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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software
Moog or SSM filters for my Juno 106: worth trying?
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urbanscallywag



Joined: Nov 30, 2007
Posts: 317
Location: sometimes

PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Samples please? Anyone? Confused
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mome rath



Joined: Dec 31, 2005
Posts: 15
Location: the soft under-bellies of 20 carbon dogs

PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Blue Hell wrote:
Uncle Krunkus wrote:
and tap the pliers with a larger set of pliers or small hammer. The pin will just pop out.


And when you're lazy you can just push them out with a hot iron Shocked


correct, sir!!
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jeffery girlsbottom



Joined: Jun 22, 2008
Posts: 27
Location: OZ

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

how is this going?
any hope this would still work on a juno or a jupiter 6?
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radek tymecki



Joined: Mar 22, 2009
Posts: 85
Location: PL

PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

any chance with making tutorial?

i have few ssm2044 and i'd like to use it instead of juno's vcf! Smile

thanks Smile
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johans121



Joined: Jun 19, 2007
Posts: 178
Location: Huntsville, AL (USA)

PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

This is a fascinating thread! I have a friend who has an HS60 (juno 106 w/speakers) with a couple dead voices and this may very well be a solution worth pursuing. Please continue to post your progress!
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radek tymecki



Joined: Mar 22, 2009
Posts: 85
Location: PL

PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

agreed. mine has 2 dead voices.
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Sebo



Joined: Apr 27, 2007
Posts: 564
Location: Argentina

PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi:
Do you see this:
http://matrixsynth.blogspot.com/2009/03/possible-repair-technique-for-80017a.html
I will be trying that soon.

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jeffery girlsbottom



Joined: Jun 22, 2008
Posts: 27
Location: OZ

PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

probably could start buying voice-dead Juno 106s and fix the chips like he has and sell them. hope this and the filter replacement can be more discussed by those with knowlodge.
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Mooger5



Joined: May 02, 2007
Posts: 199
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Greetings

Well I´ve found the old samples! Thought they were lost but here they are, once again.


SSMJUNO-1.wav
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Mooger5



Joined: May 02, 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Second sample...


SSMJUNO-2.wav
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Mooger5



Joined: May 02, 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Third and final...
Awful playing technique, I know Smile

Comments are elsewhere in the thread, since it´s the same old samples.

Keep in mind I never got to finish the project; it´s just to show it works, in case somebody´s still interested.


SSMJUNO-3.mp3
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Mooger5



Joined: May 02, 2007
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I just finished prototyping the final version. The filter sounds clean now. And squelchy. Listen to the soundfile.
I´m still surprised how simple it turned out to be. I gotta go now. Tomorrow we´ll have a look at the schematic. I´m struggling with ExpressPCB (some things don´t seem to work), so I´ll just sketch it on paper.


ssmjunoV2.mp3
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Mooger5



Joined: May 02, 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here´s the schematic. As you can see the filter part is a blatant copy of what´s in the datasheet. It just sounds fine.

Ground connections from the SSM2044 and the TL081 go straight to pin 7 of the voiceboard. From the BA6110 to pin 8. Pin 3 of the OTA I left unconnected (N.C.).

Feel free to ask any questions, make any remarks. I´m still learning. Wink


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radek tymecki



Joined: Mar 22, 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

is there any chance for proto-pcb ?

it'll be easier 4 me Very Happy
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jwilsey



Joined: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 31
Location: Taichung City

PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Sweet! I am all over this. I am glad that you found the time to work on this mooger, good stuff. Laughing
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Mooger5



Joined: May 02, 2007
Posts: 199
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

OK, what you see is not finished yet. And I´ll probably give up on this one. A few resistors are not yet soldered, still lots of traces to cut and due to the power rails and connections between the chips there´ll be lots of noodles flying around. This one would resemble the innards of an old japanese radio. There´s plenty of space, so no reason to cram the components in such small boards. Besides it won´t provide the best ventilation. I think I´ll make a neater solution.


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radek tymecki



Joined: Mar 22, 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ok we're waiting then! Smile
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Mooger5



Joined: May 02, 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ha just take your time then, as stripboard is still a bit messy. Regular perforated board less so, and this is the best I can do. Smile

"#$%&/ Just noticed two errors - IC3 pin 8 should be connected to voice board pin 10 and not connected to IC3 pin 7... (edit - it´s fine afterall, the wire was misrepresented by the program, running over the connection between pin 6 & 7).

My drawn schematic also has a few goofs in the graphic representation of the BA6110 Embarassed


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radek tymecki



Joined: Mar 22, 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ok i'm waiting for final protoboard and calibration procedure
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Mooger5



Joined: May 02, 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Sorry, what final proto-board? The final layout is already posted there. Just populate the board exactly as pictured and it will work. Ok, there are a few errors: there is no IC4 (you can blame the program for that one) , one of the caps is not 180pf but 820 instead and one resistor is wired twice to ground, but they´re easily verified when compared to the drawn schematic.

As for the calibration procedure, just follow the service manual indications, but do it after all the six boards are installed. There will be six aditional active devices (the TL081s) that I expect will draw a bit more current, with possible voltage dropping, so it´ll be best to start by calibrating the power supply.
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Mooger5



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jwilsey wrote:
Sweet! I am all over this. I am glad that you found the time to work on this mooger, good stuff. Laughing


Thanks! I finished one board last night and it worked first time. "Only" five to go now. Don´t hesitate to ask for help if necessary.
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Mooger5



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Here is the first module. The solder side looks a mess but it´s working faultlessly. I used wirewrap wire and the components´ "legs" straight connected where possible. Finally I insulated the solder side with Plastik 70 spray.
It´s a tedious job. Takes more time to make one module than to populate six manufactured PCBs, so I´m already divaguing whether or not the filter directly linked to the vca would be a better option. At least getting rid of that extra opamp would make everything much easier to assemble. It was one of the initial attempts and it all sounded either weak or distorted, but I think I know where the fault lies, now. Tomorrow I´ll breadboard it (it will be the last attempt, I promise) and keep you all posted.


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johans121



Joined: Jun 19, 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 12:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Mooger5 wrote:
Here is the first module.


THAT, sir, is F'ing awesome!

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mono-poly



Joined: Jul 07, 2004
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 2:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

cool man!
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Mooger5



Joined: May 02, 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Always good to hear words of approval! Thanks guys thumleft

Well, I was about to post my recent thoughts on the CEM3396 as a cheaper and far easier to assemble alternative for the project, but I better not get myself carried away by it. The 2044 sounds fantastic and it´s time to reckon the fun is over and the serious work awaits.
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