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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » MusicFromOuterSpace.com designs by Ray Wilson
Whacky, Zany, Weird Stripboard Layout
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squash2



Joined: Jul 09, 2010
Posts: 5
Location: England

PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 1:42 pm    Post subject: Second Attempt Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi everyone -

I have had a second go, with a new soldering iron, but the result does no more than the first attempt Sad

I have got WIMA caps, the small red blocks, and I THINK they are MKS2 caps, as specified.

What I dont understand though is what -minus- told me on the previous page - he said that some caps are in the wrong place and some are not there at all - is this refering to this layout that benuron posted, with extra capacitors at the bottom?

I have been following the diagram on the FIRST page.

Please could anyone leave any suggestions based on this new picture and these couple of observations -

-Again, the only thing it does is put some sort of effect on the static fuzz
-I am not using CD40106, i am using LM723CN, still DIL 14
- Having the long IC chip in or having it out makes no difference to the audio signal
-I have jumped where the 1M pot in the top left should be as I dont have one for there, there is one more in this version of the schem than the last one.

Thanks alot in advance.

Serin


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magman



Joined: Feb 04, 2009
Posts: 361
Location: Liverpool, UK

PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 12:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Serin,

The first issue is with the chips. The CD40106 is a completely different chip to the LM723.

The LM723 is a linear voltage regulator (used to make DC power supplies), the 40106 is a hex Schmidt Trigger. You must use a 40106 for this circuit to have any chance of working.

Try picking one up from Maplin or somewhere similar and see how the circuit works then.

Regards

Magman
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squash2



Joined: Jul 09, 2010
Posts: 5
Location: England

PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks magman,

I have ordered some off a different website and am eager for the chips to arrive!!

I assumed the LM723 would work as I put DIL 14 into the maplin search after trying CD40106 (which came up with no results) and the LM723 is what came up.

Pity maplin dont have it, as i have to pay extra for delivery from another site Sad

oh well, ill post once ive tried the new IC!

Thanks again,

Serin
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 761

Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi Squash2!

Good to see that you haven't given up yet! Very Happy Yes, that IC does have to be a 40106. This is certainly the first thing to fix. The caps at the bottom of the board... C15 and C16 on Krunkus' stripboard. I can't see them on your photo. Have a look at benurons or tjookums photos. The caps are there.

Anyway, get the correct IC first. I know all these numbers and terminology can be really confusing at first! I still struggle with it all myself. This was the first thing I built! I remember emailing a scan of my stripboard cuts to Krunkus... I scraped a perfect square break at each point! It was then that Uncle Krunkus told me about drilling the breaks with a 3MM drill bit and a pin vice!! I had no idea! Took me HOURS doing it the way I had!

I have no doubt that you will get something working if you keep asking here on the forum for help! And when you do, the feeling of happiness will be huge!!!!!

Keep at it! I still remember the "I dont believe it" feeling I had when my WSG worked!
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RF



Joined: Mar 23, 2007
Posts: 1493
Location: Northern Minnesota, USA
Audio files: 28

PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

-minus- wrote:
It was then that Uncle Krunkus told me about drilling the breaks with a 3MM drill bit and a pin vice!!


Dang! So THAT's how you do it! Razz
-minus - You big D circuit Dog! Thanks!

I used stripboard for the first time only recently - I got a bunch of it with a pile of parts I bought - and ended up using an exacto knife to cut those traces on the stripboard.... Didn't find the joy in it Smile

bruce

_________________
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"I want to make these sounds that go wooo-wooo-ah-woo-woo.”
(Herb Deutsch to Bob Moog ~1963)
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 761

Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

HA HA BUCE!!!! Here's Krunkus' remarks from October 08:

> Great job on the stripboard cuts with the exacto knife!
> I would really recommend the drill bit method though, heaps
> easier, quicker, accurate.
> I'd also recommend marking the spots to be cut with a
> dot from a marker pen first. Then check them before you
> start cutting. It can save you that wrong spot problem which
> you will experience at some point.

He did mention something about "believe me, I have been doing this for 25 years..." and the word Pin Vice.... but I cant seem to find that email...

Here's my knife method... NOT the right way of doing it!:


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jimh54



Joined: Apr 11, 2004
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 2:25 pm    Post subject: Signal levels Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello everyone,
I just finished the uncle krunkus version of the stripboard. I then discovered it was not like the one on Ray's site. (it is the early version). I modified the circut parts and paths to make it like the current schematic. I have some sounds being generated but the filter does not seem to have much effect.

