I know panel design is an old subject but...

Wizard Mike · Joined: Jan 26, 2009 Posts: 52 Location: Charlotte

I'm using what I have available from previous projects and I think I'm going to stick with this process for a couple reasons; 1. it's cheaper and easier than aluminum routed panels, 2. it allows for back-lighting effects such as led strobes, etc. 3. I prefer photo shop over the panel design software. I can create and print whatever I like.

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Plexi cut and drilled

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Ink-jet printer transparency with functions printed

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Thin gauge aluminum

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Finished unit

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another view...still needs some touch up, but it works for me.

Just thought I'd share an alternative to aluminum front panels for anyone looking to do something different.

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Uncle Krunkus · Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 12:02 am Post subject:

That looks really good Mike.
I tried perspex when I first started, but didn't get thw "whole picture" like you have. I tried to get it all on the perspex alone, with engraved labels. Yuk.
My current method is Lazertran on stained wood veneer on thin (2mm) aluminium.
I might give your method a go though, as I too love using photoshop for my labels.

jochem · Joined: Aug 10, 2008 Posts: 56 Location: groningen

Nice work. It use perspex for the mock up. I find it a bit fragile for drilling at times.

Does your plate give a lot of light reflection? (Like a mirror etc.)

Wizard Mike · Joined: Jan 26, 2009 Posts: 52 Location: Charlotte

Thanks! It reflects a little bit. Nothing like a chromed or mirrored surface though. Fortunately the transparency paper and the aluminum have a matte finish so the only reflection is coming from the plexi surface.

A30N · Posted: Sat May 16, 2009 8:17 am Post subject:

Hi Mike,

I have a couple of questions:

How do you cut you aluminium so straight, any special tools needed or just a steady hand lol.

Is your aluminium plate strong enough to take the dials on its own or is the perspex needed.

I near the stage of building a front plate and never being that good @ cutting stuff straight im worried it will look crap lol

Cheers,
Jamie

Uncle Krunkus · Posted: Sat May 16, 2009 4:21 pm Post subject:

Assuming your only option is to do it by hand;-

(you should be prepared to do it this way even if you have another "easier" option, like access to a guillotine)

Get yourself a small T-square, a metal ruler, a scriber, a decent hacksaw with a new blade, and a medium sized flat finishing file. Make sure you have access to a good (wooden) work surface with an edge you can work across. If the pieces are small, a G-clamp can be really handy when sawing and filing.

Make sure one edge is straight with your ruler, fix it with the file if you need to.
Mark off edges square to that (at the right length) and scribe them so they're easy to see. Hacksaw right up close to them, and finish off with the file.
Then mark out the other edge, cut and file like the others.
If you want to make "perfectly" straight edges; - Get them close, then run a black marker pen along the edge. Put your file flat on the marked surface and move it gently back and forth a couple of times. The high points will have the marker rubbed off and go shiny. File these bits down a bit more and repeat. Wink

A30N · Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 8:17 am Post subject:

alder · Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 9:30 am Post subject:

I also use plexiglas, you can print out your layout on any kind of paper you choose then sprayglue it to the plex - drilling holes is no problem if you use a very small bit for a pilot hole then a spade bit to finish.

