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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software
Nicholas' LM324 LFO circuit
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wax+wire



Joined: Sep 28, 2014
Posts: 17
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 4:17 am    Post subject: Nicholas' LM324 LFO circuit Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

so i've built Nicholas's LFO circuit ( http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-32372.html )

works great running off a single supply 9V power source converted into dual supply.

The output however oscillates between +3/-3V where what I want is it to oscillate purely in the 0-6V +.

I'm using it as an LFO for Tom's Q&D Filter (http://www.jiggawoo.eclipse.co.uk/guitarhq/Circuitsnippets/simplevcf.gif)

thoughts?
Thanks
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elmegil



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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Not clear what you mean "converted to a dual supply".

You need to add a +3V offset, you could run the output into an additional op amp buffering stage to accomplish that..... but only if you have a supply that's capable of going up to 6V. Without understanding your supply that's possibly a sticky problem.
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wax+wire



Joined: Sep 28, 2014
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sorry. I'm running this connected to a casio SK5

So I've changed the power from single supply 9V+ to bipolar power supply 4.5 +/- with two resistors and a capacitor ... (bipolar power is something new to me) -- the circuit is designed for bipolar power

The output triangle/square wave swings from -3V to +3V

The Q&D Filter runs on 9v+ and expects for its CV input 0-9V

at the moment I'm already using 4 stages of the LM324 Quad OPAmp - so I'd be keen if possible to modify this circuit possibly to make it swing from 0-6V rather than have to get another opamp involved

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Cynosure
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Joined: Dec 11, 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Change it back to running on 0/+9V and use a virtual ground. Then you output will be 1.5V to 7.5V.

http://tangentsoft.net/elec/vgrounds.html
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JovianPyx



Joined: Nov 20, 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Cynosure wrote:
Change it back to running on 0/+9V and use a virtual ground. Then you output will be 1.5V to 7.5V.

http://tangentsoft.net/elec/vgrounds.html


According to the datasheet, the LM324 can get to 0 volts, but the upper limit is Vcc - 1.5. So potentially, the range is from 0 to 7.5 volts. However, that's a span of 7.5 volts and the circuit shown runs -3v to +3v which is a span of 6 volts. The OP wants a span of 9 volts, but this is impossible with a PSU of 9 volts. The supply needs to be 10.5 volts to get the range the OP wants and it may require an additional opamp to get that.

And I will insert my usual warning about virtual grounds here. In a small circuit like this, a virtual ground can work. Do not add additional loads to this virtual ground or you'll swamp it.

This subject comes up again and again and the problem documented here is why modular builders use a PSU with plenty of headroom (usually +/- 12 or +/- 15).

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wax+wire



Joined: Sep 28, 2014
Posts: 17
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i don't know exactly why, but i tapped the triangle out before 1K resistor, stuck and depth resistor in series, and *woot* it was working.

I'm not sure if the wave is being truncated when it drops below 0V, but it is sounding good. the skew knob works and the rate works - though only in the middle of the range.

I'll play around later with the 100K resistor like nicholas says, and see if i can extend my rate - i want it to be able to go slower.

I wonder how this would work inside a commodore 64 as an LFO for the paddles? (at the moment i use a 555 circuit, but i really don't like it - the triangle is too weak in voltage, and the square too harsh)
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nicolas3141



Joined: May 25, 2007
Posts: 185
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand

PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The voltage swing is set by the voltage drop of the LEDs, so if you try different colours such as red you can get smaller swings or try zeners (back to back rather than in parallel) if you want higher voltage swings. Using anti-parallel LEDs like this you are also not restricted to symmetrical swings, you could try red/blue for an asymmetrical LFO.

To make it go slower you can increase the size of the cap C1 as big as you like, but remember that unfortunately you can't use anything polarised like an electrolytic in there so you can't easily buy caps much bigger. You could also try increasing the size of the skew pot P2. But probably the easiest change would be to reduce the size of R6 down from 100K to something like 22k.
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nicolas3141



Joined: May 25, 2007
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Location: Christchurch, New Zealand

PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Also, if you want it to go really slow you probably should look at upgrading to a better spec opamp. Doesn't need to be anything expensive, but the LM324 is not ideal for a really slow LFO because of fairly high bias current and noise.
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