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 Forum index » Clavia Nord Modular » Nord Modular G2 Discussion
Does anyone has been able to fix an USB damaged board?
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voltage control



Joined: Mar 11, 2010
Posts: 5
Location: another world

PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Sorry, but I did not take pictures there. Basically you have no choice anyway: everything has to be removed before you put the new one in. But if you use the cutting-through-the pins method as I did to remove the chip, you will get a clear view of the field once the chip body is removed and you can figure out all the connections from there. (I am pretty confident that the board is traced on 2 sides only and that there is no triple layer, at least not in the area we are dealing with) . For cutting the pins, use a fine sharp knife and don't apply too much pressure. Rather cut though the pins with multiple shallow cuts as opposed to one deep cut. The chipquick desoldering material that is demonstrated at the curious inventor website might be a safer way to remove the chip by the way. I first tried a desoldering vacuum pump and solder wick to remove the IC but this did not feel like it was going to work out well, so I decided to cut through the pins.

I know this stuff feels kind of like like jumping in the cold water. I have done a lot of soldering on electronics and I always thought that this fine stuff was suitable for robots only. But after having replaced this USB chip, I am quite surprised at how easy it actually turned out to be. I hope to be hearing the next succes story from you Neon Sega!
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kslight



Joined: Feb 23, 2009
Posts: 41
Location: KC

PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I was able to replace my USB port on the G2 engine fine. Tedious but well worth no throwing the unit away, you know? I think any competent tech should be able to do this for you at a reasonable charge if you do not feel comfortable doing it yourself.
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spixycat



Joined: May 06, 2012
Posts: 9
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I bought a dead board for a $1 a while ago, this might be the problem with that board which schematics are here :

http://tiny.cc/or6vdw

are you guys talking about the same board? U24 is the USB controller I think but I can't see on the schematics that it is a ISP1181BDGG on "my" PCB there is a PDIUSBD12 from Philips

Question : since I've got only the PCB: can I control the Nord Electro 2 Main board from a PC via USB when there is no Control panel at all attached?
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Blue Hell
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Joined: Apr 03, 2004
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Location: The Netherlands, Enschede
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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

spixycat wrote:
are you guys talking about the same board?


Nope, a Nord Electro is not a Nord Modular 2 - it may still use the same USB circuitry of course ...

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spixycat



Joined: May 06, 2012
Posts: 9
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

thanks blue hell: sorry but I am a greenhorn Smile can you suggest where I can post my Nord Electro 2 questions?

Sorry for interrupting guys and will done those brave hearts that replaced the USB controller chip them selfs.

What an option could be, or no, what you always can do is practice using an old router or whatever with a similar housing (TSOP) and practice, try it and when confident start working on the real board.

I would suggest to use a Dremel and put it on max speed and cut very carefully the chip appart so that only the pins from the chips are still there, take them away uing a weller with a very fine tip (0,8 mm) one by one. Another option is to add more solder carefully and quickly and use a ie dentist hook to bent each "pin" one by one.

When all the pins are gone : use de-solder wire that will suck up the remaining solder, see http://youtu.be/2hpHez1I2rc but note: don't cut that desolder wire but move it along when it is filled with solder so that u need to heat the pin up only once (because they are tiny heating them up as shown in that video is sufficient, the PCB used in the video is an old model)

Hope this helps and these are my 2 cents...
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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

spixycat wrote:
can you suggest where I can post my Nord Electro 2 questions?


Sure Smile

I'll move this thread to a better place.

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spixycat



Joined: May 06, 2012
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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

dank je Jan
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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hmm, we dont have an electro-spot ... this will have to do I guess, Wout that OK?
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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hmm .. I moved the wrong one Shocked

Lemme see what I can fix Confused

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exeterdown



Joined: Oct 13, 2013
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Had posted this:
http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-60701.html

But then found this thread.
I guess I feel a lot better knowing it's a known issue.

Is there a particular cause or was it inevitable mine would die?

I'm not confident to DIY, what kind of tech am I looking for if I wanted someone else to do it?

Is there a G2 schematic pdf or any info I could give to a tech if I found one?

Thanks!
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LLR3



Joined: Sep 10, 2004
Posts: 41
Location: Helsinki Finland

PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 5:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Authorised Nord repair centers have an inexpensive routine fix for the problem. Fried USB chip gets replaced with a fresh one and also an additional patch (hehe!) is put into place to make sure the same won't happen ever again!

