electro-music.com   Dedicated to experimental electro-acoustic
and electronic music
 
    Front Page  |  Articles  |  Radio
 |  Media  |  Forum  |  Wiki  |  Links  |  Store
Forum with support of Syndicator RSS
 FAQFAQ   CalendarCalendar   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   LinksLinks
 RegisterRegister   ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in  Chat RoomChat Room 
 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Jürgen Haible designs
"Son Of Storm Tide" Flanger
Post new topic   Reply to topic Moderators: Scott Stites
Page 11 of 13 [304 Posts]
View unread posts
View new posts in the last week
Mark the topic unread :: View previous topic :: View next topic
Goto page: Previous 1, 2, 3, ..., 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 Next

interested?
yes
97%
 97%  [ 40 ]
no
2%
 2%  [ 1 ]
Total Votes : 41

Author Message
sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 441
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

zthee wrote:
Would it be useless to use 2 pots instead of a dual gang - on the input and mix pots?


No, I think it would provide for some different effects, depending on how you used them.

zthee wrote:
Also, the BPol output isn't mentioned in the documents? (I think I've looked at everything at least twice..) Great place for a bipolar LED?


That spot can be used as a jumper or brought out as a switch to the front panel - I think I saw previously in this thread that if you connect these contacts it reverses the bounce direction.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
nerdware



Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 91
Location: UK

PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Would it be ok to replace the 50K pots with 100K pots? They appear to be used as voltage dividers. I'm guessing that the exact pot value isn't critical, but I'd like to check, just in case I've missed or misunderstood something.
_________________
http://soundcloud.com/nerdware/
"render unto digital what is due to digital, render unto analogue what is due to analogue"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
jhaible



Joined: May 25, 2007
Posts: 2014
Location: Germany
Audio files: 24

PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

nerdware wrote:
Would it be ok to replace the 50K pots with 100K pots? They appear to be used as voltage dividers. I'm guessing that the exact pot value isn't critical, but I'd like to check, just in case I've missed or misunderstood something.


Should work, but you should connect a 100k resistor between ccw and cw end of the LFO MOOD potentiometer.
(Or increase R46 and R47 to 100k and decrease C11 to 2u2.)

JH.

_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
nerdware



Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 91
Location: UK

PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ahhh, yes. I see that now. Thanks!
_________________
http://soundcloud.com/nerdware/
"render unto digital what is due to digital, render unto analogue what is due to analogue"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
nerdware



Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 91
Location: UK

PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Now I'm confused by the power requirements for the AC wall wart. Schematic #7 says I should use a 2-wire AC wall wart giving 16-18V. Ok, I understand that. I just can't find any UK wall warts with AC voltage in that range. The nearest I can find is 12V and 24V. I doubt that 12V would work, but what about 24V? Will the regulators cope with that?

Is there an alternative? Schematic #5 suggests I can use 3-wire AC. Well, I have a 1A centre-tapped 17.5V AC linelump (a Yamaha PA-20), but that's big, heavy, and possibly overkill. However, it does appear to fit the spec. Am I mistaken?

_________________
http://soundcloud.com/nerdware/
"render unto digital what is due to digital, render unto analogue what is due to analogue"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
krisp14u



Joined: Nov 11, 2006
Posts: 206
Location: uk

PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/ac-1850/adaptor-18vac-500ma/dp/1176242?Ntt=ac/ac
would that not fit the bill

_________________
Cheers

Paul Darlow

www.krisp1.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
jhaible



Joined: May 25, 2007
Posts: 2014
Location: Germany
Audio files: 24

PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

krisp14u wrote:
http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/ac-1850/adaptor-18vac-500ma/dp/1176242?Ntt=ac/ac
would that not fit the bill


That looks good!

JH.

_________________
"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
nerdware



Joined: Jul 11, 2009
Posts: 91
Location: UK

PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jhaible wrote:
krisp14u wrote:
http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/ac-1850/adaptor-18vac-500ma/dp/1176242?Ntt=ac/ac
would that not fit the bill


That looks good!

