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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Jürgen Haible designs
Photos of what you've built with JH PCBs
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strategy



Joined: Jan 03, 2009
Posts: 68
Location: portland, oregon

PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

v-un-v wrote:
Hey Paul! That's an interesting and sparse design. It it working well?

Tom


Hi! Yes, it really is working well! The lack of labelling works for me except I tend to forget which jack is in and which is out! So I try to mark those with one of those clear plastic dome shaped enclosure feet.

I like equipment that can double as floor or mixing desk unit, tend to shy away from rack space things with rack ears etc.

One of the things I don't look forward to repeating is working with a 4PDT stomp switch. Never did track down a pinout schem for this so it took me and VTL5C3 some considerable time identifying the pinout w/ a meter. What a pain.

So far I've used this on organ with one of my bands and it sounds very good in that context- capable almost of Leslie speaker type sounds with a little pitch bend in the 'fall' stage of the LFO! I also used it in stereo at a recent 'techno' type performance with drum machines etc. Was very 3-dimensional sounding on a stereo PA system!

- Strategy

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toppobrillo



Joined: Dec 10, 2005
Posts: 766
Location: oakland, ca
G2 patch files: 1

PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

buchlasized FS1A! finally usable Smile had to make some brackets to mount the PCBs


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TekniK



Joined: Aug 10, 2008
Posts: 1062

PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

topp wrote:
buchlasized FS1A! finally usable Smile had to make some brackets to mount the PCBs


oh,nice! Cool
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 442
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here's my Son of Storm Tide Flanger -

Jurgen Haible Son of Storm Tide Flanger front
Jurgen Haible Son of Storm Tide Flanger back

The layout of the front panel isn't the greatest - but everything's there at least.

The construction of this threw me a few problems. First, I ordered the wrong kind of resistors - those big fat ones are cute and cheap but don't really fit well. I was able to substitute a bunch of them with normal sized ones I had on hand, but still had to use a lot of the big ones. Also, I didn't really have the right size bracket, so used 2 smaller ones instead, and then cut them a bit too small for the components, so I ended up angling the pcb to make it all fit. Doesn't look great, but it works.

Oh - it's an excellent sounding flanger, and I haven't even calibrated it yet!
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TekniK



Joined: Aug 10, 2008
Posts: 1062

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

nice built,did you adapt the output level because its quit low?
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 442
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

No - I just built it as is, and I find that the active level is the same as the bypass level if I have the input level all the way up. If you have the mix all the way over to bbd, there are some settings where it goes pretty low, but there are also some that are louder.

Oh and thanks, but I think I like your design better! I tried to find a way to fit everything into 2U, but couldn't do it.
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TekniK



Joined: Aug 10, 2008
Posts: 1062

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sduck wrote:
No - I just built it as is, and I find that the active level is the same as the bypass level if I have the input level all the way up. If you have the mix all the way over to bbd, there are some settings where it goes pretty low, but there are also some that are louder.

Oh and thanks, but I think I like your design better! I tried to find a way to fit everything into 2U, but couldn't do it.


Strange ,i have a very big difference in levels/

I think your panel is not that bad for a MOTM style Steve,but yes one knob row could has been moved a bit lower if the switch would be more to the left.
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jhaible



Joined: May 25, 2007
Posts: 2014
Location: Germany
Audio files: 24

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sduck wrote:
No - I just built it as is, and I find that the active level is the same as the bypass level if I have the input level all the way up. If you have the mix all the way over to bbd, there are some settings where it goes pretty low, but there are also some that are louder.

Oh and thanks, but I think I like your design better! I tried to find a way to fit everything into 2U, but couldn't do it.


I just saw your design made it to matrixsynth!
http://matrixsynth.blogspot.com/search/label/JH

Levels: Generally, it should have approximately unity gain. High resonance or notches where the main signal enery is, with alter the amplitude of course, but generally, it's designed for unity gain.

JH.

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TekniK



Joined: Aug 10, 2008
Posts: 1062

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jhaible wrote:

Levels: Generally, it should have approximately unity gain. High resonance or notches where the main signal enery is, with alter the amplitude of course, but generally, it's designed for unity gain.

JH.
Then there is for sure a mistake in my pcb,i have to check some resistors then,i got the same problem in the resonator,the supplier did tagged resitor bags wrong,so i did need to swap some resistors.
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jhaible



Joined: May 25, 2007
Posts: 2014
Location: Germany
Audio files: 24

PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

TekniK wrote:
jhaible wrote:

Levels: Generally, it should have approximately unity gain. High resonance or notches where the main signal enery is, with alter the amplitude of course, but generally, it's designed for unity gain.

JH.
Then there is for sure a mistake in my pcb,i have to check some resistors then,i got the same problem in the resonator,the supplier did tagged resitor bags wrong,so i did need to swap some resistors.


