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Cacophonator Strip Board
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 787

Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi,

You need to connect your battery positive to the + on the digram three rows up above the IC or chip. The minus of your battery goes to the point two rows down below the IC. (This is the three parallel lines symbol)

If you connect your power elsewhere on the board, such as the top left, you may run into problems. Although you could run your minus or earth wire from the battery to the second hole down on the left of the board, the + or positive could not simply be soldered in the hole above it. Your LED may blow at 9V. You need the + to go between R15 and R10.

I'm still confused about the four wire connections and C8 and C3 having them too....

EDIT: You could run the (-) wire from your battery to the hole directly below the (+) symbol on the diagram. This way you wouldn't have to split the red and black joined wired on those 9V battery clips to reach the bottom of the board.
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Nyxaudio



Joined: Jul 07, 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Nz

PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.[/img]

the red circles are around the 4 wire connections i can identify
i am unsure if the parts marked in blue are also wire connections or just how the component should be soldered on

thanks heaps for your help man
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elmegil



Joined: Mar 20, 2012
Posts: 2043
Location: Chicago
Audio files: 16

PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Generally that indicates that you extend the leads of whatever the component is so that it spans that many rows....
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 787

Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yes, it is what elmegil just said. I can see the confusion though.

Some of those resistors are mounted upright. R1, R2, and R3 span three holes and are bridging the jumper wire which you circled in red on the left.

Also, C7 is a large capacitor and is shown mounted upright. You may find a different style with two legs at the same end. Whatever the type, mount it between the first and second row of holes in that position.
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Nyxaudio



Joined: Jul 07, 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Nz

PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

when you say bridging , you mean that it goes over the top of the wire with out touching? is that correct

thank you both so much you are a huge help!!!!
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 787

Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 2:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Sorry about the confusion. It should look like this:


Resistors 3.jpg
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Resistors 3.jpg


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Nyxaudio



Joined: Jul 07, 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Nz

PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

thanks heaps guys, my build was a success
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Ilmomi



Joined: Aug 10, 2015
Posts: 1
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi!

A newbie problem...

Just built this with a 9v negative tip jack. Now i have a problem: I'm powering Caco and guitar pedals with same 1spot via daisy chain. Whenever I plug an audio cable from the output of the Caco to a pedal, the Caco turns on even when the switch is not turned to the on-position. With individual power supply for Caco everything is ok. I wired a SPST (or a dpdt wired as such) switch along the negative wire coming from the supply jack, does that matter?

Edit: I quess that since the audio plug ring already has the ground, the device only needs +9v from the supply to work, making the switch useless?
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 787

Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi,

I would try and wire the +9v to the switch. It shouldn't be too difficult to switch around. I think you might be right with the audio having the ground supplied already. See if that works.
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apunk



Joined: Nov 11, 2015
Posts: 1
Location: chile

PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hi people!

i wanna built this one, but i dont really understand how connect the input jack..

can i built follow minus´scheme and later added the input jack??

recomendations... Confused


pd1.(my idea is to connect it to a sequencer)

pd2.(sorry my english)
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polcopa



Joined: Apr 24, 2015
Posts: 9
Location: Taiwan

PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I am also searching any info on the input signal. Is it even possible? Do we know if the 4049 or the 4069 is the correct IC?
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
Posts: 202
Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Could somebody help me out?
I’ve built the layout, but after the first start, R10 smoked...replaced it, still smokes. What could be the problem?
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 787

Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello Snapper,

I'd be double checking the cut marks under the stripboard. If that resistor is burning out then something is shorting out there. I know the artwork is confusing, but that is all part of the 'retro' experience Laughing . Is that large capacitor C7 connected correctly? The one illustrated is a so called rat tail capacitor. If you have the other type, with two wires coming from the same end, then make sure it is connected between those top two strips/rails of the stripboard. What about RV5? Is that wired to the correct part of the board? It sounds like the top (+) rail is shorting to the one below which is earth or the (-) of your battery. Check you have all the components in the right place and all the cuts on the bottom are in the right place too. Make sure there are no solder bridges under the board shorting those top two rails together. Get a knife and cut between the top two copper tracks on the reverse of the board.... Confused
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
Posts: 202
Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

