Cacophonator Strip Board

[-minus-]

OK, well that makes sense. Clearly 2000AD has appropriated Mr Joyce in the series, Sinister Dexter... which doesn't surprise me in the least. Finnegan Sinister and Ramone Dexter are two bullet monkeys from a future Europe called Downlode.

And the moral of this off topic rant is, I should be reading the classics, not comics !

[idxsem]

Okay, thanks for all the help so far. I have most of the parts, and am waiting on the rest.

One pretty naive question, the underside vs the components side: is the picture of the underside represent the flipped board, i.e. are those cuts going to be on the opposite side when I flip it over, or are they sitting where they would be looking at the board from the component side?

[Gordon Charlton]

The cuts are going to be on the opposite side when you flip it over. (Flip it left to right, not top to bottom.)

The clue is resistors R1 R2 R3, and R12 R11 R4 - they should each attach to the board on either side of a cut.

[idxsem]

thanks so much. Is this a general rule when reading layouts?

[Gordon Charlton]

I don't know - I'm a beginner too. It seems the sensible way to do it though, so probably.

[-minus-]

Yep... flip left to right, not top to bottom. Not sure what the general rule is, or if there indeed is one. I probably should have indicated this on the diagrams with an arrow on the top of the board or something. Usually with stripboard diagrams you can work out what the deal is by looking at the components and the striboard diagram.

Good luck with the building! Try the Krunkus WSG stripboard if you like this device....

EDIT: Not sure if you know how to do the cuts but I'll explain anyway.... Use a 3MM drill bit and a pin vice if you have one... or a slow cordless drill would be ok. Drill just enough to break the track. Mark out the hole to drill with a permanent marker pen first and double check before you drill! Looking at the underside of the stripboard, just mark the holes/cuts exactly as in the diagram.

[idxsem]

Hey, I got this working. The set up was pretty simple once I got all the parts. Not housed in anything just yet.

I have another question:
What gauge wire do you think is best to use?

[idxsem]

oh and also, what about an on-off switch for this?

[Gordon Charlton]

Just a simple single pole single throw toggle switch on the +ve line from the battery is fine.

Or an antique knife switch if you want to go all steampunk...

[-minus-]

WOOOOHOOOO! I should check these forums a bit more often! Good to see you have it working. You can just put a switch along the (+) wire from the battery. It should be self explanatory once you try it.

Nice knife switch illustration too. Very in keeping with the theme! Instant album cover- just add noise!

[LektroiD]

Has anyone managed to work out the component numeration on the version with the audio input yet?

[idxsem]

thanks again for all the help.
I am running into an issue. Turning the 10k pot in certain position, there is no sound whatsoever. Any thoughts?

[blue_lu]

[blue_lu]

ok, so the old unit is disfunctional, even after I applyed the changes of minus' revised layout.

So I am just going to perf the advanced cacophonator from site 2. since this is not the smartest move, please bare with me...

[rosch]

hi blue_lu, i built it on perfboard from this schematic last winter. works fine.

[blue_lu]

rosch thanks for the heads up! the advanced cacophonator from subtle noise maker is already perfed - but the wiring is a major pita.

the led lightens up - so that is a good sign - also no smoke so far

I will have to wait for some on-off-on switches from banzai, which can take ages... maybe I will just continue with some on-on switches and skip some cap options. the amount of cabeling drives me insane though...

[blue_lu]

suprisingly the baby is up and alive. audio input is pretty nutts!

I will house her tomorrow.

thanks for posting the layout. it works! (cables are a PAIN )

[blue_lu]

alright here she is, housed in a standard 1590 enclosure. battery outside.

I hope I will never have to open that case again - this thing is a jungle inside.

but the sounds are nice...

[rosch]

cool, that looks fine! now i get it, the advanced (hence the name) has much more possibilities than the guy i've built, and, i have a totally ridiculous "case" for mine:
flickr album

[blue_lu]

rosch, very ghetto and cool .

here is a short video of my purple nurple....

Advanced Cacophonator / Cacophonator 2 from Max Mux on Vimeo.

[jean bender]

Hi Everybody !

I think that i'll build this funny noise maker, but i don't understand one thing in this schematic...

look at fluxmonkey website, looney board part :



How work the both oscillators we can see in the down right part of the schematic. They seem to be connected to the ground, so what do they do ? Is it a kind of Lfo ?

Thanks for any help, it's the first time i see that, and it's a bit weird for me !

cheers

[tjookum]

judging from the 4.7uF capacitor used it should oscillate at LFO speeds. I don't have a clue why it is not connected to anything.
The only logical explanation I can see is that arthur harrisons wants to show you what you could do with the 2 leftover inverters on the 40106.
Another possiblity might be that it produces crosstalk in the 40106 making it behave in strange ways.

[inlifeindeath]

yes they are LFO's that interact with the starve function of the circuit, very strange design but sounds really cool!

[jean bender]

Ok !! Thanks for your answers.

So the starve pot is RV5 ? Could you explain me how acts C7, and also the 2nd switch, "charge" ?

thanks for all !

[inlifeindeath]

yeah RV5 is a starve pot. C7 basically stores current so that when the power source is disconnected, the capacitor slowly discharges. it's really wacky, you really have to hear it to understand it. the charge switch is just a momentary switch that temporarily connects the power source in turn charging and discharging C7.