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Faulty DX100 keyboard
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 5:49 am    Post subject: Faulty DX100 keyboard Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I have a DX100 and a couple of the keys needed a little extra pressure to play, so I stripped the keyboard down and cleaned the rubber strip and all the contacts with isopropyl alcohol. Now only a few keys work. I was wondering if I could use something like this to repair it:

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/displayProduct.jsp?sku=SA00867&CMP=e-2072-00001000

If anyone knows another means by which I can make the contacts more conductive, please let me know?

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esnabez



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The rubber keypad repair kit will work, but you might want to try a plain old pencil first. The graphite in the repair kit "paint" is the same as ordinary pencil graphite. Just find a pencil with the softest graphite you can (if in doubt, ask your local stationer). I usually grind the tip of the pencil down to a powder with fine sandpaper, rub a cotton swab in the powdered graphite, then apply it to the contacts. I've had really good results with this method. Good luck!
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blue hell
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

esnabez wrote:
I usually grind the tip of the pencil down to a powder with fine sandpaper, rub a cotton swab in the powdered graphite, then apply it to the contacts. I've had really good results with this method. Good luck!


Sounds like a good idea, will remember that!

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also .. could someone please turn down the thermostat a bit.
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

esnabez wrote:
The rubber keypad repair kit will work, but you might want to try a plain old pencil first. The graphite in the repair kit "paint" is the same as ordinary pencil graphite. Just find a pencil with the softest graphite you can (if in doubt, ask your local stationer). I usually grind the tip of the pencil down to a powder with fine sandpaper, rub a cotton swab in the powdered graphite, then apply it to the contacts. I've had really good results with this method. Good luck!


I did try something similar, someone else had mentioned using a pencil, I just drew on top of the contacts, but it didn't really help. If it is in powder form, how are you getting it to stick?

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Dego



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I did try to fix my dx100 with a graphite pencil but it just got worse. But I think I will try to powder with the graphite and see if it works better...
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v-un-v
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I used to have a dx100 too, and with the same problem. I also tried to fix it with the above idea, but it didn't work. Come on guys, get real. The dx100 was a toy, which just happened to become a 'classic'.
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ACHTUNG!
ALLES TURISTEN UND NONTEKNISCHEN LOOKENPEEPERS!
DAS KOMPUTERMASCHINE IST NICHT FÜR DER GEFINGERPOKEN UND MITTENGRABEN! ODERWISE IST EASY TO SCHNAPPEN DER SPRINGENWERK, BLOWENFUSEN UND POPPENCORKEN MIT SPITZENSPARKSEN.
IST NICHT FÜR GEWERKEN BEI DUMMKOPFEN. DER RUBBERNECKEN SIGHTSEEREN KEEPEN DAS COTTONPICKEN HÄNDER IN DAS POCKETS MUSS.
ZO RELAXEN UND WATSCHEN DER BLINKENLICHTEN.
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esnabez



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Sorry, my post may have been misleading by using the phrase "ordinary pencil graphite". A basic "No. 2" pencil's graphite may be too hard (mixed with too much clay) to be of much use.

What you should look for is an artists drawing pencil. Pure graphite is naturally soft, so to make different grades of hardness, the graphite is mixed with clay. You want one with the purest graphite possible. A "9B" is preferable. And you must grind it into a powder. Just drawing on the contact with the pencil tip usually doesn't work.

Having said all this, I realize that not everyone has an art supply store nearby. Another option is to buy graphite dry lubricant powder from a hardware store. For example: http://cpc.farnell.com/ck-tools/t6283a/graphite-dry-lubricant-powder/dp/ME18361

Pure graphite powder adheres to rubber easily. I've never had a problem getting it to stick to rubber contacts by applying it with a cotton swab. Be careful though, being a powder it can get messy. Go slowly and build it up in layers. The contacts should have the silvery-gray shine of a pencil tip when you're done.
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Dan Lavin



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Esnabez,
brilliant solution!

just as a side note, I remember a few years back everyone was chuckling at the NASA engineers trying to develop a pen that would write well in space and the newsmen would say "well the Russians just use a pencil!" and wink and imply the NASA guys were dumb-arses. I took out a pencil and measured it's lead and yeah...graphite is very conductive! I'd like to ask the newsguys if it was smart to have a broken, extremely conductive piece of pencil lead floating amongst all the avionics in the shuttle and space station!

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krisp14u



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

v-un-v wrote:
Come on guys, get real. The dx100 was a toy, which just happened to become a 'classic'.


the Keys are from a toy yes but the synth has balls

To stay on topic I have a DX100 called Buster Gonard and it also has allot of knacked keys Shocked

I don't care as my fingers are too fat to play them I just hang it on the wall and play from MIDI Laughing

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v-un-v
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

krisp14u wrote:
v-un-v wrote:
Come on guys, get real. The dx100 was a toy, which just happened to become a 'classic'.


the Keys are from a toy yes but the synth has balls


I never said it didn't (have 'balls'). But it is built like 'a toy' compared to it's bigger sister, the DX27, which is identical, but built like a tank (I know this because I had a dx100, but I still have a dx27!)

