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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software
Cacophonator Strip Board
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 761

Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 1:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

OK, well that makes sense. Clearly 2000AD has appropriated Mr Joyce in the series, Sinister Dexter... which doesn't surprise me in the least. Finnegan Sinister and Ramone Dexter are two bullet monkeys from a future Europe called Downlode.

And the moral of this off topic rant is, I should be reading the classics, not comics Laughing !
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idxsem



Joined: Sep 10, 2010
Posts: 8
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Okay, thanks for all the help so far. I have most of the parts, and am waiting on the rest.

One pretty naive question, the underside vs the components side: is the picture of the underside represent the flipped board, i.e. are those cuts going to be on the opposite side when I flip it over, or are they sitting where they would be looking at the board from the component side?
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Gordon Charlton



Joined: Oct 07, 2006
Posts: 75
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The cuts are going to be on the opposite side when you flip it over. (Flip it left to right, not top to bottom.)

The clue is resistors R1 R2 R3, and R12 R11 R4 - they should each attach to the board on either side of a cut.

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idxsem



Joined: Sep 10, 2010
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

thanks so much. Is this a general rule when reading layouts?
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Gordon Charlton



Joined: Oct 07, 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I don't know - I'm a beginner too. It seems the sensible way to do it though, so probably.
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
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Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 5:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yep... flip left to right, not top to bottom. Not sure what the general rule is, or if there indeed is one. I probably should have indicated this on the diagrams with an arrow on the top of the board or something. Usually with stripboard diagrams you can work out what the deal is by looking at the components and the striboard diagram.

Good luck with the building! Try the Krunkus WSG stripboard if you like this device....

EDIT: Not sure if you know how to do the cuts but I'll explain anyway.... Use a 3MM drill bit and a pin vice if you have one... or a slow cordless drill would be ok. Drill just enough to break the track. Mark out the hole to drill with a permanent marker pen first and double check before you drill! Looking at the underside of the stripboard, just mark the holes/cuts exactly as in the diagram.
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idxsem



Joined: Sep 10, 2010
Posts: 8
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey, I got this working. The set up was pretty simple once I got all the parts. Not housed in anything just yet.

I have another question:
What gauge wire do you think is best to use?
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idxsem



Joined: Sep 10, 2010
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

oh and also, what about an on-off switch for this?
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Gordon Charlton



Joined: Oct 07, 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Just a simple single pole single throw toggle switch on the +ve line from the battery is fine.

Or an antique knife switch if you want to go all steampunk...

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
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Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

WOOOOHOOOO! I should check these forums a bit more often! Good to see you have it working. You can just put a switch along the (+) wire from the battery. It should be self explanatory once you try it.

Nice knife switch illustration too. Very in keeping with the theme! Laughing Instant album cover- just add noise! Twisted Evil
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LektroiD



Joined: Aug 23, 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 2:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Has anyone managed to work out the component numeration on the version with the audio input yet?
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idxsem



Joined: Sep 10, 2010
Posts: 8
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

thanks again for all the help.
I am running into an issue. Turning the 10k pot in certain position, there is no sound whatsoever. Any thoughts?
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blue_lu



Joined: Nov 16, 2009
Posts: 32
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

LektroiD wrote:
Has anyone managed to work out the component numeration on the version with the audio input yet?



hey lectroid, apar from being a little unorthodox in regards to numeration of parts the shem for the cacophonator with input is pretty understandable and it should be easy to build one of these on perf board,no?

I will fix my basic version today and then maybe perf up the advanced version with inout from the layouts posted here.

how about you?
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blue_lu



Joined: Nov 16, 2009
Posts: 32
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ok, so the old unit is disfunctional, even after I applyed the changes of minus' revised layout.

So I am just going to perf the advanced cacophonator from site 2. since this is not the smartest move, please bare with me...
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rosch



Joined: Oct 03, 2009
Posts: 162
Location: germany

PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hi blue_lu, i built it on perfboard from this schematic last winter. works fine.

choklitlove wrote:
updated again:
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
http://www.geocities.com/worthekik//cacophonator.html

thanks a lot you guys. i looked over it and couldn't find anything else, but evidently that's not saying much. i put a link to this topic on the page so everyone will know you guys helped. see any more?


link to the topic:
http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-14440.html
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blue_lu



Joined: Nov 16, 2009
Posts: 32
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

albino head banging monitor rosch thanks for the heads up! the advanced cacophonator from subtle noise maker is already perfed - but the wiring is a major pita.

the led lightens up - so that is a good sign - also no smoke so far Very Happy

I will have to wait for some on-off-on switches from banzai, which can take ages... maybe I will just continue with some on-on switches and skip some cap options. the amount of cabeling drives me insane though...
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blue_lu



Joined: Nov 16, 2009
Posts: 32
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

suprisingly the baby is up and alive. audio input is pretty nutts! Very Happy

I will house her tomorrow.

thanks for posting the layout. it works! (cables are a PAIN )
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blue_lu



Joined: Nov 16, 2009
Posts: 32
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

alright here she is, housed in a standard 1590 enclosure. battery outside.

I hope I will never have to open that case again - this thing is a jungle inside.

but the sounds are nice...

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
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rosch



Joined: Oct 03, 2009
Posts: 162
Location: germany

PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

cool, that looks fine! now i get it, the advanced (hence the name) has much more possibilities than the guy i've built, and, i have a totally ridiculous "case" for mine:
flickr album
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
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blue_lu



Joined: Nov 16, 2009
Posts: 32
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

rosch, very ghetto and cool .

here is a short video of my purple nurple....

Advanced Cacophonator / Cacophonator 2 from Max Mux on Vimeo.

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jean bender



Joined: Feb 21, 2010
Posts: 133
Location: france

PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi Everybody !

I think that i'll build this funny noise maker, but i don't understand one thing in this schematic...

look at fluxmonkey website, looney board part :

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

How work the both oscillators we can see in the down right part of the schematic. They seem to be connected to the ground, so what do they do ? Is it a kind of Lfo ?

Thanks for any help, it's the first time i see that, and it's a bit weird for me !

cheers

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tjookum



Joined: May 25, 2010
Posts: 353
Location: Netherlands
Audio files: 26

PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

judging from the 4.7uF capacitor used it should oscillate at LFO speeds. I don't have a clue why it is not connected to anything.
The only logical explanation I can see is that arthur harrisons wants to show you what you could do with the 2 leftover inverters on the 40106.
Another possiblity might be that it produces crosstalk in the 40106 making it behave in strange ways.

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inlifeindeath



Joined: Apr 02, 2010
Posts: 315
Location: Albuquerque, NM

PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

yes they are LFO's that interact with the starve function of the circuit, very strange design but sounds really cool!
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jean bender



Joined: Feb 21, 2010
Posts: 133
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ok !! Thanks for your answers.

So the starve pot is RV5 ? Could you explain me how acts C7, and also the 2nd switch, "charge" ?

thanks for all !

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inlifeindeath



Joined: Apr 02, 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

yeah RV5 is a starve pot. C7 basically stores current so that when the power source is disconnected, the capacitor slowly discharges. it's really wacky, you really have to hear it to understand it. the charge switch is just a momentary switch that temporarily connects the power source in turn charging and discharging C7.
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