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c1rcu1t
Joined: May 04, 2020 Posts: 10 Location: EU
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dk
Joined: Feb 12, 2019 Posts: 115 Location: Europe
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Posted: Wed Apr 14, 2021 9:44 am Post subject:
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Hi, the 100n cap (104) should probably be larger and a different type. While we're hardly working with precision circuits or audiophile signal paths, ceramic capacitors are a pretty poor choice for removing DC offset from a signal (which is the function of this cap in your circuit) and 100n is small enough to remove a lot of still musical low frequency content. From a functional standpoint, you're aiming to have the cap small enough to remove the DC offset while keeping it large enough to have most of the action in the frequencies below human hearing. I'd reckon a 10-47uF electrolytic would be fine there. You might get away with as small as a 1uF. _________________ Horrors Of Dial-Up! on Facebook
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c1rcu1t
Joined: May 04, 2020 Posts: 10 Location: EU
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Posted: Wed Apr 14, 2021 10:48 am Post subject:
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dk wrote: | Hi, the 100n cap (104) should probably be larger and a different type. While we're hardly working with precision circuits or audiophile signal paths, ceramic capacitors are a pretty poor choice for removing DC offset from a signal (which is the function of this cap in your circuit) and 100n is small enough to remove a lot of still musical low frequency content. From a functional standpoint, you're aiming to have the cap small enough to remove the DC offset while keeping it large enough to have most of the action in the frequencies below human hearing. I'd reckon a 10-47uF electrolytic would be fine there. You might get away with as small as a 1uF. |
thank you for the fast reply! Yes i saw this application of the ceramic cap on circuit online but i was having doubts it was a good thing to do.. I want a simple circuit not a audiophile one but yes i think its more correct to use an electrolytic capacitor with a higher value.. thank you for sharing and explaining. I'm going to experiment between 10uf-47uf.. do you think i should add before the potentiometer or after? Is this sufficient to be safe for connecting this instrument to line level equipment like mixers and amps? or should i add more things like a resistor in series to the volume potentiometer? Im going to search more around this topic, its something i would like to understand better, this part related to sound output with line levels and DC offset. |
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dk
Joined: Feb 12, 2019 Posts: 115 Location: Europe
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Posted: Wed Apr 14, 2021 11:45 am Post subject:
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The cap should be after the pot.
What voltage are you running this off of? Assuming 5V-9V, there is no issue with connecting this directly to a mixer. You have a volume knob to turn it down to prevent clipping, but unless you connect it to consumer gear running off of a tiny power supply (ie USB), I can't imagine you damaging anything with it. _________________ Horrors Of Dial-Up! on Facebook
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Steveg

Joined: Apr 23, 2015 Posts: 184 Location: Perth, Australia
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Posted: Wed Apr 14, 2021 7:13 pm Post subject:
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Hi piupiupiu,
A coupling capacitor of 1uF to 10uF would be usual. The output through the amp may be disappointing compared to the line out jack because the capacitor and the resistors near pin 3 will form a high pass filter.
That feed to the amp has been designed for a symmetrical power supply +/-15 volts or similar. If you use it on a single ended power supply you will have the input to pin 3 going negative for half the square wave cycle which may damage the amp. For a single ended power supply you need to bias pin 3 to half Vcc rather than ground. |
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c1rcu1t
Joined: May 04, 2020 Posts: 10 Location: EU
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Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 6:47 am Post subject:
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dk wrote: | The cap should be after the pot.
What voltage are you running this off of? Assuming 5V-9V, there is no issue with connecting this directly to a mixer. You have a volume knob to turn it down to prevent clipping, but unless you connect it to consumer gear running off of a tiny power supply (ie USB), I can't imagine you damaging anything with it. |
its running on 9v! Yes i think with the potentiometer it will be sufficient to protect and prevent clipping :- ) thank you! |
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c1rcu1t
Joined: May 04, 2020 Posts: 10 Location: EU
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Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 6:58 am Post subject:
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Steveg wrote: | Hi piupiupiu,
A coupling capacitor of 1uF to 10uF would be usual. The output through the amp may be disappointing compared to the line out jack because the capacitor and the resistors near pin 3 will form a high pass filter.
That feed to the amp has been designed for a symmetrical power supply +/-15 volts or similar. If you use it on a single ended power supply you will have the input to pin 3 going negative for half the square wave cycle which may damage the amp. For a single ended power supply you need to bias pin 3 to half Vcc rather than ground. |
Hi Steveg, thank you so much for your reply!
I'm just powering with a 9v battery a 40106 chip and the Lm386, I want to keep the circuit simple with minimal parts, so i could just remove those two resistors and just use the volume the potentiometer to pin 3? or should i add a resistor too? I have a small speaker connected to the Lm386 8ohm 1w, I just wanted to have a way to people could hear/preview the sound of the circuit on the instrument itself, it hasn't to be very high quality. But at the same time to have that line out available to be able to connect it to better external amps and mixers, thats why i added a switching jack. Also maybe it isn't necessary to have the two oscillators mixed with diodes going to the buffer, thought it would be good for stabilize, but im having doubts about it, I think maybe i will just connected them to the volume potentiometer : - ) |
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Steveg

Joined: Apr 23, 2015 Posts: 184 Location: Perth, Australia
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Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 4:34 pm Post subject:
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The effect of the two resistors is to divide the input to the amp chip by 11. I assumed they were there because you knew you needed a much higher level going to the line out than the amp. Just removing the resistors won't change the negative voltage situation (it may not damage the chip but you will be relying on the chip's internal protection diodes which are only meant for emergencies).
It may be as simple as removing the 100K resistor and replacing the 10K resistor with a 100K resistor and adding a new 100K resistor from pin 3 to +9 volts. The resistors need to be the same value to balance the input to pin 3 at about 4.5 volts. If the resistors have a too low value they will form a high pass filter with the coupling capacitor. If you are getting too much volume you could replace the volume pot with a 10K pot and put a 100K resistor between the pot and buffer. Even better might be a 1K pot and 10K resistor. Go any lower than that and you would be causing the buffer to supply too much current.
(my memory says 10K is a safe minimum load for a 40106 at 12V so if I have not completely mis-remembered it will be good for 9V. An 11:1 reduction brings the 9V peak to peak (p-p) supplied by the 40106 down to near the 1V p-p expected by standard line out conventions and most amps. With a 1K pot you could probably tweak that 10K down to 8K without problems.) |
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PHOBoS

Joined: Jan 14, 2010 Posts: 5825 Location: Moon Base
Audio files: 709
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Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 6:13 am Post subject:
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Steveg wrote: | That feed to the amp has been designed for a symmetrical power supply +/-15 volts or similar. If you use it on a single ended power supply you will have the input to pin 3 going negative for half the square wave cycle which may damage the amp. For a single ended power supply you need to bias pin 3 to half Vcc rather than ground. |
The LM386 (not an opamp) is designed for a single supply and having pin 2 connected to GND and using pin 3 as the input is the
standard configuration. It probably has some internal biasing as it is not uncommon to have a capacitor in series with its input.
It also has a rather high gain so the attenuation might not be so bad but that depends on how loud you want it to be. _________________ "My perf, it's full of holes!"
http://phobos.000space.com/
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