Help with stripboard layout...

wizardsofzen · Joined: Jan 08, 2011 Posts: 14 Location: Zion

ah ha! there in lies the problem, i reside in the land of zen.

thanks for the new info, i've just wanted to board this for about 6 months now.

now i have an issue of where to find TL072P IC's or an equivalent replacement...

i do see some things that look close on mouser, but unsure, anyone have the culprit?

i do enjoy a good foray out of the land of zen once in a while, just not outside of eyesight of the doorway back in....

currently, this is my best guess - http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TL072ACPvirtualkey59500000virtualkey595-TL072ACP

Ben.H · Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 6:09 am Post subject:

Hi guys, I know this is an old thread but for future reference it should be noted I found the error that was causing the oscillator to not resonate correctly. The junction of R12, T2, R11 & C4 was being grounded, the track needs to be cut between C4 & R26 on the 13th line.

Hope this helps someone, took me freakin ages to find!
I've built the same circuit using the original eric archer layout and found they were sounding quite different previously
Stripboard is now working correctly!

-minus- · Joined: Oct 26, 2008 Posts: 787 Audio files: 13

Welcome and well done Ben.H! I'll have to look at this stripboard again. I managed to get reasonable sound out of it by triggering it from some other spot but it's still not quite right. I forget what I did... I probably posted about it Confused

.

I knew someone would solve this riddle before I died!

-minus- · Joined: Oct 26, 2008 Posts: 787 Audio files: 13

I'm making the other voices now on stripboard. Just linking...

http://electro-music.com/forum/post-368380.html#368380

gerbster · Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:34 am Post subject: A little help..

Hey All,

The last couple of weeks I've tried to get this strip board up and running but I'm afraid I'm stuck.. I was wondering if somebody who has finished this board successfully can give me some voltage values at some points on the board so I can track down the problem.

First, my setup:

- I've build a +/- 12V power supply and connected it to the stripboard with an extra +12V going into the accent
- the trigger is connected to a Highly Liquid MD24 board output (which gives +5V pulses, i've checked that)
- I've plugged in the output into my mixer

I've measured the voltages on the TL072, and they read + and -12 on pin 4 & 8, so that is getting power. However, I don't see anything coming out of T3. There is +12V on the collector but the base isn't getting anything from the trigger (I think.. Smile

)

Anyway, I was wondering, in this thread I've read something about supplying voltages to some points to manually trigger this circuit, but what points should that be?

Thanks in advance!

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RotomotioN · Joined: Mar 02, 2013 Posts: 9 Location: Netherlands

Hey Gerbster
You need a momentary switch between +V and the normal trigger input point

elmegil · Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 7:36 pm Post subject:

I don't know that I'd agree on a momentary...

There has to be positive voltage on both of the inputs for there to be a trigger. How much positive voltage can have a significant impact on how loud / hard a hit you get out of it.

Some people hook the accent (the "northern" input) to +V all the time. Others hook the two inputs together. In the original there wasn't any trigger conditioning (the diode and cap arrangement on the input) and you had the "common clock" (a combination of the clock and variable accent on steps when it was active, ranging from 4 to 14V) gated by the instrument step (5V).

I've found though, attempting to do it "the right way", something must be different about the modern components, because even with no instrument gate, I will get a trigger from a sufficiently high accent + clock. What I've done is tie those two together, and I'm generating the 1ms pulse from an Arduino so I don't have to worry about conditioning the input. If I were to make this a module, I'd use the conditioner though (I've got it on the stripboard, I just bypass it with the gate input).

elmegil · Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 7:39 pm Post subject:

BTW there's a lot more discussion of the 808 stripboard Bass Drum over on this thread, after the first page or two of talking about the high hats and cymbals.

http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-54826.html&postorder=asc

gerbster · Posted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 6:44 am Post subject: I'm an idiot

Well, it turned out i'm an idiot. After building a complete new 808 BD pcb from scratch that DID work i found that... I connected the output wire to the wrong pin of my output socket.

so now i have 2 fully working 808 BD's Wink

But thanks for your replies.

Snaper · Joined: Feb 28, 2014 Posts: 217 Location: Hungary

Oouch, got every parts "in stock", except the two 0.47u caps.
Can I use 1u?

elmegil · Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 6:45 am Post subject:

They make up filters on the output section so doubling the size of the two caps will change the sound.

However, two 1uF caps in series will make .5uF capacitance which would be quite close.

Not sure how you'd fit that onto the stripboard, but there's probably a way.

Snaper · Joined: Feb 28, 2014 Posts: 217 Location: Hungary

Snaper · Joined: Feb 28, 2014 Posts: 217 Location: Hungary

Snaper · Joined: Feb 28, 2014 Posts: 217 Location: Hungary

So, I've finished mine...but...
Well it's always "sounds"...
I mean ican trigger, and hear the click etc, but it seems that there is no decay:S

Snaper · Joined: Feb 28, 2014 Posts: 217 Location: Hungary

Ignore my last post!
Decay and pitch mod pots was not working Smile

Replaced them and now : BoOooOoOm

Note for future builders : pot lugs are numbered from back of the pot in the original stripboard layout, but the pitch mod pot numbered from the front!

