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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Stickney Synthyards
Sync Thync Euro (PCBs available)
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PHOBoS



Joined: Jan 14, 2010
Posts: 5252
Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 684

PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2018 4:56 pm    Post subject: Sync Thync Euro (PCBs available)
Subject description: S&H + AND, useful for rhythmic patterns
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I made another eurorack module: The Sync Thync Euro Cool



ABOUT THE MAIN MODULE:

The Sync Thync Euro is a modified version of the original Sync Thync designed to be used as a euro-rack synth module. It's a bit of a cross between
a (1 bit) S&H and an AND gate and although its original purpose is to create interesting rhythms that are in sync with a master Clock, it can also
be used for other thyncs. When the SYNC INPUT goes high (> 0.6V) it samples whatever data is at the A/B INPUTS and this appears at the A/B OUTPUTS
as long as the SYNC INPUT is high. When the SYNC INPUT is low the A/B OUTPUTS are low aswell. Internally the module is digital and the A/B OUTPUTS
are 0/+5V gate signals, so it does not work as a standard analog sample and hold. However, there are comparators on all the inputs so any signal
can be used. A very simple patch to create interesting rhythms is to connect a Clock signal to the SYNC INPUT and connect LFO's to the A/B INPUTS.

The SYNC THRU OUTPUT is a buffered version of the SYNC INPUT (before the comparator). If for example you would plug a Clock signal into the SYNC
INPUT than a buffered version of this Clock signal is available on the SYNC THRU OUTPUT to control other modules.

There is a LINK connector available on the main board which is useful when more than one Sync Thync are used. SYNC THRU is the buffered version of
the SYNC INPUT (same as the SYNC THRU OUTPUT) and SYNC IN is normalized to the SYNC INPUT jack. If you put more than one Sync Thync behind a single
panel and connect SYNC THRU of the first to SYNC IN of the next (and so on) you can control them all with a single Sync signal. There is a GND pin
available in case you want to use shielded wire for this (only connect shielding to 1 side). There are also pads on the board to link power thru so
you'd still only need 1 power cable.

There are 3 mounting holes (2 on the main board, 1 on the expander board) that can be used to secure the PCB to a bracket or panel if you want to
use it for another (not euro-rack) synth format [*].



ABOUT THE EXPANDER:

The (optional) Sync Thync Euro Expander board adds adjustable (voltage controlled) TRESHOLD CONTROLS for the A/B INPUT comparators and it also has
a NOISE generator. This NOISE generator can be used as a random source for the A/B INPUTS and adjusting the treshold level will set the probability.
Of course the expander board requires a larger front panel so you don't have to use it and the Sync Thync will work fine without it.[**]

When nothing is connected to the A/B INPUTS the control voltage for the comparators is normalized to +2.5V. Without the expander board this will
cause the A/B outputs to be low/high in sync with the SYNC INPUT. If the expander is used then the A/B OUTPUTS can also be turned on/off by adjusting
the treshold levels. An external gate signal works well for this but it will work inverted. (gate high = outputs low, gate low = outputs in sync)

[**] If you don't use the expander board you will have to bridge TA with TC and TB with TC on the main PCB. You could use a pin header with some
jumpers or simply solder in some wires. (you could probably even bridge it with a solder blob although I don't recommend it). If you do use the
expander board you can leave out R21 and D7.



ABOUT THE CIRCUIT:

Both the 'S&H' and 'AND' function are created with a flip flop (IC1). The CLK input is used as the trigger for the 'S&H' and a low to high
transition on this input samples the D input and places it on the Q output. The trigger signal is derived from the SYNC INPUT and turned
into a short pulse by C8 and R11. For the 'AND' function the reset pin is used which is controlled by Q1. This transistor inverts the SYNC INPUT
signal so when the SYNC INPUT is low (< 0.6V) the flip flops get reset and the outputs are low.

The NOISE generator uses a reversed biased transistor (Q2) to create white noise and the signal is amplified by U4a and U4b. U4a also rectifies it
to create a positive only signal on the NOISE OUTPUT [***]. The amplitude can be adjusted with VR1. Note that a higher amplitude will give a larger
treshold range when the NOISE generator is connected to the A/B INPUTS.



MODIFICATIONS:

[*] Although the Sync Thync is designed to be used as a euro-rack module it can be used for other formats. It should work fine as it is on -/+ 15V
but to get +5V signals on the A/B OUTPUTS R16 and R17 have to be changed to 24K. R1 and R2 can be adjusted to 470K to normalize the control voltage
of the A/B INPUT comparators to 2.5V but this is not critical.