My second Engine (s/n 502) USB got fried pretty soon after I got it a year ago. The previous owner told the unit had stayed in the rack mostly untouched. (Original firmware was still in place and no user patches had been saved on board.) My first Engine (s/n 027) has never had any problems despite having been in pretty much daily use since - err - was that 2005 the G2 Engine came out?

PS. It seems I have a bit of a blind spot on "pinned" but still active threads. I wish even the pinned threads would appear on the regular active topics list when a new post is made.
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drxcm



Joined: Jun 13, 2006
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Location: Hamilton, New Zealand
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Does this just affect the Engine, or does it affect the G2 keys too?
Is it an inevitable failure?
Is there anything you can do to 'protect' against a problem?

Many thanks!
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exeterdown



Joined: Oct 13, 2013
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I sent mine to the local Akai and Clavia dealer and they posted it off to Clavia in Sweden. I got it back about a month later and it cost me about AU$400. I am so happy to have it back. Bought a G2 Engine to pass the time ;p
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Nemydom



Joined: Mar 23, 2015
Posts: 1
Location: Auckland

PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I spent 4 hours with my new, second hand nord engine, but could not make it working.

It seems something wrong with it. The power led is 'on', but that's it. I try to connect it by different usb cables to 3 different computers, win 7, mac and Xp, but there is no result: the computers don't see it via usb and the usb led doesn't light up. It looks like it is not discoverable via usb, so I can't even install the driver.
I also connected it by MIDI cable to my other synth - there is no sound and the midi led doesn't light up.

I've also done everything to enter Update Mode manually as per page 140 of the user manual v1.40:

"On the G2 Engine, press the “hidden” button inside the hole to the right of the G2 logotype and power on the synth. First, the MIDI LED lights up, then the USB LED lights up and finally both LEDs light up."

Unfortunately its not happening: when I power on the synth with the pressed “hidden” button - the both MIDI and USB LED do not lights up.

I know it can be difficult to connect it to a modern computers, that is why I try WIN XP... But the problem entering the Update Mode manually looks like a real trouble.

What do you think about it?
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exeterdown



Joined: Oct 13, 2013
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'd talk to the person you bought it from or email Clavia.
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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

On the Mac (OSX 10.5.8 and 10.10.2 tried here) you do not need drivers, and the USB light on the G2 will only go on when you run the editor software.

But it is odd the the PCs do not show the "New Hardware found" dialog - that is not very promising Confused

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Slyde



Joined: Jul 23, 2008
Posts: 7
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi, I'm the guy that sold him the unit second hand, how embarrassing as it was working fine last time I used it a few months ago. We took the top off the unit tonight. It definitely powers up and the power LED comes on, but it won't receive on USB or Midi, so I think this is more than just a fried USB chip. The midi and USB LEDs never light with any type of connections.
The connector from the power board to the main board seems to be OK and I can measure a little voltage at some of the pins on the expansion socket so I am ??presuming??? that power is getting to the main board.
Any bright ideas anyone??
Cheers
BTW I gave him his money back Smile
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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 2:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

At power on .. do the MIDI and USB lights go on momentarily?
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Slyde



Joined: Jul 23, 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

No, nothing. But you can hear a little momentary noise if you put on headphones and turn the unit on.
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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Looks like the control program does not run then on the main board ... hmm its a long time ago since I opened an engine . .there are no ICs in sockets I think ... when there are they may have come loose during transport ... or any thing socketed in fact.
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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Did you measure the supply voltages as they come out of the PSU? I think there are labels on the PSU stating what they should be ...
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Slyde



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'm no expert and didnt see any printed specs but I got between 16 and 18 volts across the pins where the cable joins the power board to the main board.
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Slyde



Joined: Jul 23, 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yeah there didnt seem to be anything loose and everything looks mint, no dust etc. I even took out the boards and examined the solders underneath, all mint.
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Blue Hell
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hmm .. ok ... 16 - 18V .. I hope not Confused that seems a bit much ... way much.

Better let an expert look at it.

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Fayette



Joined: Mar 14, 2014
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

this just happened to my g2... no more usb connection... went to my local clavia support store, but it doesn't sound like they are able to deal with it, something about the usb thing that's so small they were scared to deal with it... fuck, what do I do... the G2 is the center of my studio, everything I do evolves around it and I cant afford a new one... holy shit this sucks major ass

:'( AAAARGH

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