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 Forum index » DIY Hardware and Software » Jürgen Haible designs
Subtle Chorus BBD
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etaoin



Joined: Jun 30, 2005
Posts: 761
Location: Utrecht, NL

PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:49 am    Post subject: Subtle Chorus BBD Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I'm slightly puzzled here. Finished this today but can't get my MN3007's to work in it. These are known good BBD's (they work fine in a Tonepad chorus). I have clock from the MN3101 (71.7 kHz) and the correct smaller voltage on pin 4. Still I only get clock bleed through on pin 7and nothing on pin 8. (and yes, input does get up to pin 3).

I've had BBD's not shifting signals before, but I can't remember what it was then....


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Chorus BBD Board
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etaoin



Joined: Jun 30, 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Okay, never mind, the same ICs work perfectly fine in the right channel, so I probably just made a mistake somewhere in the left...

[edit] incredible noob-error by the way; I reversed C16... It works fine now.

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whomper



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi,

I am testing my BBD boards and have some difficulties:

1. The LFO rate is fast. Even when lowering the rate via the pot, it does not go slow enough. Only when coupling the pot with CV can I get a low enough rate.
2. The DEPTH POT only works between step 2-3, the rest it does nothing. Can I have a faulty 13600?

What does 100K trimpot? I though it could change the LFO rate initial setting, but turning it does nothing.

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jhaible



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

whomper wrote:
Hi,

I am testing my BBD boards and have some difficulties:

1. The LFO rate is fast. Even when lowering the rate via the pot, it does not go slow enough. Only when coupling the pot with CV can I get a low enough rate.
2. The DEPTH POT only works between step 2-3, the rest it does nothing. Can I have a faulty 13600?


Wrong resistor value somewhere?

Quote:
What does 100K trimpot? I though it could change the LFO rate initial setting, but turning it does nothing.


That's merely an offset pot - its effect is rather ... subtle. (pun intended)

JH.

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whomper



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 2:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I went through the resistors values (of the Option A and B in schematics 2, the LFO and summing) and they seem ok. I have also noted that my interpolating scanner has a similar problem of depth and rate (I noted a similar circuit).

I have used 100k lin pots.

I must have done in those three cases (I have 2 BBD and 1 scanner) something wrong to get a similar result out of the CV LFO.

Any inputs as to trace the LFO signal across the components? What should be the ballpark voltages at important sections with a mid point setting of rate and depth?

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jhaible



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

whomper wrote:
I went through the resistors values (of the Option A and B in schematics 2, the LFO and summing) and they seem ok. I have also noted that my interpolating scanner has a similar problem of depth and rate (I noted a similar circuit).

I have used 100k lin pots.

I must have done in those three cases (I have 2 BBD and 1 scanner) something wrong to get a similar result out of the CV LFO.

Any inputs as to trace the LFO signal across the components? What should be the ballpark voltages at important sections with a mid point setting of rate and depth?


I get ca. 2Hz in mid position of Rate.
This will vary a lot from board to board because of unmatched transistors in the expo converter. But the range of that pot is so huge that the actuall mid position rate shouldn't matter much.
To decrease overall Rate, increase C82.
This is specified as 220nF (Do you actually have 220nF in here?).
Increasing that value by factor x will drop the Rate by the x.

JH.

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whomper



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jhaible wrote:

To decrease overall Rate, increase C82.
This is specified as 220nF (Do you actually have 220nF in here?).
Increasing that value by factor x will drop the Rate by the x.
JH.


Thanks for the tip, I have increased to 1uF and it eased the rate a little. I might go higher.
I have also noted that I have used BC557C for the matched pair as a substitute for the BC560C. Might this be the cause of the problem?

As for the depth, any insights as to how I can extend the depth range as currently it is only good for between pos 1-2 of the pot, 0-1 and 2-10 are producing no effect at all.

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jhaible



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

whomper wrote:

I have also noted that I have used BC557C for the matched pair as a substitute for the BC560C. Might this be the cause of the problem?
Unlikely.

Quote:
As for the depth, any insights as to how I can extend the depth range as currently it is only good for between pos 1-2 of the pot, 0-1 and 2-10 are producing no effect at all.
Increase R113. Try 270k.

JH.

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jayjayevans



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 2:26 pm    Post subject: beginner help Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello,

I am a total beginner at this and i am troubleshooting my boards-- Dimension D version.

The bypass signal is fine but the wet signal has a pretty loud hum, a bit like a loud ground loop. I decided to check the power supply to the BBD. I am using the 15vac wall wart PSU. at the pins of the connection to the BBD i get 9.6v and -9v, not +-15v. is it not supposed to be +-15v to the BBD board? could i have blown the regulators? how can i check them? any help appreciated.

thanks in advance,

jay
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jhaible



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 2:32 pm    Post subject: Re: beginner help Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jayjayevans wrote:
Hello,

I am a total beginner at this and i am troubleshooting my boards-- Dimension D version.