Ive used 1M for decay, no pitch problem even if its fully open, and 100k for the pitch mod.
Finished board working in my eurorack fine!
Used the accent pot drawing, with a 100k pot.
Module triggered now from a square wave lfo:)

Thanks for the layout!
Now have to mobe to the snare Smile

Karlisss · Joined: Apr 20, 2015 Posts: 25 Location: Latvia (EU)

so, in the first stripboard image in post, now is correct version?

Alfredo · Joined: Nov 20, 2008 Posts: 52 Location: Spain

Please mates, anyone 808´s stripboard/veroboard ??
Thanks.

lysergist · Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 6:42 pm Post subject:

I tried some mods out of this topic but i best i've found for the pitch is that one, coming from the e-licktronic forum in this thread : http://www.e-licktronic.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=143

BassDrum Tuning -- replaced R165 (47k) with SPDT switch that selects between original value (47k) and a 100k potentiometer (audio/log preferably)

and

BassDrum Tuning Envelope -- replaced R166 (6.8k) with SPDT switch that selects between original value (6.8k) and a 5k potentiometer in series with a 2k resistor. (in combination with the tuning mod, this mod enables some nice extra-punchy bass drums!)

In this layout those resistors are R13 and R14.

Late_to_the_party · Joined: Sep 24, 2017 Posts: 21 Location: London

Hello all.

My first post too.
I just wanted to say, what a brilliant thread. Well done for all the hard work put in by everyone. Thank you LektroiD. Thank you to -minus- for the layouts. elmegil thanks for the helpful tips and comments too.
You have given me the confidence to try my first project ever. I'm have begun with the Kick module only, and move on to the other modules later. I have attempted the Kick module on perfboard as per Eric Archer's layout.
http://www.ericarcher.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/tr-808-bass-drum-diy-project.pdf
I make music by sequencing in Logic and at the moment I am content with making a few boxes, that spit out a drum noise at the push of a button, then I can sample them and work into a track.
Therefore I have added a momentary push switch to ‘trigger’.
I have read through this post and the specific kick drum thread. But I have completed my wiring and have no sound. I’ve double checked all components and wiring and all seems correct.
Now for my (probably very stupid) questions:
1. Is the problem my momentary push switch not creating the correct kind of trigger?
2. Should I be connecting ‘out’ and ‘gnd’ to the output jack? Does polarity matter?
3. Sadly out of stupidity I wired this circuit up with AC 14V. I now have wired it up with 12V DC. But I’m so confused. A friend who knows more than me said, a simple 12V DC won’t work it has to be Dual +/- DC. I now am so confused as to power supply. Please advise.
Thanks for any help in advance.

JM

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lysergist · Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 12:24 pm Post subject:

You definitly need a transformer + dual power supply, you can't achieve that with the one you have. You need a transformer that outputs 2*15v AC or 12v. Then a simple power supply converts it to symetric +15V/-15V DC
Google "dual power supply" you'll find a lot of schems.
To test the triggering tie the accent to +V, then you could trig with any kind of voltage from around 3V to 15V.

Late_to_the_party · Joined: Sep 24, 2017 Posts: 21 Location: London

Thank you lysergist. Thanks for the speedy reply, I had been scratching my head on this for ages. I have a undergraduates physics degree but had never heard of a dual power supply.

So the best option is to DIY the power supply too?

PHOBoS · Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2017 2:32 am Post subject:

An easy way to make a dual supply would be to use an AC wallwart (not DC) of 15...18V. Some excellent information on
how to use it to create a dual supply can be found on the MFOS site here. (use LM7815/LM7915 instead of LM7812/LM7912).
I am assuming that 2x 9V is too low for this circuit or you could use 2 batteries. hmm, 2 12V DC wallwarts could work too actually.

Late_to_the_party · Joined: Sep 24, 2017 Posts: 21 Location: London

Excellent thanks for the advice. I have found similar info on DIY powers supply here.

http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/?page_id=894

I guess these are pretty much the same?

Late_to_the_party · Joined: Sep 24, 2017 Posts: 21 Location: London

Got my DIY power supply last night... made it, hooked it up to my 808 BD, all excited, and...

NOTHING

I had to change all the transistors as I possibly damaged them when I hooked it up to an AC supply like an idiot, before it was pointed out to me what a bipolar supply was.

BOOOOOOOOOM! it worked.

However, I noticed in my replacing the transistors a ground jumper had come loose. When I Resoldered it... Nothing again.

Disconnect it and it works again. The Ground is connecting C1, R20, R25 in the schematic below. Are they necessary? It works without them.

I will say it does seem a little noisy... Is it affecting the gain some how? So I have a high signal to noise ratio?

On a different note; is there a good mod to get more drive/distorsion?

Something like a pot between +15 and the op amp?

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PHOBoS · Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 6:30 am Post subject: