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quick and dirty kick, snare, hat?
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egasimus



Joined: Feb 11, 2011
Posts: 112
Location: Bulgaria

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 5:46 am    Post subject: quick and dirty kick, snare, hat? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'm looking for any basic drum circuits which are to be very simple, but have a lot of character, something with gritty and distorted sounds. Maybe I should ask this in the Lunetta forum instead?
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Dan Lavin



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

you can't beat the monotribe drum section:
http://createdigitalmusic.com/2011/09/korg-releases-monotribe-drum-schematics-mod-and-breadboard-away/

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Cynosure
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You might want to have a look at this thread:

http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-49054.html

Scroll down to the last posted schematic for the updated filters. I am triggering them with a steady clock pulse divided with a 4040, but you could trigger the filters with any gate/clock pulse - although you would need to adjust some of the cap values if the pulses aren't +5V.
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egasimus



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

yup, Cynosure, your thread's what inspired me to do it, and I'm gonna use the 4040 beat generator in my design; I decided to try the 606 kick schematic that has been floating around for a while, and will check the monotribe, too. Thanks Smile
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Cynosure
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'm glad to hear that people are putting my designs to use Very Happy

I have most of my drum circuit soldered up - just working on the case now. I should have a video in a couple of weeks.
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efabric



Joined: Jan 05, 2012
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 7:51 am    Post subject: another design Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

there's also the discrete mini space rockers for a good noises base :
http://ericarcher.net/devices/mini-space-rockers/
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egasimus



Joined: Feb 11, 2011
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

^ hey, those look nice Smile Gonna build myself one of those, too Smile
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frequencycentral



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Dan Lavin wrote:
you can't beat the monotribe drum section:
http://createdigitalmusic.com/2011/09/korg-releases-monotribe-drum-schematics-mod-and-breadboard-away/


Very interesting. anyone built this as a standalone? I'm considering doing some PCB layouts.....

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Paradigm X



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Korg prob won't be too happy as currently in production. However richard c64 posted a load of mods at the deathlehem forum check it out. If its sufficiently different ... Wink
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egasimus



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I perfboarded the 606 kick with a TL072 (didn't have a 358), and it didn't work. I ran it from a 9V battery (a pretty stale one, though) and tried triggered it from V+ through a 47k resistor; output plugged direct to headphones. I know that just about everything's wrong about my setup, but I didn't have the time for anything better Smile

So, can this circuit run off 9V? And how do I trigger it?
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inlifeindeath



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

TL072 doesn't swing rail to rail, seems that the bare minimum it will run on is +/-6v (12v). The LM358 is designed to run on a single supply, so should work on 9v.
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richardc64



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

inlifeindeath wrote:
TL072 doesn't swing rail to rail, seems that the bare minimum it will run on is +/-6v (12v). The LM358 is designed to run on a single supply, so should work on 9v.


The TL072, or most any other op amp can be made to function single-supply by biasing the + input to around half the supply voltage -- which is what the 606 circuit does.

egasimus wrote:
I perfboarded the 606 kick with a TL072 (didn't have a 358), and it didn't work. I ran it from a 9V battery (a pretty stale one, though) and tried triggered it from V+ through a 47k resistor; output plugged direct to headphones. I know that just about everything's wrong about my setup...

masterful understatement

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egasimus



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
masterful understatement


Yup.

I'm using this circuit. Looking at the original 606 schematic, the supply voltages involved are 5V, 6V, and 15V. Nothing bipolar needed, it seems. What does the trigger pulse look like, though
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richardc64



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

That schematic is incomplete. Here's one that shows the biasing network. Unfortunately, the schematic I have is also incomplete, in that it doesn't show the voltage that powers the transistors that provide the trigger. Considering the ratio of R63 & R64, if the voltage is 15V, it's about 1.5V when it reaches that 0.47uF cap, but if it's 5V then it's only 0.5V at the cap. Try leaving out R63 and put a 5V pulse on R64. Should be a couple of milliseconds duration -- not more than 10.

