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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Klee sequencer
Electro-Music Klee Sequencer Build and Applications Thread
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Luka



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

on the topic of grounding and front panels
my panels are made of light grade steal
will these suffer more from grounding issues than alluminum?

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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 5:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

No, they'll be fine.

I actually didn't connect any socket grounds at the panel, only functional grounds such as the bottom of the sliders etc. I've added a simple +/-15V PSU, and connected the mains ground to the case, and 0V. So the sockets all get their reference off the case. Works fine.

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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
Build doc page 55.

"Analogue Board J1" and "Analogue Board J3"

should be:

"Digital Board J1" and "Digital Board J3"

Right?


Holy cow, you're right! That just blows my mind - the illustrations are particularly troublesome to do with my setup, so I swear I went through each one several times - yet........

Anyway, thanks for pointing that out. I'll add it to the erratum and incorporate it into build 5, which should come out probably a week after every Klee has been built Laughing

I won't be able to issue a correction page 'til about Monday or so.

Cheers,
Scott

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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
Holy cow, you're right! That just blows my mind - the illustrations are particularly troublesome to do with my setup, so I swear I went through each one several times - yet........

Anyway, thanks for pointing that out. I'll add it to the erratum and incorporate it into build 5, which should come out probably a week after every Klee has been built Laughing

I won't be able to issue a correction page 'til about Monday or so.


Wait..wait...wait. The illustration is correct! Sorry, no morning coffee - the gate bus switch connections do come off the Analogue board. I looked at the illustration and thought "pattern switch".

Cheerios,
Caffeinated Scott

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Pehr



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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I know, deleted the post when I found out. I thought all gate signals went to the digital board but they do actually jump to the analog via some diodes first Cool

Btw, I actually found a misprint:

Page 59, Figure 6-10, above leftmost LED:

Code:
D16
Stage 1
Red LED


Should be:

Code:
D16
Stage 16
Red LED


Right?

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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Righto!
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fonik



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Scott Stites wrote:
1K is the default value for R33 only if you want 8V fixed range there.

Otherwise, you select the value of R33 depending on how much maximum voltage you want to be able to dial up on your variable range. A larger value of voltage will allow you to swing the variable range around more, but a lower voltage will make it easier to set smaller increments.
(...)
R33 forms a voltage divider with the variable range pot, which is 100K, so it sets how much voltage will actually be available at the wiper pot. The applied voltage at the top of the divider is 10V.


so what to do if i don't use a potentiometer but just a bare input socket without attenuation? 100k as common impedance?

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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

You could tack a 100K resistor from the tip lug of the input jack to the ground lug, that would do it!
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fonik



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Scott Stites wrote:
You could tack a 100K resistor from the tip lug of the input jack to the ground lug, that would do it!

thank you for the fast reply, scott. now i see! since i just use the "external only" option i omit R33.

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fonik



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

so sorry, scott. i did not use the current interconnect file so i was missing page 9, showing the variable voltage options! now i see R33 is influent for the option i chose, because it is not connected to anything Very Happy
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a.b.o.z.



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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I just started solderin analogue board..
and first thing I'm not shure is... what values are 100R resistors? R49-R57
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guitarfool



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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

a.b.o.z. wrote:
I just started solderin analogue board..
and first thing I'm not shure is... what values are 100R resistors? R49-R57


"100R" = 100 ohms

Common nomenclature is "R" for ohms, "M" for mega-ohms and "K" for kilo-ohms. Nowadays, most people follow the euro tradition of putting one of the 3 letters where the decimal point would be, such as:

"1K5" = 1.5 kilo-ohms, "2M2" = 2.2 mega-ohms
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a.b.o.z.



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

oh so simple. thnx Smile
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Pehr



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 7:48 am    Post subject:
Subject description: Calibrating the Klee
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Possible misprint: Shouldn't all the voltages on pin 1 of U8 be negative? It says positive in table 10-1, but I read negative on mu DVM Confused

See page 112.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yes, they should be negative. I thought I'd fixed that! Embarassed
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a.b.o.z.



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:18 am    Post subject: Gate Bus Resistors Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

one question..
for now I will mostly use klee with two MFOS soundlabs.
what voltages do i need?
5 or 10?
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'd go for the 10V range myself. Actual voltage will be 9V.

A quick look at the design shows Ray's got 9.1V zeners on the gate input, so there's nothing to worry about in that regard.

Cheers,
Scott

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

The Sound Lab EG triggers from about 2V.
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Tronato



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 2:53 pm    Post subject: Power Supply Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello Genltlemen!

Hope you've all had a great holiday!

I regained conciousness yesterday morning!

How are you all powering the klee?

Thanks!

TRON
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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I built my own little +/-15V supply and installed it in the case. Just a 7VA 15-0-15 transformer, fuse, rectifier, 2200uFs, 7815/7915, 100nFs and out to the boards. Works fine.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I use this PSU (337/317) set to +/- 12V with a 15VAC transformer.
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Alienation



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ken Stone's CGS66 power supply pcb is going into mine, you can get the parts for it from Jameco with little hassle perusing their catalog.

I have to say Ken Stone's stuff has helped tremendously with getting the Klee off the desk and into action. Smile

I also used his LED buffer circuit pcb.
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Tronato



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello Alienation!
Ken Stones' CGS 66 is precisely the one I'm building but I have great doubts regarding the orientation of the voltage regulators.
Looking at it with tha 4 diodes in square formation to your left should the part of the regulators that have the letters/numbers printed both be visible?
Do you have a picture of it?

Thanks!

TRON
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Tronato



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello!

This is an e-mail I sent to Ken Scott which left me with more doubts than answers regarding the CGS 66 regulated power supply...
By the way I would still like to know the orientation of the Voltage Regulator IC's...

The transformer is a Stancor P-8693 and it's specifications apppear
on
the following page:
>
>
http://www.newark.com/jsp/content/printCatalog.jsp?display=single&cat=cat125
&page=1413
>
> Will this work?

This one will only work if the outer wires are wired between 0V and
18VAC
pads on the circuit board, and the center tap is NOT USED.

?????
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Alienation



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'm using a Jameco transformer part # 149957 on page 171 in the catalog-$9.59 USD.

Ken Stone is pretty clear in his description of wiring for the transformer. 18V split off the secondary center tap to ground.


Also check the silkscreened orientation on the CGS66 PCB for the Voltage regulators they are marked as to mounting position. Ken recommends heat sinks and gives specifics on the type to use, these too can be found @ Jameco.

Hope this helps.
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