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How to cut slits in aluminum?
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sneakthief



Joined: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 569
Location: Berlin

PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:52 am    Post subject: How to cut slits in aluminum? Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I've had my Klee parts sitting around for a while but have been daunted at the thought of cutting slits in an aluminum front panel for slider pots. Local CNC places are too expensive at the moment.

I've thought of various methods but was hoping that someone here had actual experience in doing it.

Ideas so far:

- use a cutting disk on an electric drill (is this accurate enough?)

- drill a couple of pilot-holes with my drill-press and borrow a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut the slits (will the slits be straight?)

- use a jeweler's saw to cut it (a lot of manual work!)

Any advice would be welcome!

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Joined: Feb 02, 2010
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I use a dremel with a cutting disk, though it depends on how perfectionist you are because you are not likely to have everything 100% perfect.

I cut these slider slits with one. Though this is not aluminum, aluminum actually probably cuts more easily.

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

I use the little aluminum strips to mask inconsistencies and add to the visual design.

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sneakthief



Joined: Jul 24, 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Actually, you might be on to something.

You know, I could do a messy hack-job and but if I found some kind of nice aluminum sticker or something I could cover it up in an artistic manner.

:thinking of Dymo metal label adhesive tape:

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fonik



Joined: Jun 07, 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jigsaw and a file? i did it for power inlets, which needed a buch bigger cutout, though.
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sneakthief



Joined: Jul 24, 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Jigsaw and file for 16 thin slits Sad

Not sure how I feel about that.

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rosch



Joined: Oct 03, 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

it really depends on your skills.
you could use all my cutouts for cnc advertisement, but i've also seen builds (i believe around here, or a mixer) with handcut fader slits that were absolutely perfect.
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fonik



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sneakthief wrote:
Jigsaw and file for 16 thin slits Sad

Not sure how I feel about that.

Laughing
absolutely. especially the file part!

if you count the hours, then you should think about a schaeffer panel.

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TekniK



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

2.5mm drill and file should work
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fonik



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

2.5mm drill + 2.5mm file? and then fix a guide to file along? great idea.
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softfin



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

TekniK wrote:
2.5mm drill and file should work


I've done all my power connector and panel meter cutouts that way...Works, but it isn't much fun and takes time. I vote schaeffer Smile
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Joined: Feb 02, 2010
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Drilling and filing flat out sucks, quite frankly.
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kkissinger



Joined: Mar 28, 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You can do excellent work with a Dremel drill with a cutting wheel.

You will definitely need to clamp your panel while drilling so that you can use both hands to control the drill.

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Danno Gee Ray



Joined: Sep 25, 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Another option would be a nibbler.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nibbler
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sneakthief



Joined: Jul 24, 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks for all the suggestions!

I've done enough sawing with a jeweler's saw in the past to know that I simply don't have the patience to use that method for so many slits in such a narrow area.

I realize how important a Dremel can be and yet I haven't needed one up until now. I suppose I should find someone who can lend me theirs.

Drilling with a cutting disk from the backside would be the best bet in terms of the angle of entry on the bottom and top edges - and not having to worry about scuffing the surface.

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diablojoy



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I have used a router in the past to do these [ hitachi TR12 ]
I use 3mm aluminium panels so the smallest width i could recommend is 3/16 or roughly 3 mm under that the bits tend to break , don't try to use a bit smaller than the thickness of the material it will most likely break and definitely wear safety glasses preferably full face also lube sticks or a good cutting oil help a lot as ally tends to clog the bit and otherwise blunts the bit quite quickly.
you need to set up fences and end stops for each cut so a jig made from scrap ply the width of the router base and longer than the router by the length of cut will work best here and then clamp the jig and the panel down really well.
then just move the jig for each cut and reclamp.need to work slowly and take 3 or 4 passes to complete each cut . It is a perhaps a bit slow and tedious but way better than a dremel or a jewelers saw and as long as you take the time
with your measuring and the setting up is accurate the finish is spot on
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emdot_ambient



Joined: Nov 22, 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Unless you have mad skillz, have the right type of pro quality tools, get really lucky or just don't really care how gnarly it's going to look: Schaeffer panels or a local metal fabricator is the best answer. More expensive, but less time and will end up looking professional.
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Joined: Feb 02, 2010
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sneakthief wrote:
Thanks for all the suggestions!

I've done enough sawing with a jeweler's saw in the past to know that I simply don't have the patience to use that method for so many slits in such a narrow area.

I realize how important a Dremel can be and yet I haven't needed one up until now. I suppose I should find someone who can lend me theirs.

