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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software
2016 Builds!
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AlanP



Joined: Mar 11, 2014
Posts: 696
Location: New Zealand
Audio files: 40

PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2016 5:09 pm    Post subject: 2016 Builds!
Subject description: Show us what you've been cooking up!
Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Edit -- here is last year's build thread -- http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-63607.html

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Thomas Henry's VC Quadrature Function Generator. I'm quite happy with how this turned out, looks the business Very Happy

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For those who are curious as to the construction...

Last edited by AlanP on Mon Oct 17, 2016 12:00 am; edited 1 time in total
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Gman



Joined: Jul 18, 2015
Posts: 12
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Been working on this modular for over a year now! Had some time to work on it over winter break. Built a new sequencer, 2x sequential switches, yusynth sample/hold, and a thomas henry white noise circuit. I also got a label maker and used that for all the labels on the synth and bought plenty of knobs too! Also I've reached a point where I've been spending more time learning how to play it than I am building it now that I have plenty of complete modules. I did many covers including this Daft Punk song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK_Khrs8284

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AlanP



Joined: Mar 11, 2014
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Location: New Zealand
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

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Lovetone Flange With No Name, done tinysize! (I think my big box version is still loaned out to someone.) This is in a 1790NS enclosure!

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Another PCB sandwich with this one, and I'm quite proud of how nicely it worked out. Wiring is still a bit of a pig, but it's unescapeable with two stomps and four jacks.

To give you an idea of the vertical clearance --

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PHOBoS



Joined: Jan 14, 2010
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 8:19 pm    Post subject: Euro-rack modular PSU Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

made a (wall wart) PSU for a euro-rack modular. Razz


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wackelpeter



Joined: May 05, 2013
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2016 1:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Oh that looks fine Phobos.

How much current can your PSU provide or handle and what AC voltage has it's on the Output or secondary side?

I'm just asking because i'm thinking about an wall wart PSU for +/-15V for my Systems...

At the beginning i build one out of a real transformer but that took too much space in my box and i was a bit afraid of having that big transformer with it's 230V AC in my metal box... even if i took care about grounding, main fuse and protecting the mains from touching accidentaly with some strips of adhesive and protecting the cable against pulling it out of it's terminal clamps...
I always fear that the adhesive may someday get loose and a flying cable could get in touch with my mains... that wouldn't be that funny...

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PHOBoS



Joined: Jan 14, 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2016 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks Very Happy

I can not give a simple answer about the current since it depends on a couple of factors. The absolute max would
be 2x 1.5A since that is the maximum current the regulators (LM317/LM337) can handle. However they can only
do this if the heatsinks are sufficient and that in turn depends on the input voltage.
Higher input voltage = larger voltage drop = more heat

But I have no idea what the K/W rating is for these heatsinks, they came out of an old CRT monitor as did the diodes
I think (BY255, 3A /1300V! Razz). It could be calculated I guess. And than there are the large capacitors. Rule of thumb
for a double wave rectified PSU is at least 2000uF/A , but this is a single wave rectified PSU so that value doubles.
I have 5x 1000uF on each rail which should just be enough for 2x 1.20A.

All in all I would say the max is 2x 1A as long as the input voltage isn't too high but it would probably run a bit hot.
However the wall wart I am currently using is only 12VAC/12VA so if the PSU was 100% efficient (which it isn't) that
would be 2x 500mA max. Modules usually don really use a lot of current though so for now that should be enough.

And although you didn't ask the copper wiring on the busboard is not added so it can handle more current without the
traces on the stripboard going up in smoke, they should be able to handle the current easily, but to lower the impedance
which means less crosstalk between modules (0 ohm would be ideal). For the same reason I used 2 sets of thick cables
and I also added extra copper wiring to the PSU board.

Quote:
At the beginning i build one out of a real transformer but that took too much space in my box and i was a bit afraid of having that big transformer with it's 230V AC in my metal box...

Weight, space and safety were also reasons for me to use a wall wart supply this time and I don't have any useful
transformers at the moment anyway. A center tapped transformer would be a bit more stable though and ideal would
be to use 2 seperate ones.


I also made a simple battery powered powercable tester btw. so here are some photos of that and a photo of the PSU
mounted in the case. Cool


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wackelpeter



Joined: May 05, 2013
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2016 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey Phobos,

thanks for the fast reply. Well i have some simple knowledge about These power calculation Terms...