I have a good oscillloscope and have measured the following levels at various points:

U1 Pin 12 has .8vpp
U1 pin 2 has .2vpp
at R10 the signal is negligible
U2 pin 2 has .3vpp
U2 pin 6 has .8vpp

Are these levels anywhere close to normal? They seem pretty small to me.

Also all of these reference points are the according to the Ray Wilson current schematic.

Any help would be appreciated.
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 761

Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hmmm... cant really suggest much here to help, sorry. I haven't looked at Rays new WSG. I can confirm that Krunkus' one does work! And when you do get the filter working, it WILL be noticeable! That is THE one knob which seriously does alter the sound dramatically!

Good luck! You could always go back to the Krunkus version. I'm happy with it!
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greenmachine



Joined: Aug 26, 2010
Posts: 4
Location: montreal quebec

PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 7:38 pm    Post subject: Almost There!
Subject description: troubleshoot my WSG
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Hi Everyone,

I'm a new member who usually builds guitar pedals and such, but was excited to try this project.

I've used Andrew's original layout as posted at Music From Outerspace and it's working to some extent, however, none of of the controls for the first circuit work, all of the second circuit controls which Andrew added have an effect (the controls on the right hand side of the stripboard), but the ones on the left don't seem to do anything.

The "oddness cutoff frequency" works.

I've checked the orientation of the electolytics, and the value of R7, which seems to be the "gateway" to the filter for that side (I could be wrong).

If anyone can help, I'd be grateful.

- I used 22n caps instead of 20n.
- I have a 1uf electro instead of the 2.2 np. The (-) lead going to out.

Thanks! Very Happy
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greenmachine



Joined: Aug 26, 2010
Posts: 4
Location: montreal quebec

PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I just had a closer listen, and the knobs do seem to have some effect, however, they're extremely subtle, I really had to listen closely, not at all like the second set.

Also, this thing doesn't sound as dynamic as the clips I've heard.

I mostly get a lot of humm-haaaa-hummm-haaaa type sounds. The clips I've heard are very dynamic with great pitch shifting and resonant droning.
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greenmachine



Joined: Aug 26, 2010
Posts: 4
Location: montreal quebec

PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

...one more question.

Does there need to be 2 (-) leads going from the same strip, as indicated in the layout? I figured I only needed one since there were no cuts in the strip and everything was going to the same place.

Thanks
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greenmachine



Joined: Aug 26, 2010
Posts: 4
Location: montreal quebec

PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:30 am    Post subject: Fixed!
Subject description: Yay!
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Thanks to this thread I managed to find the problem.

1) C7 was inserted into the wrong strip. (This was causing the choppy humm-haaa-hummm- haaaa sound I think)

2) Had a 1k resistor in R3, which was probably why one set of knobs seemed almost non-existent.

3) Used a 2.2 polarized electro at the output, from 1uf.

Wow. This thing sounds sooo cool. I can't wait to get some knobs on there and play with it.

Thanks everyone.

-Dan
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-minus-



Joined: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 761

Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ha ha! GREAT to hear you had success! Been meaning to check back here and see what's been happening. It's pretty important to get these things in the right place, the right way round (if they are Electrolytic capacitors), and of the right value helps too! ...not that I'm an expert on all this yet, mind you! Laughing

Enjoy the sounds from your WSG!!!! Glad another one has been born!
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marvkaye



Joined: Mar 14, 2011
Posts: 225
Location: Fla

PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I decided to use the Andrew Sharp layout on the MFOS WSG page and just finished installing all the components and jumpers, getting ready to start on the panel wiring. I really enjoyed the process, and see a number of additional stripboard projects happening in the future. I'm pretty pleased with this, my first stripboard effort, and thought I'd share these intermediate results with the group. Thanks to everyone for the open discussions and sharing your successes and tribulations... it all provided me with a solid background with which to take this first step. Fun stuff.....

<Marv>


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fauphi



Joined: Aug 31, 2013
Posts: 1
Location: germany

PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi there,

I build some guitar effect pedals in the past and had some fun with it. But now I want to get into synthesizer and decided to start with the WSG.
I used the layout by Andrew Sharp from MFOS website (http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth_new/WSG2010/AndrewSharpStripBoardTop_small.gif).

My problem is, I hear sound, but not that sound what I expected to hear:



The filter seems to work fine, but the other stuff sounds strange and very quiet. I checked the soldering, components and the pot wiring twice but I found nothing to be wrong.

1. Is it important to keep the wires short?
2. On the MFOS website it says "battery negative - NOT EARTH GROUND". What does that mean?
3. I use a 9V power supply, not a battery, is that a problem?
4. As this layout is from the MFOS website I think its verified?

EDIT: I checked it again with a signal tracer and it seems I did the pot wiring completely wrong...
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