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LM386 chip get hot on audio amp circuit
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acidblue



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:19 pm    Post subject: LM386 chip get hot on audio amp circuit Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I just Breadboarded a LM386 audio amp circuit using the schematic below.
It works ok, but the LM386 chip get very hot, so hot i can't touch it.
I'm only using a 9v battery, so I'm not sure why it's getting so hot.

I'm using it to power a 6 ohm 2.5w speaker.
My input is a 4093 nand gate and also a 40106, schematics here:
http://vidiotsquad.com/?page_id=10


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Stream Operator


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I don't know but I think that the minimum circuit configuration for an LM386 has an RC shunt from the output node for some reason. Perhaps you need to add that. Also the Power Output specification for the chip is 125 mW, not 2.5W! Zounds! You might be toasting that little puppy. Datasheet attached for convenience.

Les


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acidblue



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Actually its 250mw, but damn! your right, I didn't even consider that.
I had no idea using 2.5w speaker would make the chip run hot.
So I'm off to find a another speaker, I Think Sparkfun has some.

BTW, what would be a good chip to use for 2.5w speakers?
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I don't know, I would cruise the www.national.com site for audio amplifiers. I do not know much about them, but surely you will need a heatsink of some sort due to the maximum power condition which states that at best the source must dissipate as much as the load. Maybe someone with more experience will chime in soon.

Les

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Thomas_Henry



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hello,

acidblue wrote:

I had no idea using 2.5w speaker would make the chip run hot.


It doesn't. The power rating of your loudspeaker has nothing to do with this. The rating you mention (whether 2.5 watts or 250 milliwatts) simply indicates what the loudspeaker can handle before it breaks down. You could hook a 100 watt speaker up to it if you want (but it probably wouldn't work efficiently) and everything would run cool.

But back to your problem. It's been ages since I've done anything with the LM380/384/386 type chips, but I do remember always providing extra copper clad foil on the PCB to help dissipate heat. Try heat sinking the thing. Another possibility is supersonic parasitic oscillations. Check the various connections on your scope and see if you notice anything untoward.

Anyway, the wattage capability of your loudspeaker isn't an issue despite the previous comments. (Impedance is more important here, but I think you said you're using a 6 ohm one, which is pretty much in the ball park of what the chip can handle.)

Thomas Henry
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I stand corrected. Thomas_Henry seems to know what he is talking about. I'd check those higher frequency oscillations, and look into the RC shunt in the datasheet, maybe that's what it's for?

Les

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RF



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Hi acidblue -
I've used this circuit many times - it's right out of the applications handbook....
Never gets hot, always works well...

bruce


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acidblue



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Thanks Tom for clearing things up, yippie! I don't have to buy more speakers.
BTW I don't have a scope, it'a on my xmas list.

MMM. RF my schematic dosn't have the cap and resistor going to ground on pin 5.
I wonder if that's the reason im getting hot chips.
I'll adjust my breadboard circuit and give it a go.

I'll get back with the results.

Last edited by acidblue on Sun Sep 06, 2009 1:00 pm; edited 1 time in total
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acidblue



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Ok I'm still getting a hot LM386 chip.
I've included pics of my breadboard circuit.

I didn't have a 10 ohm R nor a 0.05uF cap, so I used 330 R and a 0.1uF cap.
I don't think that will make too much a difference.

The larger chip is the 4093.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Cool man, detailed photos and stuff. I would imagine that your component values are not appropriate for the application. If it were me, I'd get the right parts, even if I had to go to Radio Shack for some quickie parts. Also you probably don't want little parts for this, especially the resistor. I'd get a 1/2 watt or bigger resistor if they have it. That's because your speaker is 6 ohms and you're using a 10 Ohm resistor sort of in parallel, so you don't want to toast a 1/4 Watt resistor.

Those are just my inexperienced thoughts, I'll let wiser folks more in the know critique them for you. Best of luck with it.

Les

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DGTom



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

I might be wrong.. but to me it looks as tho the resistor on the right with the little cap won't actually be doing anything will it?
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State Machine
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

No doubt, the thing is oscillating way beyond audible levels as Thomas mentioned a few posts back. I would hang a 0.1 uF capacitor, AS CLOSE TO THE CHIP AS YOU CAN GET, from Vcc to ground. That will clean things up and it will most likely run cool as a cucumber. lol ........ would not hurt to also put a 10 uF bypass capacitor near the 0.1 uF also. Wink

Bill
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Duh, I didn't even think of that Bill, nice work. I suspect that the 10uF cap is going to be the thing that's really needed in this application and the 0.1uF only makes it better, but what do I know? Probably too much for my own good, lol.

Les

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acidblue



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

State Machine wrote:
No doubt, the thing is oscillating way beyond audible levels as Thomas mentioned a few posts back. I would hang a 0.1 uF capacitor, AS CLOSE TO THE CHIP AS YOU CAN GET, from Vcc to ground. That will clean things up and it will most likely run cool as a cucumber. lol ........ would not hurt to also put a 10 uF bypass capacitor near the 0.1 uF also. Wink

Bill


Could you describe "hang"
Or better yet how about a schematic.
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magman



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

As DGTom stated (and looking at the large Cap as well), these components are actually being shorted out by the connections on the breadboard (the 5 connections in a row are shorted together - that's how these breadboards work).

