Some questions about the CGS01 Sub Oscillator

Flareless · Joined: Jan 16, 2016 Posts: 24 Location: Ontario, Canada

I'm nearing completion of my CGS01 but I've run into several questions which have put the brakes on the build. First I must apologize if I'm missing something obvious as I'm a new DIY builder with VERY limited electronics knowledge;

My first questions is about the jumper leads. I have installed the one below the 4030 and one by the ferrite bead. When I look at the build diagram on Ken's page, however, it appears there are more that are required...

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Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

On the right side of the board it looks like one should be installed at the IOUT and LEVEL* locations. Additionally there are what appear to be jumpers required in the centre of the board at Channel A (1,2,3) and below that at 0,7,6,5,4. There are also a pile at the mixer section. What confuses me is that on the underside of my PCB there are no solder pads at most of these locations. Only holes.

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The IOUT and LEVEL* sections do have 2 available pads (left side of the photo), however, they are separated by holes without pads as well. Do I require more jumpers? If so... where?

My second question is What's up with all those holes?!? They seem to serve no purpose?

My final question involves the potentiometers. My intention is to wire the Version 2 board with 8 potentiometers and 3 toggle switches. The trouble is that the diagram indicating wiring of the potentiometers does not match the version of the board I am using.

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In the centre of this diagram the switches are wired to "Channel B". My PCB and the above PCB diagram have this labelled as "Channel A". Even the right side of this diagram has different resistor values; 2x1K and 1x47K versus 1x330R and 1x47K. Do I wire the \1, \2, \4 and \8 pots only? Is the centre label on this diagram wrong and these are actually Channel A pots? My intention is to wire MOLEX connectors to the potentiometer connections so I can more easily remove the PCB from the panel should there be a problem (plus I feel it's tidier and more sturdy) so I want to make sure I put them in the right place.

Thanks for reading this and I would greatly appreciate any help you can provide. I apologize again for my naiveté as a builder.

AlanP · Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 9:12 pm Post subject:

The holes with no pads, next to pads for wires, are most likely strain relief. The idea is that you poke the wire up through the hole, strip some insulation off, and bend it 180 degrees back into the pad right next to it.

Flareless · Joined: Jan 16, 2016 Posts: 24 Location: Ontario, Canada

@AlanP - Thanks for the reply! I was thinking that was what they might be.

Almost 100 post views.... can anyone answer my other questions?

wackelpeter · Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 2:19 pm Post subject:

Maybe i can have a look tomorrow for your other questions...

But as you wrote you used a link instead of ferrite bead i would suggest you to use a 10-15 ohm resistor...
the reason is that it not only keeps unwanted noise from your power rails, it also give some protection when you have a short somewhere... it glows and smokes then and handles musst of the current and in this way protects the other components... if you don't look to long at the fascinating smoke signs and quickly turn the power off... Wink

Flareless · Joined: Jan 16, 2016 Posts: 24 Location: Ontario, Canada

Cfish · Joined: Feb 24, 2016 Posts: 450 Location: Indiana

I know this is an older poste, but I was curious if you ever got this going flareless? I'm currently building one on perfboard.

Flareless · Joined: Jan 16, 2016 Posts: 24 Location: Ontario, Canada

Cfish · Joined: Feb 24, 2016 Posts: 450 Location: Indiana

Thanks flareless.

I will check out your build link.

The key to building on perf is to design your modular with really big modules.

At 10 inches tall (25 cm) my modules can take really big perf board. This looks pretty easy to perf for my synth.

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