I guess my supplies shouldn't have to handle more than 0,5A on each rail... This Comes out of the reason i want to Keep my cases or racks moveable... not to big and therefore not too many modules...

in my previous briefcase boxes i had approx 250-300mA per rail... depending on how much i stuffed inside...

Now that i have only a small Aluminium briefcase left i decided to mount a few modules in a 19" rack with a wooden housing... it's height is about 55cm and there i can either use the previous psu's wich are a bit more costy or try to use an self build psu... as one of my other psu's wouldn't do the Job alone in one of These racks if e Keep mouting all my modules so Close as before...
but i think it suits me best to have them in this Format so i can mount them together or leave them alone... Kind of LEGO building...

but with this wall wart psu i would feel a lot better as with open Transformators inside my case...

From my work i could have from time to time Access to either 2x24VAC Transformators or even 24VAC wall wart PSU with 1-1,5A...

P.S. The idea with the extra copper traces is a clever Thing... i tried to achieve a similar efficency by simply bridging 3 copper traces on my stripboard on each side of the fuse holder as this matched the size between those Pins.... on the secondary side i used some Serial clamps which Pins are also soldered each to the other...

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strategy



Joined: Jan 03, 2009
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Location: portland, oregon

PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

My first completed build of 2016, a Marantz PMD221 deck outfitted as a DIY tape delay! Including a DIY tape loop inside the cassette!

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AlanP



Joined: Mar 11, 2014
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I really don't have the circuit-bending gene (I barely audition transistors in fuzzes), but I can admire a classy job like that! Smile
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sduck



Joined: Dec 16, 2007
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Clouds in 5U!

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.Through Hole Clouds front by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.Through Hole Clouds profile by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.Through Hole Clouds back by Stephen Drake, on Flickr
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AlanP



Joined: Mar 11, 2014
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Stephen, your 5U adaptations always look really nice! Smile
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wackelpeter



Joined: May 05, 2013
Posts: 461
Location: germany
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Not finished yet...

Right now working lower left Corner Scott Bernardi VC Delay,
lower right Corner Thomas Henry 4046 VCO
On the greater frontplate:
1x CGS MAster divider
1xCGS Pulse Divider
1xCGS Gate Sequencer
2xCGS Burst Generator
2xCGS Mixer (3Input)
4xCGS Gate to Trigger (or 2 if you count as per orignal PCB)
2xCGS And Logic (Trannie)
2xCGS OR Logic (Trannie) which acts like a Nand (right now i'm to lazy to fix it)

One Gate Sequencer and one pulse divider soon to be added... but i ran out of diodes and on-off-on Switches...
not mounted yet is also a cgs triple-bi-directional Switch... board is ready but will be mounted in the spare samller Panel to be fit on top

Behind the Panels are 2 +/-15V PSU's one for Sound-stuff and one for all the blinky modules...

btw. i will never use such big Panels again... that was horrible to drill These 208 holes with a accu-driven Drilling machine... as the material is a bit thicker it was at least more than 600 times i drilled holes in there... going from small to bigger drills...


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PHOBoS



Joined: Jan 14, 2010
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I built a temporary experimental instrument, using a pan, a piezo pickup,
some rubber bands, a pair of shoelaces and a cardboard box. Laughing

edit: posted a recording here


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PHOBoS



Joined: Jan 14, 2010
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 4:16 pm    Post subject: Melt Yer Face Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

a multi/interface module. more info here

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Sonic



Joined: Dec 02, 2010
Posts: 105
Location: Toronto

PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Four encoders and 2 x 4051 mux, for hooking up to an arduino or a pi. The encoders have a push action too. They're super-cheap ones from China, so will probably have a nice dirty signal and need some serious debouncing bounce .


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LFLab



Joined: Dec 17, 2009
Posts: 493
Location: Rosmalen, Netherlands

PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Built a whole bunch of things, all of them I designed my own boards for:
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Dual LFO based on a circuit by AndrewF
Fritz 5-pulser
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Minimoog VCF + VCA, just the discrete core, no opamps used, maybe I'll add a mixer for inputs and buffers.
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Serge resonant equaliser:
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Balanced outputs (I use it as a monitor controller):
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Thomas Henry CMOS ADSR, blinkenlights!
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smartattack



Joined: Jan 07, 2016
Posts: 5
Location: New York

PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sduck wrote:
Clouds in 5U!

