andrewF
Joined: Dec 29, 2006
Posts: 1176
Location: australia
Audio files: 4
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 Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 6:21 pm Post subject:
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It depends a lot on how you mount your PCBs.
If they are parallel (||) to the panel and need to be moved when servicing, stranded is better as it can handle being moved around a bit. Solid core will snap after half a dozen bends.
If you mount your PCBs perpendicular to the panel (L) and everything is easily accessible, solid core should be fine.
I have always used stranded, and yes stripping&tinning is the least fun part of building. Which probably explains why I have a stack of 40 or so stuffed, unmounted PCBs. |
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Rykhaard
Joined: Sep 02, 2007
Posts: 1290
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 2:48 am Post subject:
Re: Stranded vs. Solid Core Hookup Wire |
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| loydb wrote: | What is the advantage for using stranded wire instead of solid for wiring panels? Less fragile in the long run? I sure hate working with it...
Thanks,
Loyd |
There are a couple of advantages to the stranded wire versus the solid core:
- stranded wire is almost always, much more flexible
- stranded wire once heated, will automatically have the stranded collection such the solder up into it, making for a very good connection
1 thing to do with the stranded to make it easier, I learned years and years ago: when you're stripping the insulation off of it, don't strip it all the way off. Once the insulation that you wish to strip off, has been separated from the rest of the insulation, while it still IS on the wire, grab it between your thumb and forefinger and start rolling that separated piece of insulation in the same direction as the winding of the stranded wire. Do this for a few spins.
That, will ensure that the strands are securely wound around each other and will keep them together even for a few bends of the wire, when you're wrapping it around your connection point.
Once the stranded wire has been attached there, then as normally, heat your connection point and stranded wire together, and then, apply the solder.
Both the connection point and the stranded wire will immediately grab up the solder.
Your joint should be ok, in this fashion easily, within 1 second. Blow lightly on it to help it solidify quicker and on to the next conection.
Another thing to do when running your wires, if you have 2 or 3 of them going to same switch or pot, twist the wires together through their entire length. Once all of the wires are twisted together, it makes it easier to route the multiple of them, at the same time.
If you're going to be winding the wires a fair distance, or, multiple runs of the same amount of connectors - say for a row of pots or switches, then figure out that length for one connection; multiply it by the # of connections that you have to make and then pull all of your colours of wire from your spools at the same time.
Once you have that entire length + about 5 to 10% extra (to make up for the coming winding of them), mount one end of the wires into a drill and tire the other end to somewhere to hold them. Now hold the wires in the drill so that they wont fall out; step back for the entire length of the wires and start the drill up - SLOWLY. Bring it up to a comfortable speed.
Once the wires start winding together nicely, follow the PULL, OF the wire as it winds tighter, towards where the other end is tied up.
Once you have a good tight winding, undo one end of the wires (from the drill, or from the tying point) and let it coil up, as it will.
Untie the other end and straighten out your length, gently, so as to not disturb the winding.
Cut your lengths to as they're required and then strip away as I mentioned above. 
Hope that helps.
(Time to copy this and paste it into the help section, of my own forum!  ) |
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