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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Klee sequencer
Electro-Music Klee Sequencer Build and Applications Thread
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fonik



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

cheers, scott.

seems you did some analyzing for me. very appreciated. thank you very much.

cold solder joints?! i don't hope so. however, i will replace the potentiometer a 2nd time, reheat all solder joints in question, and re-insert the IC.

i fear this won't happen before the error occurs again Wink i know myself.

anyways, i wanted to be sure it is not just because of the wiring.
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Sound



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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Scott Stites wrote:

I think the fourth run of Klee boards will include pads for the capacitor, in case anybody runs into the same situation.


Scott Stites wrote:

1. Pin 8 of U10 not making good contact in socket.
2. Cold solder joint at pin 8 of U10 socket.


Well... after assamble the Klee again, I noticed two led that don't work fine, I observed that there are some pins (also digital ground!!!) that not made good contact with the sockets. Also, there was, I suppose, a cold solder making bad connection.
I fixed that and now the Klee has some problem with two detuned pot. Sure it is due a bad wiring, these days sure I connected/disconnected repeatability them in gorila mode.
I will try to fix it but due the cables are a little short and suffer tension and are stretched when I open the box maybe I will wire it again Shocked Laughing

I guess it is the price of learn.

Thanks.
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

One word - Aaaarrrggghhh!
Very Happy

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Sound



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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Laughing
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tommi



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Stupid questions maybe:
Wich are the disadvantages of linking the analog and digital ground toghether?
I am planning to use my electro-music Klee Sequencer with +/-12V supply.
I read this on the build manual:
Quote:
For 12V operation, a value of 1K for R63 – R70 and eliminating (not installing) R71 – R78 will produce 10V level signals with an output impedance of 1K.

I have a doubt about what is ment here for 'not installing': it stands for using bare wire or for not installing anything?
I thought the first answer (bare wire) is the more logic answer, but I want to be sure of that. Thanks, t

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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I think a better term, instead of "not installing" would have been "omit". In other words, you don't want to install anything - no resistors or bus wires.

Tying digital and analog grounds together - you'll likely be OK. After all that careful separation between analog and digital ground on mine, they are pretty much still tied together on my panel. My panel is bare aluminum, and the grounds are connecting together through the jacks.

Just make sure, if you have only one ground going in, to put the W1 jumper in (mentioned on Page 80 of the build doc).

Page 80? Oi...some day I need to learn to scale back Laughing

Cheerios,
Scott

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tommi



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thank you Scott!
Oh, in this case I agree with the words 'not installing'. This is clear.
I thought that omitting that resistors was like interrupting the gate signal.
I guess have to take a better look at the schematics...

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vtl5c3



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 11:32 am    Post subject: Manual Load Enable? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'm making some final tweaks to my front panels as I get going on my Klee assembly. I noticed the Eternal Load Enable option on page 6 of the Front Panel/Interconnect PDF. Has anyone actually implemented that and is it useful? I've got a spot on the panel where it would be easy and logical to add it, but only if it's really a useful feature.
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I use it fairly often - it's more of a handy addition than anything. If you're sequencing with a external load signal (from a divided clock for example), you can flip it on and off to vary the sequence. It's just a way of unplugging the input without having to unplug it.

Cheerios,
Scott

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fonik



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

fonik wrote:
my klee2 run like a charm, almost from the first powering up!

however, unfrequently the A&B output behaves not as it should: the CV glides although i turned the glide pot fully ccw. it happens only sometimes, and when it happens the potentiometer has no effect at all. i did not note any rule here, yet. i rewired this section two times and replaced the potentiometer.
could it be capacitance/cross talk? the wires to the potentiometer are twisted and are tied to the wires going to the jack socket. if, why would it happen for the A&B output only?

i just wanted to give you an update, scott. you kindly did some analyzing for me, which was very appreciated.
however tonight i solved the problem. it is indeed a little bit strange:
as i mentioned before i had replaced the potentiometer already. today i put the klee on my workbench, opened the case, measured the potentiometer and it was fine. i switched on the unit and guess what? the problem was still there, then gone, then not, then again, then... then i replaced the potentiometer once more and all is fine Very Happy
just two faulty potentiometers!

anyways, case closed.

