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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software
Putting Together The Dim-C Clone - AKA LUSH Deluxe
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jfromel



Joined: May 27, 2008
Posts: 79
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:02 pm    Post subject: Putting Together The Dim-C Clone - AKA LUSH Deluxe Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thought I would start this thread for all the Dim-C kits out there so we could share info on our builds with tips to share with everyone.

1st UP: How to run the Dim-C at 15v for a MOTM power supply.

1. Change IC10 to a 7806 in a 220 case. (It will be a tight fit and you may need to file a hair off the leads). I am ordering some from a few different mfgs to see what will fit the best. you could also hard wire the 7806 in...
a. Pin 1 to 18v Rail
b. Pin 2 to D8
c. Pin 3 to 6v Rail
2. Change C1 to 100uF with a 25v or higher rating.
3. Change R3 and R4 to 2.21K
4. Make sure C3 is 47uF with at least 16v rating.

Also you should check pin 3 of IC 10 and make sure it is not connected to the power plane, visually it looks dangerously close, I have spot tested a few boards here and they are all fine but there may be a couple out there with some tollerance issues.

Many thanks to Paul Schreiber at Synthesis Technology for his help with this.

Last edited by jfromel on Wed Aug 27, 2008 1:07 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Peake



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
Posts: 1112
Location: Loss Angeles
Audio files: 3

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yeah, that power connector is the largest thing on the board :/

I wish the .com were the standard, but what are you gonna do. That or a simple set of IC-size holes for regular wire.

Thanks for the photo in the previous thread, it makes it simple to decode what is a mylar and what is a ceramic (which is my ONLY issue with your -superb- documentation- perhaps as you've indicated T for tantalum, you and others might consider including an M for mylar and a C for ceramic, for those of us digging through our parts drawers, with so many small values involved, which could easily be either mylar or ceramic...).

Thanks again! It's soldering up quite well!

I do notice a pair of drill marks off of switch 3? I suppose that I should read up prior to asking here...haven't checked the switch and pot docs just yet...

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We are selling emotions, there are no emotions in a grid. -mwagener

"IC 741. Sometimes you don't want fidelity." -Small Bear Electronics Catalog
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jfromel



Joined: May 27, 2008
Posts: 79
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Read through your Docs on the switches here is the text from the documentation.....

IMPORTANT: Note on the schematic that pin 1 of SW103 is connected to pin 2 of SW2, SW3, and SW4, on the board pin 1 of SW103 is not connected to anything, you will need to manually connect pin 1 of SW103 to any pin 2 on SW2, SW3, or SW4. A trace that should have been on the top of the board got moved to the bottom and I had to cut the trace. You will notice two small repaired holes on the board on the backside by C402 where I made the cut and repaired the solder mask.

Mylar vs Ceramic!!! What about Mica?

The schem and the kit are as true to the original spec as I could do with easily available parts. As long as the values are correct you should be able to sub substrates without problem.The original spec calls for Ceramic caps on all values 470p and smaller, EL's for everything 1uF and up, film for all the others except fot the Tants.

I am going to make one up with all mica caps for the small values, film for the 1uF and BP's for all the 10uF that are not clamped to ground, and see if there is some more love in there. And also get rid of those Tant's, they tend to sound like icepicks to me. It's my guess that there is a lot more love in there.

The original design had two driving factors in the components, size and expense. Once all the resistors were taken down to .125 watt and mounted vertically they still needed more space, so tiny ceramics and tants helped and 1uF EL cost less and take up less space than a 1uF film cap. Finish it off with the cheapest SIP dual op-amp you can find and Viola! a DC-2 is born.
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numbernone



Joined: Aug 16, 2006
Posts: 477
Location: new york city

PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I will take one for the team of lunkheads and ask...

Could someone shed a bit of light on the functioning of some of the switches? Particularly SW101 and 102.

Also maybe a bit of explanation of SW2/3/4 plus their relationship to SW103/104.

