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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Lunettas - circuits inspired by Stanley Lunetta
"Little Gate" sequencer
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vaktmesterj



Joined: Jul 24, 2018
Posts: 6
Location: norway

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I want to build this x8 in rows for a drum machine im making for my daughter, where each row triggers individual drum samples from a seperate module.

Does this "still" work, have there been any changes etc?

Any help/advice is greatly apriciated!
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PHOBoS



Joined: Jan 14, 2010
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I am not aware of any changes, except for adding some fancy LEDs, and version 2.0 works.

You mentioned in the pm that you want to use it to trigger drum sounds from a tsunami wav trigger so I don't think you need
the short/long switch. Just hardwire it for the short pulses and that should work fine. The question is how simple/modular do
you want it to be ? because you could also leave out the external reset input and the x1/loop switch (loop is standard mode).

Of course you also need a circuit to provide a clock as it doesn't run by itself. With multiple circuits you could use a master clock
signal for all or have individual clock signals but this depends a bit on how you built it, which brings me to the next point.
It would be most versatile if you make several 'little gate' circuits, this has the advantage that you can set different lengths and
different tempo's for every circuit which can create some very nice patterns. A simple divider like a CD4040 could be used to
run them at different tempo's from one clock source but still have them in sync and you could add a rotary switch for each to
choose a tempo setting.

If however you want to keep it very simple you could get away with using just one 4017 and add more switches in parallel. You'd
also only need one row of LEDs. If you do that I would just use standard toggle switches (without center position) and add a
seperate row for reset switches. (or use a rotary switch, or leave it out if you don't want to change length). Since you mentioned
you want it for your daughter who is still very young this might be easier to understand then having a bunch of toggle switches with
3 positions.

Instead of toggle switches you could also use self latching buttons which might be a bit more kid friendly. They are available in different
colors some with built in LEDs. (for example these)

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vaktmesterj



Joined: Jul 24, 2018
Posts: 6
Location: norway

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

PHOBoS wrote:
You mentioned in the pm that you want to use it to trigger drum sounds from a tsunami wav trigger so I don't think you need
the short/long switch. Just hardwire it for the short pulses and that should work fine.


Yep no need for short/long.

PHOBoS wrote:
The question is how simple/modular do
you want it to be ? because you could also leave out the external reset input and the x1/loop switch (loop is standard mode).
Of course you also need a circuit to provide a clock as it doesn't run by itself. With multiple circuits you could use a master clock
signal for all or have individual clock signals but this depends a bit on how you built it, which brings me to the next point.
It would be most versatile if you make several 'little gate' circuits, this has the advantage that you can set different lengths and
different tempo's for every circuit which can create some very nice patterns.


This would be really nice, it doesnt have to be super-simple functionwise.

PHOBoS wrote:
A simple divider like a CD4040 could be used to
run them at different tempo's from one clock source but still have them in sync and you could add a rotary switch for each to
choose a tempo setting.


This would also be nice, but ive only done a couple of compressor DIY kits before so, my skills limits me to schematics and instructions as for now.
If you got the time, could you explain/draw it up for me?

PHOBoS wrote:
If however you want to keep it very simple you could get away with using just one 4017 and add more switches in parallel. You'd
also only need one row of LEDs. If you do that I would just use standard toggle switches (without center position) and add a
seperate row for reset switches. (or use a rotary switch, or leave it out if you don't want to change length). Since you mentioned
you want it for your daughter who is still very young this might be easier to understand then having a bunch of toggle switches with
3 positions.


The "reset" position; does it make the sequence start over at the beginning?

It would be nice with leds for each row which indicates where the sequence is at and - one row of leds which indicate which step is turned on. Is this easy to implement?
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vaktmesterj



Joined: Jul 24, 2018
Posts: 6
Location: norway

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I did a quick sketch of a hypothetical 3U front panel.
If i loose the reset function, there could be a push-button with led as you suggest, which will free some space - but then again the reset function is nice.

edit: nevermind the 7 rows - there should be 8 but no room for it as of now.

any sugestions?


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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
The "reset" position; does it make the sequence start over at the beginning?

yep. If you don't connect it (or actually connect it to GND as you shouldn't leave it unconnected) the 4017 will step through 0~9 and start with 0 again.
If you would connect it to one of the outputs, for example Q7 it well only step through 0~6 and then start at 0 again.

Quote:
It would be nice with leds for each row which indicates where the sequence is at and - one row of leds which indicate which step is turned on. Is this easy to implement?

Pretty easy to do if you use double pole switches, then you can just use 1 half of the switches to turn the LEDs on/off.

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vaktmesterj



Joined: Jul 24, 2018
Posts: 6
Location: norway

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Okay thanks

Ill get the parts and build a proto to get familiar with the circuit.
Since im a beginner at this i have to ask where the power goes in?
I see the 5+v symbol on the schematic - but wheres the negative?

Edit: can i make it 8 steps, and just hardwire it to reset after the eight?
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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
I see the 5+v symbol on the schematic - but wheres the negative?

It's a single supply circuit so in this case negative is the ground connection (what pin 8 of the 4017 and other components are connected to).

Quote:
can i make it 8 steps, and just hardwire it to reset after the eight?

yes, just connect the reset to Q8 (pin 9) so it will cound from Q0~Q7.

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vaktmesterj



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Are these 1N4148?


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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

yep I used 1N4148 for those, but pretty much any diode should do (no zeners of course) so that's why I didn't label them.

Actually the ones on the clk and reset inputs are NPN transistors, not really critical what you use. I used BC547, but 2N3904 or similar is fine too.

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vaktmesterj



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2018 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

What kind of powersupply would you recommend? Can i use a eurorack?
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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 3:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Anything between +5V...+15V will work so a eurorack PSU is fine. You only need the +12V and GND though and don't
connect any signals (like a clock source) to it that goes below 0V, or add a diode as protection.

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synaesthesia



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You drew little red circles around the emitter diodes of the transistor symbols on the left side as well.
Mind that you should not insert diodes at these places in your circuit. The triangle is a part of the transistor symbol.
Inserting diodes at these places would increase your LOW logic level output and the circuit might not work.
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