PLAN B 1/8" jacks??

[loss1234]

does anyone know where pete/plan b get those great looking 1/8" jacks that look more like 1/4" jacks (they use a real nut instead of a circle)


i have checked mouser but dont see anything that looks like that.


thanks

[Ilanode]

Guess he's using the same as Doepfer: Cliff S6.

[loss1234]

anyone know where to get these in the u.s.?
odd i thought plan b was an american company so they must have a good source for these...

thanks

[bubblechamber]

they are probably switchcraft. you can always buy hex nuts to replace the round ones...

[loss1234]

hmmm..anybody know what size nut? id love to start using hex nuts instead.the circular ones always loosen up and dont look as good to my eyes.

thanks for the thought

[Photon]

check out Kobiconn 16PJ012. Mousers got 'em.
I've been using them all along and I've been very happy with them

here's a pic from http://www.sdiy.org/xyzzy:

[numbernone]

JUST GO BANANAS AND NEVER LOOK BACK!!!!

[Wild Zebra]

I like the round ones, I think the problem is not that they come loose, but that they are harder to get good and tight.

[Tim Servo]

I use the Kobicon jacks too, and I like them a lot. If you order those, make sure you DON'T get the 16PJ011, as those have the circular dress nut. BTW, Mouser does sell a tool for properly tightening the circular nut just in case you already have a bunch of those on hand.

The Cliff jacks that Plan B uses are nice, but they are also one of Peter's greatest sources of frustration. The distributors regularly run out of stock, and take many many weeks to fill orders. From what I've heard, they work just fine WHEN you can get the darned things.

Note that the Cliff jacks used by Plan B are meant to be mounted to a panel (threaded bushing) and soldered to a PCB (PCB lug connections), whereas the Kobicon jacks (16PJ012) are panel mounted and used with individual wires (wire lug connections). Look on the same page in the Mouser catalog, and you'll find other jacks in the various mounting styles. On the panel side, you want "threaded bushing with hex dress nut." Oh, and don't use the 16PJ012 with panels thicker than .093" (.063" is ideal). For example, I found these didn't work with PAiA Frac panels (.125" thick), and I had to counterbore the back side of the panels to get my jacks to work. A big PITA.

Tim (not a dress nut) Servo

[Tim Servo]

Oh, and the tool for tightening the circular "knurled" dress nut is the 382-0006 from Mouser (about $6).


Tim (surfer's might call it "knurly, dude") Servo

[loss1234]

great info

thanks all i will check out the kobiconn and the tool

my 13 modules up to now have been circular but i am definitely in need of a change.

oh and here is a silly question i need answered about tightening pots (while we are on the subject)

what kind of tool do you use to tighten pot nuts? a socket wrench? (the arm would bump into other jacks?)...i use needle nose pliers right now but they usually scrape or crush the finish on the nuts..

thanks

[Sound]

Here you have the cliff 1382.

http://export.farnell.com/8044961/connectors/product.us0?sku=CLIFF-ELECTRONIC-COMPONENTS-CL1382&_requestid=13094

But I recommend to you the kobikon jacks. Are more beautiful, the jack plug is better helded, so there is better contact, and are cheaper.

The tool that I use for the pot nuts is a little adjustable spanner

[factus10]

[fonik]

[Funky40]

[goldenechos]

[Thomas Henry]

I've never used 1/8" jacks much, but when I did always liked the professional appearance of the knurled nuts. The late (and still missed) John Simonton recommended using a small pair of diagonal clippers as a spanner. The tips of the clippers slip into the 180 degree slots on the nut. If you are careful, it is straightforward to torque the nut shut without slipping and scratching the panel. I built several PAiA units for friends some three decades ago and must have used this technique a couple hundred times or so without any problems.

Thomas Henry

[goldenechos]