Drilling with a cutting disk from the backside would be the best bet in terms of the angle of entry on the bottom and top edges - and not having to worry about scuffing the surface.


I got a kawasaki brand dremel-like thing with a ton of attachments for like $30 or $45 (don't remember for sure). It has saved me so much work. I use it a ton for trimming out plastic in re-purposed enclosures such as toys and the like.

For smaller cuts, it is much easier to use and more precise than my jig saw.

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jksuperstar



Joined: Aug 20, 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You can also look for a cheap tool, that is called a Metal Nibbler (at least in the states it has this name).

Looks like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/nibbling-cutter-97636.html

If you use a jig or straight-edge, you can make a good clean cut. Depends on your own hand control, but it's square, so it's fairly easy to keep straight (especially if you've drawn guide lines). Then just minimal filing to clean it up.

Look for youtube videos on the subject, but basically you drill a small pilot hole, then insert the tool and 'nibble' your slit small bites at a time. Also good for LCD windows, or any other shape that needs squared holes.

Sorry I don't have any example pics to post.
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sneakthief



Joined: Jul 24, 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

re. nibbler - I think they're better suited to squares than slits. I foresee a lot of filing and cursing Razz

emdot_ambient wrote:
Unless you have mad skillz, have the right type of pro quality tools, get really lucky or just don't really care how gnarly it's going to look: Schaeffer panels or a local metal fabricator is the best answer. More expensive, but less time and will end up looking professional.


Yes, I know exactly what you mean.


PS. my diy-results have been acceptable so far - here's a custom pattern-sequencer I built based on the MIDIbox OS:

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
http://sneak-thief.com/sneakyseq.html

And here's my modular & passive summer:

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

(Mankato, Woggle Bug x2, Neural Agonizer, Resonator, Attenuvertor)
(MIDIbox CV, Sequential Switch, Wave Multiplier)
(SN-Voice x2, Bi'n'Tic, Synthacon, Polivox)
(Sub-Osc, Burst Generator, Little Lag x2, Dual LFO, Psycho LFO)
(Blacet VCO, LFO, Multi, Filthy Filtre, Quad VCA)
(ASM-2 + Boss CE2 Chorus + Rebote 2.5 Delay)
(Double PSU, Adjustable Lab PSU)

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emdot_ambient



Joined: Nov 22, 2009
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sneakthief wrote:
PS. my diy-results have been acceptable so far - here's a custom pattern-sequencer I built based on the MIDIbox OS:

Very well done!

However, slits for sliders on a Klee...That's a lot different from the panel holes you've cut so far. There's like 16 slots you'll need, right? If it were me, I'd never attempt it. You not only have to worry about cutting them wide enough (and all more or less the same width), but also all the correct/same length, AND also cut them all perfectly parallel with the panel and with each other. Many chances to go wrong there.

Still, you're a braver man than I, Gunga Din!

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andrewF



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I guess some of us can cut 16 slider slots by hand and make them straight/neat/identical. I sure can't.

Just drew up a quick panel in FPD with just 16 slider slots and mounting holes, no text
17x7cm panel, with sixteen 5cm slots plus 32 3mm holes for mounting the sliders = $40
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sneakthief



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I just tried a 19" 3U panel with fpd using only 16 slits, 32 mounting-holes for the sliders and 4 rackmount holes: 76 euro including shipping...
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emdot_ambient



Joined: Nov 22, 2009
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

So here's what you do...figure out how many hours it would take you layout and cut all the slots and drill all the holes. Divide 76 euros by the # of hours you think it would take you.

Like, let's just say it averages 15 minutes per cut to do all the layout and cutting/drilling (drilling won't take that long, but the slots will bump the average up quite a bit). That's 720 minutes, or about 12 hours...76 euros / 12 hours = 6.33 euros/hour ($8.60 USD).

Now ask if your time is worth 6.33 euros or more per hour. If the answer is "yes", then go ahead and order the panel. If not, then DIY.

Very Happy

Of course if you think you can get all that done in less than 12 hours, then the final calculation would be a higher amount.

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andrewF



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I was just considering getting a panel made to hold the sliders, which could then be mounted onto the main panel holding all of the regular components.

Another option would be to get the slider panel made as a PCB (Bugbrand panels are (were?) PCBs). One 17cm X 7cm PCB from Futurlec would cost $23, tho I suspect they don't cut slots, many places do tho.

If you go the PCB route, just get a panel for the sliders done, a full 3U made of PCB would not be very strong.
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j.dilisio



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I used a 3" cutoff wheel air compressor attachment for my klee panel.
It's quick and easy. File the ends and you're done.

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