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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software
Coron DS-8 part list
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Sony Crocket



Joined: Sep 27, 2010
Posts: 13
Location: Madrid, Spain

PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:33 am    Post subject: Coron DS-8 part list Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello everybody!

I´m new on this site.

I´d like to build a Coron DS-8 clone.

I plan to buy the pcb from this site:

http://m.bareille.free.fr/ds7clone/ds8.htm

I´d like that someone send me a link with the components I need.

I built some kits, but never had to self source the parts and I´m a bit lost.

Thanks for your attention.

David
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jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
Posts: 346
Location: San Francisco, CA
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Where would you want to source your parts from?

I have a partially complete Mouser project for the DS-8 which I could share. It's only partial because some of the stuff I have on hand and didn't need to order. It might help you get started if you want to order from Mouser.

But if you are in Spain, I don't know what your preferred electronics supplier would be.
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Sony Crocket



Joined: Sep 27, 2010
Posts: 13
Location: Madrid, Spain

PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey!

Thanks for your reply!

I will order the parts from mouser.

I have resistors, pots, caps, etc, but no idea of what ICs and transistors to use for this.

Thanks.

David
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jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
Posts: 346
Location: San Francisco, CA
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ok, here are links for all the ICs. I'm fairly certain all are correct. My DS-8 board is stuffed but I haven't wired it up yet, so I'm in trouble if they aren't!

One tip for sourcing parts -- I often use the parts lists at dragonflyalley.com, modularsynthesis.com, etc. as a resource, even if they don't build the project I am building. If you do a google search for:

site:dragonflyalley.com LM324

...you can find Excel spreadsheets for any project they have built that uses an LM324, including a Mouser part number if relevant. *Usually* this will work for you too, if you are also in the 12-15v SDIY world.

U1 CA3080 -- order this from Bridechamber's Hard to Find ICs

U2-3 512-LM324N

U4 511-UA741CN

U100 511-L7805CV

Q1-3 512-BC550CTA


D1-2 512-1N4148
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Sony Crocket



Joined: Sep 27, 2010
Posts: 13
Location: Madrid, Spain

PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks a lot for the information!

I´m ordering the pcbs right now
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jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
Posts: 346
Location: San Francisco, CA
Audio files: 13

PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

No problem. Also check elsewhere for mods and build info for the DS-8. (This thread is about the DS-7 AND the DS-8, and most info apparently applies to both.)

Additionally, if you saw the Thomas White video about the DS-8 on youtube, you might notice he mentions he replaced the timing cap for a punchier, faster decay. I'm pretty sure that means replacing C1 (3u3) with a 2u2 value. I am going to add a switch to mine to switch between values (2u2 and 3u3 or 2u2 and 4u7 even?) since decreasing the value of this cap means decreasing the maximum release time as well, so why not have both?

And I suspect he chose to add a range switch for his LFO rather than hunt down a 2.2M pot -- he probably just uses a 1M pot plus a 1M resistor in series that an SPST switch toggles on and off.
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tokyomatik



Joined: Jan 20, 2011
Posts: 171
Location: berlin
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i have the bom downloaded from bareille, but i's not completely clear
for example:
r10, is 22 ohm or 22 k?
and r11 220 k, m or ohm?
r28, r29 220 again?
r39 330 ?

also the pcb i'm not sure is one of the best, looks like some holes are not drilled
a construction manual would helpfull.....Razz
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jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
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Location: San Francisco, CA
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

tokyomatik wrote:
r10, is 22 ohm or 22 k?
and r11 220 k, m or ohm?
...


Where there is no K or M, assume you are talking ohms. So 22 ohms etc. Some people use "R" in this case but either way is appropriate.

Quote:
also the pcb i'm not sure is one of the best, looks like some holes are not drilled
a construction manual would helpfull.....Razz


Yeah, these are definitely a little more DIY than average. You might need to drill a few holes he missed. What's more, you will probably want to drill bigger holes in some places, if you plan to use MTA headers and the like. All the holes on the board, IIRC, are sized for resistor leads.

Marc generally sends a build guide with purchase. 6 pages, including schematic, BOM, wiring diagrams, notes about design, and build tips. If you don't have it I can PM you.
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Uncle Krunkus
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Joined: Jul 11, 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I don't have anything specific to add to this thread, but I'd like to keep up to date on what you do.
I've often thought about playing with the DSx circuits, and I have an original DS7 which I could mod/copy.
I just need time and a creamy backdrop for analogue drum shinnanagins! Laughing

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tokyomatik



Joined: Jan 20, 2011
Posts: 171
Location: berlin
Audio files: 6

PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jumunius wrote:
tokyomatik wrote:
r10, is 22 ohm or 22 k?
and r11 220 k, m or ohm?
...


Where there is no K or M, assume you are talking ohms. So 22 ohms etc. Some people use "R" in this case but either way is appropriate.

Quote:
also the pcb i'm not sure is one of the best, looks like some holes are not drilled
a construction manual would helpfull.....Razz


Yeah, these are definitely a little more DIY than average. You might need to drill a few holes he missed. What's more, you will probably want to drill bigger holes in some places, if you plan to use MTA headers and the like. All the holes on the board, IIRC, are sized for resistor leads.

Marc generally sends a build guide with purchase. 6 pages, including schematic, BOM, wiring diagrams, notes about design, and build tips. If you don't have it I can PM you.

actually i bought the pcb from another fella here on E.M. but i didn't received any construnction manual, i also tried to write to him for that but till now no answer.....anyway it was weekend so.....but if somebody can send me a copy i would definitively appreciate, so that i can understand if i have to drill more than one hole before to start with the solder thing....

peace
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jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

tokyomatik wrote:
i would definitively appreciate, so that i can understand if i have to drill more than one hole before to start with the solder thing....


PM'd. The build doc won't tell you where you need to drill, but it's important to see the board layout so you know where to place components. Then, if something is missing a hole it should be obvious. Well, sort of obvious at least. Smile

-Jim
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jumunius



Joined: Apr 19, 2010
Posts: 346
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Uncle Krunkus wrote:
I don't have anything specific to add to this thread, but I'd like to keep up to date on what you do.
I've often thought about playing with the DSx circuits, and I have an original DS7 which I could mod/copy.


Did you notice the far more extensive DS-7 / DS-8 thread here. Several pages, and a bunch of mods too.
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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 1:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yeah, I think I actually started one of those, I'll have to catch up with it again.
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Aum Generator



Joined: Aug 15, 2011
Posts: 11
Location: Bratislava

PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hello
please, can somebody help me?
i'm building a DS8 clone and I see C5 capacitor (22pF ceramic) in the M.Bareille's instructions, but i cannot find any C5 on the PCB...have i overlooked it or is it a typo?
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tokyomatik



Joined: Jan 20, 2011
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

anybody knows the function of J7 & J10 ??
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umschmitt



Joined: Jun 29, 2011
Posts: 189
Location: brrlin
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hey people. As said above, there's another thread about DS7/8 and affiliates around on these pages, with lots of tricks & mods.
Quote:
anybody knows the function of J7 & J10 ??

On page eleven of said thread, jumunius explains an interesting mod he did using these two points. There might be another use, also.
Quote:
i'm building a DS8 clone and I see C5 capacitor (22pF ceramic) in the M.Bareille's instructions, but i cannot find any C5 on the PCB...have i overlooked it or is it a typo?

I couldn't see it either. Typically it should be stuck to R35… On the very same page (!) feggster posted a pic of an original DS8 board where no such 22p cap seems to be seen… (maybe on solder side) My advice, for what it's worth : give it a try with and without the cap, and choose which sound you prefer !

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