JH.

Excellent! Thanks, both of you. Very Happy

_________________
http://soundcloud.com/nerdware/
"render unto digital what is due to digital, render unto analogue what is due to analogue"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
Posts: 346
Location: San Francisco, CA
Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi, I'm finally returning to this thing to finish it. What have people generally done about the 100n SMT caps on the solder side. Add them all? Wait and add them as needed to fix problems? Any advice on their necessity would be appreciated.

(For what it's worth, AFAIK I'm pretty much using the IC's as spec'd with no op-amp substitutions.)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 441
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I always just solder all of those on first before doing anything else, so I can forget about them. They're kind of a pain to do unless you can lay the pcb flat. I use these - 581-12065C104JAZ2A - that's a mouser part number.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
Posts: 346
Location: San Francisco, CA
Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sduck wrote:
I always just solder all of those on first before doing anything else, so I can forget about them. They're kind of a pain to do unless you can lay the pcb flat. I use these - 581-12065C104JAZ2A - that's a mouser part number.


Ok, thanks, we have a silent consensus building around your reply. Solder them all it is!

But of course my board is all stuffed so I'll have to make due in terms of the laying it flat part.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
StephenGiles



Joined: Apr 17, 2006
Posts: 481
Location: England

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

"so I'll have to make due in terms of the laying it flat part"

"¿Que Mr Fawlty?"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
Posts: 346
Location: San Francisco, CA
Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

StephenGiles wrote:
"so I'll have to make due in terms of the laying it flat part"
"¿Que Mr Fawlty?"


In reference to this, Manuel:

sduck wrote:
They're kind of a pain to do unless you can lay the pcb flat.


Wink
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
diablojoy



Joined: Sep 07, 2008
Posts: 790
Location: melbourne australia
Audio files: 11

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

you could try my method perhaps for SMT components
no need to lay flat
use very small blobs of blue tac to hold them in place on one end
and solder the opposite end then remove the blue tac and solder the
other end has always worked very well for me and its fast
the blue tac makes it very easy to pick and place
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
wmonk



Joined: Sep 15, 2008
Posts: 485
Location: Enschede, the Netherlands
Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

diablojoy wrote:
you could try my method perhaps for SMT components
no need to lay flat
use very small blobs of blue tac to hold them in place on one end
and solder the opposite end then remove the blue tac and solder the
other end has always worked very well for me and its fast
the blue tac makes it very easy to pick and place

thumright very good idea, thanks! does it solder a bit more difficult on the spot where the blue tac has been? Or are there no chemicals left on the board?

_________________
Weblog!
Kits for synthesiser modules in Europe
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
Posts: 346
Location: San Francisco, CA
Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

diablojoy wrote:
you could try my method perhaps for SMT components
no need to lay flat
use very small blobs of blue tac to hold them in place on one end
and solder the opposite end then remove the blue tac and solder the
other end has always worked very well for me and its fast
the blue tac makes it very easy to pick and place


Thanks, I'll give that a try! And at least this way if it doesn't work, I will have an easier time affixing the SMT caps to my wall. (Framing suggestions?) Wink
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
diablojoy



Joined: Sep 07, 2008
Posts: 790
Location: melbourne australia
Audio files: 11

PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
does it solder a bit more difficult on the spot where the blue tac has been? Or are there no chemicals left on the board?


appears to solder exactly the same as normal
though if you look closely you can see where it has been under very bright light
you do have to let the parts cool down fully before removing the blue tac
seems to come away clean mostly the first time but if not a couple of dabs with some more blue tac gets any remainder off , even with that i find its quicker than thru hole
I have done quite a lot of SMT like this and haven't struck any problems with this method yet, but then I only use a 60/40 0.7 mm rosin cored solder
haven't tried it with any other type of solder like the water soluable stuff
I doubt this method would work so well if you needed to use added flux [paste , brush on or flux pen ]
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
Posts: 346
Location: San Francisco, CA
Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi, so I'm troubleshooting my flanger -- so far it sounds like a Flanger but many of the controls do very little to change the sound (i.e. Manual, LFO, Ext CV with a working LFO input, etc). I'm wondering if something is going wrong at the junction of all these voltages but I haven't found the culprit yet. Looking at schematic p1, if I measure the wiper of the Manual pot, I get a +/-15v range as I sweep the pot, as I should. Testing the junction of R1, C1 and R2, I get a +/-7.5 range from the same sweep. Testing the other side of R2 (the junction of all the control voltages) I get almost nothing unless I switch to millivolts. Does that seem wrong? It seems wrong tp me (although I am still fuzzy on a lot of the theory) but then the output of U1A swings from -3v to 6v (or is it -6v to 3 v, can't recall exactly).

