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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Klee sequencer
Electro-Music Klee Sequencer Build and Applications Thread
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Sound



Joined: Jun 06, 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Scott Stites wrote:
Quote:
1) Say that you have the rotary switch range at 5 position. The step potentiometers are limited at 1V that means one octave. So , if one step pot is at 12h Is it an exactly half octave?


Pretty much so, yeah.


So... will be more useful (with knobs) a 12 divisions round scale than only 10 Very Happy

Scott Stites wrote:
Quote:
2) Why the Klee sequencer is designed without a Clock?


Actually it was to break the paradigm of thinking it needed to be rhythmically clocked.


It is nice. Better.

Thanks!
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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Note: At this point, the thread branched off into the Pimping Your Klee thread.

Cheerio,
Scott

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plord



Joined: Dec 15, 2007
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Location: Charlotte, VT

PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:45 am    Post subject: front panel parts - sanity check Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hey folks,

If someone could help me out with a sanity check I'd really appreciate it. Here's my Mouser order for front panel parts; I'm building a slider Klee using Dennis' Wiard front panel, with no mods requiring extra panel parts (I will put in 10V gates though). I've got jacks so no worries there. I've included a couple of knob types to check out (not positive that the wide ones will work without modding the panel for a smidge more room), plus extras for all parts. Can anyone spot an obvious flaw? Are the alpha rotary pots or any other components I picked "good enough"? Did I leave anything out? Thanks for any insight or correction, this is the first big project I've sourced from scratch.

Sorry for the formatting, best I could do.

-Paul


Mouser #: 313-1230-1M
Mfr. #: RV120-20-15F-B1M
Desc.: Alpha 12mm Metal Shaft Potentiometers Linear D-Shaft 1M PC Mount
QTY: 4 $1.99 $7.96

Mouser #: 313-1230-100K
Mfr. #: RV120-20-15F-B100K
Desc.: Alpha 12mm Metal Shaft Potentiometers Linear D-Shaft 100K PC Mount
QTY: 4 $1.99 $7.96

Mouser #: 633-MRA112A
Mfr. #: MRA112-A-RO
Desc.: Rotary Switches SHAFT SP 2-12 POS
QTY: 5 $11.29 $56.45

Mouser #: 450-0155
Mfr. #: 450-0155
Desc.: Knobs SLIDER RECT PLASTIC
QTY: 18 $0.33 $5.94

Mouser #: 450-3051
Mfr. #: 450-3051
Desc.: Knobs SLIDE CONTROL BLACK
QTY: 18 $0.33 $5.94

Mouser #: 108-0041-EVX
Mfr. #: 108-0041-EVX
Desc.: Miniature Toggle Switches SPST OFF-ON
QTY: 25 $1.97 $49.25

Mouser #: 108-0044-EVX
Mfr. #: 108-0044-EVX
Desc.: Miniature Toggle Switches SPDT ON-OFF-ON
QTY: 20 $1.97 $39.40

Mouser #: 78-TLLR4401
Mfr. #: TLLR4401
Desc.: Standard LEDs LC Red Tint Diffused
QTY: 50 $0.15 $7.50

Mouser #: 108-0042-EVX
Mfr. #: 108-0042-EVX
Desc.: Miniature Toggle Switches SPDT ON-ON
QTY 3 $1.97 $5.91

Mouser #: 10PA322
Mfr. #: 10PA322
Desc.: Pushbutton Switches BLK BODY RND RED CAP
QTY 3 $2.91 $8.73

Mouser #: 312-9201F-50K
Mfr. #: RA4520F-10-20D1-B54
Desc.: Slide Potentiometers 45mm TRVL Linear 50K
QTY: 18 $1.08 $19.44
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Sound



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

About the Mountain switch I had tested 108-0001-EVX and they are good, but for the Klee I ordered the Mountain switches 1055-TA1120-EVX and the 1055-TA1135-EVX. And in my opinion they are not good. The bat is rude to move and dance to the sides.

This make me doubt about the quality of Mountain switches.

Because the switches are one of the most important part of the Klee I have ordered the NKK M20 series. 633-M201101-RO 633-M201301-RO 33-M201201-RO. They are more expensive but in my opinion they are much better.


Very Happy Welcome paul.


Òscar.
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Sound



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 2:09 pm    Post subject: Re: front panel parts - sanity check Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

plord wrote:
Are the alpha rotary pots or any other components I picked "good enough"?