The bypass signal is fine but the wet signal has a pretty loud hum, a bit like a loud ground loop. I decided to check the power supply to the BBD. I am using the 15vac wall wart PSU. at the pins of the connection to the BBD i get 9.6v and -9v, not +-15v. is it not supposed to be +-15v to the BBD board? could i have blown the regulators? how can i check them? any help appreciated.

thanks in advance,

jay


You probably need a bigger wallwart.
15V AC @ 800mA works for my prototype.

JH.

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"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
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jayjayevans



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi JH thanks for replying,

mine is 1000ma. do you have any other suggestions?

jay
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jhaible



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jayjayevans wrote:
Hi JH thanks for replying,

mine is 1000ma. do you have any other suggestions?

jay


That should be big enough!
But your symptoms all direct at anot enough power - either a voltage too low, or a voltage breaking down due to too much current.

Of course it could be *anything*, drawing too much current, on the boards. Sad

JH.

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jayjayevans



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ok i will start to take it apart.
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jayjayevans



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:51 am    Post subject: stupid me Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

oh my god i found out that i had a LM317m instead of a LM317. the label was covered by the heatsinks so i didnt check it. i cut 3 traces already trying to isolate the problem. Rolling Eyes

i will replace it and let you know. thanks again for your help
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jhaible



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 3:04 pm    Post subject: Re: stupid me Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jayjayevans wrote:
oh my god i found out that i had a LM317m instead of a LM317. the label was covered by the heatsinks so i didnt check it. i cut 3 traces already trying to isolate the problem. Rolling Eyes

i will replace it and let you know. thanks again for your help


Isn't the 317M an SMT part?!

JH.

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"I tell you the truth, if anyone says to this mountain, 'Go, throw yourself into the sea,' and does not doubt in his heart but believes that what he says will happen, it will be done for him. Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours." (Mk 11,23f)
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jayjayevans



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

hello i am back! Wink

well i cut enough traces and lifted some resistors so that the power section is completely isolated. no power is going to the rest of the board, anywhere. still i have only +-10v. so what are my possibilites?

1. the PSU is fucked. it doesn't put out the current that is written on it. here it is, in case i am doing something stupid:

http://www.velleman.be/be/en/product/view/?id=365838

but what are the chances of a wall wart not working as it is written on it?

2. the diode rectifier is somehow not working right. i checked continuity and it seems to be OK at each point.

3. something else? i have replaced both regulators, so thats not it. i have moved the 470u caps around with a known good one, i dont think thats it. i checked resistor values both with a multimeter and by color code, so i guess the are probably right.

4. its supposed to be that way. Shocked

aaah its driving me crazy.

please help!

thanks

jay
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jhaible



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jayjayevans wrote:
hello i am back! Wink

well i cut enough traces and lifted some resistors so that the power section is completely isolated. no power is going to the rest of the board, anywhere. still i have only +-10v. so what are my possibilites?

1. the PSU is fucked. it doesn't put out the current that is written on it. here it is, in case i am doing something stupid:

http://www.velleman.be/be/en/product/view/?id=365838

but what are the chances of a wall wart not working as it is written on it?

2. the diode rectifier is somehow not working right. i checked continuity and it seems to be OK at each point.

3. something else? i have replaced both regulators, so thats not it. i have moved the 470u caps around with a known good one, i dont think thats it. i checked resistor values both with a multimeter and by color code, so i guess the are probably right.

4. its supposed to be that way. Shocked

aaah its driving me crazy.

please help!

thanks

jay


The wallwart looks good.

First step: look at the 470uF caps with a scope, and see if you have a DC voltage with saw-shaped ripple there.

JH.

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jayjayevans



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

ok i will have a shot at it. will a soundcard oscilloscope work? i don't have a real one.

EDIT: i googled it and i guess not.
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jhaible



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jayjayevans wrote:
ok i will have a shot at it. will a soundcard oscilloscope work? i don't have a real one.

EDIT: i googled it and i guess not.


Do you have a friend with a scope?

JH.

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jayjayevans



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

no i dont know anyone w/ a scope. Crying or Very sad
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jhaible



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

jayjayevans wrote:
no i dont know anyone w/ a scope. Crying or Very sad


Then it's really hard.
I don't have experience with soundcard scopes, but I reckon they only have AC coupling. Well, in that case, you still could mesure the DC with a multimeter, and the AC ripple with that soundcard scope. But then again, the 20-something volts DC might be too much for your soundcard ...
I don't really recommend this.

JH.

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jayjayevans



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i did some more research and figured out what the problem was. it was really ignorant on my part: i wired the AC leads wrong. i thought ac leads should have been on the far right and left (i told you i was a total beginner). Embarassed well at least i know now how a power supply works. anyway i might have more questions...please be patient with me.

thanks again for your help.

jay
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