It looks like the voltage divider on the op amp (+) input gives closer to 2/3 V+ than 1/2.

"Quick and Dirty" is often not as quick as one would like. And while not exactly "dirty", ringing oscillators like these and those of the DR-110 and Monotripe need a lot of tinkering to modify for effects, or to adapt to different supply voltages. Just sayin'...


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Dougster



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

richardc64 wrote:
Monotripe

I want one of those...

Regards,
Doug (Music with Menudo anyone?)

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defog



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I programmed an arduino to send midi triggers to all of the sounds on a TR-606, and it was a pain in the ass because the timings are all different. Check out Eric Archers info on triggering: http://ericarcher.net/devices/tr808-clone/
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MickeyDelp



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 4:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Egasimus, it seems like Cynosure's super-cool UM-TSS is exactly what you need given that you were looking for "something with gritty and distorted sounds."

For a less gritty sound, I love the damped sine waves that you get from the bridged-T circuit shown above in the 606 (and used in the 808 and many other drum machines). I use +/- 4.5 volts from a 9V supply. I like the TLE2426 rail splitter, but a simple resistor divider will give you a useable virtual ground. The TL072 works fine at this voltage and sounds cleaner to me than the LM358. I trigger my drums with a microcontroller, but have also generated the pulses using a CD40106 powered by +4.5V and vGnd.

If anyone is interested, I'll post a complete schematic.

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richardc64



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

MickeyDelp wrote:
If anyone is interested, I'll post a complete schematic.


Always happy to see schematics. They're like pr0n to me.

What--?

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MickeyDelp



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Happy to oblige! The bridged-t circuit needs a short (5-10 ms) pulse. This Schmitt trigger relaxation oscillator is just one of a thousand ways of producing a pulse. The output is a pulse because the diode shorts out the resistor on the discharge cycle of the oscillator.

So, as you can see and hear, it works fine on +/- 4.5 volts and a simple resistor divider provides a good enough virtual ground. If you are going to be powering more chips, then you might need a more stable vground. This is one of the best writeups I have read on virtual grounds.

Usual caveats: Uncommitted CMOS inputs should be tied to ground or V+ and uncommitted op amps should have positive input connected to ground and negative input connected to output.


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On the breadboard and through the amp!

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Cynosure
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You got a youtube channel to post the vid? Full res hd doesn't run too well (especially when I have ableton, winamp and oscilloscope running the the background).
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MickeyDelp



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Sure. Here it is.

Also, forgot to show the output on the schematic. Probably obvious, but it is at the output of the op amp, through a 1uF cap.

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beep



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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

40106 does not work when I connect it'S ground to the virtual ground.
please help Sad
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elmegil



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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Do you have more than one chip so you can test another and be sure it's not a bad chip?

Other than that I think you need to explain what you've done and tested so far to get a better idea how to help.
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beep



Joined: May 05, 2013
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

First of all Thank you for sharing this schematic!
People like you are giving a big gift to people like me.
True analog drums... *__* <3 :DDD

back to troubleshooting...

It's weird. The chip was okay. It's a HEF40106, not a cc40106.

Got it working after some changes.

The ground of the audio output jack or plug has to be the virtual ground, not the ground of the power supply, which is -4,5v in this case.

Then the trigger oscillator cap on the 40106 input had to be connected to the
real ground (-4,5v) to make the circuit work correctly. I also had to remove the two 1k-resistors at the connection between the trigger pulse output and
the resonance filter input.

is the cc40106 different from the HEF40206?

On breadboard, the 40106 always causes lots of humming noise.
soldered it on stripboard, no noise. Weird. Is a breadboard generally
known for catching more electric noise??
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elmegil



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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Breadboards have lots of stray capacitance.

The output ground thing makes sense to me.

Would the 1K's work if the second one connected to the 'real ground' like the cap? I would think that might be an important factor.
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