They are good. I use them. They are recommended by www.magsmoke.com for their mankato filter.
But you are ordering it for PCB mount. For solder lug , the same potentiometer is 313-1210F- (value)

plord wrote:
Mouser #: 633-MRA112A
Mfr. #: MRA112-A-RO
Desc.: Rotary Switches SHAFT SP 2-12 POS
QTY: 5 $11.29 $56.45

Are you ordering 5 rotary switches?

plord wrote:

Mouser #: 78-TLLR4401
Mfr. #: TLLR4401
Desc.: Standard LEDs LC Red Tint Diffused
QTY: 50 $0.15 $7.50

I have read -I think- in this thread that the recommended LED are low current like this 638-HLMP4700. ( I just have ordered, still do not received)

Also you need anything to hold them at the front panel.
I have ordered a sample of one of each 351-1000 and 351-0002-RC before order all them... but maybe I'll hold the leds only with silicone... I don't know.

This is also my first big project. Very Happy

Edit: About leds: http://electro-music.com/forum/post-173828.html&highlight=led#173828

Last edited by Sound on Tue Apr 15, 2008 2:41 pm; edited 1 time in total
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plord



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sound wrote:
Because the switches are one of the most important part of the Klee I have ordered the NKK M20 series. 633-M201101-RO 633-M201301-RO 33-M201201-RO. They are more expensive but in my opinion they are much better.
Òscar,
Many thanks. I will check out the NKK switches.
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plord



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 2:41 pm    Post subject: Re: front panel parts - sanity check Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sound wrote:
They are good. I use them. They are recommended by www.magsmoke.com for their mankato filter. But you are ordering it for PCB mount. For solder lug , the same knob is 313-1210F- (value)
Ah, thanks. I thought I searched for panel mount and got those? No matter, I will fix.
sound wrote:
Are you ordering 5 rotary switches?
Ah, yes, I am! I have 4 Metalbox Sequential switches here, and I am going to add a rotary to set step length, and Scott was right, these look to be tiny and brilliant for that purpose.
sound wrote:
Edit: About leds: http://electro-music.com/forum/post-173828.html&highlight=led#173828
Hm, so both of those LEDs with panel mount holders will work, eh? I like the look of those; I'll have to check, I think the panel only has the tiny mounting holes. That's an easy panel mod though.

Thanks!
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Sound



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 2:48 pm    Post subject: Re: front panel parts - sanity check Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

plord wrote:

sound wrote:
Edit: About leds: http://electro-music.com/forum/post-173828.html&highlight=led#173828
Hm, so both of those LEDs with panel mount holders will work, eh?


I mean the post of State Machine:

State Machine wrote:
Here, shown below this message, are T-1 3/4 size LED's that are of the 2 MA low current type you need for hte Klee to work correctly. You can then use any LED holder that fits your fancy Wink I use the Cliplite LED holders. They work well. The attached data sheet will show you all the details. Just make sure you choose a holder that they recommend for the T-1 3/4 LED size. Also, be aware of the panel thickness when ordering LED holders so that they will "snap" of mount correctly. My panel thickness is 3 MM and they fit like a glove ! Digikey and Mouser both carry these "Cliplite" holders for these LED's.


GREEN:

Digikey PN 516-1327-ND
Mouser PN 638-HLMP-4740

RED:

Digikey PN 516-1325-ND
Mouser PN 638-HLMP-4700

YELLOW:

Digikey PN 516-1326-ND
Mouser PN 638-HLMP-4719



Hope this information will help you in your quest for LIGHT !!

Bill
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slo



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
Mouser #: 10PA322
Mfr. #: 10PA322
Desc.: Pushbutton Switches BLK BODY RND RED CAP
QTY 3 $2.91 $8.73


I used these and they broke like cheeze on mounting in panel, if you use them be very carefull when tightening.

George
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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yeah, if they're the type I think they are, they're all plastic, thread and nut. I'm so sick of plastic threaded sockets, I've vowed not to buy them again.
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plord



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Uncle Krunkus wrote:
Yeah, if they're the type I think they are, they're all plastic, thread and nut. I'm so sick of plastic threaded sockets, I've vowed not to buy them again.
Huh. Ok, anyone got a better suggestion for a mini momentary? One that will put up with Klee style abuse? Or hell, I have room for something a little larger, but not super big. What has worked well for folks?
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plord



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:23 pm    Post subject: Re: front panel parts - sanity check Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

sound wrote:
I mean the post of State Machine:
Oh, oops. Got it now. Those LED mounters look keen, thanks. Ordered up the slightly rounded bevel ones for 3mm LEDs, plus spacers as my panel will probably be 3mm as well. Thanks!
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Kartoshka



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 3:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i think i gonna plan my klee with this type momentary:
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
they have very nice look and feel of course,
and can be obtained with illumination as well.
they're costy but they well worth the elevator operator feeling! Cool Laughing

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Uncle Krunkus wrote:
Yeah, if they're the type I think they are, they're all plastic, thread and nut. I'm so sick of plastic threaded sockets, I've vowed not to buy them again.


