow = Slow,

but when I put C22 in,
Slow = Slow
Medium = Medium
Fast now also = Medium.

Please could someone explain the proper capacitor sequence for this, as the BOM is definitely incorrect. I think I pulled a pad off the board with all the desoldering, but hopefully it was not connected to anything, although very hard to tell on a black PCB

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fonik



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ithe BOM is correct. it is the labeling of the switch in the wiring diagram that is wrong. it reads
fast
mid
slow
and should read
slow
fast
mid

that's a bummer, i know. realy sorry for that. will be able to correct this in the docs next monday.

details:
C22 is always connected, so you want the smallest value here = high speed. WP4 is connected to C24 (68n), which will give a higher value = mid speed of the LFO. WP3 is connected to C23 (680n), which will give you the highest value = slowest speed.

in this configuration there is one timing cap always connected (C22) and then two other caps a switched in parallel to this cap (C23, C24). caps in parallel add their values. so with an on-off-on switch we will never have MID in the middle position, but always FAST. compare it to other modules with similar configurations, i.e. an doepfer ADSR.

again, it's been my fault. i hope you manage to work in the mod. the PCB is a high quality board, actually. i've done some resoldering in the past. however, pads CAN lift up. in these cases i removed the soldermask of the according trace to solder there.
you could alternatively solder the additional caps C23, C24 direkt onto the switch. have done that before. just take a careful look at the schematic...

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