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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software
Tellun Neural Agonizer
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creatorlars



Joined: Nov 26, 2007
Posts: 524
Location: Denton, TX
Audio files: 4

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Cool. I didn't use shielded cable anywhere but on the cables going to the reverb tanks (I had three nice 6-foot RCA cables I just cut in half and soldered the bare ends directly to the PCB.) Will I be okay?
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j.dilisio



Joined: May 19, 2009
Posts: 186
Location: baltimore

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I think the shielded cable is just to minimize interference in the signal path.
I honestly didn't have any problems with the tanks picking up any interference.
You could probably do without. It just depends on how much of an audiophile you want to be about it.

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DRONEGOAT
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 442
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Finally finished mine! Still don't have tanks for it, but now I have no excuses, so I'll get on it pretty soon.

Neural Agonizer Front

Neural Agonizer Back
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KEYKEYEYEKIT



Joined: Sep 08, 2009
Posts: 24
Location: Atlanta

PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:44 pm    Post subject: Neural Agonizer still available? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I really want to build this, but can't seem to find a link to buy the pcb's on the Tellun site. Am I wrong to think these are still available?
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j.dilisio



Joined: May 19, 2009
Posts: 186
Location: baltimore

PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Just send Scott an email. I believe he does business through paypal.
http://tellun.com/motm/contact.html

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The Bad Producer



Joined: Mar 08, 2009
Posts: 255
Location: The Manhole

PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 3:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

They are available, I bought a set yesterday, and also a set of boards for the doomsday machine...

Charlie

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Abby Normal



Joined: Feb 20, 2010
Posts: 66
Location: USA
Audio files: 2

PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

So.... Does anyone want to sell their Neural Agonizer reverb tanks? I'm looking for a set of type 9s for my NA. Thanks....
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sneakthief



Joined: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 529
Location: Berlin

PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I got a couple P-R4FB3D1B from http://www.tubesandmore.com/ when I built mine and they sound nice.

They only have 2 springs though.

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Abby Normal



Joined: Feb 20, 2010
Posts: 66
Location: USA
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks, sneakthief. I was hoping to get type 9 tanks if I can. The type 9 tanks on the tubes and more website have grounded inputs and outputs, so unfortunately, I don't think those will work.

If I can't find the correct type 9 tanks, I'll get the type 4 from tubes and more.

Thanks for the info...
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Luka



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
Posts: 1002
Location: Melb.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

we got our tanks directly from http://www.accutronicsreverb.com/
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problemchild
melbourne australia
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 442
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey Luka and all - Since Luka made his group buy, accutronics has apparently closed down their old sales method, with the ebay store and custom builds and all that. In fact, they closed it down right before I was going to order. However, I was able to talk them into doing another run, which I thought would be done by now, but I just checked, and they've still got the stuff up there. Look on ebay for sepi_group, or search for accutronics, and you'll find them. But get on it NOW!
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Abby Normal



Joined: Feb 20, 2010
Posts: 66
Location: USA
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks all, for the replies. I just now emailed asking about availability of type 4 or 9 reverb tanks @ tubes and more, sepi_group, antique electronic supply, new sensor and mojo musical. We'll see what happens!

I've already heard back from W. G. I. lnc, but they only sell to manufacturers.

Oh...I searched the ebay listing for sepi groups, but I only found type 1 tanks that match the Agonizer specifications. If anyone can find a Agonizer-friendly type 4 or 9 tanks on their ebay pages, please let me know...

Thanks!
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Abby Normal



Joined: Feb 20, 2010
Posts: 66
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

It looks like I'm getting the part# 9FB3D1A. It's the long decay, and horizontal mount, open side up. I went with open side up because I'll probably keep the power supplies on the bottom of the cabinet, so the tanks would best be mounted far away...at the top! Smile
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Abby Normal



Joined: Feb 20, 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I received my 9FB3D1A tanks. Yes!!! Smile It's the isolated input and output version. For each tank, I'm thinking of using a single twisted, shielded pair of cable to handle +In, -In, and the shield. Problem is, I'm not sure what type of cable or connectors to use. The PCB has a place to solder a mono minijack for each signal (+In, -In, etc..), so I'm not certain how to implement the wiring. I might forego PCB mounted jacks going to the input of the tanks, and just solder directly to the board. Does anyone have any recommendations otherwise?

Another thing that I'm thinking of is to add a sheet of metal to cover the open side of the tanks. Maybe this will help cut down on hum or other noise. Has anyone else done this with their tanks?
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Luka



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
Posts: 1002
Location: Melb.

PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i am wondering about how to connect my tanks to my module now also
there is no room in my cabinet for the tanks so it is a bit of a conundrum
hardwiring is out due to this fact

it is pretty much finished otherwise


Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

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problemchild
melbourne australia
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Abby Normal



Joined: Feb 20, 2010
Posts: 66
Location: USA
Audio files: 2

PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Will the module itself fit in your cabinet? If so, maybe you can use longer cables and set the tanks on the floor, in a separate case.

Out of curiousity, which tank model do you have?
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Luka



Joined: Jun 29, 2007
Posts: 1002
Location: Melb.

PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

the module fits, no room for tanks

i didnt really think about fitting large tanks in my case when i built it
only enough room for modules and power (and only just for power)

yup i will make a external box for my tanks
im just working out the optium length for cables at the moment
dont want to make them too long

i have the 9FB2D1B tanks

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problemchild
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Abby Normal



Joined: Feb 20, 2010
Posts: 66
Location: USA
Audio files: 2

PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi Luka, I'm sorry, I forgot that you arranged the group buy for those tanks. That was an awesome thing. Too bad I missed out. Sad

I think your front panel looks fantastic. I'm stuck in the MOTM format. I like the large format of it (more room for my fat fingers Wink), but I have to admit that I'm envious of creative panel graphics such as yours.

So, even though they don't fit in your cabinet, have you hooked up your tanks to see how your agonizer sounds?
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kx



Joined: Dec 05, 2009
Posts: 16
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi guys,

I've finished most of my NA construction and now I'm about to order the tanks. Just wondering if anyone knows how important the 'DIGIT #5 - CONNECTORS ' part is. In the manual he says

D- Input Insulated / Output Insulated (best)
B- Input Grounded / Output Insulated (ok)

but would C = Input Insulated / Output Grounded
or A = Input Grounded / Output Grounded still work?

I just ask because the most affordable tanks I could find (at tubesandmore.com) are those ones (4FB2C1A and 4FB2A1D), so if
neither of those will work I'll have to get the 4FB3D1B which is more
expensive, and 'long' decay.

Thanks!
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kx



Joined: Dec 05, 2009
Posts: 16
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I sent an email to Scott and he gave the following answer :

"Those will work, you'll just end up with multiple ground connections between the PCBs and the tanks. You can always disconnect the ground connections at the PCB if you have any noise problems. They'll probably work fine as is."

In case anyone else wants to know
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JoeMorris



Joined: Apr 26, 2009
Posts: 160
Location: Brighton

PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 4:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

After stripping my custom enclosure* N-Ag build back to nothing and starting again to try and get the lovely but agonizing device back to action after an unfortunate accident documented elsewhere, I've got it 90% operational but think I need to replace a couple of the OTAs. Does anyone know if CA3280Gs are an acceptable substitute for CA3280Es in this app?

*Friendly word of advice - if anyone is thinking of wiring this thing up in your own way in a standard rack enclosure, seriously consider investing in lots of tranquilizers first - most painful build ever. Or maybe it's just me being useless.
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adambee7



Joined: Apr 04, 2009
Posts: 420
Location: united kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The 3280g are fine. Cricklewood electronics have those in i think. Very Happy Very Happy
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
Posts: 442
Location: Nashville
Audio files: 5

PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I had an unfortunate electrical event take out my NA also - I don't know if it was a similar type of event as yours, but thought I'd share my misery. I also tried replacing all the ICs, which didn't fix it. I then replaced all the caps, and reflowed the solder on everything. Still no luck. Finally found the problem - one set of transistors had blown out. Replaced them, and it works fine. As long as my dual wogglebug is on another power supply. For some reason, the dual bug draws too much power during it's ramp up phase, which for some reason blows out one of the transistors on the NA. (I found this out the hard way) Go figure. Just one of those weird confluence of bad electricity things I guess.
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Abby Normal



Joined: Feb 20, 2010
Posts: 66
Location: USA
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Sounds like that was a bummer, sduck. Good to hear that you got it going though.
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JoeMorris



Joined: Apr 26, 2009
Posts: 160
Location: Brighton

PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks for confirming that the 3280Gs should be good - Cricklewood was indeed the source I had in my sights.

Re the accident - sounds like you had a similarly painful experience to me sduck. I replaced every semiconductor on there. The reason - I stupidly dropped one of the tanks in the case whilst faffing about and it touched the one tiny bit of exposed metal on the power supply inlet, sending 240v through the whole circuit (and my arm). Luckily I was OK, but the neural agonizer sounded very wrong upon booting it back up.

Seems to work well up to the individual tank outs now, but I think two of my CA3280s were dodgy - I had to swap them round to get to this point, and feedback section in particular doesn't seem to work properly. LOVING the sound of this thing though.
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