The Aphex Twin most definitely had this lovely synth. SAW2 just seems to waft from its output! Cool

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ALLES TURISTEN UND NONTEKNISCHEN LOOKENPEEPERS!
DAS KOMPUTERMASCHINE IST NICHT FÜR DER GEFINGERPOKEN UND MITTENGRABEN! ODERWISE IST EASY TO SCHNAPPEN DER SPRINGENWERK, BLOWENFUSEN UND POPPENCORKEN MIT SPITZENSPARKSEN.
IST NICHT FÜR GEWERKEN BEI DUMMKOPFEN. DER RUBBERNECKEN SIGHTSEEREN KEEPEN DAS COTTONPICKEN HÄNDER IN DAS POCKETS MUSS.
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

esnabez wrote:
Sorry, my post may have been misleading by using the phrase "ordinary pencil graphite". A basic "No. 2" pencil's graphite may be too hard (mixed with too much clay) to be of much use.

What you should look for is an artists drawing pencil. Pure graphite is naturally soft, so to make different grades of hardness, the graphite is mixed with clay. You want one with the purest graphite possible. A "9B" is preferable. And you must grind it into a powder. Just drawing on the contact with the pencil tip usually doesn't work.

Having said all this, I realize that not everyone has an art supply store nearby. Another option is to buy graphite dry lubricant powder from a hardware store. For example: http://cpc.farnell.com/ck-tools/t6283a/graphite-dry-lubricant-powder/dp/ME18361

Pure graphite powder adheres to rubber easily. I've never had a problem getting it to stick to rubber contacts by applying it with a cotton swab. Be careful though, being a powder it can get messy. Go slowly and build it up in layers. The contacts should have the silvery-gray shine of a pencil tip when you're done.


I see, i was applying this to the PCB contacts and not the rubber strip. I have a 9B pencil here, I'll let you know how I get on applying it (as dust) to the rubber strip Wink

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Dego



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Did it work? Smile
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Dego



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I used this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/KEYPAD-FIX-Permanently-Repairs-All-Rubber-Keypads_W0QQitemZ300365667824QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45ef305df0

and now my keyboard is working like new again. Very Happy
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kpatz



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Dego wrote:
I used this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/KEYPAD-FIX-Permanently-Repairs-All-Rubber-Keypads_W0QQitemZ300365667824QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45ef305df0

and now my keyboard is working like new again. Very Happy
How is it after a couple months now?

I just snagged a DX100 on ebay, that was listed as having only 1 working key. I got it yesterday, took it apart, cleaned the PCB contacts and rubber strip, but it didn't help; if anything, it made things worse. So I ordered a jar of that "keypad fix" in hopes it will work as well on mine as you say it did on yours.

Since I bought it to use as a portable keyboard I really want the keys to work... if I wanted a module I would have gotten a TX81Z or something. Wink
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Dego



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 2:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Still works. Smile Hooked it up today just to try it again. But it works great. Smile
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strategy



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

My DX100 keys work fantastically, but the function and patch editing buttons are getting really difficult, I have to press really hard on some of them to make contact.

I haven't opened it up to see what the button contacts are like (as compared to the key contacts.)

One trick on gear with a metallic contact surface is to actually take the ERASER end of a pencil and erase off oxidation.

Anyone have "desensitized" DX100 buttons and know how to resolve?

Strategy

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kpatz



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The buttons are membrane contacts as well and they can be restored with the same stuff as the keys. On mine the buttons were fine but I treated them and cleaned the PCB contacts as well, now they work even better.

The keys work now too, but a few are still dicey so I'll have to put another coat on the keybed strip. But at least I have a DX100 that is playable now.
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LektroiD



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Dego wrote:
I used this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/KEYPAD-FIX-Permanently-Repairs-All-Rubber-Keypads_W0QQitemZ300365667824QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45ef305df0

and now my keyboard is working like new again. Very Happy


I used the same stuff, mixed it well, painted it onto the graphite PCB contacts individually. The buttons work like new, but the keyboard is still the same. I'm wondering if it could be the rubber strip that's at fault, rather than the PCB contacts.

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kpatz



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The PCB contacts don't need the Keypad Fix applied, just clean those real good with a pencil eraser and some rubbing alcohol. The rubber strip is what loses conductivity, and that's what needs the coating applied.
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bonusplays



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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hate to bring this thread back 2 years later, but has anybody had the carbon fix (the one on ebay above) simply just bead up and flow off of the black rubber strip when fixing the DX100 keys? I cleaned the strip multiple times with isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth but the contact restorer still isn't sticking on.

Should I just apply A LOT and let it build up over multiple applications?

I asked a friend who does stereo repair in town if he had fixed carbon-rubber contacts before and he winced pretty hard and said they were a real pain.

Folks who've fixed their keys, please get in touch, I'd love to chat about it.

-Scott
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kpatz



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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

It can be tricky getting the goop to adhere to the rubber DX100 strip. Try stirring the stuff thoroughly before applying, then put a fairly thick coat on. Let it dry before reassembling the keybed.
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placemat



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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 1:02 am    Post subject: Dx100 contact strip
Subject description: Making the carbon strip conductive again...
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I bought some conductive glue which you just paint on with a small art brush. It brings the keys back to life.
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