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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Some people have all the luck. Laughing
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Sound



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Very Happy

Im listening a crazy loop directed from my klee. Laughing Cool

Well , he is fixed.

All Saturday i was trying to fix him, i changed the wiring that did seems defective, and revised all the solder joint as well replaced any component suspicious of be damaged ( for my not correct job soldering it).

I achieved improve it but new problems appeared... Evil or Very Mad ... Finally I understood what was the problem: the pin headers were different model than the housing althoght be tha same kind. Unfortunately they need to apply more force in order to connect them in the pin headers. As a consequence , the hypothetical cold joints or not very well done solder joints, were broken and give me intermittent connective, as well it damaged the crimp terminals.

So finally, I soldered my second set of PCB, this time with the components kit of sms electronics, and the header pins were the same that my housing connectors.

So my klee is solved.

Thanks for you help and you patience reading my English.

I hope that after I will know a little more my klee, I will participate in the thread "A collection of Klee musics" .

Very Happy
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

wave
beer

Woo-Hoo! Congratulations!!


Quote:
I hope that after I will know a little more my klee, I will participate in the thread "A collection of Klee musics" .


I'll hold you to that. Very Happy

Cheerios,
Scott

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State Machine
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
o finally, I soldered my second set of PCB, this time with the components kit of sms electronics, and the header pins were the same that my housing connectors.


Whew !!! Nice .... glad the kit I put together worked out for you ... Good job Sound Wink

Bill
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Sound



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks Scoot and Machine Very Happy
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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You can still resurrect the first set of boards can't you? Shocked
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Sound



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi Uncle, Very Happy

For do it correctly, I mean not expend more time without good results, I think that I must remove all the pin sockets and solder new ones again.
I think it will be very difficult.
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State Machine
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
think that I must remove all the pin sockets and solder new ones again.
I think it will be very difficult.


Sound,

Actually, it would not be that bad. If you have flux and some solder braid, you would be surprised at how easy it is. If you get problems getting the solder to wick up, then just heat the board up with a hair dryer, apply flux to the joint, and add fresh solder, then try wicking it up again. Use a needle nose pliar to loosen the pin from the via.

Also, to make the solder wick up BETTER, add flux right on the braid itself onto the surface that faces the joint to be desoldered. Seeing how rare the Klee board sets are, it might be worth your time. Wink

Bill
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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Those pins will slide right out of those plastic bases, even without heating. If you carefully hold the board in a vice you could just heat each pin in turn and remove it as if the "base" wasn't even there. Then clean up the holes.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
Those pins will slide right out of those plastic bases, even without heating. If you carefully hold the board in a vice you could just heat each pin in turn and remove it as if the "base" wasn't even there. Then clean up the holes.


Good point, yes, the plastic should melt just from the iron Cool I assume you did this then? Question

Sounds like those boards can be salvaged for sure .... without really much effort at all.

Bill
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Sound



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Many thanks! Seems easy. New things learned. Very Happy
Last edited by Sound on Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Grab one of those headers, new, and cold, and try pulling one of the pins out with a pair of pointy pliers. Easy as. The base really acts mainly as a "former" to hold the pins at the right spacing and same height until soldered more than anything else. Wink
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synthnl



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

My Klee is finally done Smile I love it !

Here is a build report if you are interested:

http://synthnl.blogspot.com/search/label/klee

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
My Klee is finally done


Nice work and nice blog. Thanks for posting that and all those fine pictures !! Cool

Bill
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loydb



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Awesome blog, and congrats! I've saved all your pics to use when I get to building mine Smile
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