Joined: Apr 04, 2009 Posts: 420 Location: united kingdom
Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 9:42 am Post subject:
STOP man. Take a break. Go for a beer and come back to it later with a fresh head. I've done this more than once and i've gone as far as throwing the f@:@ker against the wall.
ok...panic over. New breadboard. Seems to be working. Need to do some research into the resistor before the volume pot theory... ladies before gents... shovel before shit... The original way seems to have the one volume pot to rule them all thing going on.
I really don't know why I feel compelled to solder crap together. More trouble than what it's worth most of the time. No good for your nerves.
Oh look, if I want to chew up valuable informative forum space with this sort of rant, I should go and do it in the chat room! I'll post some results when I have something valid to say....
ouch! just tried the white noise generator section.... Q2 got really hot! This cannot be right! I am using BC 547 transistors. The only noise I hear is the obscene language coming from my mouth after I touch the smoldering transistor
ouch! just tried the white noise generator section.... Q2 got really hot! This cannot be right! I am using BC 547 transistors.
Are you sure you didn't put it in with the same orientation as Q1, which is supposed to be "backwards"? _________________ Revenge is a dish best served with a fork... to the eye
I thought that myself.... Tried it again but got same result. Thanks for your comment. No doubt I'll get back to this soon.... Just gone off on a huge 'research' tangent in terms of methods of controlling the oscillations.
I finally put together the Heterodyne Space Explorer and boxed it up this weekend.
First I want to thank Beavis for posting this and his excellent tutorial. Also, thanks to electri-fire and Uncle Krunkus for their suggestion on how to deal with individual volume control (using a resistor and reversing the pot as electri-fire illustrated in his modified schematic).
I only made some minor changes to Beavis's schematic. First I left out the Sag pot. I then reversed the individual volume pots and added a 22k resistor before the wiper. This allows me to turn off individual oscillators without muting all of them. I also changed the values of the oscillator pots and used what I had on hand. For oscillator 1 & 2 I used a 1M pot with a 10k limiting resistor and a 104 capacitor. For oscillator 3 & 4 I used a 1M pot with a 10k limiting resistor and a 103 capacitor. I also added an Led to indicate when the power was on.
Here is a photo of it:
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When I originally started to breadboard this I wanted to modify it so that each oscillator could put out either a square or triangle wave.
I was able to get a triangle wave out of each 40106 inverter by adding a 100k resistor and 10 uf cap at the input of each inverter. (I got this idea from a schematic in Nicolas Collins Handmade Electronic Music, page 162). The triangle wave worked and I could select either the square or triangle output using a switch. I verified each on my oscilloscope.
But unfortunately when I attached the triangle wave output to the wiper of a volume pot, the triangle wave would stop working. I tried inserting a preamp using CD4049 between the triangle output and the volume pot but could never get it to work.
I eventually gave up and just stuck with the 4 square waves.
Anyhow, here is a photo with labels added (I just typed them over the picture in MS paint).
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I'm just looking at the original diagram at the top of page one and comparing it to your diagram...
If you look at say pin 1 of your 40106, you have it going to a 1.5K resistor then to a 2.2uF capacitor going to GROUND. You are then taking that ground connection and running the green wire to your pot.
If you compare it to the original diagram you will see the difference. The 1.5K resistor goes from pin 1 to the pot. Pin one also goes through the capacitor and then to GROUND.
I would de-solder the resistor and put a link on your board where the cut is. Mount a 1.5K resistor upright at pin 1 and take the other leg to the green wire. Alternatively you could run the green pot wire to pin 1 and solder the 1.5K resistor to the pot leg and attach the green wire to the other leg. Same thing.
I think the reason you are getting no sound is that you are taking the pot wires from ground and not from pin 1, pin 3, pin 5 etc. You should be able to check each oscillator at pin 2, pin 4, pin 6, and pin 12 in your case.
I assume the other side of the battery is connected to ground?
Here you go, it's a bit messy, but it works. PDF, PNG and DIY Layout Creator files, in case you want to poke around and improve it, and some other bits that helped me out.
Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 7:42 am Post subject:
Birth of a beast...
Hello all... I've been reading this thread for a few weeks now. I stumbled across it during my search for info about building a HSE or a WSG, and let me give a giant thank you to the contributors to this thread because without finding this, I would not have been able to build my own monster of a cross-breed drone box.
Details:
Neon yellow/green clear acrylic faceplate
4 X OSC
2 X LFO
Resonant filter (taken from WSG)
Panic button (taken from Cacophonator)
Voltage sag
Switchable capacitors for each OSC (for a bit of variety with OSC range)
LEDs for each OSC (no idea how I figured this out, probably from Beavis)
Let's see if I can manage to attach some photos and a link to a video of the monster on youtube...
nice work! I like it a lot, good combination of circuits and nice enclosure. _________________ There he goes. One of God's own prototypes. A high-powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live, and too rare to die.
Hunter S. Thompson movies noise
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