| Author |
Message |
Flareless
Joined: Jan 16, 2016
Posts: 27
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
 Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 11:50 am Post subject:
Some questions about the CGS01 Sub Oscillator |
  |
|
I'm nearing completion of my CGS01 but I've run into several questions which have put the brakes on the build. First I must apologize if I'm missing something obvious as I'm a new DIY builder with VERY limited electronics knowledge;
My first questions is about the jumper leads. I have installed the one below the 4030 and one by the ferrite bead. When I look at the build diagram on Ken's page, however, it appears there are more that are required...
On the right side of the board it looks like one should be installed at the IOUT and LEVEL* locations. Additionally there are what appear to be jumpers required in the centre of the board at Channel A (1,2,3) and below that at 0,7,6,5,4. There are also a pile at the mixer section. What confuses me is that on the underside of my PCB there are no solder pads at most of these locations. Only holes.
The IOUT and LEVEL* sections do have 2 available pads (left side of the photo), however, they are separated by holes without pads as well. Do I require more jumpers? If so... where?
My second question is What's up with all those holes?!? They seem to serve no purpose?
My final question involves the potentiometers. My intention is to wire the Version 2 board with 8 potentiometers and 3 toggle switches. The trouble is that the diagram indicating wiring of the potentiometers does not match the version of the board I am using.
In the centre of this diagram the switches are wired to "Channel B". My PCB and the above PCB diagram have this labelled as "Channel A". Even the right side of this diagram has different resistor values; 2x1K and 1x47K versus 1x330R and 1x47K. Do I wire the \1, \2, \4 and \8 pots only? Is the centre label on this diagram wrong and these are actually Channel A pots? My intention is to wire MOLEX connectors to the potentiometer connections so I can more easily remove the PCB from the panel should there be a problem (plus I feel it's tidier and more sturdy) so I want to make sure I put them in the right place.
Thanks for reading this and I would greatly appreciate any help you can provide. I apologize again for my naiveté as a builder. |
|
|
Back to top
|
|
 |
AlanP
Joined: Mar 11, 2014
Posts: 602
Location: New Zealand
Audio files: 35
|
| Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 9:12 pm Post subject:
|
|
|
| The holes with no pads, next to pads for wires, are most likely strain relief. The idea is that you poke the wire up through the hole, strip some insulation off, and bend it 180 degrees back into the pad right next to it. |
|
|
Back to top
|
|
|
Flareless
Joined: Jan 16, 2016
Posts: 27
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 11:33 am Post subject:
|
|
|
@AlanP - Thanks for the reply! I was thinking that was what they might be.
Almost 100 post views.... can anyone answer my other questions? |
|
|
Back to top
|
|
|
wackelpeter
Joined: May 05, 2013
Posts: 453
Location: germany
Audio files: 10
|
| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 2:19 pm Post subject:
|
|
|
Maybe i can have a look tomorrow for your other questions...
But as you wrote you used a link instead of ferrite bead i would suggest you to use a 10-15 ohm resistor...
the reason is that it not only keeps unwanted noise from your power rails, it also give some protection when you have a short somewhere... it glows and smokes then and handles musst of the current and in this way protects the other components... if you don't look to long at the fascinating smoke signs and quickly turn the power off... 
_________________
https://soundcloud.com/bastian-j |
|
|
Back to top
|
|
|
Flareless
Joined: Jan 16, 2016
Posts: 27
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 2:29 pm Post subject:
|
|
|
| wackelpeter wrote: | Maybe i can have a look tomorrow for your other questions...
But as you wrote you used a link instead of ferrite bead i would suggest you to use a 10-15 ohm resistor... |
Sorry if I wasn't clear. If you re-read the post you'll see I wrote "by the ferrite bead". I meant that according to the diagram and the PCB I'm building that the jumper was installed to the right of the ferrite bead. Not instead of it. I have 2 ferrite beads installed in their correct locations.
I was wondering if aside from the 2 jumpers I've installed there were any others. |
|
|
Back to top
|
|
|
Cfish
Joined: Feb 24, 2016
Posts: 473
Location: Indiana
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2016 5:54 pm Post subject:
|
|
|
| I know this is an older poste, but I was curious if you ever got this going flareless? I'm currently building one on perfboard. |
|
|
Back to top
|
|
|
Flareless
Joined: Jan 16, 2016
Posts: 27
Location: Ontario, Canada
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2016 6:33 pm Post subject:
|
|
|
| Cfish wrote: | | I know this is an older poste, but I was curious if you ever got this going flareless? I'm currently building one on perfboard. |
I did get it completed. Actually I've built several. Two are in my modular and I've sold the others. In fact I have two on my bench now. One is sold and the second will be for sale as soon as my potentiometer order arrives.
The build is tricky at first but once you get the knack it's a snap. I've documented my build and provided diagrams of my wiring layout on my site here.
The modules are really excellent and very useful. I really enjoy what they bring to my system.
Good luck with your build! Wow, perfboard. You've got more guts than me!! If you have any questions please post them and I'll answer them if I can.
_________________
Rich
Lower West Side Studio
Fizzbin on SoundCloud |
|
|
Back to top
|
|
|
Cfish
Joined: Feb 24, 2016
Posts: 473
Location: Indiana
|
|
|
Back to top
|
|
|
|
Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Ken Stone designs - CGS
FAQ
Calendar
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
Chat Room