Keep in mind though that my momentaries are all plastic! Embarassed Laughing
But I got the square push in mounting type, they seem a bit more solid.
Those cylindrical ones Kartoshka posted look beautiful. It all depends on what you can afford and can feel comfortable with.

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State Machine
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I apologize for repeating myself but it bears repeating Shocked
I am posting this because there are lots of new builds going on and want to lend my best advice Very Happy

Buy the BEST switches money can buy if you can afford it:

http://www.nkkswitches.com/

All the switches on this design will get lots of use, especially the pattern and bus switches ! I also guarantee that if you don't, you will regret it later on when they start to get intermittent.

Bill
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BananaPlug



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Yeah, get something that will last a while.
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loopcycle



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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i ended up with these momentaries:

mouser 612-RP3502MA-RED

(they come in green GRN and yellow YEL too.)
they have a pretty good feel. the button resistance is somewhat high and i would have preferred a larger surface area, but im pretty happy with them. they have metal threads/body, the button itself is plastic.

i did end up with all NKK toggles, and i think they were the most expensive part of the project (around $150 or so).
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Quote:
did end up with all NKK toggles, and i think they were the most expensive part of the project


Yes, a bit of cashola but you won't regret it loop !! Wink Good choice ... Scott sent me a really nice NKK selector switch during the build of the project last summer and boy is that thing nice. Great quality. NKK also sells those neat GRAPHIC switches that I have been wanting to play with.

Bill


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Scott Stites
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Very Happy The rotary was the only NKK switch I used. The rest were mountain switches. They're working just fine. If I woulda laid that kind of cabbage out for switches, I wouldn't be around to play the Klee once the wife found out.

Guess I had better luck with the production run of my switches - they feel just fine, and I don't have any doubt they'll keep working.

So far Laughing

Cheerio,
Scott

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Kartoshka



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 2:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Found the bezels cheaply online,
no need to buy them locally for twice-triple the price.

look on ebay for Item number: 290225273918
for about $11 for qty of 50, shipping included.


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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

loopcycle wrote:
i ended up with these momentaries:

mouser 612-RP3502MA-RED


Thanks for this. I ended up getting these and they are very satisfying (not as satisfying as the NKK rotary that Scott recommended, but holy cow, that thing is like the iPod of components). They look a trifle out of place on a panel filled with 6mm components, but ergonomically I think they will be fantastic.
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Paulyvoks



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PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi everyone.

I'm currently researching while awaiting my boards and kits.

Right now I'm a bit snagged as to what PSU would be easiest and more complete in a kit form.

I 've got no problems about building one If I must. Especially if it's cheaper.

I'm currently considering this PAIA kit:
http://www.paia.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9770R-15

Yays or nays? Any direction in the case of a nay would be appreciated!

Thanks!
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Uncle Krunkus
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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I can't remember the exact current draw at the moment, (I'm sure Scott will chime in with that momentarily) but I'm pretty sure the 9770R-15 would be fine. If 200mA is a bit on the edge, you could go for the 9770R-12, but you might need to bring down the reference to 9V instead of 10V as the LM series regulators like about 2.5V overhead IIRC.
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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I had made some current measurements during the prototypeing phase of hte project and had a discussion with Scott about the current draw. The rresult of which ended up in the build manual:

"The electro-music Klee Sequencer draws around 100 mA per voltage rail at +/-15Voperation, with a power dissipation of approximately 1.5 Watt per rail (3W total). A linear supply can be used, but it is possible to use it with an appropriate switching supply. In the case of a switching power supply, it is recommended that one use ferrite beads on the power supply lines connecting to the Klee Sequencer."

In reality, the +15V demands the most current at about 85 ma with all LED;s ON. The -15V requires much less than 100 ma. The split 15V supply should be OK for you to use.

If you do choose to use the 12V split supply, your 78L10 regulator will be OK without having to switch to 9V regulator since the dropout voltage for this device at room ambient temperature is 1.7V which would give you about a 300 mv dropout margin when using a 12V input.

Bill





Bill
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State Machine
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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Link on Ebay for 100K 0.1% resistors required for the CV summing amplifiers in the Klee. These are really stable and used them in my latest kits I sold for the Klee.

link shortened by Blue Hell

Bill
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