Wizard Mike · Joined: Jan 26, 2009 Posts: 52 Location: Charlotte

Hey there A30N,
Like Uncle said, you really need a good T-square, files, etc. and a stable wood surface to clap things down on.
The materials I work with though were initially based on what I had available, but I'm so pleased with the results that I am going to stick with this process. Here's a run down:
All my panels are 8.75 inches in height, so I first get the largest piece of plexi (not lexan) I can find and carefully measure (measure and then remeasure) out my 8.75" and mark it with a sharpie. (Leave the protective plastic film on the plexi till your ready to put it all together).
I then take a metal ruler, yard stick or anything with a strait metal edge and lay it across the mark I made for my initial cut ( be sure to lay your ruler/strait edge over top of the piece you are going to use. This will prevent any stray cuts ruining your panel because the metal edge will stop any stray cuts) . I remeasure again to make sure its accurate and then I clamp it down on my work surface.
I go with more of a glass cutting method on working with plexi. I first use a utility knife with a new, sharp razor blade (I've found that the hooked razor blades work really well) and gently make my first couple of passes along the metal edge/sharpie line. Each time I go over it with the blade I add just a bit more pressure until a nice little channel starts to form. That is gonna be your guide line. I then take a wood working knife with a 45 degree edge (or they usually have plexi cutting knives at the hardware store) and start following the initial score made by the razor blade. This is a tedious process but I have found that my cuts are always straighter then when I use a saw alone.
Score, score and score again. And once you think you're done, score the material a few more times. I then take the hacksaw and do a couple of sweeps at either end of the panel to make sure that the cuts are the same depth all the way through. Once your score mark is at least half way through your material then un-clamp it, turn it over and rest your mark against the edge of your work surface. Gently push down and it should snap right where you've been cutting.
Determine the length of the panel you need and then repeat the process again. All this could take maybe about half an hour (despite my long windedness)
Control panel markings: I just either download or create my own in photoshop and print it onto a transparency. If the program you are using has the option, be sure to go into the "view" option and show grid lines. It will make arranging your art a lot easier. I use 3M multipurpose transparencies (about $50 for 65 sheets at OfficeMax) because I can use either my laser printer or ink jet if I want a bit more color. I spray the art with plenty of clear coat lacquer (because its what I have laying around.)
The aluminum... The sheet aluminum I am using is just a bit thicker than that found on a soda can. It's cheap and easy to work with. After the art has dried, I tape it down on the aluminum using painters tape and grab another fresh razor blade or an exacto knife. I "eye up" where I want my cut and put a metal rule down. Don't try to cut all the way through the transparency and the aluminum at the same time. Your first cuts will take care of the art and the following cuts is to simply score the aluminum. You eventually see a ridge forming at the bottom of the metal and that will be good enough. You don't have to try to cut all the way through because just a bit of bending will cause the sheet to tear away at your score marks. Repeat for each edge. ( Since the metal is so thin, you can easily round out the corners using a pair of scissors.)
Putting it all together.
On the work surface, lay down your plexi then the aluminum and then the art work (Face down so everything is backwards. This will prevent you from scratching your art). Line everything up and tape it all together. I then take a small drill bit ( and I mean as small I can find that probably wont break) and drill my guide holes down through the transparency, aluminum and plexi. If you have a drill press then you'll be doing much better than me!
After the guide holes are drilled, remove the transparency and set it off in a safe place. Using a step up or very sharp drill bit I open up the holes to fit my hardware. I prefer a step up at medium speed because it gently scrapes away the plexi. Every time I have cracked plexi it was because the drill bit got bound up in the material.
Take an exacto and cut the mounting holes in your art (a drill will only tear up your work) and put it all together. I usually use the aluminum or the plexi as a surface to work on because you can drag the blade around the hole and trim off the transparency.
Whew! Sorry if I got long winded, but I tend to do that! I really hope you find some of this usefull. After the art is edited and printed (this is the longest part for me) I can usually have a panel cut, drilled and mounted in about 2 hours if I'm taking my time.

A30N · Posted: Mon May 18, 2009 12:36 pm Post subject:

Wow thanks Wizard Mike for taking tme to write all that down.

Certainly some useful stuff for me in there. I may just use the plexiglass and get a vinyl sticker of my design done for the front.

monokinetic · Joined: Aug 01, 2006 Posts: 100 Location: prague

Hi,
this is a very helpful thread! I've been wondering about the aluminium part in the original post. Is it important to use the aluminium as well as the plexiglass to reduce RF interference etc or do people get away with only plexi?

And when drilling plexi what type of drill bit do you recommend?

Thanks in advance

David

Wizard Mike · Joined: Jan 26, 2009 Posts: 52 Location: Charlotte

I use the aluminum for 2 reasons. First, and most importantly, so that all the pots, switches, jacks, etc. has a common ground. You could solder a wire across the backs of all said hardware and then go to ground but that's a lot of extra work. The second reason is for mere aesthetics. I think the black art work looks pretty decent with the aluminum background. You could use what ever material you like though so long as it is conductive, aluminum, brass, copper...there are all sorts of foil options out there. Paint it if you like so long as the back remains unfinished to allow everything to share a ground. If you want to go the plexi route alone, you definitely want to ground all the components.

As far as drill bits go, I generally start with a small guide hole and then use a step up bit at a medium speed to gently ream out the openings. If you don't take your time you can easily break or melt and warp your panel.
Good luck!

alder · Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 10:58 pm Post subject:

Hello Wizard Mike,

When you mentioned "foil options" would a heavy aluminum foil work ?

MFOS's website has been stressing grounding pots lately, didn't do it when I built the original SoundLab but have had no problems so far ..

Wizard Mike · Joined: Jan 26, 2009 Posts: 52 Location: Charlotte

Yes, heavy foil should work fine. I imagine typical household aluminum foil would work to ground the hardware Smile

alder · Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 10:55 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the reply, will add a foil back from now on.

Plexi just seems a lot easier to work with to me - I use a 1/4" paddle bit & a 5/8" glass drilling bit (any hardware store has them) to drill holes with, they don't grab the material like regular drill bits. Just drill deep enough to get the hole dia. you want (both sides), finish with regular bit if you want exact hole size.