Scott's site shows some of the DPDTs being three positions, ala the beloved C&K 7211. Would these also be the correct switch here?

Is J2 a switching jack? Please forgive my ignorance of these matters, as I pretty much never touch 1/4" jacks of any kind being a bananaphile. Not exactly sure how to wire the inputs.

Board will be done tonight and hoping to get it boxed up soon after. Man do I love kits!! Great work Josh.
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whomper



Joined: Dec 15, 2007
Posts: 200
Location: Israel
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Reading the above thread, I could not help thinking about which components should I choose if I would like to get superior sound and not necessarily an authentication replication.

Which alternative components would I need to choose to get a better sound?

Whomper

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jfromel



Joined: May 27, 2008
Posts: 79
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

SW101 and SW102 engage the expanded LFO range. Your choices are none, one, or both and the C&K 7211 would take care of it. SW2,3,and 4 are for the preset modes on the original DC-2. In conjuntion with SW101 and SW102 you would have more presets.

J2 is a switching jack Mouser link http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Ntt=502-12A

And my name is John, I do have a brother named Josh though:)
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numbernone



Joined: Aug 16, 2006
Posts: 477
Location: new york city

PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Whoops! I am even worse with names on the net than in person.

Thanks for the added info.

Then I guess say hi to your brother for me!
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jfromel



Joined: May 27, 2008
Posts: 79
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Superior sound is very subjective. In my pedal version I have tried using all Burr Brown OPA2134 op-amps and the sound was too soft and warm. I kept the 2134's in the input and output stage and put TL072's in the BBD's and LFO and they sounded great. I think mica's may soften things up too much, don't know.
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caress



Joined: Oct 08, 2007
Posts: 41
Location: brooklyn, ny

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

is an SA571 an appropriate sub for the NE570? pleeease say yes... Surprised
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Peake



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I ordered a batch of 10 570s, for this and other projects. I have a couple that I'd be happy to ship out for nothing. PM me.
_________________
We are selling emotions, there are no emotions in a grid. -mwagener

"IC 741. Sometimes you don't want fidelity." -Small Bear Electronics Catalog
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jfromel



Joined: May 27, 2008
Posts: 79
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The SA571 should work just fine.

Peake, that's pretty generous, good Karma for Peake!
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caress



Joined: Oct 08, 2007
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Location: brooklyn, ny

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

that is incredibly generous, but i'll stick to the sa571 as i have a handful lying about. if i get desperate, though, i'll look you up!
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Spratty



Joined: Oct 08, 2007
Posts: 43
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Greetings to John. I got the package yesterday. Everything was neatly packed and as expected, except for the MN3101's Sad I'll be in contact shortly. Great to see documentation too Smile Great effort.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Just looking at the ingredients to complete this project

Ingredients required to build the DIM-C Clone beyond Fromel's kit:

General

Wire
Solder
DC Jack - I Pref Barrel type. DC.

Switches

SW101 - SPDT
SW102 - SPDT
SW103 - SPDT
SW104 - SPDT
SW105 - SPST
SW2 - SPDT
SW3 - DPDT
SW4 - DPDT
SW501 - SPDT - CV/LFO

+Powerswitch

*SW101 and SW102 could be combined into a C&K 7211 style switch (As per John's post)

Pots

VR1 & VR2 - 100K Log Dual Gang? (Input level)
VR3 - 500K Lin(Depth)
VR4 - 100K Lin(Rate)

J1 TS Style jack - Input think I have some Switchcraft 112AX's around...
J2 Switching Jack like Switchcraft 12A - Input (As per John's post)
J3 Output A - TS
J4 Output B - TS
J501 - CV In - TS

Powersupply

Personally I'll probably be racking mine, so I'm thinking +9VDC wallwart.

Box

I'm thinking 1U rack.

---------------------------------------------

Brain too fragged to figure out SW3 and SW4 at this point. I'm guessing they're poll counted holes 1-6 DPDT correlated, top to bottom (1,3 lhs), left to right (4,6 rhs) with pin one being the square one?