You will need to make these connections in adjacent rows to give them separate connections.

For example, move the negative (short) leg of the electrolytic cap from from I49, to I50, also move the output connection from J49 to J50. Then move the long leg of the resistor from H52 to H51 and the capacitor from I52 to I51.

Try this first then lets see how the circuit behaves, but the decoupling cap already mentioned would then be a good addition.

I suspect the reason the chip is getting hot is that you have effectively put a low resistance to ground on the output (the speaker), because the output capacitor is being shorted. Here's hoping this hasn't cooked the chip.

Regards

Magman
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

magman wrote:
As DGTom stated (and looking at the large Cap as well), these components are actually being shorted out by the connections on the breadboard (the 5 connections in a row are shorted together - that's how these breadboards work).

You will need to make these connections in adjacent rows to give them separate connections.

For example, move the negative (short) leg of the electrolytic cap from from I49, to I50, also move the output connection from J49 to J50. Then move the long leg of the resistor from H52 to H51 and the capacitor from I52 to I51.

Try this first then lets see how the circuit behaves, but the decoupling cap already mentioned would then be a good addition.

I suspect the reason the chip is getting hot is that you have effectively put a low resistance to ground on the output (the speaker), because the output capacitor is being shorted. Here's hoping this hasn't cooked the chip.

Regards

Magman


I think magman and DGtom are right ... the negative pin of the 220uf electrolytic cap should be connected as advised here

Wink
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Oh so if I get this right, you folks took a close look at the photos and figured out that there was a wiring error? I think I see it too, on pin 5 of the LM386, right? How cool is that? DIY help debugging by photograph now, nice! This could be a new angle on helping each other here on the forum. Your circuit don't work? Take a photo of it. Neat.

Les

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State Machine
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Magman,

Great eyes there man !! Just to explain a bit further, even with no signal input, this amplifier centers it's output at 1/2 of Vcc. This means that if you have a 9V supply, the output will be sitting at 4.5V. The decoupling capacitor that is now shorted allows this to be applied to 8 ohms to ground. The amp is trying to deliver 2.5W to the speaker .. ouch . but it can't and thus gets HOT Rolling Eyes

It's a good chance that the LM386 is destroyed so if you rearrange things and it still does not work, it's may just be a bad amplifier chip.

Les wrote:
Quote:
Duh, I didn't even think of that Bill, nice work. I suspect that the 10uF cap is going to be the thing that's really needed in this application and the 0.1uF only makes it better, but what do I know? Probably too much for my own good, lol.


The 10uF capacitor is good at filtering things like low frequency ripple on the supply line but it's really not good at higher frequencies and acts like an inductor. This is why the 0.1 uF capacitor is there, to filter the high frequency stuff. The 0.1 uF is good at shunting any RF to ground around the chip. This is why you see them in pairs sometimes.

acid wrote:
Quote:

Could you describe "hang"


My bad. That's a slang term to connecting an additional component to an existing circuit. Hang thus is synonymous with connect. I meant to say, connect a 0.1 uF between pins 6 and pin 4. No observation of polarity is necessary. Additionally, the 10 uF [+] lead would connect to pin 6 and it's [-] lead to pin 4.

Bill
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fluxmonkey



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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

i've got a step-by-step tutorial for building the "little gem" lm386 amp here: http://www.fluxmonkey.com/electronoize/386amplifier.htm... starts out with an explanation of how breadboards works (as alluded to above), and winds up with something like this:

Posted Image, might have been reduced in size. Click Image to view fullscreen.

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State Machine
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Good reference bbob Very Happy This configuration will allow one to dial in up to 46 dB of gain so the it will be easy clip the amplifier if one inputs too much signal level.

Ref Data Sheet:

http://www.nari.ee.ethz.ch/wireless/education/PPS/PPS02/doc/LM386.pdf

Bill
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acidblue



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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Success!
No more hot chip
Alas, I had to replace the LM386 with a new one, since the old one
was burnt out.
I did what was suggested and moved the large cap and output down a peg.
I also "hanged" a cap between pins 4 and 6. Don't know if I hanged it right
but it seems to be ok

Thanks for all your help guys, I'll have to give that 'Little Gem' circuit
bbob mentioned a try.
I figured taking a pic of a circuit that doesn't work would be better than trying to explain
everything.
Every one should do this, it's much easier to troubleshoot.
Perhaps taking a pic could be mentioned in the FAQ, we have a FAQ right?
Or maybe a mod could make a sticky post or something.


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State Machine
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

Great news AND great collaboration by all I must say !! It's good to see the teamwork involved in helping others ...

Now it's time to amplify something Wink Wink

Bill

PS: Perfect capacitor hanging to ... Cool
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acidblue



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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote  Mark this post and the followings unread

State Machine wrote:
Great news AND great collaboration by all I must say !! It's good to see the teamwork involved in helping others ...

Now it's time to amplify something Wink Wink

Bill

PS: Perfect capacitor hanging to ... Cool


Yes, big thanks to every one.
Gonna amplify a 4093, got 2 gates connected already, gonna do 4 in a bit.
Didn't know i could hang so well.
Guess you could say my cap is well hung Wink
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