PanaVise advise needed (PCB holder)

[sonicwarrior]

I'm over strained by the many options on the PanaVise site. Perhaps someone with experience regarding PanaVise products can help:

Here are my (current) needs:
1. Holding big size PCBs (like the MB808)
2. Holding normal size PCBs
3. Holding mini PCBs (like the CGS04 DC Mixer)
4. Holding front panels to solder jacks and other stuff already mounted to panel.
5. Ability to rotate to stuff components and rotate it by 180 degrees to solder it afterwards.

Here are the options:

Base stuff: Model: 324 Electronic Work Center or Model: 333 Rapid Assembly Circuit Board Holder, both handle 2. and 5. sufficiently, it seems. Not sure which one would be better for me. It seems that the 324 has more features while the 333 is more stable with it's heavy weighted base.

For 1. I would need a longer cross bar like the Model: 318-26 26" (660.4mm). It looks like a good balance between long and not too long.

For 3. I guess I need something like the Model: 203 PV Jr. Head.

For 4. I think I need something like the Model: 303 Standard Head with either Model: 352 Teflon High Heat Jaws or Model: 353 Plated Steel Jaws. Or can this be done with the base stuff?

[numbertalk]

I have the Panavise 315 Circuit Board Holder and have been very happy with it.

[loydb]

I have this one and it works well.

http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=PV350

[LektroiD]

I use one of these, it has a sponge inside the top cover so when you flip it over the components don't fall out.

I can't see how the ones above work, as the components would surely fall straight out as soon as you flip it over to solder?

[kenl666]

I have the 350 & 315, they have been able to handle everything I've ever done. The only possible issue is that occasionally some PCBs have components real close to the edge. The jaw grooves in the 315 allow the components to get real close which makes it difficult to solder, but the solution is to just rotate the pcb 90 degrees in the jaws.

I think you'd be wasting your time with the 203 and 303 head (unless you have other non-SDIY uses for them).

LektroiD: I don't know how others do it, but as I stuff the board I bend the leads out so that they hold the components in place. The only difficult are components with short leads, usually IC sockets, but there's still often enough length to get enough bend to hold them in (for sockets, I usually just bend one tab in each corner).

[sonicwarrior]

Thanks.

[loydb]

[v-un-v]

Sorry to be a killjoy, but I've got the Panavise 315, and I don't like them at all. They're far too fiddly to use imo, then all my components fall out! (not to mention the fiddly process in setting them up).

I much prefer the low tech approach- populating the board, then placing foam on the top, then turning it over (starting with lowest profile components first of course). That costs about 30p for the foam.

I like what LektroiD's got, but for £157 (+VAT too?)?! Panavise are at least cheaper, but electronic music should be punk rock, not a luxury for the super rich

Just my opinion.

Tom

[sonicwarrior]

[v-un-v]

Yes, I also bend the legs. Perhaps I was being a little harsh, as I think for wiring front panels, the 315 would be perfect. I was really lucky on the purchase of my vice as I bought them from a surplus dealer, who was selling off bankrupt stock.

I think Panavise are very much an American product, which lacks the elegance of a 'European' design. They are also very expensive to buy outside of the States. I've also got the 301 Combo, but I would also very much like the solid base, but at over £75 or so +VAT & shipping, it seems an awful lot to pay for a lump of metal with 3 holes drilled in it.

[sonicwarrior]

The main thing is: I like it when the PCB is locked as I have shaky hands an am not very filigree.

I don't hink the foam/wood piece thing will work for me for smaller PCBs as I might move them around while trying to solder them.

[v-un-v]

[LektroiD]

[Taylor]

I just got a Panavise circuit board holding head with the suction base, and so far I really like it. I've been using one of the cheap helping hands things, and the stability of having it solidly attached to my desk is a huge advantage. It can hold pretty huge circuit boards without losing stability, and the little quick release for the jaws is perfect for flipping the board between insertion and soldering.

The best part is just how secure all of the joints are when locked.

I'm very pleased with the purchase.

[bod]

i'm in the same school as lektroid, i dont like bending the legs of components to keep them in place, as i find it just gets messy when it comes to soldering and snipping them. personal preference though i guess unless its a comercial wave soldering bath.

as much as i would love a decent stand/clamp for pcbs, i cant justify the cost. i just insert all the same types of components, and hold them in place with a stirp of electrical tape, flip it over and solder, similar to the foam method.

[v-un-v]

[sonicwarrior]

At least it's easier to desolder if the legs are left straight.

[diablojoy]

you could try holding components in place with blue tac, the stuff you hold posters up with
thats what i have been doing now for a couple of years, works well for me
comes away clean ,holds them well and you dont need to bend any legs.
any old board holder/vise will work then or even none straight on a anti static mat on the bench if the boards too large

[emdot_ambient]

Reviving an old post 'cause I'm starting to look at changing over to a board holder...

I don't like the idea of bending legs so much either, but that's what I've been doing. I've found that doing so does cause many more problems with creating soldering bridges on boards that have components really close together. I've also read that it increases the chance of causing bad solder joints, or tearing up solder pads when you clip the leads.

However, I've managed to get by without a holder for a long time. I always start a board by populating IC sockets. I put in as many as I can, place a thin sheet of metal over the top, flip it onto my work table, then pull the metal sheet out from under them. Cardboard works too if it's thin enough. Then I solder a corner of each socket, flip it and make sure they're all flush. If one isn't, then it's easy to apply a bit of heat to the one solder joint and press the socket flat (DON'T press on the socket directly above the soldered joint or you'll burn your finger! I know. Believe me, I know).

I then move on to resistors and diodes. Populate a dozen or so, bending the leads, flip, solder, clip, check for solder bridges (!). I then progress up through taller parts. MTA connectors are a bit of a bitch, though. Can't really bend their leads and they're awkwardly tall. I typically have to do them one at a time.

Anyway...I can't afford the nice ones that let you flip. Not sure what I'll do.

[marvkaye]

I have been bending all my passives leads, although I like the suggestions about foam, etc, and keeping the leads straight... going to try that next PCB. As for IC sockets and MTA connectors... I put a single teeny drop of super glue on the center of the ridges that hold the base of them up off the board and glue them down. I populate all those components at once, wait a couple minutes for the glue to dry then solder, doing one pin on each component at a time and work my way around the board. This keeps any individual part from getting really hot and forces me to concentrate on each connection. (I find it too easy to space out if I'm running consecutive pins...) I do the same thing with through hole parts... only solder one leg of each and work my way around the group. Keeps them nice and cool as well. When I'm done I inspect all the pads with a USB microscope to make sure there are no nasty solder bridges. Seems to work great.

<marv>

[corex]

I like to use little pieces of masking tape to hold components in place rather than bending leads. Normally I use Tamiya 6mm tape.