[**] for a bi-polar NOISE OUTPUT signal leave out D8 and bridge D9.

When the Expander is not used the treshold level for both the INPUT A/B comparators is set to 0.6V with R21 and D7. You could use 2 resistors or a
zener diode (reversed from D7) to change this voltage. Likewise the treshold level for the SYNC INPUT comparator is set to 0.6V with R7 and D3 so
this could be changed in the same manner.




I haven't tested the expander yet (worked on breadboard) as I don't have the right pots so I just made a standard version and that works great.
I used a 4HP panel but I think it should just fit behind a 3HP (is that even a standard size ?). Note that if you use an angled connector for the
power (like I did) it should not be soldered flush with the PCB else the connector won't fit, this is something I'll change if I'd do another run
of PCBs. I might also replace the noise source with treshold control for the Sync input but I'm not sure about that yet.

I had 10 PCBs made but I don't need all of them, although I want to keep at least 2. So they are available for €2,50 per/PCB + shipping*.

* shipping costs worldwide:
1 PCB € 3,00
2/3 PCBs € 4,40
4 or more € 8,60

Note that this is the first limited run with a green soldermask for a special price. If there is enough interest I can have more made which
will come in a different color and probably with a slightly higher price. Just leave a reply if you are interested (first come first served).

[I finished another module (the Toggler) for which I also have PCBs available]


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SYNC THYNC EURO V1_1_CB_REV1_0.png
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SYNC THYNC EURO V1_1_EX_REV1_0.png
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Moosgummi



Joined: Feb 01, 2015
Posts: 15
Location: Hiltown, Germany

PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2019 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I think you should offer panels for these PCBs.
You designed this for Eurorack, and you made a really cool panel for the WaveWiper.
So what´s your problem?
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PHOBoS



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Posts: 5252
Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 684

PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2019 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Moosgummi wrote:
So what´s your problem?

I can't say I haven't considered it. As a matter of fact I have been designing my latest panels at a much larger size than I actually need
so that I can import them in KiCad and have panels fabricated. The main problem is costs. Even though it's not that expensive and has
been getting cheaper I just don't have a lot of money. If I know for certain I would be able to sell them all I could probably do it though.
But I would have to order at least 20 to make it cost effective and if I screw up the design (not so likely since I already made them for
myself) it would be a complete waste.

Then there is the shop part. I set it up with the idea that it would be much more convenient to use than handling everything through
forum pm's and it is. However it isn't really functioning properly and I would also like it to have a secure (https) connection. I have tried
to set that up a couple of times but I just don't think it is possible with my current (free) host. There is also the Cookie Law which I have
no clue about but I think is actually mandatory these days.

I am also really bad at regularly checking my mail Embarassed That used to fun but since everything has gone digital I actually kind of dread opening
my mail. That also ties in with the not checking it enough and that there might be some important mail I haven't responded to. (and then I
postpone it which only makes it worse). I am getting a bit better at it though.

Packing stuff up and especially keeping track of what I sell, what the costs are ie. the adminstrative part takes up a lot of time. I actually don't
mind the packing stuff so much (and enjoy sorting parts for kits) but all in all it can take 30 minutes to an hour to process a single order.
I probably won't be selling complete kits anymore though, just PCBs and maybe panels as it's another investment and always rather stressful
to wait for everything to arrive. I haven't even sold any of the kits for some of the modules but that's also my own fault for not promoting them.
I just hate ads and feel bad asking for money (which is also why I sell them pretty cheap). Of course I do understand that I am more likely to sell
something if it includes a panel.


But back to the panels for the Sync Thync, since that's what this thread is about, I'd probably have to make 2 designs: with and without the
expander. Panels without the expander would be smaller and also cheaper but it is more versatile with. Black panels would probably be the most
popular choice but since I'd be using PCB panels I can also do different colors. The aluminum PCBs are also an option these days and since they
are more sturdy than regular PCBs I could use a standard 1.6m thickness which is cheaper. For the wavewiper I used 2mm to prevent flexing.
Double sided FR4 PCBs do have a bit more options than single sided aluminium though and I do like the LEDs behind the panel stuff that
MakeNoise does. Could also do dual sided panels if the layout is symmetrical.

Quote:
you made a really cool panel for the WaveWiper.

Thanks Very Happy I did think that it might be a bit intrusive with the dual color and large font. (to be completely honest I also did that so it is easy to recognize
and I might be able to spot it in someone's rack) btw I have thought about making a smaller version by ditching 1 CV input and using the same connectors
as the Sync Thync so the PCB would be at an angle behind the panel. Less suitable for a skiff but would take up less panel space.

_________________
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