I'm having issues with BBD2/Long Delay as well, but I have a few obvious things to test there, like swapping out my TDA1022.

Oh and thanks to everyone for the SMT bypass cap advice -- I did all 22 and it was a good learning experience in dealing with those little guys. Got pretty adept by the end!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Fetafarmer



Joined: Jul 29, 2007
Posts: 32

PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I just completed my SOST, and I really wanted to thank you, Jürgen! It's one of my favorite modules already, and using it reminds me of the first times that I really started experimenting with sound, with a room full of pedals and contraptions all plugged together. The on-board modulation really helps to give it some motion and vibrancy.

Thanks again for all you've created and contributed!
Kevin
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
Posts: 346
Location: San Francisco, CA
Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ok, still troubleshooting my SOST and making some progress. But still many things to debug. Here's two things that MAYBE somebody here can help clarify:

1) There's a loud, unpredictable thumping (sub freq sort of thing) that seems maybe associated with Bounce. I can post a sample later if it would help. It's somewhat irregular and doesn't seem to simply be responding to LFO, etc. Any ideas what would cause that?

2) LFO mode: triangle and S/H work, but slew/square does nothing. Why would that be? The schematic confuses me a bit. (Relevant sections here and here.) The shape switch seems to select which of the working waveforms goes to a junction with the square and one end of the LFO mod pot, with "off" being slew. Wouldn't this just average the slew and tri/SH signals? At any rate, if I scope that point with the switch set to slew, I get nothing. Of course my scope shows triangle and something like a S/H at their respective setting.

_________________
-Jim
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
SubG (deactivated)



Joined: Oct 09, 2009
Posts: 70

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

you don't need a scope, make sure all your components are the right one
,that the solder job is perfect and that the wiring is exactly like in the documentation,and then it works immediately.

i built 2 of them
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
Posts: 346
Location: San Francisco, CA
Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

SubG wrote:
you don't need a scope, make sure all your components are the right one
,that the solder job is perfect and that the wiring is exactly like in the documentation,and then it works immediately.

i built 2 of them


Yeah, I've checked these sections for wiring, and most of the components (I haven't verified every resistor value.) I'm sure the design works I'm just wondering if there might be a bad chip, a dead cap, etc, and before I go tearing everything apart I'd like to know where to start.

-Jim

_________________
-Jim
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 441
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I have a feeling these two problems are related. My guess would be some sort of miswire somewhere - there are lots of places this could happen. I'd advise - take some time to cool off, get some rest, etc. Then inspect the wiring paths, starting at some different point than the one that you used originally - in other words, get a fresh perspective. The switch wiring is very complicated on these, it's easy to get things wrong.

Yes, the slew setting should connect to nothing. I'm not sure how the circuit works, except that when wired exactly as indicated it works properly, which isn't any help I realize. Again, double check the wiring around here, and you might want to do some continuity checks to make sure there are no shorts, or connections where there aren't supposed to be one. Also check your switch that its the right kind - that when it's in the middle position it's not connected to either (or both) of the other positions - some kind of switches do this.

