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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » The layout factory
Help with stripboard layout...
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wizardsofzen



Joined: Jan 08, 2011
Posts: 14
Location: Zion

PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ah ha! there in lies the problem, i reside in the land of zen.

thanks for the new info, i've just wanted to board this for about 6 months now.

now i have an issue of where to find TL072P IC's or an equivalent replacement...

i do see some things that look close on mouser, but unsure, anyone have the culprit?

i do enjoy a good foray out of the land of zen once in a while, just not outside of eyesight of the doorway back in....

currently, this is my best guess - http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TL072ACPvirtualkey59500000virtualkey595-TL072ACP

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Ben.H



Joined: Jun 18, 2012
Posts: 1
Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 6:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi guys, I know this is an old thread but for future reference it should be noted I found the error that was causing the oscillator to not resonate correctly. The junction of R12, T2, R11 & C4 was being grounded, the track needs to be cut between C4 & R26 on the 13th line.

Hope this helps someone, took me freakin ages to find!
I've built the same circuit using the original eric archer layout and found they were sounding quite different previously
Stripboard is now working correctly!

LektroiD wrote:
Further use and I no longer think the problem lies in the click being too loud, but more a problem with the sine being too quiet. The click should be there, and seems to cut through the mix as it should, the body (sinewave) of the kick on the other hand doesn't, and is way too low.

I'm now wondering if there's a resistor somewhere on one of the op amps restricting the output of the sine. Looking at the schematic, it appears IC1B takes care of amplifying this part of the circuit, now to find which resistor is restricting the level of the sine..
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 761

Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Welcome and well done Ben.H! I'll have to look at this stripboard again. I managed to get reasonable sound out of it by triggering it from some other spot but it's still not quite right. I forget what I did... I probably posted about it Confused Laughing .

I knew someone would solve this riddle before I died!
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 761

Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'm making the other voices now on stripboard. Just linking...

http://electro-music.com/forum/post-368380.html#368380
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gerbster



Joined: Nov 13, 2012
Posts: 2
Location: Breda, The Netherlands

PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:34 am    Post subject:  A little help.. Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey All,

The last couple of weeks I've tried to get this strip board up and running but I'm afraid I'm stuck.. I was wondering if somebody who has finished this board successfully can give me some voltage values at some points on the board so I can track down the problem.

First, my setup:

- I've build a +/- 12V power supply and connected it to the stripboard with an extra +12V going into the accent
- the trigger is connected to a Highly Liquid MD24 board output (which gives +5V pulses, i've checked that)
- I've plugged in the output into my mixer

I've measured the voltages on the TL072, and they read + and -12 on pin 4 & 8, so that is getting power. However, I don't see anything coming out of T3. There is +12V on the collector but the base isn't getting anything from the trigger (I think.. Smile )

Anyway, I was wondering, in this thread I've read something about supplying voltages to some points to manually trigger this circuit, but what points should that be?

Thanks in advance!


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RotomotioN



Joined: Mar 02, 2013
Posts: 9
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey Gerbster
You need a momentary switch between +V and the normal trigger input point
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elmegil



Joined: Mar 20, 2012
Posts: 1536
Location: Chicago
Audio files: 14

PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I don't know that I'd agree on a momentary...

There has to be positive voltage on both of the inputs for there to be a trigger. How much positive voltage can have a significant impact on how loud / hard a hit you get out of it.

Some people hook the accent (the "northern" input) to +V all the time. Others hook the two inputs together. In the original there wasn't any trigger conditioning (the diode and cap arrangement on the input) and you had the "common clock" (a combination of the clock and variable accent on steps when it was active, ranging from 4 to 14V) gated by the instrument step (5V).