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.Through Hole Clouds front by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.Through Hole Clouds profile by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.Through Hole Clouds back by Stephen Drake, on Flickr


How are you making those colored panels? is that via FPE or are you DIY'ing these? If DIY, I'd love to know a few words about your process. They look awesome.
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elmegil



Joined: Mar 20, 2012
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The colored stuff is FPE; I've used sduck's designs for a couple of Paul Schreiber's modules (E340/E350). They're beautiful.
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elmegil



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Nice stress relief last night, knocked it out in a couple hours... Still need Thonkiconn jacks to show up, but otherwise complete.


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ablablablablabla



Joined: Feb 09, 2016
Posts: 7
Location: shitcore

PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

everything here is so pretty...


i'm pretty proud of this plate reverb i built the other day:

http://amok.wtf/qnm/2016/02/14/plate-reverb-how-to-and-dc-power-supply/


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kkissinger



Joined: Mar 28, 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 3:30 pm    Post subject: Building again! Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Well, I have (finally) set up my workshop again and my current efforts have been to address some "punch list" items on my modular.

Reset on Clock

The picture below is the (beat up, temporary) panel for a "Reset on Clock" function. This is a modification to a "Skip Clock after Reset" function that I did a couple of years ago (Thus the white labels on the module.)

When using my analog synth with my Looperlative LP1, there is an issue with the Reset -- namely that the MIDI reset is sent prior to it's corresponding clock. The analog clock divider and sequencers expect the reset and clock #1 to happen together however the MIDI reset is sent prior to the Clock #1. Thus, the sequencer would advance to position #2 on Clock #1 (not good).

The "Reset on Clock" uses a 4017 counter chip -- the Reset In signal resets the counter chip. When the counter chip receives the (input) clock signal, it steps to its Clock #2. The clock #2 signal is converted to a trigger and sent to "Delayed Reset Out". Clock #3's signal is used to disable to counter chip -- thus, the counter is ready for the next reset.

Balanced Line-level Outputs

Once again, I utilized a Yusynth design: the audio/CV mixer. Since it has simultaneous direct and inverted outputs, this was all I needed to convert an unbalanced signal to balanced. I just made sure to match all the resistors!

This was the first PCB that I've etched in a couple of years and it sure was fun!

Power Supply Buss Wiring

Not very glamorous -- back in the 1970's when I wired up my back plane connectors, I didn't use thick enough wire for the power supply buss. So I replaced it with suitable wiring.

Bypass Capacitors and coils

Some of the old Aries oscillators had really tiny bypass capacitors and they had no resistor or coil to isolate them from the other modules. Thus, there was some "bleed" from the LFO's, Clocks, and modules with LEDs. So, I went through and modified the offending boards to eliminate the problem.

LED Current-limiting resistors

Whenever the Aries "Switches" module cycled, the blinking LEDs impacted the VCO pitches (ever so slightly, barely audible). The solution was to replace the 1K Ohm current-limiting resistors with 5.6K resistors. This makes the LEDs less bright (not a bad thing, really) and eliminates the transient problems.

the (infamous) Klee Sequencer plugs

If I were to build these sequencers again, I would just solder directly to the boards rather than using headers and plugs. A few of the plugs' contacts were not making secure connections. I went through them "with a fine-tooth comb" and got everything to work. I had kind of procrastinated on this work however once I got busy, it only took me a couple of hours on each sequencer to get them working to spec.

In conclusion:

To visit the old Aries modules that I built nearly 40 years ago and make little changes to them so that they work better-than-new is a lot of fun. This work will enable more spontaneous music-making in that I won't lose time to work around problems.


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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I made some front panels using the toner transfer method.
More info here

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elmegil



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Nice! I wish I could justify the expense of a laser printer....
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PHOBoS



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

They actually aren't even that expensive anymore. I think I paid somewhere between €100,- .. €150,- for mine.
But when I got it I didn't have a printer yet and wanted something I could print full color paper frontpanels with,
so a laser printer was the obvious choice.

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kkissinger



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Nice panel, Phobos!

I've used the PulsarProFX materials to make PCBs and front panels. It takes a little practice to make the front panels without any "glitches". Smile

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