-minus- wrote:
Hello Snapper,

I'd be double checking the cut marks under the stripboard. If that resistor is burning out then something is shorting out there. I know the artwork is confusing, but that is all part of the 'retro' experience Laughing . Is that large capacitor C7 connected correctly? The one illustrated is a so called rat tail capacitor. If you have the other type, with two wires coming from the same end, then make sure it is connected between those top two strips/rails of the stripboard. What about RV5? Is that wired to the correct part of the board? It sounds like the top (+) rail is shorting to the one below which is earth or the (-) of your battery. Check you have all the components in the right place and all the cuts on the bottom are in the right place too. Make sure there are no solder bridges under the board shorting those top two rails together. Get a knife and cut between the top two copper tracks on the reverse of the board.... Confused

Hi Minus,

Nope, not confusing at all, honestly, it is a real beauty! Very Happy
The only reason I've planned to build a Cacophonator is this nice layout.

Yap, there was a short, cause now, there is no smoke.
I have an elco there, positive side from the 2nd row.
Is it possible that my Starve pot, RV5 smoked as well?
I can measure the voltage on the input of the pot, but nothing at the other side...actually, the chip doesn't get any voltage :S
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

If there is no (+) V on pin 14 (top right pin) of the chip, then the RV5 potentiometer must be faulty. I have burnt out a few pots myself... as well as burning myself out on pot! Laughing Seriously though, if there is no voltage coming out of the pot, it won't be powering the chip. You could check the pot with a voltmeter... measure the resistance perhaps. I'd say the pot is the problem.
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
Posts: 202
Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

-minus- wrote:
If there is no (+) V on pin 14 (top right pin) of the chip, then the RV5 potentiometer must be faulty. I have burnt out a few pots myself... as well as burning myself out on pot! Laughing Seriously though, if there is no voltage coming out of the pot, it won't be powering the chip. You could check the pot with a voltmeter... measure the resistance perhaps. I'd say the pot is the problem.

That could be because there is no voltage out, and I can't measure any resistance :S
Dang...
Will check the pot!
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PHOBoS



Joined: Jan 14, 2010
Posts: 3948
Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 584

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

-minus- wrote:
I'd say the pot is the problem.

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

_________________
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
Posts: 202
Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

PHOBoS wrote:
-minus- wrote:
I'd say the pot is the problem.

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

So?
Just curiosity, would it work without the starve pot?
Earlier this year I moved my workshop from the studio to my weekend house and I have only a soldering iron and a multimeter here, for creating/fixing cables, I don't have a replacement pot, but I could bypass it for testing...
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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Sure, for testing you can leave it out and just bridge the connections.
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
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Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

One more quick and possibly silly question before I leave to the workshop.
Is it OK if I power this from 12 volts?
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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

yes, 12V is fine.
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
Posts: 202
Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

PHOBoS wrote:
yes, 12V is fine.

Yeah, then fingers crossed.
I'm having a serious grounding problem as well.
I've used this type of DC jack :

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

...instead of the normal plastic black one, now I know, It was a bad idea...
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
Posts: 202
Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

So, finally fixed. Amazing little thing!
My son likes it really :

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

For the paint, I've used my airbrush, with Vallejo model paint (another hobby...), and for weathering, I've used black and brown oil paint, then waterslide decal and 2 layers of clean coat.

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

My only and last issue is the dang Starve pot. It doesn't seem to work properly. I've replaced it, and now, the circuit gets power and you can "Starve" it, but the complete unit stops working if the pot is on 12 o'clock. All the way up it is OK, until the middle, below that, nothing.

And one more "mod" idea-thing. Is it possible to reduce the frequency of the oscillators. For me, it is pretty high, even with pots all the way down. It would be great if I could get real "clicks", so, really really low freq...
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Excellent news! Glad your son likes it too. An aspiring Bob Moog perhaps?

The starve pot... is it 10K? Maybe your value is too large? Also, what is the value of the big capacitor? It should be 2200 uF.

C1, C2, C3, C4, C8, C9 are the capacitors you could make larger in value to lower the pitch of the oscillators. If you wanted to, you could soder a wire from the point on the board where those caps meet the pins of the ic, then join the other end of the wire to a switch and then to a bigger capacitor to GROUND. This way you could add the switches to your panel and switch in and out the bigger caps and have a high/low setting for each oscillator... or simply replace the original caps for larger ones. Try up to 10 times the size they are and see what happens.
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Snaper



Joined: Feb 28, 2014
Posts: 202
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Moog? How knows, but I hope Buchla instead;)
Will check it, so, if Im correct, C1-C4 should be replaced.
(2200 pf to 22n and 10n to 100n)
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