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Modular cabinet
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LektroiD



Joined: Aug 23, 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:45 am    Post subject: Modular cabinet
Subject description: Which wood etc..
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I'm planning on building a cabinet to fit 5U MOTM modules, 16U wide x 4 modules high. I'm wondering which is the best wood, where to buy in the UK, best ways of fixing modules in place, etc. Basically everything I need to know before starting the project (I'm no carpenter either)... Also, I'd like to hear your opinions on Varnish / Stain / French polish etc.
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RF



Joined: Mar 23, 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

After pricing Walnut, I used Oak on my Klee case - it was about a third the price of Walnut. I have used Mahogany on a couple cases recently - it's easy to work with, but it's a little too soft - it gets 'dinged' pretty easy.

For mounting modules I'm pretty ghetto. The first couple racks I used strips of Oak and screwed the modules into that. For the next two I used aluminum 'angle' stock and used self tapping screws. That's what I did with the Klee.

Here's the Oak case....I stained it using Minwax "Dark Walnut" stain, and followed that with a couple coats of Parks polyurethane gloss.

Good Luck

bruce


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bf



Joined: Feb 28, 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I also used oak, and standard rack rails mounted horizontally to mount the modules (although that was a bit finicky due to the rails I used).
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I just used tung oil as a finish with no stain.
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peng



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

bf wrote:
I also used oak, and standard rack rails mounted horizontally to mount the modules (although that was a bit finicky due to the rails I used).
Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.
I just used tung oil as a finish with no stain.


That's a beauty! Great job.

p.
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Skrog Productions



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Don't laugh Very Happy , I rake about in skips on whatever building site i'm working at and usually get some nice Latvian pine ply wood , knock something together in the shed then apply B&Q own brand varnish lightly rubbing with some P1000 sandpaper or light steel wool between the first few coats to build a sheen


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richardc64



Joined: Jun 01, 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

RF wrote:
For the next two I used aluminum 'angle' stock and used self tapping screws.


Did you pre-drill a bunch of evenly spaced pilot holes or did you drill as holes were needed? If the latter, how did you prevent any shards of aluminum from an upper level from landing on boards on a lower level?

I favor wood strips, but knowing how well the Lunetta case worked out, maybe I'll try aluminum angles on my next case, whenever that might be.

Thanks.

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RF



Joined: Mar 23, 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

richardc64 wrote:

Did you pre-drill a bunch of evenly spaced pilot holes or did you drill as holes were needed? If the latter, how did you prevent any shards of aluminum from an upper level from landing on boards on a lower level?

Thanks.

Although evenly spaced holes would be wonderful....my homebrew panels have not been that precise Smile I drill them as I go. I use a vacuum after drilling - and to this point shards in the electronics has not been an issue.
The wood will be easier to adjust if I move panels around - fill the previous holes with wood bits and glue, and drill another hole...

bruce

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