I've never really understood what the bounce knob does, and tend to leave it off on mine most of the time - it really does some weird stuff fast when it's turned up. This thumping - is it possibly related to the speed of the lfo? I seem to recall someone getting a similar problem and being able to fix it by switching the delay chips - read back through this thread and see if I'm just imagining this.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
Posts: 346
Location: San Francisco, CA
Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sduck wrote:
I have a feeling these two problems are related. My guess would be some sort of miswire somewhere - there are lots of places this could happen. I'd advise - take some time to cool off, get some rest, etc. Then inspect the wiring paths, starting at some different point than the one that you used originally - in other words, get a fresh perspective. The switch wiring is very complicated on these, it's easy to get things wrong

Thanks. Agreed about the switch wiring. It's a real headache. I've been going back through, comparing it to my wiring diagram, and haven't found the problem yet. Mine is a 3u and some of these switches seem tight and hard to get to -- I can only imagine how tight your 2u must be!

Anyways, I've attached my own wiring diagram, both for review (if anyone is so inclined) and also for future builders, as it might be handy to see some of these connections translated from schematics. Of course, since my build isn't working yet, it's possible my diagram is faulty.

Quote:
Also check your switch that its the right kind - that when it's in the middle position it's not connected to either (or both) of the other positions - some kind of switches do this.

Yeah, it's ON-OFF-ON, and behaving that way. That much I know.

Quote:
I've never really understood what the bounce knob does, and tend to leave it off on mine most of the time - it really does some weird stuff fast when it's turned up. This thumping - is it possibly related to the speed of the lfo? I seem to recall someone getting a similar problem and being able to fix it by switching the delay chips - read back through this thread and see if I'm just imagining this.

Bounce -- Numbertalk pointed back to the original "Storm Tide" (father) page that has some interesting info that presumably is relevant to some of the "Son of... " functionality.

"Now this is another Eventide feature. It's not the original circuit, but I have just used different components to avoid electrolytic capacitors, so all credit for this goes to Eventide here as well. The summed control voltage (Manual, Pedal, LFO, Envelope follower) is fed into a sub audio BPF, then into a nonlinear amplifier with positive feedback (not a schmitt trigger, but similar), and then filtered by a second BPF. A variable portion of this is mixed to the straight CV to control the BBD's clock frequency. The effect is most prominent on single-shot, non-periodic CV changes, such as a fast single Manual of Pedal sweep. The single sweep is followed by smooth "echoes" that go in either direction (faster clock and slower clock). This is to emulate the "bouncing" tape speed of reel-to-reel tape machines when the friction from a thump against the reel is suddenly released."

After reading this and doing further testing, I actually seem to get this weird thumping without Bounce on as well, so I assume it's nothing to do with the thump JH describes in the paragraph. And IIRC the lfo-related noise is more of a bleedthru thing, and I also get some bleedthru. Worse yet, I also don't get any actual Flange, just resonance, albeit very nice sounding resonance, if that makes any sense. So back to the drawing board.

Incidentally I rewatched your SOST video and didn't hear any thumping like I get, and none of the nice flange you get even with the Resonance set to CCW. Sigh.


JH_Flanger_3u_wiring.pdf
 Description:
Son of Storm Tide wiring diagram (for yet-to-be-working build!)

Download
 Filename:  JH_Flanger_3u_wiring.pdf
 Filesize:  361.47 KB
 Downloaded:  91 Time(s)


_________________
-Jim
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 441
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ok, my guess now is that you've got bad/fake delay chips. There's a rash of fake chips going around - maybe you've got some of those. Earlier in this thread there's some posts about this. I kind of took a chance and bought 12 chips from UTsource, and they all worked. Do you have any way of testing your chips? Or getting new/different ones? I'll happily send you my extra ones if that'll help, - pm me (don't expect fast replies - crazy holiday schedule).
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic Moderators: Scott Stites
Page 11 of 13 [304 Posts]
View unread posts
View new posts in the last week
Goto page: Previous 1, 2, 3, ..., 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 Next
Mark the topic unread :: View previous topic :: View next topic
 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Jürgen Haible designs
Jump to:  

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
mps board

Please support our site. If you click through and buy from
our affiliate partners, we earn a small commission.


Forum with support of Syndicator RSS
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
Copyright © 2003 through 2009 by electro-music.com - Conditions Of Use