Sounds like a reasonable explanation. As mixing up resistor values tends to happen with the ring that denotes the decimal power, you're easily in for errors in the order of a magnitude - 20dBs for mixing up an orange and red ring, or 40dbs for taking a brown ring for orange.

JH.

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slaughterhousesam



Joined: Aug 27, 2010
Posts: 16
Location: london

PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

My living VCO...

there is another identical one right next to it

lovely stuff jurgen, lovely stuff Razz


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slaughterhousesam



Joined: Aug 27, 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

and my interpolating scanners...

(both modules are eurorack format, 15v supply)


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slaughterhousesam



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

a nice panel can hide so many sins, cant it?


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loydb



Joined: Feb 04, 2010
Posts: 369
Location: Providence, RI

PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Haha. Awesome build! Do you have an FPD file for that Living VCO panel? I'm trying to figure out how I want to configure mine, and am playing with a bunch of different ones.
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TekniK



Joined: Aug 10, 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

nice panel graphics
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slaughterhousesam



Joined: Aug 27, 2010
Posts: 16
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

you want the fpd? no problem.

i spent a while playing with the layout. quite a bit of time actually Smile

for reference the small knobs are 16mm, the large 27mm, and the knobs behind the panel are tt tech p260p's

this range

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Resistors-Potentiometer/Control-Potentiometers/0.5W-12.7mm-Rotary-potentiometers/82067

very nice, but very "light touch", low resistance to movement, i like it but its definitely a contrast to the stiffer doepfer/analog systems standard.


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slaughterhousesam



Joined: Aug 27, 2010
Posts: 16
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

about the living vco layout....

there is a contrast between the top-down a-b-c of the fm/det/pw/pwd controls, and the big freq knobs, which i laid out in newspaper style

----A----
-B----C--


and the tracking and sq/saw switches bisect those knobs (follow the colour switch caps).

id always intended to have 2 side by side, so made sure the knob spacings flowed nicely across panels.

seems some kind of logical to me, but mileage may differ Smile
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Luka



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
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Location: Melb.

PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

what is all the cake of veroboard doing?
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slaughterhousesam



Joined: Aug 27, 2010
Posts: 16
Location: london

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

cake?

Smile

first two layers are power filtering (beads/caps), then its the switch to send in a standard voltage to the...erm...forgotten the damn word...the normalised/unplugged inputs of the jacks, and lastly a switch to switch in dc blocking caps. as per jurgen's suggested method on the project page.
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tomcat



Joined: Oct 14, 2005
Posts: 141
Location: earth

PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

slaughterhousesam wrote:
behind the panel are tt tech p260p's

this range

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Resistors-Potentiometer/Control-Potentiometers/0.5W-12.7mm-Rotary-potentiometers/82067

very nice, but very "light touch", low resistance to movement, i like it but its definitely a contrast to the stiffer doepfer/analog systems standard.


Comparable to the Spectrol/Vishay?
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slaughterhousesam



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Posts: 16
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i had to get a vishay as i couldnt find the tt's in 1M, and they are noticeably lighter than the vishay. i like it but ymmv.
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defex



Joined: Jun 27, 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Toronto, canada

PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here is another LVCO
Tested and working. just have to add the mixer and LED driver board (and sync, if it works!)

you can see where i replaced the pulse/saw switches with pots, it screwed up the look a bit, but it is worth it to have variable pulse/saw mix per osc.

note the home made concentric pot Smile

It sounds great!

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jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
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Location: San Francisco, CA
Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

defex wrote:
Here is another LVCO


Lovely build. Can you explain how you connect your pots? It looks like your pots are mounted directly onto 3-wire female headers. Is that so?

I'm eventually buying a lot of Bi/TT pots which have pins spaced at 2.5mm apart -- does that fit right to a MTA-156 connector?
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defex



Joined: Jun 27, 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Toronto, canada

PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jumunius wrote:
defex wrote:
Here is another LVCO


Lovely build. Can you explain how you connect your pots? It looks like your pots are mounted directly onto 3-wire female headers. Is that so?

I'm eventually buying a lot of Bi/TT pots which have pins spaced at 2.5mm apart -- does that fit right to a MTA-156 connector?


That type of pot has the same spacing as a 0.1inch (2.5 mm!) connector with a long wire on it, after i connect the IDC connector and make sure it is working properly it will get a bit of hot glue to hold it in place

I bend the pot wires a little bit after i put the IDC connector to make it point up.. press a connector down as far as it will go then bend back .

If i build another one i will make a circuit board for the pots, it would save a lot of time.
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2thick4uni



Joined: Feb 20, 2009
Posts: 113
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

defex wrote:
Here is another LVCO


Great build, I do like the home made concentric pot!

Do please keep us posted on your progress at adding a sync input, I'd love to fit this to my JH LVCO............
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