I've found though, attempting to do it "the right way", something must be different about the modern components, because even with no instrument gate, I will get a trigger from a sufficiently high accent + clock. What I've done is tie those two together, and I'm generating the 1ms pulse from an Arduino so I don't have to worry about conditioning the input. If I were to make this a module, I'd use the conditioner though (I've got it on the stripboard, I just bypass it with the gate input).
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elmegil



Joined: Mar 20, 2012
Posts: 1536
Location: Chicago
Audio files: 14

PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

BTW there's a lot more discussion of the 808 stripboard Bass Drum over on this thread, after the first page or two of talking about the high hats and cymbals.

http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-54826.html&postorder=asc
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gerbster



Joined: Nov 13, 2012
Posts: 2
Location: Breda, The Netherlands

PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 6:44 am    Post subject: I'm an idiot Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Well, it turned out i'm an idiot. After building a complete new 808 BD pcb from scratch that DID work i found that... I connected the output wire to the wrong pin of my output socket.

so now i have 2 fully working 808 BD's Wink But thanks for your replies.
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
Posts: 91
Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Oouch, got every parts "in stock", except the two 0.47u caps.
Can I use 1u?
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elmegil



Joined: Mar 20, 2012
Posts: 1536
Location: Chicago
Audio files: 14

PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

They make up filters on the output section so doubling the size of the two caps will change the sound.

However, two 1uF caps in series will make .5uF capacitance which would be quite close.

Not sure how you'd fit that onto the stripboard, but there's probably a way.
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
Posts: 91
Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

elmegil wrote:
They make up filters on the output section so doubling the size of the two caps will change the sound.

However, two 1uF caps in series will make .5uF capacitance which would be quite close.

Not sure how you'd fit that onto the stripboard, but there's probably a way.

I see. Already ordered a couple from Tayda, just have some freetime, and anything else is here in stock Very Happy
Then waiting...
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
Posts: 91
Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

-minus- wrote:
LektroiD wrote:
-minus- wrote:
Changing the DECAY pot to a 1M seems to hold the decay forever when fully dialed.


This seems to make the decay appear to feed back, and starts pitching upwards by a semitone when fully dialled on mine. I think it is possible to reduce the resistance by putting another resistor either in series of parallel (I can't remember which way around it is), but I should be able to level it out with a trimmer.. Or, I could just leave it as a 'feature'.

Quote:
I've probed around the circuit a bit with a piece of wire without any detrimental results... I hope! I put another pot (500K) between the left leg of R18 and the right leg of R23 and by turning it, it makes the kick drum sound like toms.


from which angle are you taking 'left & right'? Also are you referring to the schematic, the stripboard (which is laid out vertically) or the perfboard layout? I tried all combinations of this with a 470K resistor, but nothing happened.. Can you please indicate what else is in the junction of 'left' and 'right' legs?

I don't think I'll build another one just yet, I'll wait until the triggering problems have been ironed out of this, which will hopefully get rid of the audible 'trigger' click..


My 1M pot seems to go a bit wild too... I guess fully dialed was a bit of an overstatement. There's a point where it extends the decay a lot though.

Ok... the mysterious tom pot. I've just switched on this breadboard version... Looking at the perf board layout, it's from the link between pin 5 of the IC (TL072) and the 22K resistor (R18).... and the link between the 470K resistor (R23) and C6. This is where I'm putting the 500K B pot. (the neck bone is connected to the back bone...etc)

I'm triggering manually with one of the methods described earlier. Not that this would matter I guess.

To be honest, I really don't know what I'm doing! You are probably much more experienced in these matters than myself...

Anyway, hopefully someone else can work out a click-less triggering method! I'm really unsure what Krunkus meant by: The notes say that Accent needs to be held high by at least 2V or the trigger won't work. I'd try holding it at 6V and then try triggering as normal.

I mean, as one can clearly see, I don't even know how to post quotes on a forum correctly, let alone work out what anyone is talking about here most of the time! Don't even know what day it is....
hanged

I would like to do this "Tom mod"...but...its not clear.
Could please be a bit specific?
Im ok with the board part, but what about the 500k pot connections?
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
Posts: 91
Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

So, I've finished mine...but...
Well it's always "sounds"...
I mean ican trigger, and hear the click etc, but it seems that there is no decay:S
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
Posts: 91
Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ignore my last post!
Decay and pitch mod pots was not working Smile
Replaced them and now : BoOooOoOm

Note for future builders : pot lugs are numbered from back of the pot in the original stripboard layout, but the pitch mod pot numbered from the front!

Ive used 1M for decay, no pitch problem even if its fully open, and 100k for the pitch mod.
Finished board working in my eurorack fine!
Used the accent pot drawing, with a 100k pot.
Module triggered now from a square wave lfo:)

Thanks for the layout!
Now have to mobe to the snare SmileSmileSmileSmile
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