Spratty Wink
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jfromel



Joined: May 27, 2008
Posts: 79
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 1:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

This should help with the switches and yes the square pad is pin 1 and Spratty has been added to the list of people needing replacement clock drivers. If everyone wants me to add the pin numbers to all the off board componenets I can.


Lush DIY Schem with switch pins.pdf
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 Filename:  Lush DIY Schem with switch pins.pdf
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whomper



Joined: Dec 15, 2007
Posts: 200
Location: Israel
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi,

Go the board and ICs today in good order!
Thanks!

Does anyone have a front panel layout to share?
I am looking at making a FRAC format panel for this one and would love to see forum member's ideas!

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Erez Yaary

Home Page: http://www.yaary.com
Buy my CDs at http://www.mellowjet.de
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Peake



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

"1st UP: How to run the Dim-C at 15v for a MOTM power supply."

This is potentially confusing to the beginner who does not have synthesizers yet is building this project. Is it possible to clarify this statement to indicate that is okay to use -any- power supply providing +15V DC at adequate amperage, given the provided board changes? I could even use my Buchla supply, for example.

_________________
We are selling emotions, there are no emotions in a grid. -mwagener

"IC 741. Sometimes you don't want fidelity." -Small Bear Electronics Catalog
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jfromel



Joined: May 27, 2008
Posts: 79
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

If you are a beginner just run this on a 9v 200ma wall wart and it will work fine.

The changes I posted were reccommended to me from the guys at MOTM after they reviewed the schematic.
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Peake



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Fine to say "the guys at" but why cloud the issue with potential confusion about types of power supply? Unless you mean Eagle, Power One, etc. You could even mention that a +15V unipolar supply is fine, without bringing sub-brands into it. "What power supply line can I use?" "15VDC with these mods."

I'll certainly be using a wall wart for this one, and I've stuffed it according to the BOM. Thanks!

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We are selling emotions, there are no emotions in a grid. -mwagener

"IC 741. Sometimes you don't want fidelity." -Small Bear Electronics Catalog
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jfromel



Joined: May 27, 2008
Posts: 79
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

As stated the info for the 15v Power supply mod is from Paul Schreiber at Synthesis Technology and is specifically for the MOTM power supply. Wasnt trying to add any confusion, just trying to accomidate those who would want to run this with a MOTM power module.

I just got my order from mouser and the MC7806CTG regulator fits but it is a tight squeeze.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=%252b9%2fcbd0IE0Tdp0dwQbmOqA%3d%3d
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jfromel



Joined: May 27, 2008
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Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

To everyone who had mn3101's I just received my mn3102's and hope to get them shipped off tomorrow.
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Peake



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Might you have a wiring diagram for those of us who only want a "true" Dimension-C? I'll study what you've included but I don't see a "baseline" version which can be added on to, only an "all options" which isn't as simple to subtract from.

Thanks either way. I should take a good look before asking..

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We are selling emotions, there are no emotions in a grid. -mwagener

"IC 741. Sometimes you don't want fidelity." -Small Bear Electronics Catalog
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jfromel



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here is the Schem for a DC-2 with no extra fluff.

Basically don't install the following.
1. Input buffer
2. CH B input
3. Expanded LFO
4. Rate and dept controls
5. CV Control

Just jumper where necessary to complete the circuit without the added stuff and you will be fine.


Lush Schematic 1.3.pdf
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Peake



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks!
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We are selling emotions, there are no emotions in a grid. -mwagener

"IC 741. Sometimes you don't want fidelity." -Small Bear Electronics Catalog
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numbertalk



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

If anyone has an FPD file for this project that's a panel for a 19-inch rack 1U height that would be greatly appreciated.
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whomper



Joined: Dec 15, 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

numbertalk wrote:
If anyone has an FPD file for this project that's a panel for a 19-inch rack 1U height that would be greatly appreciated.


Even an image would suffice Smile

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Erez Yaary

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Buy my CDs at http://www.mellowjet.de
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